Archive for July, 2022

Question: Why is there not more emphasis on regenerative vineyards?

Answer: Good point. I believe there is starting to be a better focus on regenerative farming in the vineyards. For a while the buzz words have included mainly biodynamic, organic and sustainable. However, regeneration should become a hotter item during this decade with continuing climate change. You are hearing more about the increased use of leaf canopy, cover crops, rotation of different plants, and even unplanted fallow ground to rest and rejuvenate the soil. The need for “healthy” soils with better water retention are becoming important factors for producing the best quality grapes. Jancis Robinson just posted an interesting article about farming systems on her website dated July 12, 2022. Looks like we will be hearing a lot more about regenerative farming in the near future.

An educational full week of wine updates in Sonoma last month brought lots of interesting experiences. Your scribe & wife Joan together with long time IWFS Marin County member Michael Menke enjoyed some insightful winery visits with excellent food – especially dinner twice at John Ash. It turned out to be a combination of both the new and the old. Among my new ones were great value for quality WALTER HANSEL family Chardonnay & Pinot Noir in the Russian River Valley, CARLISLE in Windsor for old-vine Zin & red Rhone varieties (check out their extensive drinkability chart on-line), and SOJOURN CELLARS (Winemaker Erich Bradley) tasting salon right in the town of Sonoma. Re-visits included classy WILLIAMS SEYLEM modernized from the early days of Burt & Ed’s first pinot noir in 1981 but still no sign just 7227 (Westside Road), SONOMA-CUTRER extensive tasting with Winemaking Director Mick Schroeter celebrating 40 years from 1981 remembering Brice Jones & Bill Bonetti, and HANZELL VINEYARDS still isolated on the Mayacamas mountain range overlooking SW Sonoma Valley & San Pablo Bay.

This last mentioned HANZELL brought back for me a load of fond nostalgic memories from the seventies onward. Founded in 1953 by wife HANa & Ambassador James D ZELLeerbach and owned by the de Brye family since 1975. First vintage was 1957 under iconic winemaker Brad Webb (also a Founder of Freemark Abbey in 1967) and followed in 1973 by Bob Sessions who championed 28 straight vintages till 2001. Your scribe was so impressed when first meeting Brad in the seventies and his most thoughtful work with chardonnay. In the early days he was trying to replicate Burgundy using various techniques and small French oak casks. Only Martin Ray & Stony Hill were at this level way back then followed by Chalone. Subsequent visits to the winery in the late seventies with Bob Sessions confirmed this with a really superb 1978 chardonnay & surprisingly complex aging pinot noirs from 1970, 1971, and 1972. Decades later issues with TCA from 2001 complicated matters and a long renewal was required but found the newer wines were less elegant and a bit strong and alcoholic for my palate. Now on this long overdue winery return visit I was surprised plus re-energized by what I discovered. Still a long difficult road up to the winery but definitely worth the detour. Almost the same route as it was 50+ years ago isolated but now a perfect conversion to biodynamics certified in 2021 that works with no neighbours interfering. Shown around by Andrew checking out the clones and the vineyards. Like how the 46 acres planted (4 back to 1953) out of the 200 acre Estate are laid out as separate vineyard blocks some on Raynor-Montara soil (Day is 4 1/2 acres all Chardonnay first planted 1972-1998) and others on Red Hills Volcanic (De Brye hill warmer than both cooler Sessions pinot & Ramos chardonnay blocks). Lots of valuable time spent with conscientious winemaker Jason Jardine (since 2014) who is on the right track and impressed with what he is accomplishing at Hanzell. He has a good focus on the soils and the importance of composts and “fungal profile”. Tried several wines that showed excellent potential:

–HANZELL CHARDONNAY SEBELLA Winemaker’s Selection 2020 $58: Second label started in 2009 primarily from the Zellerbach Vineyard is fermented in Stainless Steel and aged in neutral French oak for earlier fresh bright accessibility.

–HANZELL CHARDONNAY Sonoma Valley 2019 $78: Best Chardonnay grapes picked end of August/early September from vines averaging 42 year from 32 acres planted 1953-2008 at higher elevation 415-810 feet using clones 92% Hanzell Heritage & 8% Experimental on Rootstocks 94% St. George & 6% Experimental. Shows well and ageable with subtle styling and finishing lift from good acidity at only 13.9 abv fermented in 73% Stainless Steel & 27% New Barrels aged 14 months in both SS & French oak (11 coopers featuring Francois Freres).

