Question: What is all the hype about the new 2019 Chateau d’Yquem?
Answer: There is always good publicity every year for this leading sweet wine from Sauternes. Probably more hype right now because of three main factors:
The 2019 vintage is being released right now this week.
LVMH marketing is encouraging consumers to try Chateau d’Yquem younger and on more occasions (not just with dessert) when it is fresher and more vibrant with a “Lighthouse” project of by-the-glass service at 35 top restaurants around the world.
The 2019 vintage suits this purpose and is a very unique blend using a very high 45% Sauvignon Blanc with the usual dominant Semillon.
Finding the best wine pairings to go with food has been a long time pursuit of The International Wine & Food Society. It all started with our Founder Andre L. Simon and his key publication of “Partners – A Guide to the Game of Wine & Food Match-Making”. This booklet is still a most highly sought after reference work for valuable classic suggestions always worth exploring. Over the years since then there have been many new wine regions discovered and many more exciting ideas developed for interesting food & wine matchings. Your scribe tried nearly 10 years ago in Vancouver on September 13, 2012 by presenting the Andre L. Simon Lecture referenced here to revisit and update some of the more current thinking around the world on this fascinating topic. One of our goals (not fully yet realized) was to get more of your input on your cherished wine and food pairings to share with all of us. Still hopeful we can make more progress in this regard.
The good news is that there is an IWFS APP for members with lots of very valuable information including our updated Vintage Card, Monographs, and other educational Publications & Videos. The newest addition to the member APP (and a good reason for joining our Society to get access) is a detailed Wine & Food Pairing Guide as a result of dedicated research by Stephen Hipple (Council Bluffs, Okoboji, & Omaha, Nebraska) and his team. It is a formidable first effort to be revised and updated in the future with your input but already is fairly extensive. You can search to pair by wine or pair by food. There are some 33 grape varieties listed (including sake) from Barbera to Zinfandel (red!). There also are general choices to search by food including Cheese, Fish & Seafood, Meat, Poultry, Game, Asian/Indian, Vegetarian, Dessert and Other (burritos, pizza, nachos, smoked foods, etc – even cigars!). The Cheeses section is so admirably extensive with a plethora of around 60 types listed from Asiago to Zamarano (Spanish sheep milk). Very thought-provoking work with all the amazing detail of ideas. As an example under Fish & Seafood there is a listing of Lobster prepared 4 different ways (Plain, Grilled, Roasted, With Butter) each with a different wine grape selection. Highly recommended. Members check it out asap. Non-members consider joining IWFS to have the use of this most valuable culinary tool. Congrats Stephen and very well done indeed! Andre Simon would be proud.
Answer: It is a native grape variety throughout Portugal especially successful in the southeastern Alentejo region with Indicacao Geografica Alentejano. Versatile one used for quite exotic white wines from early picked fresh and lively to riper later harvest in a rich rounder style. A really excellent blend your scribe has enjoyed is by winemaker Antonio Macanita using 12 months in French oak for Arrepiado Collection Reserva 2016 (13 abv) of 70% of Antao Vaz plus 15% each of Chardonnay & Riesling. A lovely fresh, rich, creamy wine with a touch of spice. Check out underrated Antoa Vaz!
Canada’s wine profile is finally reaching world credibility. Although Icewine (first produced in 1973 by Hainle in BC and later in Ontario) has been successful for a while it is really only in the last couple of decades that high-quality table wines have blossomed. Even so the pinot noir variety was one of the slowest to show developing progress. Looking back at the results of the Canadian Wine Awards confirms this observation:
2005 (5th Annual CWA): 43 entries of Pinot Noir 16 Medals but no Gold. Two Silvers 2003 Coyote’s Run Estate Reserve ($36 Ont.) & 2003 Mount Boucherie Summit Reserve ($16.90 BC).
2006: 44 entries of Pinot Noir with 1 Gold to 2004 Coyote’s Run Black Paw Vineyard ($36) but 7 Silver all from BC led by CedarCreek & Quails’ Gate with 2 each and Mission Hill.
2007: 41 entries with 16 medals, no Golds but 9 Silver 7 BC led by highest scoring CedarCreek Platinum Reserve Block Four ($55) – still producing great wine from this block today – and 2 2005s Niagara Peninsula by Flat Rock Cellars Gravity & Hidden Bench Estate Beamsville Bench. Your scribe, a long time judge for CWA noted “Pinot Noir is indeed the heartbreak grape for both producers and judges. Maybe they are just too young and closed up at the time of year we taste, but Canada needs to keep on with this variety; with older vines, we will see some big, heralded winners.” DJ Kearney observed: “We are still trying to set our pinot noir rudder. There are charming wines and there are clearly over-oaked wines.”
2008: 54 entries, 20 medals,16 from BC led by 3 Golds of Mount Boucherie, Quails’ Gate, & Church & State.
2009: 62 entries with 29 medals and finally starting to show more style and class.
2010: 62 entries 44 medals with 4 Gold & 15 Silver (17/19 from BC).
2011: 82 entries 32 medals with 2008 Howling Bluff Pinot Noir Naramata declared Red Wine of the Year!
As a long time follower of Averill Creek in the Cowichan Valley on Vancouver Island it was with anticipation on March 11, 2022 to taste again their remarkable 2009 Reserve from 100% Estate grown pinot noir fruit. A south facing slope of Mount Prevost was planted with 4 different clones of pinot noir from 2002. Big admirer of owner Andy Johnston’s dedication and drive with low yield cropping special terroir to produce eventually Canada’s best pinot noir. Admired his earlier submissions to CWA without even receiving a medal. Even though they were rather light bodied they showed potential for purity, balance, and elegance and your scribe encouraged Andy by advising they were on the right track and to persevere with this difficult variety. They did and later were awarded CWA Gold for this 2009 Reserve. For more details on an interesting well written up Averill Creek vertical 2005-2012 check out the #24 one on bcpinotnoir.com. They also have been helped considerably recently for complexity and structure by experience, older vines, and fortunate climate change. In fact their 2018 Barrel 24 (15 year old vines) was made available only to CRU Society members at $120.20/bottle and is already sold out. What a statement of support that makes!
Lots of other top Pinot Noir producers in Canada are presently worth investigating. Be sure to check out among many possible choices the fantastic consistency and finesse of Meyer Family Vineyards, Martin’s Lane, 1 Mill Road, Tawse, and Le Clos Jordanne. Prince Edward County in Ontario is attracting deserved attention led by Closson Chase and Rosehall Run.
As for the 2009 Reserve of Averill Creek it was delicious. Younger vines with 15 months French oak now integrated into a very smooth mature soft savoury spicy cherries and tobacco. Wonderful still fresh pairing for tomato lasagna with homemade pork sausages. Back label notes “Enjoy now or cellar for up to 10 years.” On a lovely plateau now but they underestimated the staying power. No rush. Well done indeed for a first Reserve. Future for Averill Creek is bright indeed. Congrats.
Question: Update please on the latest wine “appellations” in BC?
Answer: Yes, British Columbia is developing a respected origin system to help identify where the grapes are grown and the wine is produced. There are nine general geographic zones (GI) in the province but now 6 important specific geographic indications (sub-GI). Admirably, wherever possible they are using natural features to define and fix the boundaries of each sub-GI including for the latest one just announced of Golden Mile Slopes. It joins Golden Mile Bench, Naramata Bench, Okanagan Falls, Skaha Bench, and Cowichan Valley. Lots more possible sub-GI presently under consideration including: Lake Country, Kelowna (both East Kelowna Slopes & South Kelowna Slopes), and Summerland (Lakeshore, Valley, and Benches). Stay tuned!
