Your scribe is a long time follower and admirer of the work of both Robert Mondavi and Baron Philippe De Rothschild. There were so many aficionados of their wines (Mondavi Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon & Chateau Mouton Rothschild) that the launch of their joint project of Opus One in Oakville California with the inaugural 1979 vintage was met with highly enthusiastic anticipation. In the early years the wine was produced at the Mondavi winery and was very California. Initially it was somewhat difficult to reach the unique perfect Opus One style with Bordeaux experts first Lucien Sionneau and in the late eighties Patrick Leon seeking more elegance & finesse while the Mondavi family (Robert, MIchael & Tim with Genevieve Janssens) focusing on the rich bold riper Napa fruit. From about 1986 on some Bordeaux vinification methods were being deployed and by the early nineties harmony developed between the Bordeaux & Napa contributions. 1990 was the last vintage made at the Mondavi facility and 1991 the first one in that spectacular new Opus One winery (plagued by water issues built over a geothermal spring with cost overruns). Another issue was the vines as Mondavi sold a key 35 acre Q block parcel of To-Kalon to the venture plus in 1983-84 they acquired two more vineyards across Highway 29 from Mondavi totalling 138 acres of which 108+ were planted. However in 1990 phylloxera was discovered in Q Block that resulted in a replanting on St. George rootstock (instead of AXR1). The positive result was that denser replanting was key going from rows 12 feet apart with vines every 8 feet to 4 by 4 closer together competing. This also helped vine management (looking for sunlight rather than heat to ripen the grapes), canopy, and pruning of the fruit with closer vines providing some shade themselves against the hot midday sun. The resulting wines have improved each decade after trying times early on and are looking at their 43rd vintage in 2022. Presently winemaker Michael Silacci picks early to maintain freshness maintaining vineyard wild yeasts, using 100% new French oak from 10 coopers aiming for accessibility of the wine on release though best drinking for him around 15 years of age but capable of going 40 years. We thought it would be fun and educational to look back at some of these earlier vintages so the Vancouver Group of 8 scheduled a dinner at Blue Water on May 24, 2022.

A few brief impressions: The bookends both were formidable from Dom Ruinart first 2004 Blanc de Blancs 100% Grand Crus low dosage delicately structured with creamy silky textures; finishing up with Dom Ruinart 2007 Rose using B/B with 18% added pinot noir from Ay. Wines were 8 vintages of Opus One ranging from 1982 to 2014 plus a ringer of 2012 Mondavi Reserve. Congrats go to Opus One for their impressive website with details on all the vintages listed there which is outstanding and most helpful for consumers. Highly recommend this procedure to all wineries around the world as providing a most valuable history story. Check it out.

1. 1982 OPUS ONE: 82/16/2 Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot only 9 days skin contact & long 23 months in new French oak. 1979 was 2000 cases, 1980 4000, and 1980 & 1981 6000. Surprisingly good showing with easy elegant flavours though drying a bit on the finish.
2. 1996 OPUS ONE: 86/8/3 + 3 Malbec with increased skin contact to 37 days and reduced time in new French oak to 19 months at 13.9 abv. More bright fruit with some softer middle seduction but rather lean dry ending.
3. 1997 OPUS ONE: 82/8/5 + 4 Malbec & 1 Petit Verdot with 32 skin days and 18 months new French oak at 13.9. First vintage using 90% Estate fruit. Showing the best fruit so far with some depth and texture complexity. Rather good.
4. 2005 OPUS ONE: 14 abv HIgher CS 88% with 5M, 3PV, 3CF, 1 Malbec after very wet May & prolonged harvest starting in September and finishing up in early November with very low yields using 29 days of skin contact and 18 months in oak. Darkest colour by far of the first 4 shown in the photo attached and is just a juicy “baby” compared to the first 3 older ones. Killer match with a superb rabbit ravioli dish!
5. 2006 OPUS ONE: 14.4 abv Cooler year 77CS 12M 5CF 3PV & 3 Malbec with 26d skin & 17 months showed sweeter “caramel” notes and your scribe much preferred the 2005.
6. 2007 OPUS ONE: 14.7 abv 79CS 8M 6CF 6PV 1 Malbec 20d 19m seems ripe and generous but rather flat needing more Bordeaux-styled lift.
7. 2009 OPUS ONE: 14.5 81CS 9CF 6PV 3M & 1 Malbec 20d 17m another cooler year with a softer entry which accentuates the floral mineral elements of this property.
8. 2012 MONDAVI RESERVE: 15 abv 90CS 7CF 3PV shows better structure, lift and balance compared to Opus One but not the classy depth of the memorable 1974.
9. 2014 OPUS ONE: 14.5 80CS 7PV 6CF 5M 2 Malbec 20d & 18m from a higher yielding crop displays young most spicy fragrant aromas quite stylish with better structure and fine tannins for aging.

