Question: Would you please provide us with the current update status on the tariffs added to Italian wines entering America?

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Bourgogne has far more yearly climate variations than many other wine regions. Accordingly, wine collectors are usually enthralled with buying the best Burgundy vintages and often dismissive of the others. Unfair comparisons often occur when the intense fruit of a top vintage overwhelms a lighter less ripe one served together. That was not the case at the latest Vancouver Confrerie des Chevaliers du Tastevin dinner on February 17 at Boulevard Restaurant #BLVDYVR. The whites were lighter 2011 & rich 2012 with no pure classic 2010 or wonderfully balanced 2014 for dramatic differences. Similarly, the reds were all variable vintages, with the 2006 needing careful sorting, the 2007 showing lighter red fruits, and the 2008 being slightly more reliable. The adjoining great vintages—the classic, balanced 2005, the riper, fleshy 2009, or the small-crop, outstanding 2010—were nowhere in sight. This was a good thing, enabling these lesser vintages to shine in their own glory.

The evening commenced with an exquisite 2005 GASTON CHIQUET CHAMPAGNE PREMIER CRU MILLESIME OR, a House that dates back to 1746 when Nicolas Chiquet first planted the vines. Subsequently, from 1919 brothers Fernand & Gaston joined (his own brand launched in 1935). From the 1950s, his son Claude and his sons Antoine & Nicolas joined, and now Antoine’s daughter, Marion Chicquet, is involved. A great family history continues. Impressive bubbles: rich, balanced, and complex; disgorged in February 2015 after nearly 10 years on the lees. Delighted with the Sunseeker oyster & celeriac tart pairing. We finished up with the lighter, more delicate yet full-bodied 1997 FONSECA VINTAGE PORT which is drinking well now though drier than your scribe expected, but it can still wait.

2011 CORTON BLANC GRAND CRU LUCIEN LE MOINE: Founded in the late 1990s by Mounir & Rotem Samoua their “commitment is to produce wines of exceptional purity. We aim to make each wine an accurate and focused expression of its origin, that unique quality the French call ‘terroir’.” Without vineyards they usually purchase fermented juice for long elevage in custom toasted barrels in a reductive style with natural CO2 remaining so that all their wines should be decanted. A darker look with a touch of pétillant which would have cleared better with decanting ahead of time. Mature and ready.

2012 CORTON BLANC GRAND CRU LUCIEN LE MOINE: Though there are 160 hectares of Grand Cru Corton, nearly 72 are the structured Corton-Charlemagne (the largest Grand Cru property ahead of Clos de Vougeot with just over 50) and only a tiny 3.95 hectares is Corton Blanc. This is much lighter, brighter, and encouraging. Fresh with a touch of minerals. Neither vintage of Corton Blanc is as distinctively styled as top Corton-Charlemagne. Corton-Charlemagne, situated at higher elevations, probably survives climate change as well as or better than any other Burgundy white and is a proven longer ager than Corton Blanc. Tasty with the unique innovative crispy pig’s head starter.

2006 GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 1ER CRU CHAMPONNET DOMAINE LOUIS BOILLOT: This Premier Cru Gevrey-Chambertin of Champonnet sits on the Grand Cru hillside as a north extension of 3.32 hectares on clay soil in the lower part, with more gravel at the top. Louis Boillot is a leading producer who worked with his father until starting his own domaine in 2002. Working with his son Clement since 2012 on a minuscule 1/5 of a hectare here, he is now partnered with his wife Ghislaine Barthod, together, they produce 26 cuvées composed of 17 Premier Crus. This wine is made from vines older than 50 years and is 100% destemmed. This 2006 has a darker colour than the 2007, with earthy bigger red fruit notes. No rush. The duck leg course was excellent with this pairing.

2007 GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 1ER CRU CHAMPONNET DOMAINE LOUIS BOILLOT: The lighter, paler rim has developed compared to the 2006 with the cherry and raspberry pure flavours showing significant tertiary finesse. Both so called off vintages show nuanced styling with a wonderful elegance. Drinking well now but no rush.

