IWFS Blog - The International Wine and Food Society

2009 TOP BORDEAUX IMPRESSIVE AT AGE 15

The 2009 Bordeaux were released with great fanfare as an outstanding vintage because of record sunlight hours resulting in grapes of high sugar ripeness. The resulting expensive at the time wines generally showed this open forwardly extra ripe opulent style with easier lower acidity levels and supple tannins. They continue to carry this reputation which was reinforced by the also excellent twin but more classic 2010. The very attractive voluptuous seductive early appreciation of 2009 Bordeaux is key. How are they developing in bottle?

Jane Anson has just released on her site some insightful assessments on 2009 & 2010. Vinous (Neal Martin) did a thorough review at 10 years and has a tasting of 2009 set in Miami on November 23. Lots of interest in these.
Our Vancouver Group of Eight held their 124th dinner event at Blue Water Cafe on October 8 tasting nine top 2009 Bordeaux. Some impressions:

Liked the mature creamy toasty fruit and honey in this bubbles of 1990 BOLLINGER GRANDE ANNEE BRUT CHAMPAGNE with a Bagel Lobster starter. This quality Champagne is only produced in exceptional vintages from Grand & Premier vineyards of Pinot Noir & Chardonnay with first fermentation in oak casks with a minimum aging on lees of 5 years.

2009 CHATEAU LE GAY Pomerol 90% Merlot & 10% Cab Franc

Open plummy sweet fruit that is deep and intense and very Merlot ripe. Softer and less concentrated from the lower yields (25hl/ha) than expected. Prefer to see more definition. Approachable. Easy drinking now.

2009 CHATEAU MALESCOT ST. EXUPERY Margaux 51CS 35M 8CF 4PV

Good depth of colour. More reluctant aromas. Smooth ripe attractive style showing the vintage more than the AC. Enjoyed recently the juicy cherries and acidity of the 2006. Value property.

2009 PAVILLON ROUGE DU CHATEAU MARGAUX 67CS 29M 4PV

Fragrant with more Cab Sauv. A bit herbaceous with concentrated tannins from 14% added press wine. Good depth (first year of third wine “Margaux”) for a second wine of excellent balance with charm and some delicacy. Prefer complexity of 2000.

2009 CHATEAU PALMER Margaux 52M 41CS 7PV

Darkest of First Flight. Best textures and structure. Loads of big fruit and classy 60% new oak. Youthful exuberance improved in the glass with airing. Bigger more alcohol but not as elegant as 1989 or other worldly 1961 (and 1966). Should develop well. Delicious with an outstanding duck tortellini dish.

2009 CHATEAU HAUT-BAILLY Pessac-Leognan 60CS 37M 3CF

Really admire the elegance, finesse, and balance here. Outstanding terroir of Pessac-Leognan really shines through helped by the riper vintage. A new book of their 25 years: 1998-2023 “Haut-Bailly On The Move” captures well the mission statement of Robert Wilmers & Veronique Sanders. Quote Jean Sanders: “Nothing to excess, Balance” and Gabriel Vialard Technical Director on the style: “The ideal, perfect balance between power, freshness, and softness, without any aggressiveness with a silky smooth texture.” A healthy restraint seeking true harmony is certainly accomplished here (and in the more classic 2010).

2009 CHATEAU DUHART-MILON Pauillac 63 CS 37M

Made one of the best 2003s and improved again here. Pauillac classic definition with black currant/cassis notes. Lovely forward accessibility with no rush. Improving property to watch of still good value.

2009 CHATEAU GRUAUD LAROSE Saint-Julien 68 CS 32M

Your scribe is fortunate to drink frequently the remarkable 1982 & 1986 and memories of that 1961. Pleased to see this property returning to form with power in almost a Pauillac concentration in 2009. This will age well as lots of clean fruit and structure to develop.

2009 CHATEAU DUCRU-BEAUCAILLOU Saint-Julien 85CS 15M

Harvest September 23-October 9. Big fruit and noticeable oak. Powerful fresh St. Julien statement too. Noticeable cloves and sage. Bruno Borie and team working the excellent terroir to best advantage. Bigger spicier more refined wine than elegant lighter exquisite 1970 enjoyed at 50 years.

2009 CHATEAU MONTROSE Saint-Estephe 65CS 29M 5CF 1PV

Very dark and concentrated with big impressive fruit but not the usual strong tannins. A new fresh almost Pessac-like style not picked too late by Jean Bernard Delmas? Thought I knew this terroir from monitoring the 1990 but don’t recognize it here. Michael Broadbent in Wine Tasting describes St. Estephe as follows: “Deep colour; stark raw fruity nose, cabernet less marked; full, firm tannic. Slow developing. Solid wines from heavier clay soil.” That was the old style St. Estephe (first published in 1968) and not the new one that is evolving. An outstanding wine nonetheless that will age well.

