As we all know, climate change is impacting wines produced around the world. Bordeaux experienced hot extreme Summer heat in 2003 with a reported 20 days (previous high 15 days in 1990) over 30C (86F) and 6 over 40C (104F). Compare that to the classic 2005 with only 2 days over 35C. In the last 6 years since 2018 (mildew issues like 2023 affecting Merlot more than Cabernet grapes) through to the surprisingly successful 2022 and unique now in Vendange 2023 the Bordeaux weather has seen lots of drought, heat & water stress, earlier picking, and riper grapes. However vineyard management has found clever innovations for these different conditions plus the vines themselves and clonal selections are adapting well. Some excellent recent wines are being produced. Nature is an amazing thing! Last week your scribe was delighted to participate in two Bordeaux wine tastings, first a repeat 2003 vertical (see link here from 2015) with so knowledgeable Bill Blatch of ten wines and the second a media preview (for the BCLDB 2020 Release on September 23) by Barb Philip MW of fifteen wines. Lots of differences between these two vintages 17 years apart but surprisingly some key similarities too.

The 2003s:

1. DE REIGNAC Bordeaux Superieur (west side of Entre-Deux-Mers): 140 hectares/79 planted, Green harvested to 35hl/ha, 20 months 100% new oak, 75% Merlot/25 Cab 13.5 abv Purchased by Vatelot in 1990 called it Reignac Prestige. Rich but coarser now ready. Prefer their 3 hectare old vines Balthus since 2002.

2. BELLEFONT-BELCIER St. Emilion: 20 hectares (13 planted) near Tertre-Roteboeuf and owned by Francois Mitjaville in the sixties. Several owners since including Chinese. 13.5 from 70%Merlot/20CF/10CS. Spicy rounded rather simple making better wine today with a good 2018.

3. LYNSOLENCE St. Emilion: Garagiste 6.5 hectares St. Sulpice near Monbousquet & Valandraud (best grapes) of 100% old vines Merlot of low yields from different soils in 100% new oak (only 850 cases). Personable owner Denis Barraud since 1971 died earlier this year. Highest alcohol on label at 14 and full rich and unique. Ready.

4. GISCOURS Margaux: Third Growth: Favourite from Nicolas Tari in 1966 & 1970 but fell on harder times in 80s & 90s. Large estate of 300 hectares with 82 planted on very diverse soils on 3 hills. Revived by Alexander Van Beek Manager since 1998 with denser plantings and more cab sauv. Softer lush riper. Still good value with a great 2015.

5. CLOS DE MARQUIS St. Julien: Started as 2nd wine of Leoville Las Cases but now has its own Brand and vineyard with softer tannins and better early accessibility but has Delon magic touch. Compare this 54CS/43M/3PV vs LLC 70CS/17M/13CF yet both picked September 11-26. Shows classy structure as forwardly drinking beauty again.

6. GRAND PUY DUCASSE Pauillac: Improving with consultants first Denis Dubourdieu and since 2013 Hubert de Bouard of Angelus with renovations and optical sorters. 2003 earthy brett forest floor touch of tobacco from 2/3 CS & 1/3 M. Enjoyed deep punted very heavy bottle of surprising 1958 earlier this year but producing better wines since 2015 and in 2020.

7. GRAND PUY LACOSTE Pauillac: Another 5th growth but at a much higher standard with fantastic 1982 & 1986. Here shows a gentler softer blowsy personality with less classic usual structure. My opinion is that the deep gravel soils are not ideal for this very hot dry year resulting in drier figgy-pruney fruit with autumn leaves and a touch of eucalyptus rather than pure cassis.

8. DUHART MILON Pauillac: 4th Growth among three 5th Growth Pauillacs. Best in 2003 and clearly best again here. Continues to improve in bottle. So classy sweet cassis cedar lead pencil licorice. Delicious. WOW!

9. LYNCH BAGES Pauillac: 75%CS/15M/8CF/2PV shows the vintage as too rich, opulent, seductive, riper fruit. Buy the great 2016 and impressive 2020.