2006 MOREY-SAINT-DENIS 1ER CRU LES LOUPS DOMAINE DES LAMBRAYS: Thierry Brouin ran this top domain for 40 years, from 1979 until his retirement in April 2018. He was succeeded by Boris Champy for less than a year and LVMH acquired the domain, followed by Jacques Devauges (formerly of Clos de Tart) in March 2019. “Les Loups” is a small production from younger vines sourced from Grand Cru Clos des Lambrays plus two other 1er Cru sites: La Riotte & the unusually named Le Village. Vinification uses punch-downs rather than pump-overs, yet the wines are accessible early on. The 2006 vintage has the best pure fruit notes of red cherry and raspberry, along with tea undertones.

2007 MOREY-SAINT-DENIS 1ER CRU LES LOUPS DOMAINE DES LAMBRAYS: This shows good typical acidity resulting from this vintage, earlier picking, and the use of some stems. Production in 2007 was very small, totaling only 1,500 bottles.

2008 MOREY-SAINT-DENIS 1ER CRU LES LOUPS DOMAINE DES LAMBRAYS: This 2008 is quite a bit lighter in colour but has lovely, classy perfumes, spice, and suppleness. Delicious with the special beef course. I’m impressed with how well these lesser vintages bought at a super value are showing on their own merit without being compared against the very best longer aging years.

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Question: While recently travelling in southern India, I tasted an unusual wine named Kallu. What is it?

Answer: Kallu is a unique Indian wine produced – not from grapes – but from the fermented sap of palm trees. How did you like it?

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Chateau Leoville Barton Saint-Julien is a popular red Bordeaux that has consistently offered excellent quality for its price over the years. Accordingly, many of us here in British Columbia have collected and admired it. Different vintages of this wine have been referenced many times on this Blog including a recent vertical tasting by our Group of Eight on September 23, 2025, which was posted here on October 7. A second vertical of Chateau Leoville Barton was held by the Vancouver Commanderie de Bordeaux at Blue Water Cafe on February 10, 2026, featuring different vintages, but including three identical ones: 2003, 1995, and 1982. All the wines for the first tasting came from the same local source acquired on initial release and kept unmoved in cool storage. In contrast, the wines for the second tasting were recently sourced from warmer locations, assembled, and then moved to Vancouver. The difference was clearly noticeable to your scribe: the first tasting trio was darker, deeper, and slower aging than the second trio, which was more open approachable and mature – actually a good thing. Interestingly, the 1982 vintage showed better this time. Unfortunately one of my favs the classic 2000 was not present at either vertical. The first tasting had only one bottle of each vintage, and the second had three. All bottles were sound, though they varied. This just shows the inevitable bottle variation that always exists when consuming older wines. Be open-minded about how your old bottle is actually showing at this specific point.

Some excellent hors d’oeuvre of sweet Dungeness crab, swordfish gyoza and fresh briny Kusshi oysters paired well with the aperitif: 2012 CHARLES HEIDSIECK VINTAGE BRUT, composed of 60% Pinot Noir & 40% Chardonnay disgorged in 2021 after 8+ years on the lees. Admired the fresh crisply balanced yet creamy and toasty concentration of these bubbles. It has rich flavours and is drinking beautifully now, but it should easily remain on this beautiful plateau of enjoyment for at least another 10+ years. We finished with two Sauternes from the exceptional 2001 vintage showing distinctively different stylings. CHATEAU RIEUSSEC 2001 has deep gold rich full noble rot botrytis with intense complex concentration compared to the lighter, clean, elegant, forward CHATEAU DE MALLE 2001 bonus treat. Both matched the dessert’s notes of orange, almond, citrus, and pineapple.

