Question: As global warming continues with July 2023 the Earth’s hottest month on record does this mean grape harvests for wine will all be earlier?

Answer: Not necessarily. Beginning of August saw as usual western Sicily start picking sparkling grape varieties and Pinot Grigio – but actually this was later than in 2022. Crop yields in Sicily are down in 2023 with heavy rains in May, downy mildew in June and extreme heat in July, and presently wildfires affecting grape set and “veraison”. Generally August (plus September) is a key month where grape conditions are carefully monitored as ripening continues. However if the flowering and grape development is delayed this usually results in later picking. Much too early to finally assess 2023 harvests but it will be interesting to monitor the many wine regions in the northern hemisphere. Italy’s total harvest will be down due to extreme weather conditions including recently violent hail storms in Lombardy and Veneto, Napa Valley is expecting a possible delay due to a cool wet Spring and heavy losses in Bordeaux for sure because of downy mildew issues. Stay tuned for a really unique vintage year.

Your scribe has a long time passion for the wonderful unique flavours of Summer fruits. This is the season for fresh blueberries, cherries, raspberries, strawberries, melons, apricots, peaches, plums, watermelon, and so many more. Look forward to our local produce of all of them in the marketplaces – as local fresh in your own region is always best. However, perhaps my favourite berry fruit is wild blackberries or brambles. They grow all over the place here in Vancouver and I enjoy the challenge of awaiting their key perfect ripeness and foraging among the thorns picking the best berries. They are delicious on their own or sprinkled on cereal, yogurt, or whatever. We freeze them on trays and store them in plastic bags as well for future use. Some may dislike the seeds but what an amazing flavour and yet so healthy! Feel they really shine best for a dessert and presently are enthralled with both our blackberry crisp and homemade blackberry ice cream – or just as a straight puree with no seeds. Suggest you get out there and harvest some edible wild berries from your own region. Please let us know what you are finding and using.

A tried and true recipe for an easy Blackberry Crisp that we are really enjoying presdently with our freshly picked wild blackberries follows:

BLACKBERRY CRISP
Prepare your topping:
1/2 Cup Walnuts (toasted) and chopped and/or Almonds (toasted)
1/2 Cup Flour
1/3 Cup Oats
1/3 Cup Dark Brown Sugar
1/3 Cup Butter
1/4 teaspoon Salt

Mix dry ingredients for your topping, cut in butter, and set aside.

Preheat Oven to 375F

In a large bowl mix about 4 Cups washed & dried blackberries with 2-3 peaches, peeled , pitted, and sliced. Toss with 1 Tablespoon flour & 1/2 Cup berry sugar. Spread fruit evenly into a baking dish & cover with your topping. Bake for 35-40 minutes until the crisp topping is golden brown & juices bubble up on the sides. Serve hot or cold.

Enjoy!

Question: It is garlic season and I wonder if there is more than one type I should be buying?

Answer: Indeed there is a plethora of garlic varieties. More than you can imagine. Complicated. Different ones are available depending on where you live, the climate where they grow, and what is imported into your marketplace. Smart to know at least the two basics of choice Hardneck (long flowering stem or “scape”) and Softneck (not flowering with softer stalk & leaves). New impressive detailed reference article here from garlicstore.com/garlic-varieties to check out. The famous three-day Gilroy Garlic Festival in California started in 1979 but stopped in 2020 because of the Covid-19 pandemic and now is canceled. Other smaller ones still exist including on August 20 the Richmond (a suburb of Vancouver BC) Garlic Festival by The Sharing Farm Society with a press release here. Interesting to note the 4 distinct varieties they have grown on-site and will have available: Red Russian, Music, Italian Softneck, and Chesnok Red. Do you have a Garlic Festival in your region?