10. LA TOUR BLANCHE Sauternes: Dark gold colour already with Bill’s comment “very Muscat” so true in the aromatics. Has botrytis and spice but needs some more balancing acidity for 83 Semillon, 12SB, and 5 Muscadelle. Right behind d’Yquem in 1855 but fell behind with Minister of Agriculture management from 1910 to mid-80s but bounced back in 1988 with lower yields and 100% new oak. Great 1990 & 2001.

The 2020s:

Barb Philip MW mentioned 3rd successful vintage in a row but your personal choice between “2018 riper some almost Chateauneuf du Pape notes, 2019 more tannins and more finesse, and 2020 differently ripe too and changing of the style – very hands on extracting less and gentle balance is the key.”  Your scribe added the new buzz word “infusion” as well. Tasted the structured polished 2020 Chateau Margaux $1600 but was also impressed with other wines. Beychevelle $200 has St. Julien depth but atypical 45 Merlot blended with 51 CS & 4PV but only 55% selection making the Grand Vin. 2020 Grand Puy Ducasse $95 way better than 2003 but still somewhat coarser fruit. Impressed most (as in 2003) by those undervalued St. Estephe reds grown in wetter cooler clay soils that suits the hot conditions. Charming Lilian Ladouys $55 is my top value choice followed by vibrant Phelan Segur $110. Keep an eye out for trendy fav Chateau Meyney! Pomerols are always rather expensive with demand exceeding the supply but they too did well in 2020 on the clay. Rouget is way up in price (from the earlier drinking 2003) at $120 but now has an amazing new depth of fruit and the rich dense Gazin $220 will cellar into something very special indeed.

2020 has some 2003 similarities but show even better managed vineyards and winery know-how in the lovely resulting wines. Well done!

Question: Which vintage of Sauternes produced the sweetest wine?

Answer: According to Bill Blatch Sauternes expert it would likely be 2003 followed by 1990. Both vintages had remarkable late ripening conditions where the grapes so quickly reached extraordinary sugar levels during the selective harvests in the vineyards.

Don’t usually age Canadian white wines but appreciate the fresh vibrancy they usually bring for drinking younger. However some grape varieties with better acidity balance and higher extract certainly lend themselves to some bottle age for an improved resulting wine. Riesling comes first to mind but some would say Chardonnay. However, Chenin Blanc and white Rhone blends also can develop some interesting nuances with more time in the bottle. Certainly have marvelled over very old textured Savennieres (of Chenin Blanc) from the Loire Valley in France including Clos de la Coulee de Serrant (Joly family monopoly). Your scribe was fortunate to try last year mature Chave 1978 white Hermitage (usually 80% Marsanne & 20% Roussanne) from the northern Rhone that ages brilliantly. Note the success of Esprit de Tablas Blanc (mainly Roussanne but blend a total of 6 grapes from Chateau de Beaucastel cuttings) from Tablas Creek Vineyard in Paso Robles California and Marsanne from Tahbilk (established in 1860 in Victoria, Australia).

How do those grapes develop in the wines from the Okanagan Valley in British Columbia? Present leaders include Road 13 Vineyards for old vines Chenin Blanc planted on the Golden Mile Bench in 1968 and now made into ageable Sparkling too. Moon Curser Vineyards Roussanne Marsanne on the Osoyoos East Bench (even initially made under the old Twisted Tree winery name) with currently 2021 a successful blend of 82% Roussanne & 18% Marsanne. Also Le Vieux Pin with a single varietal late ripening Roussanne since 2014 plus their lovely Ava blend of 3 grapes but in 2021 now Roussanne dominant with 53%, 30% Viognier and 17% Marsanne.

In the early days of wine in the Okanagan Valley there were several pioneers that didn’t receive enough credit for their foresight. One was Howard Soon who joined Calona Wines in 1980 starting the wonderful “Small Lots” program for premium lots. Another was Hungarian Sandor Mayer who moved with his family to the Okanagan in 1988 and became winemaker for Okanagan Vineyards Winery (OVW) in 1992 developing the famous single vineyard Dark Horse Estate Vineyard near Oliver. In 1996 OVW was purchased by Inniskillin Wines (established in Ontario in 1975 by co-founders Donald Ziraldo & Karl Kaiser) and later in 2006 became part of Constellation Brands.