Question: What is the main white grape grown in Switzerland?

Answer: It is the early ripening native grape CHASSELAS prominent in the Vaud region. Goes by FENDANT in the driest region of Valais with those warming foehn (fohn) winds. Other names for it include DORIN, GUTEDEL, and PERLAN. Nearly all Swiss wine is consumed within Switzerland with very little exported (mainly Germany).

The Vancouver International Wine Festival (VIWF) was flying high last week with insightful wine & food events celebrating their 43rd year after a pandemic hiatus in 2021. Your scribe has a continuing enthusiasm for supporting VIWF plus fond memories since inception in 1979 being the only person attending and actively involved in all 43 of them. Admire their 3 mandates: provide an informative, educational, and entertaining wine experience for public & trade; be a premier marketing opportunity for the wine industry & festival partners; and raise funds (nearly $10 million) for the performing arts presently Bard on the Beach Theatre Society.

A real classy highlight this year was an extraordinary event totally underpriced on May 18, 2022 at the Top Table Group’s CinCin restaurant featuring the outstanding wines of the Antinori Family – a long time supporter of VIWF. This venerable family has contributed to the fine art of winemaking for over six centuries since 1385 through 26 generations. Brand Development Manager Simon Turpin and Mark Anthony Wine & Spirit brought out top wines (some in large formats) for this culinary excellence orchestrated by Executive Chef Bruce Woods and his talented brigade. Some brief impressions on these Antinori wines:

MARCHESE ANTINORI CUVEE ROYALE BRUT NV FRANCIACORTA: This delightful intense fresh blend from Tenuta Montenisa in the heart of respected Franciacorta sells for $43 showing flowery fruit Chardonnay, savoury minerals Pinot Blanc, and structured Pinot Noir and was disgorged (sboccatura) in 2020.

LE MORTELLE M VIVIA BIANCO 2020 MAREMMA TOSCANA: Lovely elegant white citrusy value blend at $27 of Vermentino, Viognier and a dash of Ansonica (Inzolia) grown on sandy, silty loamy soils matched well with the antipasto.

CALAFURIA 2020 SALENTO IGT TORMARESCA ROSE: Negroamaro grown along the Adriatic coastline of Apulia is a beautiful peachy pink colour in the clear bottle and wine glass from stainless steel fermentation aromatic & refreshing at only 12 abv and so serviceable at $28.50 as an exquisite pairing with the delicious seafood course.

VILLA ANTINORI CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA DOCG 1997 (3 Litre): What a wine! What a long simmering reduced ragu! Heaven together. Brought in on special order at $396 for the double magnum. This is a rare treat to enjoy as open, complex, rich, and smooth. Your scribe bought this same outstanding 1997 vintage at BCLDB on August 2001 release in 3 liter size for only $109.95 (and also in magnums at $49.95). What an investment! Know it well and it hasn’t shown any better than presently.

SOLAIA TOSCANA IGT 2004 $748
TIGNANELLO TOSCANA IGT 2004 (6 Liter) $3910: Two great Super Tuscans showing outstanding quality and matching superbly with the wood-fire grilled perfectly cooked beef tenderloin. Both beyond description so well balanced and densely structured with still young fruit vibrancy yet that special savouriness with the food. Solaia (a blend of 75/20/5 Cab Sauv, Sangiovese, Cab Franc) has power with silky tannins but loads of vibrant acidity too all in a refined elegant plus finesse statement. Same grapes in Tignanello but far different ratios (85/10/5 of Sangiovese, Cab Sauv, Cab Franc) presenting more spicy cherries and buckets of young fresh fruit in this very large 6 liter format. Remarkable indeed!

