Château Margaux is a top wine estate with a long history ranked as a First Growth in the 1855 Bordeaux Classification but shining brightly since the acquisition by the Mentzelopoulos family in 1977. Prior to that there were some disappointing wines with underperforming vintages under the Ginestat ownership but also some treasures like 1961 & 1953. The wines improved immediately with 1978 & 1979 both pretty stellar followed by great wines from the excellent decade of the eighties and subsequently. So much credit for the remarkable restoration goes to Corinne Mentzelopoulos (started by her father Andre who died in 1980) plus the talented managing director Paul Pontallier who arrived in 1983 (but sadly passed away in 2016) for taking a long term quality historic view rather than just as an investment.

Our Commanderie de Bordeaux also started in 1977 so your scribe organized a special mutual 20 year celebration tasting-dinner inviting Corinne at The Four Seasons Hotel Vancouver on April 26, 1997. What a memorable event! Showed 9 vintages from fragrant leaner 1966 in magnum, lovely drinking “not quite ripe” 1978 and those excellent run of vintages in the eighties all so excellent. Fortunate to have dined many times at the Chateau plus many insightful times spent being educated by Paul back on June 29, 1998 trying the nineties with 1996 “huge yet easy at the same time – delicate but also powerful the way it should be”. My last visit with Paul at the property was on July 8, 2015 enjoying over dinner magnums of their surprisingly complex 1959 & 1945 and reviewing in some detail all his vintages. He served to begin the day 2010 “precision, purity, structure 90% cab sauv”, 2009 “generous, ripeness, voluptuous”, & 2005 “extraordinary concentration, classy, intensity, firmer tannins, perfect” which he modestly declared were “the 3 best vintages of Chateau Margaux in the last 100 years”. Congrats.

Nine vintages of Chateau Margaux were assessed by the Vancouver Group of Eight event #106 on December 8, 2022 with dinner at CinCin restaurant.

Wonderful aperitif to start of 2002 Billecart-Salmon Cuvee Nicolas Francois from top vineyards 60% pinot noir & 40% chardonnay with 20% vinified in oak barrels plus only partial malo to save fresh acidity and aged 10 years on the lees + 4 grams/litre dosage. Some spice. Brilliant outstanding digestif of 2001 Chateau d’Yquem Sauternes one of the all-time greats with superb botrytis & perfect balance and breathtaking depth of complex flavours on the rich middle palate. Long. What a treat!

Some brief comments on the showing of the 9 Chateau Margaux:

2005 CHATEAU MARGAUX: Dark deep look Pure intense powerful fruit bouquet with “extraordinary concentration and firmer tannins” that Paul described so well. Hold as this will be a great treasure indeed. More outstanding delicacy and complexity to come with patience.

1996 CHATEAU MARGAUX: Depth paler edge in a classic style with 100% new oak but does combine some “delicacy with power” already. No rush.

1995 CHÂTEAU MARGAUX: Darker rim than 1996 but more approachable in a lighter style with even more delicacy and elegance showing well that Margaux signature charm. Lovely.

1990 CHATEAU MARGAUX: Lighter more mature colour than 86 & 83 showing complex tertiary development on the nose. Classy viscosity combining power with elegance yet again. Popular but your scribe found this bottle a bit too ripe, soft and forward for a perfect 100 score. Can enjoy it now.

1986 CHATEAU MARGAUX: Darkest of second flight. Big tannic fruit but this bottle shows slightly musty TCA. A different type vintage that Paul stated “will be great but will take many years because of the strong big hard tannins”. Showed best of all wines young in 1997 tasting at Corinne 20 year event and excellent potential every time subsequently. Lots of fruit extract is still there. Advise you to continue to cellar 1986. Should turn out to be something really unique.

1983 CHATEAU MARGAUX: Classic cassis, floral, & flowers. Your scribe has experienced many bottles of this vintage with TCA issues. Inconsistent bottles. Caveat emptor. Higher yields but exquisite and opened superbly in the glass. Still like it more than “soupy” 1982 when it is from a great bottle. Lovely charming one here!

