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Question: What is the name of the largest grape variety?
Answer: That would be KYOHO. It is a very dark large round plum size flavourful eating grape developed in 1937. It is inspired from Mt. Fuji and means “giant mountain grape.” Native to Japan but now cultivated in several places including California, Chile, China, and Korea. Like Concord grapes they have proven to be more successful for eating and jams than for making a “grapey” wine.
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The second day of the International Wine & Food Society Vancouver Branch 2022 Wine Tour was a wonderful day filled with 5 interesting winery visits in the South Okanagan. Note that this is a warmer region where temperatures over 10C (50F) during the growing season results in Growing Degree Days as shown in Osoyoos at 1556 (Similkameen 1519) highest of 16 listed.
1. CULMINA FAMILY ESTATE WINERY
Culmina is located on the important Golden Mile Bench on the west side of the Valley just south of Oliver, British Columbia. Managed by Winemaker & Vigneron Jean-Marc Enixon the 2021 vintage is their first to be certified 100% Organic. Our visit was superbly organized by personable Estate Manager Maryke Vandermarel as a classy sit down guided tasting in the fermentation room showing 7 excellent wines:
UNICUS 2020 $29 is the increasingly popular 100% Gruner Veltliner planted in 2011 on the high elevation Margaret’s Bench utilizing lower yields for concentration and balance.
DILEMMA 2017 $31 is their fresh acidity Chardonnay from Margaret’s Bench.
NATURAL MALBEC No. 016 2021 $32 from Arise Bench in neutral oak.
MALBEC 2016 $39 Arise Bench all French oak (17% new) lovely cool fruit.
CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2017 $40 Late picked fully mature grapes Nov. 5-7.
HYPOTHESIS 2016 $46 First year using all 5 Bordeaux varieties picked at optimal times up to Petit Verdot on Nov. 11.
ORANGE WINE GEWURZ 2020 $25 Spent 67 days on skins. Dried apricots.
2. CHECKMATE ARTISANAL WINERY
What an amazing showcase special treat started in 2012 (now with a brand new spectacular winery) by respected Anthony Von Mandl that is producing remarkable top end outstanding Chardonnay and Merlot. Jackson planned our visit as an insightful knowledge filled personalized tasting experience of 5 wines:
ATTACK CHARDONNY 2015 $115 – From Jagged Rock & Border Vista Vineyard made only in 1200 litre puncheons “foudre” in a “Chablis-like” style with mineral spices and zesty finishing lift
QUEEN’S ADVANTAGE CHARDONNAY 2018 $95 – From old vines Combret Vineyard planted in 1973 on Golden Mile Bench of deep rocky calcium carbonate soils is a full richer rounder beautifully textured style.
KNIGHT’S CHALLENGE CHARDONNAY 2017 $95 – From Sunset Vineyard on Black Sage Bench with hotter sunny afternoons picked earlier with less hang time results in a more oaky vanilla classic rich powerful statement.
Your scribe has recently tasted CAPTURE CHARDONNAY 2018 $95 from Border Vista Vineyard of leaner sandy soils on the USA border with layered length of flavours. Also the highly celebrated complex LITTLE PAWN CHARDONNAY $110 (100 points 2015, 2016, and 2018) from Jagged Rock Vineyard using 83% wild yeast fermentation in 50% new French oak for 16 months.
SILENT BISHOP MERLOT 2017 $95 from Osoyoos West Bench, Golden Mile Bench, and Oliver North all cooler regions with less sun. Regions plus lighter year produces fresher bright floral red fruits in an earthy fruit forward styling.
END GAME MERLOT 2018 $95 from Black Sage Bench & Osoyoos East shows a fuller riper richer robust spice from a warmer year with more cellaring potential.
