Question: Which country recently received world recognition for the quality of the cuisine?

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This Blog has generated significant enthusiasm for increased consumer use of our excellent, nutritious West Coast salmon. Many links have been posted, including one from July 19, 2021 with more information on the five main varieties of salmon. We now also have a terrific photo illustration and description of the five species during their spawning phase, organized by the Pacific Salmon Foundation, prominently displayed on the wall of the Culinary Commons of the Chefs’ Table Society of BC – see the illustration below. Last year we celebrated the annual late Spring to early Summer release of wild Copper River salmon paired with an excellent 2008 Meursault Perrieres 1er Cru Bouchard Père, referenced and linked here on July 28, 2025.

It is now the 2026 fresh salmon season, so for the last few weeks we have been comparing our Costco purchases of two types being farmed organic Chinook ($41/kg or $18.60/lb) and wild Copper River Sockeye ($50/kg or $23/lb). Both were excellent but offered quite different styles and flavours. The source of the Chinook (raised without antibiotics or GMOs) is somewhat confusing. Although we were told the Chinook is from Alaska the USDA does not have established organic certification standards, so it is probably from British Columbia salmon farms. One of the differences between wild and farmed salmon is the ratio of healthy Omega-3 to less healthy Omega-6. The Omega-6 ratio is higher in farmed salmon because their feed differs and is usually sourced from grains. This Chinook has a very high fat content, resulting in a buttery rich texture. We understand that everyone has their own favourite methods of cooking fish (and especially salmon) to perfection. However, because of this softer high fat content it can tolerate a hotter longer cooking time to release some oils and we prefer it with a crispy outside. Accordingly, season the Chinook, lay it on a sheet pan and roast it in a pre-heated oven at 425 for 8-10 minutes, adjusting for thickness to your preference. Moist and is unlikely to become overcooked. Let the fish rest for a few minutes before serving; garnishing with a wedge of lemon is a good idea. The wild Copper River Sockeye from Alaska is very dark deep vibrant red in colour and contains a very high Omega-3 fat content. However it is not as fatty or oily as the farmed Chinook. Suggest cooking the Sockeye by heating a cast iron pan lightly brushed with EVOO until hot before placing the fish skin side down and letting it sizzle and crisp up. Then reduce the heat (or even turn the heat off as the pan stays quite hot for a while) and flip the salmon over to finish cooking to your own preferred taste. Approximately 8 minutes total cooking time for a 1 1/4-inch-thick piece. Be careful not to overcook this leaner Sockeye (compared to the Chinook) as it can dry out quite quickly. Enjoy. We paired successfully a variety of white wines with these salmon dishes, ranging from Champagne and white Burgundy to Australian Chardonnay – as shown in the photos below. Interesting comparison.

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Question: I was wondering with global warming if the frost and hail risks continue to be worrisome for Burgundy?

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Our Vancouver Group of Eight has held some memorable wine events over the years. We generally have preferred emphasizing the amazing diversity found in the regions of Bordeaux & Burgundy. Earlier this year, however, we spotlighted Dominus Napa Valley, California, in a vertical wine tasting and our latest focus is Sassicaia – the original Italian Super Tuscan. Our event #143 at Blue Water Cafe on June 9, 2026 featured our usual nine vintages across two flights starting with the youngest (2009) and going back to the oldest (1982). Mario and the Incisa Della Rocchetta family started with the original 30 hectares of plantings in 1942 (now expanded to 90 under vine), inspired by Bordeaux’s Graves region due to its similar gravelly soil and proximity to the sea. This experiment served as a “house wine” until the 1968 vintage’s first release. Because the non-traditional grapes used did not qualify for Italy’s strict DOC laws, Sassicaia was initially released as Vino da Tavola. Later, this single estate received its own exclusive appellation: Bolgheri Sassicaia DOC meaning “The Area of the Rocks.” So many top Italian wines now carry the distinctive “aia” ending to their name. This release showed that Cabernet Sauvignon & Cabernet Franc were the most successful varieties planted (Merlot was later used in the second wine blend, Guidalberto, which started in 2001) though the wine started slowly, with no vintages released in 1969 or 1973. The Tenuta San Guido estate in Bolgheri is a large 2,500-hectare property consisting of wildlife preserve of natural scrubland, forest, marshland, horse raising, and vineyards. As a previous thoroughbred owner your scribe was initially enticed to visit in the early eighties not only for the wine but also because it is the home of the very outstanding Ribot – two consecutive wins at the Prix de l’Arc de Triomphe in Paris—as one of the greatest racehorses of all time. Still enchanted on every memorable visit by the welcoming Avenue of Cypress Trees. An impressive estate.