Admired what Sandor did with his Discovery Series (“small lots embodying Inniskillin’s spirit of adventure and passion for crafting wines of outstanding character”) including first planted Zinfandel, Tempranillo, and other red varieties. Your scribe particularly liked what Sandor was doing with his limited production whites and complimented him on them several times and encouraged him to do more. Enjoyed his early production of both 2005 chenin blanc & 2006 marsanne roussanne which were pretty good tasting early on. Decided to age the 2006 vintage of both and they certainly did improve dramatically in bottle. Saved my last bottle of each to open last week after 17 years and what a surprise was in store. The 2006 Chenin (2500 cases at 14 abv) was quite a dark yellow colour but not maderized or oxidized but displaying typical rich minerality of the variety plus as Sandor said “generous sweet salty honey & ripe honeydew and lingering flavours of apple, guava, and pineapple.” Suggest you drink now at the end of its delightful plateau.

The surprising star and inspiration for this wine column today was his Discovery Series 2006 Marsanne Roussanne (only 78 cases at 13 abv). Not sure who supplied these grapes – probably Golden Mile Bench – because Dark Horse Vineyard was not planted with them till 2006. What an amazing wine with time standing still for this 50/50 blend. An unbelievable pale light green Chablis-like look. How is this possible? Unusual as Marsanne gets darker with age and Roussanne is prone to oxidation. Shows some floral notes with prominent juicy apples, ripe pear, almonds, and apricot stone fruits. Still has what Sandor called “well balanced with crisp acidity on the finish.” Not yet as oily as expected. This wine may go on almost forever with the outstanding structure and complexity in this bottle. It matched sublimely with a delicious fresh local wild King Salmon dinner. Pure joy of dining. Sandor after 25 years of valuable contributions to the early BC wine industry moved back to Hungary in 2014. Sure he would appreciate that this special wine he was trying to produce turned out to be a fantastic one indeed. What a positive inspiration and encouragement for other wineries presently trying to make complex ageable Marsanne Roussanne. Our congrats!

Question: When will they do Burgundy & Beaujolais 2023 Harvest?

Answer: Crazy year. Beaujolais had the most intense long drought they ever experienced in 2023 and started early harvest already on August 17 according to the latest report in Le Monde. The Chalonnaise & Beaujolais also experienced several hailstorms. Chablis has issues with rot. Burgundy has predicted a larger crop level though widely varying yields on each vine in the same plot causes selection problems and different phenolic ripening issues but are expecting to commence harvest generally around September 8/9. Stay tuned for interesting updated Vendange information during September.

The Sous-Commanderie de Vancouver of the Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin held their annual Summer Paulee extended lunch event on August 26, 2023 at Acquafarina, a Michelin Guide recommended fine-dining restaurant. Our always exciting Paulee events from previous years are posted on this Blog but the last time the theme was Grand Cru Chablis was in 2017 (and 2011) so the link dated September 4 is here. Your scribe describes the 7 Grand Cru vineyards in more detail on what makes them really unique. There also is another posting June 1, 2020 linked here of a Chablis tasting your scribe conducted on Zoom for The Wine & Food Society of Boston (est.1934) rating many vintages both pre-2010 & every year 2010- 2019 inclusive. Time for an update.

Grand Senechal George Loverock does excellent work with his Chef du Protocol Randy Rae in organizing these events. Well done. Admired how Cellier Blair Curtis chose “simpler” reds to match the outstanding 6 course cuisine by Executive Chef Jefferson Alvarez and his brigade so that the Grand Cru Chablis would be the stars. That 2009 Pavelot SLB Aux Guettes was not simple but great even if not quite as complex as their 2009 La Dominode. Another top highlight was the 2010 Butteaux 1er Cru from Francois Raveneau that shone so brightly as a Grand Cru wannabe of top quality. So young.

This opportunity to study and compare some 40 Grand Cru Chablis is irresistible for me who doesn’t take advantage of the wonderful social aspect of the Paulee but instead just intensely focuses on quickly tasting to get an overall impression on all the wines. Shown is the printed list of some 36 (but of course more were added by late comers) ranging from 2000 to 2021. The main producer was Domaine Wiliam Fevre (DWF) with about a dozen followed by half a dozen Domaine Christian Moreau (DCM) – both important suppliers to the British Columbia wine market. Les Clos (IMHO clearly the best cru) led the way with over 1/3 of them followed by Bougros (7), Preuses, Vaudesir (including Moutonne), Blanchots, Valmur and zero Grenouilles.