1981 CHATEAU MARGAUX: Less power than above wines but beautiful Margaux aromatics. Probably wine of the vintage in Bordeaux. Admire the elegance and delicacy. Tried many bottles, always so stylish. Admire this at 40+ years.

1975 CHATEAU MARGAUX: Clearly is gone. Shows all the worst of 1975 with acid and hard tannins remaining but no fruit left. Very dry. As usual for Chateau Margaux in 1975 this is disappointing.

1970 CHATEAU MARGAUX: Provided as a mystery by your scribe but accurately guessed by others to be an older off vintage Chateau Margaux. In the early days was always badly beaten when compared to the outstanding 1970 Palmer. Here has a very dark look compared to 1975 and way more flesh. Shows some minty eucalyptus on the bouquet and dried fruits on the palate that are improved in a refreshing way by the acidity when paired with the choice ribeye. For sure not as delicious as some wonderful 1970s still showing at 50+ (Latour, Lynch Bages, Ducru) but actually IMHO several bottles recently show 1970 is somewhat underrated and can be a serviceable bottle. Drink up.

Question: Which Pauillac producers make a Bordeaux Blanc and are those grapes grown in Pauillac or elsewhere?

Answer: Yes there are some labelled Bordeaux Blanc from Pauillac producers using combinations of Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Gris, Semillon, and Muscadelle grapes.

Two excellent ones and easiest to find are:

Aile d’Argent by Chateau Mouton Rothschild: Planted 53%SB, 11%SG, 35%S and 1%M

Blanc de Lynch-Bages by Chateau Lynch-Bages: Planted 60%SB 27%S and 13%M 

Sometimes producers in the Medoc make a small non-commercial production of white wine for their own personal use. They use combinations of the 4 main white wine grapes from vines situated both within and outside the Pauillac AC. No one in Pauillac has reached the consumer level of Pavillon Blanc du Chateau Margaux with their special 100% Sauvignon Blanc grown on a unique 11 hectare site on their property. All wines worth checking out.

The most unique interesting ones your scribe has ever tasted are the 1960 & 1959 Blanc from Chateau Lafite Rothschild. Impossible to find those treasures now.

The festive season is underway and the Vancouver Branch of The International Wine & Food Society has already held their traditional Christmas dinner at The Vancouver Club on November 27, 2022. Some of these holiday celebrations have been written up on this Blog previously including a detailed historical nostalgic look on December 9, 2019 linked here. The great turn-out of members this year included many long-time ones who were presented with Certificate of Membership Certificates from IWFS Americas Inc. – the longest being your scribe and my wife Joan for a Fifty Year Anniversary in our wonderful Society. The prestigious Vancouver Club was the perfect location for this dinner (after successful Boulevard last year) as it is on a high under new General Manager Tim Ellison plus Executive Chef Matthew Taylor and his brigade with their renewed emphasis on delivering inspired top quality food & wine for special events. They certainly did so for us as you can see from the Menu and photos including Champagne sabering and hands-on flambee at each table of the signature Christmas pudding by the GM himself. Outstanding service. Lots of memorable highlights including my fav of “at table service” of a delicious Lobster Veloute course with roasted chestnuts paired with the fresh vibrant complex Vaulorent Chablis from the outstanding cooperative La Chablisienne. That wine was truly amazing assisted by the best balanced vintage for Chablis in this Millennium plus arguably the best Premier Cru vineyard (sub-climat of Fourchaume bordering Grand Cru Les Preuses) with Montee de Tonnerre (on the other side next to Grand Cru Les Blanchots) and others.

More excellent photos taken by Milena Robertson are linked here. Please comment on your own Branch holiday celebration events for 2022 on this Blog.

Question: What is the “Avinage” technique?

Answer: Yes, this is a favourite wine process sometimes used by your scribe. It is old school method perhaps but very important to ensure a true authentic presentation of your wine. It means pouring a small amount of your opened wine bottle “avenir la carafe” into your decanter, then swirl around and into an empty glass to put aside. This similar “Avinage” technique can be used on your wine glass as well. All this is done before actually pouring the bottle contents into your decanter or wine glass for serving. An abundance of caution for sure but really helps in many cases where you are not sure the decanter or glass is perfectly clean and not affected by detergent, previous use, dust, water, cardboard storage, scented cabinets, etc. Remember this forgotten helpful aid and use it sometime.