We started our evening with the celebrated 2002 vintage of PAUL BARA COMTESSE MARIE DE FRANCE BOUZY GRAND CRU using only the first press of 100% Pinot Noir disgorged 16/07/14 after 12 years on the lees. This House, established in 1860 with 11 hectares (33 parcels), was one of the first Grower Champagnes imported into the USA in the mid-seventies by Kermit Lynch. Christian Forget was the longtime winemaker for over 30 years, but now the 6th family generation with Chantale Bara, has a new winemaker Gregory Baert as of 2023. The 2002 vintage in Champagne was one of the all-time best for combining ripe fruit with sharper acidity for aging but especially for minerally Chardonnay. This outstanding Pinot Noir has the usual rich full excellent mouthfeel with honey praline peaches and a spicy complex finish, which paired well with the flavourful starter course including Porcini.

We finished with arguably the Wine of the Night: the 1990 CHATEAU D’YQUEM, SAUTERNES produced by Alexandre Lur Saluces for the period 1968-1997 before the LVMH takeover. Last of an outstanding trio, 1990 is full, rich, and powerful, with remarkable balance for long aging. It shows complex tropical notes, coconut, and crème brûlée developing beautifully already at a youthful 35 years of age. It was complemented well by the almond & apricot dessert. A wine for the ages. Noble treat indeed.

The main event of nine Sassicaia vintages usually is a blend of about 80- 85% Cabernet Sauvignon blended with 15-20% Cabernet Franc aged for nearly two years in oak. Our leader, Ian Mottershead, aptly introduced the two flights. He posed two questions: “Is there much difference in Sassicaia from year to year, as shown in the five consecutive vintages tasted from 2009 to 2005?” and secondly “Does Sassicaia age well for the longer term of 40 years (1985, 1983, and 1982) or is it more of a middle distance runner?”

2009 SASSICAIA: First vintage of the new winemaking trio, including Carlo Paoli, Grassini, and Marchese Nicola. Reddish garnet rim with thick tears of viscosity. Your scribe detected a slightly different, sweeter American oak on the nose. Their website states, “The wine was placed in French oak barriques, and a small part in American oak, where it was aged for a period between 20 and 25 months” at 14% ABV. Fred Withers liked this one for the “rich, lush, creamy textures”. It shows lots of bold cherry fruit and spice with velvety tannins. Attractive star power.

2008 SASSICAIA: This joint effort by the newly formed team with long time winemaker Giacomo Tachis (also for the Antinori family), shows a younger, darker look with impressive aromatics at 13.5% ABV. Some medicinal minty licorice quite open. The cooler September winds allowed for longer slower ripening and lovely balance. Superb with the two way duck course. David Kester liked the structure and more Bordeaux-style of this vintage.

2007 SASSICAIA: Last vintage solely by Giacomo Tachis has a paler, mature look and was possibly affected somewhat by late-season rains; 13.5% ABV. Forward, with less body than 2008, it ranked fifth in the first flight but still shows the property’s signature harmony and freshness of quality tannins making it delicious drinking presently.

2006 SASSICAIA: Darkest and deepest colour of the flight at 13.5% ABV. Special pure classy bouquet of rich minerals with a touch of balsamico. Impressive concentration with a perfect balance of refined tannins and finishing lift. No rush. Outstanding depth and my exciting first choice. It was also the pick of Nick Wright and Blair Curtis. Well done. Best potential of all the reds for brilliant complexity in the future!