CASTELLO DELLA SALLA “MUFFATO” UMBRIA IGT 2016 $65 (500 ml.): Tasty sweet finish with intriguing aromatics from noble rot on some grapes grown on this Estate near Orvieto in Umbria blending Sauvignon Blanc, Grechetto (contributes to their outstanding “Salla” Chardonnay too), Traminer, Semillon, and Riesling.

Congrats to VIWF, CinCin, Antinori, and everyone involved for producing such a truly outstanding memorable experience. You had to be there to enjoy the camaraderie and admire the friendly quality production. Well done! Remember to book early for choice events like this for the 44th VIWF held the week of April 24-30, 2023.

Question: What is the most surprising older cab sauv from the Okanagan that you have tasted this year?

Answer: That is a tough question because historically the cabernet sauvignon grape hasn’t ripened sufficiently in the Okanagan vineyards in British Columbia. Cabernet Franc has been a better choice. The growing season usually shuts down around the end of October each year and previously there just were not enough days with heat to avoid that green stemmy herbal unripeness in the cab sauv wine. This last decade has been much more encouraging with global climate change resulting in many notable successes. The best biggest surprise tasted this year by your scribe was the 2008 Wild Goose Cabernet Sauvignon from Kerry Hill Vineyard (home of winemaker Hagen Kruger) grown on glacial sand,clay & gravel on a south facing hill in Okanagan Falls. The hot Summer and appropriate crop thinning resulted in a phenolically ripe easy drinking 13.5 abv that showed the potential for this region and particularly even further south on Black Sage Bench. Stay tuned.

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On a rainy Sunday May 15, 2022 from 11 am to 3 pm The Chefs’ Table Society of BC (CTS) & Pacific Prawn Fishermen’s Association (PPFA) launched the exciting 2022 Spot Prawn Festival in-person at False Creek Fishermen’s Wharf in Vancouver. The weather didn’t dampen the enthusiasm of everyone involved from organizers, chefs, sponsors, and keen participants from having a wonderful family outing at this popular event first started in 2006. It celebrates the start of Spot Prawn season (which opened on May 5) a prized catch in British Columbia’s coastal waters. Sustainably controlled short season with sport fishers limited to a catch of 125 prawns per day. Lots to take in at the Festival from the excellent insightful food demos, music, beverages, New England style chowder 10 oz. bowl for $10, and a grazing style Spot Prawn Brunch for $65 featuring 6 delicious diverse dishes from these outstanding chefs:

CHEF STEVE KUAN: TORAFUKU – Spot Prawn Taco, Papaya Salad, Togarashi Mayo

CHEF FELIX ZHOU: BREAD x BUTTER CAFE – Torch Spot Prawn, Apple Jalapeno Puree, Pickled Cucumber, Puffed Wild Rice, Spot Prawn Head Oil

CHEF TOMMY SHORTHOUSE: FANNY BAY OYSTERS BAR & SHELLFISH MARKET – Poached Spot Prawn, Herb Potato Roesti, Romesco Sauce, Herb Salad

CHEF KUNAL DIGHE: JW MARRIOTT PARQ – West Coast Spot Prawn Risotto

CHEF MATEUS VELOSO VIANA: POPINA CANTEEN – Spot Prawn Roll

CHEF JUSTIN CHEUNG: POTLUCK HAWKER EATERY – Spot Prawn Arroz Caldo, Rice Porridge, Chili Crunch, Calamansi, Quail Egg

In addition there was top local wines and beer from O’Rourke’s Peak Cellars (Pinot Gris), Lock and Worth Winery (Semillon & Merlot), and R & B Brewing (25th Anniversary since 1997). Also Umbria Coffee Roasters plus yummy Passione Gelato three flavours of Cherry, Hazelnut, & Pistachios (Vegan).

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Some thoughtful ways of preparing these special spot prawns were featured again this year. Always remember that they must be cooked (but not overcooked) when alive or twist off the heads to prevent an enzyme release. Save the heads for cooking a bisque or stock and store the fresh tails on ice till ready to cook them or freeze them which maintains a good quality product. Thanks to everyone for another successful #SpotPrawnFestival. Try some soon.