Ask Sid: Is Les Vignerons de Buzet Blanc safe to drink?

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Question: Is Les Vignerons de Buzet White Wine from 1998 safe to drink?

Answer: Old wine can deteriorate by oxidation plus losing the attractive young grape fruit expression – especially wines produced for earlier consumption. However, generally very old wines are still safe to drink though may be turning to vinegar. If the wine was unclean to begin with it could allow more spoilage due to microbes but unlikely and you can usually spot this when you open the bottle. Your wine from the highly regarded Cooperative of Gascogne in SouthWest France I believe is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc & Semillon. Bottle variation after 25 years is inevitable but you may be in for a delightful rich surprise from the age worthy Semillon component. But if not enough fresh fruit left for you then just make a Kir by adding some creme de cassis or other fruit liqueur. Enjoy.


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SIMON FAMILY ESTATE: A NEW TOP QUALITY NAPA VALLEY CULT WINERY

Surprised and delighted to be invited by experienced Brendan Jones of The Cachet Collection wine agency to a tasting/lunch on November 8 at the popular Nightingale restaurant in Vancouver featuring Simon Family Estate wines. Our small group table adjoining the kitchen included Brendan, Chris Rielly Wine Director Hawksworth Restaurant Group, proprietor Sam Simon, son Michael Simon, and Josh Kretchmer Director of National & Private Client Sales. Pleased to see such a high powered delegation attending in our Canadian market for top quality Napa Valley cult wines. Thank you.

A new Estate with first releases in 2019 but a member of The Napa Valley Reserve since 2003 and influenced and encouraged by icon Bill Harlan to start their own label. Interesting story of how Sam Simon attracted winemaker Maayan Koschitzky to form a dynamic wine team reported here in the Robb Report on March 7, 2022 and in Forbes on November 30, 2022 here. They now have a tasting room by appointment (tel: 707-222-6088) in downtown Napa at 1040 Main Street. Impressed by how wine lover collector Sam Simon brought two white wines as an aperitif not from the winery but from his own private cellar:

2023 ROSSJ-BASS GAJA Langhe white showing the Chardonnay grape in a fragrant floral Piedmont style.

2020 Y – YGREC Bordeaux Blanc is a vibrant dry Sauternes from Chateau dYquem. Sam stated it was an inspiration for his own Sauvignon Blanc. Sam strongly feels you need both “passion & patience” to produce great wine! Our tasting was well orchestrated and matched with some superb dishes from the diverse excellent Nightingale menu (highly recommended). Some brief impressions on the wines:

2021 GOLDEN ORE SAUVIGNON BLANC Oakville Napa Valley: Harvested early August 20 at 3.13pH & 7.7 TA aged 18 months in French oak (30% new) at 14 abv producing only 200 cases. It has balance, oak, and weight from lees aging but 100% SB from quite a different terroir than the Ygrec inspiration – which also uses 20-25% Semillon in their blend.

2023 TIGRESS ROSE OF GRENACHE Rutherford Napa Valley: Fresh bright and lively all stainless in the Provenance style with 6 1/2 hours skin contact + 4 months lees was harvested September 22 at 3.3pH & 5.9TA at 12.5 abv producing only 200 cases. The refreshing fav and inspiration of Sams wife Nada Simon.

2021 PETER DOUBLE BLESSINGS CABERNET FRANC & CABERNET SAUVIGNON: First of two very different double blessings of only 90 cases each to honor the distinct personalities of twin sons Peter & Michael. The wines highlight these characteristics according to Michael with Peter a day person, light heated, and open with a sense of humour while his is a night owl, less open, more serious. This has warmer Oakville fruit with 57% Cab Franc (hoping to reach 75% next year) and 43% Cab Sauv from the Tench Family Vineyard with a lighter rim and elegant floral herbal signature at 14.8 abv in a popular easier style.

2021 MICHAEL DOUBLE BLESSINGS CABERNET SAUVIGNON: Mainly Yountville Sleeping Lady vineyard plus Coombsville Rocca Collinetta vineyard with 22 months in French oak (80% new) same as Peters. Similar stats to Peter but it is darker, more energy structured fruit with riper tannins at 14.9 abv. Needs some bottle aging.

