Question: Wasn’t it nearly 50 years ago that California first beat France in a wine tasting held in Paris? What are the details of that?

Answer: Yes, indeed, the 50th Anniversary of the famous Paris wine tasting held on May 24, 1976 by the late Steven Spurrier is coming up soon. Much activity is planned to celebrate it. On May 1, the Académie du Vin Library is releasing a new hardback book edited by Susan Keevil, “The Judgement of Paris – The Event That Shook The Wine World”: A Celebration Of The 50th Anniversary. Our International Wine & Food Society is organizing updated wine tastings, which several branches will host in commemoration. Should be exciting. Although the details of this wine tasting are widely available online, a useful, more recent summary in Time Magazine is here. It also contains a link to George M. Taber’s original coverage report from June 7, 1976. He later published a book on the subject as well. Stay tuned here for more extended coverage and insightful comments on these ongoing wine events.

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On March 17, IWFS Vancouver held a ten-year look at the highly rated 2015 Bordeaux vintage at the Culinary Commons newly opened by The Chefs’ Table Society of BC. A wonderful emerging space for the hospitality industry that has already assembled one of the largest cookbook collections. Your scribe conducted a wine tasting for the members, featuring nine chateaux for a detailed look at the 2015 vintage. We were also treated to a remarkable food sampling of nine different, tasty items presented in a colourful Bento Box prepared by talented sommelier/chef Van Doren Chan. Such diverse works of art from special abalone imported from Hong Kong, perfectly cooked duck breast, and exotic mushrooms, to shiro negi (Japanese leek) custard tart. All so delicious. Congrats! Many thanks.

The weather in Bordeaux from April to the end of July 2015 was very dry and hot resulting in smaller grapes with thick skins followed by a wetter August & cooler September. Accordingly, the 2015 vintage was initially released with optimistic recommendations also helped by four lesser years from 2011-2014. However, the following 2016 vintage rivalled or exceeded 2015 by also having density with better structure and balanced acidity. Interesting comparison of those two vintages. The 2015 vintage is variable, favouring the Margaux & Pessac-Léognan regions (like in 1983) because of more late-season rains in the upper Medoc. Alcohol levels range from 12.5–13% in the Medoc to 15–15.5% (Troplong Mondot) on the Right Bank. Here are some comments from my longer presentation, plus the tasting order based on the initial local purchase price:

2015 CHATEAU LE ROUDIER BORDEAUX SUPERIEUR $28.85: 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc from 25 hectares of Patrick Chevrier in Maransin near St. Emilion. Good clay soils for the Merlot, but needing more 2015 fruit intensity. At 13% ABV, it’s a bit thin and dry, but it would show much better paired with food, reflecting its refreshing Bordeaux styling. Value.

2015 CHATEAU FRANC LE MAINE ST. EMILION GRAND CRU $51.85: 61M/35CF/4CS blend from Vignobles Philippe Bardet, sourced from over 11 hectares south of Saint-Émilion on diverse clay, sand, & gravel soils with lower yields of 39 hl/ha. Dozens of properties use “Franc” in their name but the best one is Chateau Franc-Mayne so this Franc Le Maine is particularly confusing. Aged in barrels for 14-18 months, featuring 50% new oak, resulting in a darker, 14.5% ABV fruit-forward profile. Shows spicy red figgy fruit with underlying floral leafy herbal notes – very St. Emilion styled.

2015 CHATEAU HAUT BERGEY PESSAC-LEOGNAN $57.60: 47M/36CS/10Petit Verdot/7CF certified biodynamic grown on 42 hectares, mostly gravel in the heart of Leognan village near Domaine de Chevalier. Sylviane Garlin-Cathiard (sister of Daniel Cathiard & Florence who bought Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte in 1990; Daniel died this year) bought the property in 1991 though this 2015 is the first one produced by her brother Paul Garcin. Certified organic in 2017. Plush ripe cherries and spicy plums at 13.5% ABV with rounder, earthy, smoky complexity. Drinking on a lovely approachable plateau.

2015 CHATEAU BROWN PESSAC-LEOGNAN $63.35: 55CS/43M/2PV from the Mau family (previously negociants) who bought this property in 2004 and is ever on the improve with much vine replanting at higher density and natural trees environment plus consultant Stephane Derenoncourt. Bright and stylish with sweet fruit, tobacco, and notes of pepper/cinnamon all nicely structured at 14% ABV. No rush.