The exciting Vancouver culinary scene includes The Global Restaurant Group under founder and dynamic CEO Emad Yacoub. He has delighted patrons over the years with his many often Italian focused dining spots at all levels from casual Trattoria to more upscale Black + Blue Steakhouse – recently expanded to the old Toronto Stock Exchange with a detailed review here in Toronto Life. Also Global has now taken over the iconic Five Sails restaurant in Vancouver at Canada Place Pier with that panoramic view.

On July 20, 2023 they orchestrated in an almost Tuscan garden setting at Italian Kitchen the wines of Tenuta Luce matched with a brilliantly conceived and delivered menu by Global Executive Chef Matteo Fontana (University of Padova background) and his brigade. Appropriate items to pair with the wines ranged from arancini, vitello tonnato, agnolotti (with a unique cafe au lait sauce), porcini, polenta, Italian cheeses, mostarda, and focaccia. The piece de resistance was an authentic Bistecca Alla Fiorentina so authentically prepared that it made you believe you were in Tuscany. Brought back for your scribe such fond memories of dining with Antinori during the early eighties in the woods outside Florence enjoying BIstecca Alla Fiorentina using specially imported choice beef from Yugoslavia. Well done indeed!

Tenuta Luce knowledgeably represented by Alessandro Lunardi Director for North America (including Ornellaia & Masseto) supplied some excellent wines that highlighted the delicious cuisine showing the differences in the four vintages from 2014-2017. The Vittorio Frescobaldi & Robert Mondavi families envisioned this joint venture started back in 1995 and the wines continue at a high level after nearly 30 years.

ATTEMS PINOT GRIGIO FRUILI DOC typical of the region at fresh 12.5 abv works well as an aperitif or with seafood at fair value.

LUCENTE Toscana IGT 2017 from younger vines was fresh and vibrant in Magnum showing the structure of Sangiovese blended with softer Merlot.

LUCE Toscana IGT 2015 & 2016 were richer fuller showing more depth of fruit. The 2016 had higher grape sugars than 2015 in both Sangiovese & Merlot at harvest but higher acidity with lower pH plus lower 14.8 abv (vs 15). Both drinking well presently but 2015 softer with 2016 more structure with remaining tannins.

BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO DOCG were as required 100% Sangiovese from less celebrated vintages but showing surprising purity and forwardly drinking enjoyment matching perfectly the roasted beef course. The 2014 is a big powerful underrated year at 15.5 abv and the 2017 will improve by further aging with lower abv at 14.5 and much higher balancing acidity for those classy tannins from the Sangiovese grapes and 24 months in Slavonian oak barrels. Like the not aggressive expressions of fine herbs with tobacco complexity finishing on an up-note of aceto balsamico.

A wonderful true Tuscan experience right here in Vancouver!

Question: What is your perception of low/no alcohol wine, and what do you think the future of this segment will look like?

Answer: This is a popular topic and has been referred to here back on July 22, 2015 & more recently here on January 12, 2022. I believe the no/low alcohol wines trend is here to stay. It suits our support for a new “better for you lifestyle”. New Zealand and Australia have been leaders in this area but other countries are quickly following suit now. The New Zealand GIESEN winery has done a great job of establishing the viability of the idea and establishing their Brand! Previously most low alcohol products tasted like diluted simple flat grape juice more than wine. However, their Giesen Non Alcoholic (.5% abv) Sauvignon Blanc shows pure grape variety aromas of grassy herbal notes followed by crisp fresh fruits of a quality wine – with fewer calories and much less alcohol. It is now the #1 selling premium alcohol-removed wine in the USA! The Spinning Cone Technology they have developed is working well. They also now produce Pinot Gris, Dry Rose, Merlot, and Riesling. In Australia Wolf Blass has a much lauded plummy spicy 2021 Zero Shiraz and tropical citrus Lindemans Alcohol Free Semillon/Chardonnay blend from Hunter Valley. IMHO this new category finally is showing some credibility and rapidly expanding which will soon be widely available everywhere at stores (not just wine shops) and on restaurant wine lists. Check them out.