3. TINHORN CREEK VINEYARDS
Founded in 1993 by Sandra Oldfield and her team it was developed over time with some very good wines. Early emphasis on Merlot and insightful growing of Cab Franc (no Cab Sauv difficult to ripen) with stellar Oldfield Series of best selection. Good wine list of older vintages and newer successes on wine list at MIRADORO restaurant there. Great team of Manny Ferreira Restaurateur, Jeff Van Geest Executive Chef (lots of foraged wild foods), and Sam Lymbery GM served tasty lunch of delicious minestrone bean soup and pork/beef meatball with beautiful freshly picked greens all hit the spot!
4. LE VIEUX PIN
Excellent wines here and at sister winery LaStella with Winemaker/Viticulturist Severine Pinte. Like her minimalist philosophy that “wine is made in the vineyard”. Educational 4 soils samples of Stagg’s, Lumeno, La Feuille d’Or/Mercier and Le Grand Pin. See photo for more details. Severine on 2021: “Despite the challenges mother nature threw at us with the heat dome in late June and forest fires during the summer, the 2021 wines are tasting delicious. Whites have some tension, lots of flavours and concentration. The rose wines are really fruity and have a nice backbone of natural acidity. The reds, while maturing slower for some of the varieties, are showing nice full ripe tannins and lots of vibrant fruits.” Tasted 5 wines:
ROUSSANNE 2017 Fantastic texture and depth at 13.6 abv and only 50 cases
AVA 2021 $35 Roussanne Viognier Marsanne Blend 53/30/17 at 14.4
SYRAH 2020 $35 Only 4 tons/acre 97.5% Syrah & 2.5% Viognier
SYRAH CUVEE VIOLETTE 2017 99.5 Syrah & .5 Viognier 1453 cases 13.4
EQUINOXE SYRAH 2019 $100. 97 Syrah & 3% Viognier 14.5 19 months French oak is an impressive selection of best barrels.
5. BARTIER BROS.
So experienced knowledgeable mentor Michael Bartier has their special Cerqueira Vineyard on the Black Sage Terrace in Oliver BC and had just returned late afternoon from manually spraying all his vineyards. Wines:
SPARKLING BRUT Traditional Method $34.99 All Chardonnay 100 cases
GRUNER VELTLINER 2021 $29.99 Fresh lovely drinking limited to Club members
SEMILLON 2021 $22.99 Aged 7 months in stainless Vibrant & Complex. Written up this year here compared to Tyrrell Vat 1 from Hunter in Australia.
ROSE 2021 $18.99 Gewurz Chard Pinot Gris Syrah blend 41/39/25/4
ORCHARD ROW 2019 $39.99 Cab Franc, Gamay, Pinot Noir, Syrah 47/24/24/5 blend 14 months neutral French oak.
Surprise added benefit to see Ingo Grady and Patti of Hermit Wine Co. now moved to the South Okanagan and helping out Michael too. He showed us his excellent 2018 RMX blend of Malbec, Mouvedre and Syrah/ Viognier red at 14.5 drinking wonderfully now.
Wonderful dinner to end our day at CONVIVIA BISTRO CUISINE by owners Johanne Dupont & Charles Perrutel. With food the Bartier Bros. 2019 Syrah paired so well enhancing our lamb shank!
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Question: Do you know a wine made out of an identical grape as Chardonnay but going by a different name?
Answer: Yes a few including my fav “Beaunois” for Chardonnay in Chablis. However believe the one you are searching for is “Morillon”. It is the local name in Styria for Chardonnay. Lots of regional ones there including “Muschelkalk”. Check some top producers out and let us know what you think.
