Question: Which wine region has been most affected over the past year by Mother Nature?
Answer: Interesting question with several possible correct answers because Mother Nature seems to be adversely affecting so many vineyards around the world. So many natural key influences on vineyards include frost, hail, drought, climate change, forest fires, smoke, earthquakes, volcanoes, bugs & pests, Covid, etc. Your scribe’s nomination would be Hawke’s Bay on the East coast of the North Island of New Zealand. A tropical Cyclone Gabrielle hit the area this past week causing extensive damage and mass flooding which obviously will affect the 2023 grape harvest. Watch for updated news on the popular tropical Sauvignon Blanc 2023 production plus many vineyards including Esk Valley’s famous limestone hillside “Terraces” and inland warmer iconic Gimblett Gravels. Stay tuned!
There are many lesser known St. Emilion wineries (plus other Right Bank satellite regions) currently releasing top value wines showing forwardly drinking delicious ripe fruit. Seek them out as bargain-priced Bordeaux. However, at the top end it is still rather confusing for the consumer even after the September 2022 Reclassification with now the top 2 wines Premiers Grand Cru Classes A being Figeac & Pavie followed by 12 Premiers Grand Crus Classes B and 71 Grand Cru Classe. The market price doesn’t truly reflect the new classification because several top properties have dropped out including Angelus, Ausone, Cheval Blanc, Croque Michotte, La Gaffeliere, Le Dome, and Tertre Roteboeuf among others. Former star performers like L’Arrosee & Magdelaine have disappeared on mergers into Quintus & Belair-Monange respectively. There is an excellent article on all these St. Emilion changes at www.thewinecellarinsider.com providing more detail.
It is going to be interesting to monitor how the prices of all these St. Emilion wines will be affected (if at all) by the new classification in this current decade. Keep in touch. On February 15, 2023 our Commanderie de Bordeaux Vancouver at Forage Restaurant studied over dinner 7 vintages of Chateau Canon-la-Gaffeliere over a 20 year period from 2009 back to 1989 with a finishing mystery wine. Pleased to see it is now among the 12 Premiers Grand Crus Classes B as is Comtes von Neipperg sister property La Mondotte. Here are some brief impressions:
2009 CANON-LA-GAFFELIERE: Darkest colour. Ripe rich concentrated super smooth. Open cassis fruit and so opulent! Impressive, modern, and delicious. Everyone adored it. 2005 CANON-LA-GAFFELIERE: As expected the most classic with better balance and admirable structure. New oak to advantage. Less showy. For the longer term and probably ultimately will show the best complexity.
2000 CANON-LA-GAFFELIERE: In the 2009 style of flattering softer intense fruit with more tertiary development also on the truffled bouquet. Forwardly with less acidity but on a lovely drinking plateau presently. No rush.
1999 CANON-LA-GAFFELIERE: Lighter vintage but is surprisingly deep with silky charming more defined St. Emilion character. Lovely. Ready to enjoy now.
1998 CANON-LA-GAFFELIERE: Excellent Right Bank vintage and this has interest for sure. Rather minty bitter cherries on the nose showing the Cab Franc in mix with Merlot. Structure & layered sweet depth is OK. Enjoy.
1996 CANON-LA-GAFFELIERE: Somewhat atypical with harder finishing tannins than expected but enough fruit left perhaps to carry it further. May develop more.
1989 CANON-LA-GAFFELIERE: Much lighter with a browning rim. Supple, earthy, and fruit drying out so drink up.
2000 CLOS FOURTET (MYSTERY WINE BLIND): More open juicy Merlot on the bouquet in a more obviously St. Emilion terroir styling. Developing nicely with balanced sweet dense attractive fruit. A different property from the hillside Cotes with higher Merlot in the blend..
Congrats to the von Neipperg family with the results at Canon-la-Gaffeliere (and La Mondotte). Admire what they are accomplishing with the wines through hard work and dedication. The wines since 2005 and especially over this last decade and current releases are superbly well made. Using lots of very old vines plus certified organic in 2014 so all vintage since are real collectable treasures. Well done.
Question: Do you prefer drinking Pet-Nat wines clear or with the sediment haze?
Answer: First of all I admit to not being the biggest fan of sparkling Pet-Nat (petillant naturel) with no disgorgement. They can be a lot of fun but your scribe doesn’t really like their unpredictability. There are some lovely ones out there to discover which I prefer to drink clear avoiding the yeasty sediment that with time for the bottle standing up usually sinks to the bottom. Others (including some winemakers) prefer tasting the uniquely natural richer body and texture of that hazy deposit. I believe it is a very personal decision with Pet-Nat wines.
Relais & Chateau is a brand established in France nearly 70 years ago with a mission statement “to spread its unique art de vivre across the globe by selecting outstanding properties with a truly unique character.” Their motto has been the important five C’s of Calm, Character, Charm, Courtesy, and Cuisine. It has been a most successful idea based on high quality core values recognizing so many top establishments around the world. In these changing times Wedgewood Hotel & Spa (a Relais & Chateau member) in Vancouver has provided a beacon of genuine warmth in their hospitality, service and value. An important contribution has been the hands-on family-run passionate dedication of co-owner & managing director Elpie Marinakis, Hotel Manager Jean-Michel Tanguy, and the entire talented service team in making sure the five C’s are constantly met. Another key factor at the moment is the under-rated outstanding quality of the food under the guidance of Chef-in-Residence, the brilliant Rob Feenie, Chef de Cuisine Jason Baker and their skilled brigade. Rob Feenie is preparing now for his culinary evolution from his successful Cactus Club innovations into later this year some new Feenie’s 2.0 locations and another flagship-like Lumiere. Presently at Bacchus in the Wedgewood it is a return to Relais & Chateau for Rob (a recognition he held with Lumiere in its glory years) inspiring and raising the always high quality of the cuisine to even higher levels.
Your scribe attended dinner on February 8 and was impressed indeed by the food, wine-matching ideas, and attentive insightful service. So many tasty courses presented – some were Rob Feenie nostalgic classics tweaked to a more refined style – such as the ravioli, the Lois Lake Steelhead, and the remarkable short rib. Is Bacchus ever on an exciting cuisine evolution! Congrats to Elpie and everyone on the Wedgewood Hotel & Spa team – a precious jewel of excellence in Vancouver for the prestigious Relais & Chateaux brand.
Answer: It is the local name used in Montepulciano for a clone of the Sangiovese grape variety that produces the increasingly popular red wine Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG ( and Rosso di Montepulciano DOC) in Tuscany, Italy.