–HANZELL PINOT NOIR Sonoma Valley 2019 $98: From 12 acres planted 1953-1999 averaging 26 years vine age fermented 31% whole cluster and aged 10 months in 28% new French oak. Interesting Experimental work on both clones (54%) & rootstock (64%) with remaining 46% Hanzell Heritage & 36% St. George. Recently pinot noir fruit is ripening earlier but they do try to wait for more maturity of the wood & most importantly the increasing use of stems which Jason feels integrates the tannins better. Lovely style with lower alcohol plus excellent juicy mineral earthy fruit statement. Admire the gentler tannins structure but still needs more time to round out and develop.

–HANZELL FARM THE SESSIONS SELECTION PINOT NOIR 2020: Unique 100% Whole Cluster Sessions Block aged 10 months in 1/3 French oak with only 150 cases produced.

–HANZELL PINOT NOIR AMBASSADOR’S 1953 VINEYARD 2020 $130: Historic Block in tribute to the Ambassador planted in 1953 with the Mt. Eden Clone on St. George rootstock. Wonderful depth and will age forever.

Recommend you check out some of these exciting quality new Hanzell Vineyards Chardonnay & Pinot Noirs!

Question: What are the differences between Ridge Zinfandel wines from Geyserville & Lytton Springs?

Answer: Timely question for your scribe who visited Ridge Vineyards at Lytton Springs just north of Healdsburg California again last month. There are probably more similarities than differences. Both are 100+ year old vineyards providing field blends for some super classic Zins. IMHO some of the main differences would include these notes:

GEYSERVILLE: Tasted Ridge 2020 (55th consecutive vintage) of Zin, Carignane, Petite Sirah, Alicante Bouschet, and Mataro interplanted field blend of 69/20/8/2/1 fermented together at 14.1 abv. The vines are 130+ years old planted on the valley floor with usually more Carignane and less Petite Sirah than Lytton Springs having rich ripe power with amazing perfumes plus elegance. Becomes more Bordeaux-like as it ages. Fond memories of that brilliant fine claret-like 1973!

LYTTON SPRINGS: Tasted Ridge 2019 (first one was 1972) of Zin, Petite Sirah, Carignane, and Mataro interplanted field blend 73/16/9/2 at 14.6 abv with some tartaric acid added. These vines are at higher elevation around 250 feet but younger at “only” 115-120 years and usually provides more Petite Sirah and less Carignane in the blend than Geyserville. Found it similar big dark tannic but with those typical earthy notes. Tends to be juicy and more forwardly approachable though their 2016 shows a powerful texture as well. Both vineyards result in fruit that delivers great distinctive wines. Fun to check them both out and find your own signature similarities & differences both young and with cellaring.

On Sunday July 17, 2022 Vancouver Branch of The International Wine & Food Society by members Larry & Karen kindly hosted our City Rooftop BBQ. Spectacular 360 degree views of our beautiful city from the double penthouse venue were marveled at together with a wonderful camaraderie among the IWFS members attending. There was a featured 5 litre bottle of 1982 Chateau Clarke of the Baron Edmund de Rothschild from Listrac plus some other interesting mystery wines to study. The BBQ summer event was catered by Chef Don Guthro and his aspiring young enthusiastic team from D.I.C.E.D Culinary School which stands for Diverse Innovation in Culinary Educational Development. It is an innovative inspirational idea that needs to spread further around the world for “Self Funded Social Purpose Hospitality Business”. Admire the motivation shown for a good cause in their statement: “Proceeds from all of our business activity goes towards our sponsored culinary training programs at D.I.C.E.D Culinary School. We are a self driven Social Purpose Business that focuses on giving individuals a skill so they can help themselves to become part of their community.” Check out their dicedculinary.com website for more details.

The food was your rather usual BBQ fare with charcuterie platters plus some lovely fresh produce including sweet Sungold cherry tomatoes. Beef burgers were perfectly grilled with various cheeses or other toppings offered. Your scribe preferred their tasty vegan burger of chickpea with cabbage alternative. Don prepared his own special secret recipe mayo that really made all the grilled items sing! Too many varied wine choices tasted to list them here but some of my highlights:

CHATEAU MARTINOLLES CREMANT DE LIMOUX ROSE BRUT: Surprisingly excellent value Vin Mousseux blend of Chardonnay, Chenin, and Pinot Noir from the St. Hilaire village hills.