Knowledgeable member friend Ritchie Younger spoke briefly on the long history of the region and his concern of 10x growth of Chablis from 500 hectares in 1950 to 5800 in 2023. He thought all the wines were pretty solid but felt 2014 was clearly the best vintage. Agreed! He picked a Top 5 (different from mine) led by two Dauvissat Les Preuses 2016 & 2007 with 2014 Les Clos DCM 3rd, Faiveley 2009 Les Clos 4th, and his own mag of 2010 Les Preuses DWF 5th.

Your scribe was more critical with some pre-mox of older wines worrisome but probably bottle variation. Worst was 2008 Bougros DWF but usual fav Les Clos 2000 DWF & 2005 DCM both were maderizing – surprising for that long aging vineyard at 20 years.

2007: Variable not consistent with stormy April 21 and later hail but Dauvissat made a good selection with rounder Les Preuses approachable earlier than Les Clos.

2008: Less rain than Cote d’Or plus no hail, botrytis or rot in a later harvest gave more dry extract & glycerol as shown in Les Clos DWF.

2009: Bigger crop warmer less acidity often more grape-like Chardonnay called Beaunois (same in 2018 & 2019) than pure Chablis definition but Faiveley Les Clos well balanced with menthol licorice notes.

2010: Yields down intense minerality is perfect in Les Clos DWF but Les Preuses though fresh in Mag has a dank unclean nose. Decanting might have helped the bouquet.

2011: Rather cool rainy July, August, September resulted in lighter ready now style even for fuller Valmur DCM.

2012: Shorter crop irregular flowering lovely not as mineral as 2010.

2013: Difficult year with mushroom exotic notes but Drouhin-Vaudon Vaudesir a clean surprise.

2014: Classic dense with aromatic freshness. All the 2014 tasted showed a really outstanding vintage led by Les Clos DCM saline minerality complexity. The Louis Michel Les Clos (white pepper) & Vaudesir (coconut) plus Billaud-Simon (acquired in 2014 by Faiveley) Blanchots and Vaudesir Long-Depaquit (Bichot) were all bright, fresh, stylish and lighter bodied showing their individual cru distinct definition brilliantly.

2015: Atypically Burgundian rich earlier picking with harvest hail on August 31/September 1. Les Clos DCM on a delicious plateau.

2016: Frost hit April 26/27 plus May 13 & 27 followed by rain and warm Summer. Small crop is “patchy” but another special selection by Dauvissat Les Preuses for earlier enjoyment.

2017: Mid-April frosts for lower yields with energetic balance. Like the comment of Fabien Moreau DCM that it “took 10 vines to fill one basket in 2017 but only 1 vine/basket in 2018 bigger yields.

2018: Heat spikes softer rounded peachier style even in Les Clos and Olivier Leflaive Vaudesir.

2019: Also heat spikes but August was not as blisteringly hot so some balancing tension for the super concentrated Chardonnay-like style. Three Bougros are indeed defined by the usual generous and robust character of the cru but positively less earthy than usual. Not delicate or subtle.

2020: Some similarity to 2017 more classic style but not the 2014 outstanding balance of acidity. Early harvest that avoided the heat spikes of 2018 & 2019. Getting good wine reviews and the Moutonne monopole impresses with the rich classy complex structured flavours getting the 2nd highest score of 97 (behind 98 for Raveneau Les Clos) in the recent 2020 extensive horizontal tasting by Decanter.

2021: Complicated and inconsistent. Some are slimmer and softer. Fun to try the new Domaine Gueguen Bougros from Celine (daughter of J-M Brocard) & Frederic (from Dom. Durup). Watch out for them.

My Top 5:

1. 2014 Les Clos DCM
2. 2020 Moutonne Domaine Long-Depaquit (Albert Bichot)
3. 2010 Les Clos DWF
4. 2014 Les Clos Domaine Louis Michel
5. 2014 Vaudesir Domaine Louis Michel

Acquafarina is lucky to have the talented rising Sommelier star Evelyne Quinti as their Wine Director who did a wonderful difficult wine service all at perfect temperatures. Congrats.