2015 LES FIEFS DE LAGRANGE ST. JULIEN $ 69.10: 55CS/41M/4PV is the second wine of Suntory’s Third Growth property, Château Lagrange since 1983. Lighter and more forwardly supple soft with some classy St. Julien terroir. The Grand Vin has more Cab Sauv for riper concentrated cassis complexity. However, this vintage of Les Fiefs has some greener herbal notes from younger vines and less-phenolic ripeness in the grapes. Enjoy it now.

2015 CHATEAU POTENSAC NORTH MEDOC $69.10: 45M/38CS/17CF from this remarkably consistent Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel, near Chateau Sociando-Malet, above St. Estèphe, made by the Delon Family team of Chateau Leoville Las Cases. A favorite of ours dating back to the seventies. Older vines and smart strict selection (only 55% used with 45% in La Chapelle de Potensac) work so well here. Admire the amazing quality level every year. Rich solid black currant intensity at 13.5% ABV, with lead pencil, graphite, and complexity. So juicy and delicious. Yes please!

2015 CHATEAU OLIVIER PESSAC-LEOGNAN $74.85: 58CS/40M/2PV from this historic impressive property dating back to the 12th century. Until recently, they were known more for their white Bordeaux. Improved bigger reds from lower yields show more depth and harmony from Famille Bethmann and Laurent Lebrun. However this vintage is almost too much at 14.5% ABV, featuring a thick, extracted, stewed, concentrated blend. Interesting, but perhaps it lacks finesse in not showing the elegant terroir to its best advantage. Still a Chateau on the move and one to watch for excellent current vintages like 2022.

2015 CHATEAU PIBRAN PAUILLAC $80.60: 50M/50CS vinified by the AXA team at Chateau Pichon Baron. Fall rains were not in favour of Pauillac & St. Estèphe, but top quality control worked well here. Mid weight at 13.5% ABV with classic cedar, cassis, and tobacco notes. Admire the purity, elegance, and charm, integrated with acid and tannins, using 50% new oak.

2015 CHATEAU MARQUIS DE TERME MARGAUX $103.60: 60CS/33M/7PV from another old 15th-century site, now a 40 hectare Fourth Growth from 1855. A complete modern renovation occurred in 2009 (with a restaurant added in 2018); the property started its organic process in 2013 and achieved certification in 2017. This vintage 2015 suffered delayed bud burst due to water stress, followed by a shutdown during veraison before welcome August rains unblocked the process. Experimenting with egg-shaped 600-liter concrete vats for additional minerality. This wine is sensational, offering a complex bouquet that includes licorice, sweet floral perfume, luscious palate density, and Margaux terroir finesse. Probably the best Marquis de Terme ever made. Clearly Wine of the Night!

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Question: Where is the Chiavennasca wine grape grown?

Answer: Chiavennasca is a grape grown in the Valtellina Valley in the Lombardy region of Italy along the Swiss border. It produces superb, light, acid-balanced, aromatic, elegant, stylish wines from elevated, south-facing steep mountainous vineyards. It is the local name for the more famous Nebbiolo grape variety in Piedmont but grown without the foggy “nebbia” conditions. Try the wines, ranging from the forward drinking Rosso di Valtellina (DOC) to the refined, age-worthy Valtellina Superiore (DOCG). They also produce a more robust wine, “Sforzato” (DOCG) from dried grapes. It is fun and insightful to do a comparison tasting between a more tannic Barbaresco or Barolo with a Valtellina!

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The 47th annual @VANWINEFEST Vancouver International Wine Festival #VIWF has just concluded giving us another educational and insightful week on wine, food and hospitality. This year’s focus was on France, featuring key wines and seminars. The opening Trade event “France: Terroir & Trends,” was held early at 9:30 am on Thursday March 12. Eight French wines from six regions were tasted to discover their terroir or “sense of place,” on a panel well moderated by Arnica Rowan @arnicarowan with knowledgeable comments from winery principals. The presentation was inspired by Andrew Jefford for his ideas plus illustrations created using generative AI (ChatGPT) with a reference to TerroirWine.ca. The organizers do a terrific job assisting you with the helpful detailed program outline set out below. Some comments from your scribe:

1. 2022 CHABLIS LES BLANCHOTS GRAND CRU DOMAINE LAROCHE: What an amazing start with a Grand Cru Chablis! Big fan of Laroche Chablis since the seventies due to the pioneering quality work by Michel Laroche & his wife, Gwenael (now at Le Domaine d’Henri). Domaine Laroche owns over 1/3 of the vineyards in their flagship Blanchots, where the special white clay soil layer over Kimmeridgian limestone provides a lighter more delicate style. They also use the best grape lots from this Grand Cru to make the exciting “La Reserve de l’Obedience,” which has more complex depth and finesse than the regular Blanchots. The 2022 harvest began earlier, at the end of August, yielding a large crop of varying ripeness. Our wine is forwardly light, young, bright, and round, showing lovely Chablis character but it is overall rather soft and needs better structure with more acidity for long aging. I prefer the vibrancy and richer character of their Grand Cru Les Bougerots & Les Clos in 2022 for cellaring.