2005 CHATEAU COUTET Sauternes-Barsac

Finished up with this Barsac and the developing 2009s airing in the glass with a unique baked camembert with candied pecans. Seems bigger sweeter and more powerful than many Coutets and pairs nicely with the honey & nuts.

Summary: These top 2009 Bordeaux are developing very well with a seductive voluptuous nature plus buckets of ripe fruit still remaining to continue on a lovely drinking plateau for some time into the future. Impressed.

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Ask Sid: Which wines show “Cassis” notes?

Question: Which wines may show notes of cassis?

Answer: Cassis is an appropriate descriptor for many red wines that show concentrated creme de cassis liqueur of black currants fruit – or even perhaps like ripe blackberries. You usually can find good examples showing that unique intense “cassis” character in top wines of best vintages from St. Julien and Pauillac. You will find cassis prominently displayed in 2010 Chateau Leoville Poyferre among others.

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BURGUNDY DINNER FEATURES TOP VINTAGES 2005, 2009, 2010, 2014, & 2015

The Confrerie des Chevaliers du Tastevin held their annual Vancouver Induction dinner on October 1, 2024 at Five Sails restaurant. Dr. Christine Collinson is the incoming Grande Senechale succeeding George Laverock. Colourful ceremony with special visiting guests Dr. Brendan and Christine Quinn Grand Pilier General from Ottawa presiding.

The evening started off well with Vazart-Coquart Champagne Blanc de Blancs Reserve Grand Cru (mainly 2017 plus reserves going back to 1982 from their Reserve Perpetuelle) showing the classy terroir of Chouilly chardonnay fruit paired with local Kisu plump oysters and remarkably delicious arancini of Dungeness Crab with Yuzu.

The whites spotlighted an educational focus on Chablis Premier Cru with two stellar vintages of intense minerally 2010 and bright acidity 2014. All three 2010 were from the ancient estate of Domaine Daniel-Etienne Defaix using batonnage (stirring settled lees back into the wine) methods for creamy balance. The 2014 was Domaine Daniel Dampt showing Les Vaillons to compare this same vineyard with a 2010. Cote de Lechet is grown on a very steep slope of the Left Bank of the River Serein with richer mature styling while Les Lys lighter but much fresher and lively. The 2010 Vaillon was spicier with the 2014 more vibrant. These Kimmeridgien marl top vintages paired well with the first two seafood courses.

An old fav organic Domaine Pavelot (always recommending their La Dominode here the 2010 on January 4, 2016) of Jean-Marc et Hugues in Savigny-Les-Beaune Aux Guettes of classic 2005 and warmer riper 2009 quite stony with a lot of clay vineyard at 300 metres with 12 months en barrique (25% new). The 2005 was quite a bit lighter bodied having less mineral fruit left than the young firm impressive rich full bodied 2009. Both perfectly matched to the innovative duck course.
A big step up to the Grand Cru complexity level with two Cortons paired with lamb. The classic vintage 2010 from top producer Lucien Le Moine with Renardes has a beautiful ripe cherries nose and outstanding depth of flavours that opened more with swirling and airing. Would have benefited by decanting- as all LLM deserve. Renardes often has some Petrichor notes (defined here on Ask Sid May 12, 2021) of earthy rain on gardens or drier soils but bigger intense fruit hides any in 2010. The younger important cellaring 2015 Vintage of Rognet is east and lower down from Renardes in Ladoix with the top third allowing white Corton-Charlemagne (Faiveley). The producer improving Domaine Michel Mallard has the largest vineyard holding here and is using 50% whole clusters in the fermentation with more new oak. One to watch.

Nice treat to check out how these wines from only outstanding vintages are developing!

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Ask Sid: Are there DOCG wines in Sardinia?

Question: Are there DOCG wines in Sardinia?

Answer: Yes there is only one DOCG wine in Sardinia the vibrant acid and citric flavours white Vermentino di Gallura. There many other DOC & IGT as well that include the main grape varieties of Vermentino and red Cannonau di Sardegna.

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1989 BORDEAUX STILL ON AN ENJOYABLE DRINKING PLATEAU AT 35

Your scribe has been closely monitoring the 1989 Bordeaux wines since the early days in barrel. Always enjoyed their rich opulent character with higher pHs but lower acidities and silky tannins that made them accessible right out of the gate. Fortunate to have purchased bottles of a couple of the great aging superstars from Pessac-Leognan being Haut-Brion & La Mission Haut-Brion. The 1989s generally have developed well in bottle and have been written up on this Blog several times before on February 24, 2014 at 25 here, February 22, 2016 compared to 1990 here, and September 30, 2019 at 30 here.