2005 SASSICAIA: It looks lighter and similar to the 2007 but has more red color right to the edge at 13.5% ABV. For me the tea notes and bell pepper herbs are interesting but less complex and it is drinking on a lovely plateau of current enjoyment. Doug Loughran stated, “it is more balanced though not as full or intense”. I rank it fourth. The answer to Ian’s question is that the five vintages all show quite differently though all possess the Sassicaia signature of finesse and precise refinement. Quality shows.

2001 SASSICAIA: Great vintage in most wine regions of Italy including Bolgheri. Still dark red and deep right to the rim at 25 years of age at 13.5% ABV. It shows some intriguing tertiary minty mocha spicy notes. Again I admire the fresh overall acidity balance, the elegant, suave, fine-grain tannins – all so smooth and supple. It is on the beginning of a wonderful plateau of quality drinking. Recommend.

1985 SASSICAIA: Big colour but unclean at 13% ABV. Jim Robertson cleverly advised me to change my tainted wine glass. Much better: clean nose and silky, voluptuous texture. I have tasted this wine many times over the years and only once have I been completely blown away. I’ve been unlucky with bottle variability for this celebrated vintage, but I also seem always to notice an underlying earthy wild herbal characteristic others don’t. Everyone else loved it so it must just be me. A lot of substance for sure.

1983 SASSICAIA: Paler light red garnet colour with a browner rim. Mostly herbal with cocoa notes in this flight. Quite stylish with a sweet, smooth entry and rounded tannins. Older Bordeaux-like and charming. Drink and enjoy it presently.

1982 SASSICAIA: Dark and bright aging well at the lowest 12.5% ABV. I really appreciate the depth of the exotic bouquet with subtle truffles, porcini, graphite, juniper, sage, and peppery spices. Ready, mature delicious flavours and even more enchanting with the black pepper short ribs. Drinking beautifully elegant and stylish. Interestingly, all four wines of the second flight again showed so differently. Impressive. At 40+ years of age, it probably isn’t aging quite as long as the unbelievable 1982 balanced top Bordeaux, but it has its own enticing refined Sassicaia style. Congrats.

PS: These are up-to-date, frank impressions from nine single bottles of Sassicaia. A much more extensive and detailed 2022 report on 40 years by Ian d’Agata is available linked here at terroirsense.com. He initially preferred 2001 over 2006 but now feels the 2006 is improving and deserves 98 points over the 2001 at 95. His highest 100 point scores are for 2016 & 2009.

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Question: Sid – Would you please briefly share your present thoughts on the progress of the 2025 Bordeaux red wines?

Answer: Unfortunately, I wasn’t at the 2025 Primeurs tastings held in Bordeaux at the end of April this year. However, attendees sent many bullish reports and I received key background information released directly from the wineries. The tiniest crop since 1991 resulted in lower grape yields. The small grapes were harvested quite early following hot, dry weather. Cooler summer nights benefited the overall balance, creating a favourable diurnal temperature swing that helped preserve acidity. The 2025 wines still in oak show clean, fresh brightness with intensity in a classic style at lower alcohol levels – all very encouraging. On Monday in Vancouver, your scribe had an insightful one-on-one lunch with my visiting friend Veronique Sanders, President of Chateau Haut-Bailly. She told me her 2025 is truly excellent, top quality at much lower pricing – as are most Bordeaux Chateaux in 2025. Haut-Bailly has given it the one word description “Holistic,” and Veronique likes the elegance and harmony of her 2025. That for me is a really reliable recommendation for a good value buy. Besides vintages ending in “5” are always worth collecting, as they have been on an amazing consecutive run from 2015, 2005, 1995, 1985, and the overly tannic 1975 – plus older historic greats of 1955 & 1945! Continue to monitor 2025 red Bordeaux.

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