2021 SIMON NAPA VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON: Second vintage of multi vineyard sites with a little less new oak (70%) from a variety of Coopers but with 2% Cab Franc at 14.8 abv producing 700 cases. Lots of ripe fruit but a lovely balanced elegance to it. Less vineyard defined but captures the Napa style of Cabernet Sauvignon very well in this textbook vintage of smaller berries and lower yields. Will be more Single Vineyard programs released or 2022.

2021 SIMON FAMILY ESTATE RESERVE CABERNET SAUVIGNON: Smart use of three renowned vineyards of Vine Hill Ranch, Tench, and Collinetta does impress with only 250 cases at 14.9 abv. Lauded with some very high scores and even a perfect 100 from Decanter a stellar wine. Like the powerful concentrated intensity of the ripe select fruit which doesnt seem hot so balanced by the elegance. Captured some wonderful flavours and textures with refinement in this vintage. Obviously it will age a long time from this super vintage.

They are looking for more top quality vineyard sites to supply best grapes and considering a future Sparkling wine in the portfolio. Your scribe stated that if Robert Mondavi was here he would have expected some of the best Cab Franc to go into the Reserve for more complexity. Josh agreed and commented that they will be adding some Cab Franc into the Reserve wine in 2023. I also said the bottle weights were way too heavy for the growing number of sustainable environment supporters. They got excited about that question and agreed with me so are taking steps to correct the issue. Bottles will continue to weigh less (10% in 2022) and are going away completely from styrofoam and foils by instead using all disposable green felt wrap. Astute and so aware. Admire their approach to everything that goes into producing a fine wine.

Liked how they modestly stated they still are learning from the previous vintages experienced: the surprising heat and fires of 2017, the smoke taint problems of 2020, the key of watering the vines in the best places at the right time and canopy management in 2021, and dealing with the shutting down of the vines from extremely high temperatures of 100-100+F in 2023.

The best is yet to come!


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Ask Sid: What are the key grapes for Armenian wine?

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Question: What are the key grapes used in the production of Armenian wines?

Answer: Armenia, possibly the birthplace of ancient wine making, has some interesting unique indigenous late ripening grape varieties. Your scribe believes the future is bright for more Armenian wines of good value appearing in the world marketplace. The main white is VOSKEHAT “golden berry” that is being touted as the new Chenin Blanc. The red star is the juicy, intense ARENI NOIR that has some characteristics similar to Pinot Noir & Sangiovese. There is a recent detailed article by Kate Dingwall in Wine Enthusiast on the main 9 grapes of Armenian wine linked here. Suggest checking some of them out.


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ICONIC WINERIES OF BRITISH COLUMBIA LIVE UP TO CONFIDENT NAME WITH OUTSTANDING CLASSY TRADE EVENT

As you know these are challenging times for the wineries of British Columbia (winebc. com). There is way less wine produced from the short crops of 2023 (December 2022 cold snap) and 2024 (January 2024 freeze) and fewer Okanagan wine tasting events being held. Accordingly it was with enthusiasm to receive an invite and to attend a Media/Trade Holiday Preview Reception on the afternoon of USA Election Day November 5 at The Kent in Vancouver. It was very well organized by Laura Serena and Morgan Sommerville of Serena PR with Kaylyn Storey, Director of Public Relations for Mark Anthony Group and the Iconic Wineries of BC. Special kudos to owner Anthony von Mandl for his astute foresight and amazing investment in these seven iconic wineries. A brief summary of this classy event:

MISSION HILL FAMILY ESTATE This architectural wonder by Tom Kundig on Boucherie Mountain is an icon with legendary Summer Concerts with wines now using only Estate vineyards certified organic. They celebrated in 2022 for 25 years of their Oculus top red wine. Executive Chef Patrick Gayler was present preparing an excellent Italian Pumpkin & Chestnut Gnocchi (light and delicate) with Brussels Sprout & Pecorino. Designed to pair with 2022 Jagged Rock Chardonnay. What a treat.