On September 24, 2024 the Vancouver Branch of Commanderie de Bordeaux held a dinner-tasting at Blue Water Cafe of some 1989 Bordeaux at 35 years of age. Unfortunately, your scribe missed the event being at some conflicting wine & food events in Nantucket and Boston. However, several members of our Group of Eight (Ian Mottershead, David Kester, Nick Wright, Larry Burr, and Alvin Nirenberg) attended and kindly sent me emails on their impressions so I have inserted some quotes from them in this update.

Started with two aged white Bordeaux:

2014 CHATEAU LA GARDE BLANC: Old Eschenauer exclusive and since 1990 with Dourthe of mostly 85% Sauvignon Blanc floral and 15% Semillon roundness combining for light refreshing flavours at 13 abv

2015 CHATEAU DE FIEUZAL BLANC: Richer more concentrated vintage than 2014 plus more complexity from higher blend of Semillon at 45% with SB 55% but also at 13 abv. Written up on August 8, 2022 here.

First flight of reds:

1989 CHATEAU L’ARROSEE: Old fav of your scribe referred to in Ask Sid feature on April 10, 2024 here. David Kester held a blind tasting vertical of this St. Emilion property in 2011. Nick Wright found “Punching well above its weight class, superb value, with higher Cab content giving it a slightly leaner/tighter style, a lovely mix of Right & Left Bank characteristics.”

1989 CHATEAU LA CONSEILLANTE: Pomerol 80 Merlot & 20 Cab Franc full bodied concentration in this 1989 vintage. Divided opinions as some loved it while others didn’t. Larry Burr thought “Opening beautifully into ripe dark fruits, a bit of coffee, and Best of the Flight.” Nick said: “Unique intensity of black fruits, cedar, and tobacco on the nose with a superb long finish, very captivating and his Wine Of The Night!” The 1982 tasted recently is also outstanding (as is 1990).

1989 CHATEAU LA FLEUR DE GAY: Another Pomerol of 100% old vines Merlot. Highly rated early on by Parker but found one dimensional by me back in 2014 tasting referred to above and this time shows “stewed” by Ian Mottershead and “slightly muddy, ordinary, undistinguised” by Larry. Lowest rated of the nine 1989 wines.

1989 CHATEAU CHEVAL BLANC: Top St. Emilion property with unique blend of about 60 Cab Franc & 40 Merlot. Disappointing again with “bottle variation rampant” by David and Larry “old muted no complexity”, Ian had to “coax a modest nose” and Nick “not as intense as La Conseillante”. Our outstanding CBx Cellarmaster Alvin Nirenberg has organized a tasting for next year of 1990s at 35 and this twin vintage to 1989 should be singing brilliantly for Cheval Blanc.

Second flight: All agreed that this was a better wonderful flight.

1989 CHATEAU PALMER: Glorious Margaux. One bottle was corked but others showed delicious and seductive as usual. Tried 1989 & 1983 together last year and both were outstanding. Nick said: “Very classy classic beautifully crafted of medium body stylish lovely balance.” Ian found “in good shape” and David’s “favourite bouquet of all”.

1989 CHATEAU LEOVILLE LAS CASES: St. Julien star but stylish lighter elegance – not the depth of 1990 and other top vintages. Both Alvin & Larry found an “iron” element more like “Leoville Barton”. Still has a lot of grace but 3 great wines in second flight outshone this vintage.

1989 CHATEAU LYNCH-BAGES: First of two finishing Pauillacs. “Great year for L-B” says Ian. Round powerful minty sweet cedary young fruit with finesse on previous tries. Shows that terroir of “intense black currants, long complex finish still with good acidity and balance” says Nick. Larry found “dense entry full body long finish – rich and young.” Probably continue to develop greatness.

1989 CHATEAU MOUTON ROTHSCHILD: First Growth is better than in 1990 and has been surprising with improvement in bottle. Blend of 78CS/14CF/8M using heavily toasted barrels and artsy label of Georg Baselitz. Nick’s second wine of the night “intense bouquet of cassis and mint”. Both David “superior” and Alvin “favourite” preferred. Ian thought “a step up from L-B with a little more finesse, exoticism, and something special – no rush.” Larry said “lighter, mature, elegant compared to bigger young rich L-B.”

1989 CHATEAU D’YQUEM: Classy Sauternes in middle of the trilogy of acidity balance 1988 and powerful 1990. Rich and complex. Larry “mid-gold colour and lucious”. Ian: “excellent but not WOTN in tough competition but the creme brulee is very much to my taste.”

What an enchanting evening with an interesting 1989 horizontal. Everyone over the moon about Blue Water’s quality menu and perfect wine matching.

Wish I had been there!