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The Vancouver Branch of The International Wine & Food Society held their insightful Annual Wine Tour of the Okanagan organized superbly by knowledgeable member Larry Burr for three full days May 27-29, 2022. This time the focus was on Similkameen & South Okanagan limited to 16 enthusiastic members in a Top Cat Tours van, staying at Watermark Resort, and visiting 12 key wineries. Lots of educational benefits plus camaraderie fun with a few highlights noted from your scribe as follows:
DAY 1: The Similkameen Valley in Southern BC west of Osoyoos has hot dry very windy conditions at higher altitude (400-480 metres) with 633+ acres planted by 15 wineries (6% BC vineyard acreage). Steep mountain walls background vineyards with diverse soils ranging from rich sandy loam to gravel & large granite rocks. Also growing there lots of fruits and vegetables with two towns of Keremeos named “Fruit Stand Capital of Canada” and Cawston the “Organic Farming Capital of Canada.” We visited four wineries:
1. VANESSA VINEYARD: Legendary winemaker Howard Soon (only 2 wineries over 42 year of experience) with Kristi Short Tasting Room Manager showed us their “carved from stone, fueled by sun, a vineyard like no other” in a wind tunnel with rows of rocks everywhere advising that “sometimes a bear comes down the steep hill to enjoy their juicy Syrah grapes”.
Sampled 5 wines:
(a) 2021 V Series: new white blend 12 abv 70% Semillon & 30% Riesling shows interesting ripe smooth textures;
(b) 2021 Rose: 2/3 Syrah & 1/3 Merlot very pale pink but dry and acid balanced with only 250 cases at 14.1 abv;
(c) 2018 Syrah: First of three powerful reds all from 100% Estate grown fruit and all long aging in American & French oak. 27 barrels (co-fermented with Viognier) 20 months open spicy enticing aromas. Full peppery statement 15.2 abv;
(d) 2018 Right Bank: Merlot-dominant 24 barrels served decanted displaying unique “sagebrush” terroir 15 abv;
(e) 2018 Meritage: Cabernet-dominant 31 barrels Big rich and loaded but needs time. Getting up there at 15.6 abv
2. OROFINO VINEYARDS: Owners John & Virginia Weber are “Purveyors of Premium Wine” focusing on wines from vineyard specific sites to show the terroir with all reds unfiltered and unfined.
(a) 2021 Rose: Utilizes 12 hour skin contact on Cab Franc. Stylish. The heat dome of 2021 has worked well in ripening their fruit.
(b) 2020 Home Vineyard Pinot Noir has substance “very waxy spicy riper notes” using 5 clones. John says the 2020 reds were cooler than 2019 but with more aromatics.
(c) 2020 Syrah has “white pepper” and they have planted 6 more acres at the top of Passion Pit (as no longer have access to Scout vineyard fruit).
(d) Riesling – Like their direction here with 3 distinct ones produced from dry typical “zippy” Clone 239, richer sweeter balanced old vines, and Clone 21B Weis Clone from Mosel. Check out their Rieslings!
LUNCH AT ROW FOURTEEN RESTAURANT AT KLIPPERS: Admire everything about this outstanding place. Even a welcoming turban squash at reception desk. Killer food prepared by talented Chef Derek Gray and awesome brigade. Look at the radishes with honey; mushroom broth, dashi & leek oil; freshly baked hot whole wheat farmer’s bread with smoked butter sea salt & black pepper; fresh asparagus leek sabayon parsley garlic cheese pangrattato; oyster mushroom frittata, and potato gnocchi. Added treat was tasting of 5 Untangled Craft Ciders:
(a) Newton – Mostly dry Spartan Apples with a touch of strawberry
(b) Tangled – Off dry apple
(c) Blue Pear – Semi-sweet blueberry, pear & apple
(d) Black Plum Basil – Off dry apple, plum, & basil
(e) Lavender – Brand new about to be released. Unbelievably fragrant with apple sauce jumping out of the glass. My fav.
3. CLOS DU SOLEIL: Bordeaux-inspired winery under winemaker & managing director Michael Clark. Impressive selection of 11 wines on their chart as shown. 2020 Capella Classy blend of 77 SB 7 23 Semillon Wild ferment in Stainless & 500 litre puncheons 9 months lees with batonnage 100% malo gives rich creamy textured wine Feature tasting compared two vintages of their Signature blend:
2019: 42 Merlot, 31 CS, 13 Malbec, 10 CF, 4 PV Young vibrant quality with all 5 Bordeaux grapes. Patience.