On November 24, 2022 the chef competition for Canada’s Great Kitchen Party (formerly Gold Medal Plates) returned to Vancouver at the Westin Bayshore Inn – the last regional qualifier of 9 cities leading to the Grand Finale of Canadian Culinary Championship (CCC) in Ottawa, Ontario on February 3 & 4, 2023. Check out for more details of this event on their website of greatkitchenparty.com/ca @GKitchenParty on Twitter & @GreatKitchenParty on both Facebook and especially Instagram.

Your scribe was a judge for this main event and also the Wine Competition organized by David Lawrason National Wine Advisor (First: 2020 Mission Hill Jagged Rock Vineyard Syrah Terroir Collection 15 months in combo of French Oak barrels, Foudre, and Puncheon, Second: 2020 Tantalus Old Vines Riesling 12.7abv, and Third: 2020 Black Hills Ipso Facto 55% Cabernet Sauvignon & 45% Syrah). The final placings for the 2022 Great Kitchen Party Vancouver are:

1. BOBBY MILHERON (Homer St. Cafe & Bar, Tableau Bar Bistro, Maxine’s Cafe & Bar) with his innovative brilliant dish of lightly smoked Canadian Geoduck & BC Spot Prawn terrine with pickled Bull Kelp, Sunchoke and shellfish jus. He also provided a wonderful most insightful brochure with QR code scan for ingredient producers all clasped by an amazing geoduck shaped clasp. Also received the People’s Choice Award. Well done!

2. MIKE TUANGKITKUN (Chef de Cuisine at Maenam) Southern Thai style Turmeric Curry with a mosaic of BC Sockeye Salmon, mussel, side-striped prawn, fresh young coconut, and squid ink cracker with housemade “Tomyum” seasoning.

3. VISH MAYEKAR (Caffe La Tana, Pepino’s) “Surf & Turf” Lamb Agnolotti & Seared Scallop with South Indian Curry Sauce, Curry Leaf Foam and Lime Crumb.

An outstanding inspired hors d’oeuvre of pate en croute was prepared by Chef Roger Ma (Boulevard in Vancouver) reigning CCC champion clearly showing his talented worthiness for this title. There is an excellent write-up summary on the evening prepared by ourleader National Culinary Advisor James Chatto posted here. Follow the exciting CCC in Ottawa early February.

Bobby Milheron of Homer St. Café and Bar wins gold at Vancouver’s Great Kitchen Party

Flying into Vancouver from Saskatoon gifted us a certain magic – we landed before we took off, and found a city still cradled by autumn, golden leaves not yet fallen from the trees. We were tempted to linger by the placid waters of Coal Harbour, but only for a moment. We had a party to go to – and a splendid party it turned out to be. Our Vancouver event was the first across the country to sell out, which may have been because of the awesome musical line-up assembled, headlined by Bill Henderson and Chilliwack, who rocked on late into the night, Neil Osborne and Dave Osborne of 54-40, Kandle Osborne and Geoffrey Kelly of Spirit of the West. We have had so much incredible music throughout this campaign and we ended it on a stratospheric high. Heather Moyse was our sparkling emcee and Beckie Scott had the whole room in the palm of her hand as she talked about the charity she has created and which is one of those that the Great Kitchen Party supports – Spirit North, empowering Indigenous youth through sport and play.

We included another special moment in the evening – a tribute to Andrew Morrison who was our co-Senior Judge in Vancouver for 14 years and a beloved member of our team, lost to cancer in 2021. The Great Kitchen Party has created a bursary in his name to be awarded annually and in perpetuity to a deserving culinary student from Vancouver Community College. Last night the recipient was Sara Li.