2. 2015 CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE BLANC CLOS DE L’ORATOIRE DES PAPES: This winery admirably uses organic methods encouraging composting to invite insects, employing cover crops, and implementing active water preservation measures. This ten-year-old Rhône white, sourced from two parcels on limestone soil, blends 30% each of Clairette, Grenache Blanc, and Roussanne with 10% Bourboulenc. It shows an aged yellow-gold color and deep, ripe, sweeter honey peach perfumes. It is uniquely full, rich, and powerful, currently on a wonderful drinking plateau. Nice maturity. Such a dramatic contrast to the Chablis.

3. 2023 EMBUNS DE VIOGNIER DOMAINE GASSIER: This 100% Viognier, organically grown by keen producers Tina & Michel Gassier for Chateau de Nages in the Languedoc as Vin de Pays du Gard has the variety’s typically distinctive spicy apricot fullness. So lush at 13% ABV for a bargain price!

4. 2023 GEWURZTRAMINER CUVEE BACCHUS PFAFF: It combines two soil types in Alsace—limestone and chalky clay—to grow Gewürztraminer grapes, producing a very aromatic, expressive, spicy, floral wine with notes of rose and lychee that is true to the variety. Off-dry at 13.5% ABV with a touch of ginger is so pleasant.

5. 2022 CHATEAU CAPET-GUILLIERE ST. EMILION: Four hectares of deep, compact clay-limestone soils yield a balanced blend of 82% Merlot & 18% Cabernet Franc, offering a fruity Right Bank expression of Grand Cru Saint-Émilion south in Saint-Hippolyte. The estate has used biodynamic practices since 2021. Antoine Moueix Proprietes uses four weeks of maceration, malolactic fermentation in barrique, and aging in 50% new French oak for 12-16 months to produce 18,000 bottles of this floral, plush, easy-drinking red. Another example of improving smaller, valuable properties emerging around Bordeaux.

6. 2020 CLOS D’ORA MINERVOIS LA LIVINIERE GÉRARD BERTRAND: This expensive premium red wine from Languedoc-Roussillon is an organic biodynamic blend of Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, and Carignan, sourced from nine stone walled hectares on limestone marl soils with horse-tended rows. Fermented in concrete and aged one year in French oak this complex wine at a powerful 15.5% ABV features intense blackberries, dark plums & cherries, dominated by an elegant touch of spicy garrigue. This is truly amazing wine from a remarkable producer, Gerard Bertrand, with numbered bottles; it needs further aging to best show its rich depth of fruit quality. An innovator as “L’Art De Vivre Les Vins Du Sud” for sure.

7. 2017 LES JARDINS PHILOSOPHIQUES BLANC CHATEAU BOUCASSE: Two unusual wines from South-West France by Vigneron & Proprietaire Alain Brumont conclude this interesting wine tasting. This white wine is a blend of 70% lesser-known Petit Courbu and 30% Petit Manseng; it ferments in tanks with long lees aging but sees no wood. At 13.5% ABV, it shows very ripe, yet dry, exotic, smooth, and honeyed fruit. Perhaps try pairing with foie gras. Discovered by CostcoUSA and sold for a steal at $13 a bottle, it is still relatively inexpensive in Canada, selling in the low forty-dollar range. Unique.

8. 2019 CHATEAU MONTUS MADIRAN: This protected appellation produces this powerful blend of 60% Tannat with 20% each of Cabernet Sauvignon & Cabernet Franc at 13.5% ABV. Old vines of Bouscasse in Madiran, Gascony, in southwest France. A long 30–45 day maceration on skins and three years in wood results in a grippy, tannic red wine. CostcoUSA also discovered this wine and sold it for a crazy low price of $15 a bottle. Even though the price in Canada is now $48, it is still a low price for a big, full-bodied, distinct terroir Madiran. Good matching for BBQ. This seminar clearly illustrated France’s diverse wines. Thanks.

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Question: I hear that some legal decisions in France will make organic farming more difficult. What are those?

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