CEDARCREEK ESTATE WINERY Pleased to see some 2023 whites with a fresh Pinot Gris Platinum from the South Kelowna Slopes. Always impressed with their Aspect (late daylight sun exposure on Upper Slopes of Home Block Vineyard planted in 1991) Block 4 Pinot Noir. Executive Chef Neil Taylor from the Home Block Restaurant showed a delicious Seared Scallop, horseradish creme fraiche, brassicas, pancetta & red wine dish that matched so perfectly with their 2022 East Kelowna Slopes Pinot Noir.

MARTIN’S LANE WINERY Big fan of what winemaker Shane Munn is accomplishing here with Riesling and Pinot Noir. 2023 Riesling Naramata Ranch Vineyards harvested on October 12 from their South facing vineyard planted in 1976 at 470m is gently handled with gravity at 12.4 abv. My fav is a silky 2022 Pinot Noir Naramata Ranch Vineyard at 49.67 latitude of Clones 667, 943, and Pommard harvested October 1-17 at elevation 410-490m East/South-East aspect at 13 abv. Appreciated my discussions with knowledgeable Ella Alfonso who most wisely decanted this young red to help open it up and show to best advantage. We also tried together the 2020 from their Artisan Wine Shop display (Joe Roubini Retail Manager) with retail outlets at Lonsdale Quay Market in North Vancouver and downtown Victoria. However this 2020 (only 667 & 943 – no Pommard) picked October 1-10 at only 12.3 abv not decanted was initially quite restrained, tight and a lot of reduction that needed more air.

CHECKMATE ARTISANAL WINERY Another outstanding winery that is spotlighting the best of Chardonnay & Merlot. Spencer Kelly has returned home to the Okanagan taking over from winemaker Philip McGahan. Enjoyed talking with worldly James Berti Guest Experience Manager in detail about the evolution of the winery and the current wines. The Fool’s Mate Chardonnays are showing more fresh vibrancy and depth of flavours and the Merlot Opening Gambit 2020 has riper forward fruit better capturing the varietal definition but a big 14.7 abv.

LIQUIDITY WINES This winery is from Okanagan Falls near McIntyre Bluff, Vaseux Lake & Skaha Lake with a distinct terroir. A wonderful dining experience by Chef Josh Mueller matching the wines. He showed us a lightly smoked Ahi Tuna with firm skinned Sieglinde potato & pink peppercorn salad with cranberry & lettuce cream with the 2023 Estate Rose of Pinot Noir. To organize these three talented chefs at this wine tasting event was truly amazing!

RED BARN AT JAGGED ROCK Newer colourful winery producing unique wines from Jagged Rock Vineyard by winemaker Kaylee Barss including the 2022 Discordian dry white blend of co-fermented 52% rich Chardonnay & 48% fresh Sauvignon Blanc and aged in concrete for vibrant styling. Helpful Guest Experience Manager Valerio Mariani assisted with insightful information.

ROAD 13 VINEYARDS Most southern winery in the Icon group and a wonderful signature of “all about the Dirt. ” Producing some high powered reds from Cab Sauv, Malbec, and Syrah plus top blend of Fifth Element. Big admirer of their old vines Chenin Blanc planted in 1968 with exciting ageable Sparkling. Check this out.

Seven very different special wineries that live up to their bullish “ICONIC” name. Impressive.


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Ask Sid: What is the note “contains sulphites” on my wine bottle?

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Question: I have noticed on quite a few on my wine bottles the words “Contains Sulphites”. Would you please provide me with a simple explanation.

Answer: Yes, it is a warning for those that are allergic to sulphites. Most wines have naturally occurring sulphites in very low amounts produced during the wine making process. However, some wines during production have extra amounts added (more in sweet wines than dry reds) to help avoid particularly bacteria and oxidation issues. Sulphites are also added to dry fruits and some other products as well. Many believe that an allergic reaction is less common than generally thought. Your scribe is in favour of more ingredient labelling (over and above contains sulphites) so that consumers can know the amount of sulphites used plus colouring, sugar, and lots of other important hidden additives.


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