Andrew would have had a great deal to say about the dishes we tasted last night. The standard was exceptionally high all round, with gorgeous sauces in particular evidence, but a clear and unanimous winner emerged in the minds of the judges. Our jury included some of the finest palates in the land, led by Vancouver Senior Judge Joie Alvaro Kent (cookbook author, food writer, culinary judge, entrepreneur, and sipper of Boulevardiers) together with Sid Cross (wine food guru: globally respected educator-judge-media personality & bon vivant), Andrea Carlson (chef, owner of Burdock & Co. Restaurant, Bar Gobo, Harvest Community Foods), Hamid Salimian (VCC Culinary Arts instructor, GoodFlour co-founder, Culinary Olympics coach and gold medallist), Douglas Chang (chef turned quality knife and houseware dealer but forever an eater), and Roger Ma, the Vancouver gold medallist in 2019 and reigning Canadian Culinary Champion. The canapé he prepared for the VIP reception was a stunning slice of paté en croute with a circle of venison loin held in place by a pork and duck farce studded with chopped pistachios and truffles and finished with a quail aspic – an incredibly delicious start to everyone’s evening!

We awarded the bronze medal to Vish Mayekar from Caffè LaTana and Pepino’s Spaghetti House. His dish was a play on surf and turf that combined his roots in Mumbai with his life in Canada and paid homage to the Italian restaurants that have been such a part of his career so far. He presented two hand-rolled agnolotti, striped with squid ink, filled with a farce made of lamb shoulder and belly, seasoned with toasted Indian spices and leavened with a little ricotta. Beside them was a whole scallop, seared in ghee to give a bronze crust and brightened with lemon. The sauce was a carefully
judged, long-simmered melange of tomato, curry leaves, 10 different spices, cilantro and mint while a curry leaf foam echoed some of its flavours in a different, more ethereal form. Tangy lime breadcrumbs added crunch while a coriander oil contributed freshy herbal notes. Chef chose a natural wine for his pairing, the fruity, boldly acidic 2021 Roussanne/Viognier from Artakama in Oliver, B.C.

Our silver medal went to Thachaya “Mike” Tuangkitkun from Maenam. He presented a mosaic of wild sockeye salmon that he brined for an hour with lemongrass, makrut lime leaf and galangal then smoked very briefly with grated dry coconut and brushed with squid ink. The fish was wrapped in betel leaf then sliced to beautiful effect. Beside it in the bowl was a single perfect Salt Spring Island mussel and a single perfect sidestripe shrimp, both of them steamed with a bouquet of Thai herbs. The sauce was the scene-stealer – a rich opulent yellow curry, silky with coconut cream, coloured by turmeric and soothed with fresh young coconut juice. A sturdy puffed tapioca cracker had the flavour to stand up to the sauce’s heat, dusted with a Tom Yum seasoning of lemongrass, lime leaf and galangal. Finishing garnishes included a lovely piece of fresh young coconut meat, lime leaf and microgreens. Chef’s wine choice was a perennial Canadian star, the tangy, elegant 2020 Old Vines Riesling from Tantalus in B.C.’s Okanagan Valley.

The gold medallist – and also winner of the People’s Choice award – was Bobby Milheron from Homer St. Cafe & Bar, Tableau Bar Bistro, and Maxine’s Cafe & Bar. He turned to the ocean for inspiration. Geoduck can be awfully chewy – Chef Milheron cured his with salt, citrus and sugar, lightly smoked it, poached and then very briefly seared it to a remarkable tenderness. Its subtle marine flavour was echoed in the second element of the dish – a slice of spot prawn held in a matrix of shellfish mousseline, wrapped in bull kelp. Beneath the geoduck was a finger of grated sunchoke cake, creamy inside, crispy on the surface. Pickled bull kelp provided acidity and another taste of the sea. Chef’s sauce was a rich shellfish jus made from kelp and geoduck and he used more sunchokes to make scrumptious crisps. A scattering of intensely flavourful oyster leaves tasted just actual oysters – another marine nuance on this cleverly cross-referential plate. Chef’s wine was the refreshing, dry but fruity 2021 Reserve Rosé from Mission Hill in the Okanagan Valley.

So there we have it. Chef Milheron completes our line-up of champions heading off to Ottawa in February for the gruelling gastronomic trifecta that is the Canadian Culinary Championship. I can hardly wait!