L’ALTRO LANGHE CHARDONNAY 2020 PIO CESARE: Fresh dry 100% varietal best with food.

KEN FORRESTER OLDVINE RESERVE CHENIN BLANC 2019 STELLENBOSCH: Just off a Decanter Best In Show Award for their 2021 vintage this 2019 is drinking fantastic right now from this top producer but no rush either. Highly recommended Chenin!

CHATEAU DE FRANCE GRAND BORDEAUX BLANC 2015 PESSAC-LEOGNAN: Round ready full blend of 46% Sauvignon Blanc, 44% Semillon & 10 Sauvignon Gris.

CHATEAU REYNON SAUVIGNON BLANC 2017 BORDEAUX: Lovely dry structured citrus grapefruit acidity of intense lees fruit from this Premieres Cotes de Bordeaux property purchase by Dubourdieu family in 1958 plus amazing vineyard work since 1976 by legendary Denis Dubourdieu. Always an amazing pure example of Sauvignon worth searching out.

BC REDS: Lots of these older top Bordeaux blends included:

OSOYOOS LAROSE 2008 LE GRAND VIN: Merlot 60% harder CS 25%

TINHORN CREEK MERLOT 2008 OLDFIELD RESERVE: Rich 15 abv

LAUGHING STOCK PORTFOLIO 2003: Only 8 Tons of grapes for 500 cases first vintage crushed at Poplar Grove with 64/33/3 Merlot, CS, CF Rather nice and ready now but simpler finish. Guessed blind a 2006 top BC red blend.

CHATEAU ROZIER 2005 ST. EMILION: Usually a good value choice. This earthy Merlot blend is more mature than most classic 2005 Bordeaux.

CHATEAU CARBONNIEUX 2005 GRAVES: More depth but spicy fruit is lighter in style as well so start drinking it now.

CHATEAU CAMBON LA PELOUSE 2010 HAUT-MEDOC: Always have liked this property a neighbour to Margaux with my 2000 drinking beautifully now and 2005 starting to come around. This 2010 of 50/47/3 M, CS, PV is remarkable and maybe my wine of the night. Buckets of ripe full fruit with some of that 2010 excellent structure. Approachable but no rush. Outstanding value find by members Sharon & Ray.

BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2010 CANALICCHIO DI SOPRA: Great vintage in Brunello too. Power with full plummy Sangiovese juice. Excellent drinking now as an expensive treat from member Dr, Bob.

CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2007 LE VIEUX DONJON: On a lovely drinking exotic plateau presently from kind members Kim & Alvin. Blend is all aged in large vats with 75% Grenache showing well with the contributing depth of Syrah & Mouvedre and reminding me of their gorgeous 1998.

SHANNON PINOT NOIR 2009 ROCKVIEW RIDGE ELGIN: Near the vineyards in Hemel-en-Aarde of outstanding Hamilton Russell in South Africa this is a good effort but a bit too ripe sweet cinnamon and less delicate refined than HR. Maybe better early on.

GRECHETTO PASSITO 2015 MONTECORNEO 570 GENUS: From Umbria Italy with an amber look of sweet figs & honey from Nellie & Vincent on visiting there. They are developing for the winery a special label for this wine with her spectacular art piece.

GRAY MONK KERNER LATE HARVEST 2006: Delicious citrus flavours to go with the finished wine’s 32.5 g/l residual sugar provided by Maggie & Larry. Thanks.

Question: How is the 2022 vintage year developing in Europe?

Answer: Your question on Europe covers too many wine regions to cover them all specifically here. Also it is still too early to know definitively what shape most vineyards will be in come harvest time. What we do know presently is that many parts of Europe – especially Bordeaux, Portugal, Spain, England, and Italy – are seeing major continuing heatwaves with some 40+ Celsius temperatures expected to peak this weekend. Lots of forest fires (Euronews reports over 1700 hectares of pine trees already burnt near Bordeaux) with smoke issues being monitored. Conditions are being compared to the historic 2003 (and 2019) hot weather years. Recommend you continue to keep a close eye over the next couple of months on these important developing matters that undoubtedly are going to affect many European vineyards in a major way. Expecting there are going to be some really unique wines produced in Europe from the 2022 vintage!