2013: 51 Merlot, 34 CS, 2 Malbec, 11 CF, 2 PV Evolving well with clean cool balanced velvety textures. Well done. Expecting 2021 to be their highest yielding total crop ever.
4. CORCELETTES ESTATE WINERY: Managing Partners Charlie & Jesce Baessler on the old Herder site since 2013 are showing fantastic abilities as quality conscientious growers selecting the right sites on stemwinder soils to grow the right varieties there. Amazing vineyard specialists!
(a) 2020 Chardonnay 13.5 French oak 11 barrels (45% new) fermented sure lie batonnage with harvest by hand, unfined unfiltered. Advise “approachable now on release or cellar 2-8 years” Wide window.
(b) 2021 Rose 12.5 70 Pinot Noir & 30 Syrah Freshness floral raspberry & grapefruit.
(c) 2019 Syrah 13.5 $32.90 680 cases Two Estate soils including Rocky Ridge sandy loam in 90% French & 10 American for 16 months, Will co-ferment Viognier for even deeper colour starting in 2020.
(d) 2020 Pinot Noir Reserve 14 (Micro Lot Series) $39.90 110 cases Elegant earthy stylish all 115 clone “Passion, Precision, Purpose”
(e) 2019 Talus Red 14.5 $51.90 using “Talus slides of mixed earth and broken stone” blending 45 Merlot, 28 Cab Franc, 23 Cab Sauv 4 Malbec, and 2 Petit Verdot (back label adds up to 102% but probably rounding up).
DINNER AT 15 PARK BISTRO WATERMARK: Organizer Larry cleverly arranged for us to pre-order our meals which worked efficiently. Also compliments to Larry on letting each guest order his or her own choice for wine by the glass. Smart idea allowing you to get what you actually wanted to pair with your course. The food was a delightful surprise highlighted by an artistic hummus with naan starter & Yarrow Farms duck breast, and Roberto’s freshly made fruit gelato and sorbetto.
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Question: What are your early reactions to the 2021 Rosés from British Columbia?
Answer: Yes, lots of British Columbia 2021 white & rosé wines are being released currently. Summer heat dome & smoke from forest fires are a concern on everyone’s mind for the resulting wines. Blue Mountain Winery won’t release anything from their 2021 vintage. Generally, though the Rosés are showing good balance and rather charming fruit. Lots of intensive exposure and tastings for your scribe this month at Top Drop (May 10-11), @WineBCdotcom Media Preview (May 17), 43rd Annual @VanWineFest (May 19-21), and IWFS Vancouver Branch Wine Tour Similkameen & South Okanagan (May 27-29). My main early reaction is how surprising it is that so many different grapes are being utilized in the production of the 2021 Rosés. Some recent 2021 examples tasted:
SEVEN STONES Pebble Beach Rose Similkameen: 100% Pinot Noir
VANESSA Similkameen: 2/3 Syrah & 1/3 Merlot at 14.1 abv
OROFINO Similkameen: Cabernet Franc
CLOS DU SOLEIL Similkameen: Malbec (before used Cab Sauv)
CORCELETTES Similkameen: 70% Pinot Noir & 30% Syrah
BARTIER Osoyoos: 41 Gewurz, 30 Chardonnay, 25 Pinot Gris, 4 Syrah
CULMINA Golden Mile Bench: 66 Malbec, 34 Merlot
LE VIEUX PIN Black Sage: Mainly Pinot Noir (splash of Syrah)
MOON CURSER HEIST Osoyoos: 90 Syrah (10 Malbec & Nebbiolo)
SANDHILL Estate Vineyard Block C9: 100% Sangiovese (intense lower vine yields fresh holding acidity well for a hotter year)
So many different choices of grape varieties! What is your preference?
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