Nine red wines across three flights, each with three vintages, with brief impressions:

2017 CHATEAU LEOVILLE BARTON SAINT-JULIEN: This 51 hectare Estate grows 74% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, and 3% Cabernet Franc. However, the 2017 blend used a very high 93% Cabernet Sauvignon & 7% Merlot (September rains affected the Merlot & Cabernet Franc), resulting in a deep, young Cabernet Sauvignon statement. However, it is less powerful than expected showing the finesse of the 2017 vintage well. Blair Curtis commented on this first flight that it has “a good open nose with a mix of red and black fruits but not the stamina for long aging.” Nick Wright really liked this vintage,” noting the nice definition provided by the high Cabernet Sauvignon.” Best younger vintage with the tasty tuna starter.

2015 CHATEAU LEOVILLE BARTON SAINT-JULIEN: 86% CS & 14% Merlot; Again, no Cab Franc in the blend with 60% new oak at only 13 ABV. Darker, deeper, riper, bigger cassis dense fruit with prominent tannins, characteristic of 2015. Patience is needed. Blair found “minerals and metallic notes, but not unpleasant with raspberries and dry, firm, finishing tannins.”

2009 CHATEAU LEOVILLE BARTON SAINT-JULIEN: 77CS/22M/1CF with 60% new oak at 13 ABV. A stand-out from the start as Wine Enthusiast #3 in Top 100 of 2012. Like the St. Julien’s definition, but it shows more Merlot than the last two wines. Starting to show some tertiary bouquet development of juicy plums & black currants with cedar notes. Blair said, “Less Cab Sauv, but the biggest and ripest tannins are integrating.” Fred Withers liked this vintage. Group favourite.

2003 CHATEAU LEOVILLE BARTON SAINT-JULIEN: Hot year of 74CS/23M/3CF harvested September 11-22 using 70% new oak. Lovely drinking now but much lighter than the October 2025 bottle. It doesn’t seem as big, ripe, or youthful here. Nick Wright found “a sweet spot drinking well.” Great with the unique 80% dark chocolate sauce on the Elk course.

1995 CHATEAU LEOVILLE BARTON SAINT-JULIEN: 78CS/19M/3CF harvested September 19-28 at 12.5 ABV. It is aging way slower than the 2003 vintage, but it is more open and forward than the bottle showing in October 2025. Textbook older Leoville Barton. This tasting seems less conducive to slow potential, as it shows lighter in development and matures faster due to storage, though flight commentator Bill Sirett smartly stated, “It needs time.”

1982 CHATEAU LEOVILLE BARTON SAINT-JULIEN: 72CS/20M/8CF with no new oak used. Often “rustic” but sweet soft ready very mature bottles were here, varying somewhat. Not as successful as many 1982 St. Julien’s properties, including recent tastings of Leoville Las Cases, Gruaud-Larose, Talbot, Beychevelle, and Branaire Ducru, all shone much brighter. I wish we had the 1986 tonight because it showed brilliantly in October 2025 and this underrated, concentrated, intense beauty is starting to reveal attractive charm as well.

2008 CHATEAU LEOVILLE BARTON SAINT-JULIEN: The typical blend surprises better than expected, featuring stylish yet chateau trademark medicinal notes. Flight commentator Dr. Bob Rothwell found “graphite with the peppercorn cassis.” Like those flavours together with the Flat Iron & Shortrib main course.

2005 CHATEAU LEOVILLE BARTON SAINT-JULIEN: Outstanding vintage, aged 50% in new oak, shows superb, balanced structure. Also admired for its intense richness, the elegant, delicate styling—which becomes more evident at 20 years of age—is still somewhat hidden. Really special and will age so well. My fav of the evening.

2003 CHATEAU LANGOA BARTON SAINT-JULIEN: Served double blind as a MYSTERY wine. There were many guesses, ranging from 2010 vintage to Chateau Leoville Poyferre but it seemed lighter, softer, older and mature. Not surprising really as this blend is ripe and forward, with the least 57CS/most 34M/most 9CF. Fun experience.

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Question: I heard Italy got an important cooking prize. What is it?

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