The 2003 vintage in Europe was a harbinger of the warmer weather that was to come in the future. A rather controversial wine year in 2003 on release everywhere including Bordeaux and Burgundy. Winemakers now are well prepared with a better grasp than they did 20 years ago of what is required in both the vineyards and the cellar to make successful balanced wines in hot conditions. The extreme conditions from the very high temperatures in the growing season of 2003 did result in some overripe low acidity wines that overwhelmed the terroir definition that is always so much admired. In Bordeaux the clay soils of St. Estephe helped the vines get enough moisture and with the later ripening Cabernet Sauvignon in Pauillac & St. Julien produced some wonderful wines for longer ageing compared to the Right Bank. Similarly in Burgundy many top producers took advantage of the conditions to make ripe rich creamy concentrated Pinot Noir with enough structure and depth to develop with cellaring. The early initial lower ratings for the uneven quality of then higher alcohol 2003s are being revised as the reality is that some properties have produced excellent wine.

Therefore it was with anticipation that the Vancouver Group of Eight met on October 7, 2025 for Event #135 at Blue Water Cafe to assess and enjoy nine highly regarded red Burgundy properties over a wonderful dinner prepared by talented Executive Chef Frank Pabst and his brigade.

We started with 2008 VEUVE CLICQUOT PONSARDIN LA GRANDE DAME BRUT the first one from winemaker Dominique Dermarville from this classic year with the highest percentage of Pinot Noir at 92 & 8 Chardonnay all Grand Cru vineyards. Impressed how fresh and youthful it tasted with fuller depth plus elegance as it developed in the glass. Delicious. Exquisite with the stylish scallop starter. No rush. We finished up with 2009 CHATEAU RIEUSSEC SAUTERNES full rich sweet caramel notes that was smartly paired with a dessert featuring pineapple, mango, and coconut macaroon. The main event was these nine high classified 2003 red Burgundies in two flights:

First Flight:

2003 CLOS SAINT-DENIS GRAND CRU NICOLAS POTEL: Terroir leans to floral red fruits charming aromatics with silkier tannins. Here shows a paler browning rim. This had more punching down extraction than some but not enough fruit is left. Dry. Coarser. Drink up.

2003 CLOS DE TART GRAND CRU MOMMESSIN: A favourite property of your scribe. See previous write-ups of May 20, 2024 & December 12, 2016 linked here. Known for finesse & elegance with complex bouquet and rich balance. Very dark deep look. Evolving much better showing dense rounding fruit with nine more years of bottle age than in my 2106 note. Not the classic style of 2005, 1990, or 1985 but drinking very well at higher 14.5 abv. Ian Mottershead captured it with his comment “Don’t dismiss it by extract alone because it is a lovely wine.” Really enjoyed this wine more with the special pasta course.

2003 CLOS-VOUGEOT GRAND CRU VIEILLES VIGNES CHÂTEAU DE LA TOUR: Label lists Proprietaires J. Labet & N. Dechelette but is run by Francois Labet and son Edouard. Beautifully situated big property just below the Chateau organic since 1992. Impressive view of the vineyards from this winery which shows in the background of my personal photo on this Blog site. Makes 3 Cuvees of Classic, VV (our selection) and Hommage Jean Morin (specially picked for one bunch near the stock of each vine for more density). Opinions varied with Blair Curtis “favourite of first flight”, Bill Knutson “lacks depth”, and yours truly “Paler edge, stylish, delicious flavours but a little bit too light”. Says only 13 abv. Surprised because on another occasion the 2003 Classic seemed to me very ripe and thick. Likely to encounter some bottle variation.

2003 ECHEZEAUX GRAND CRU DOMAINE DES PERDRIX: Heaviest bottle weight by far states Mis en Bouteille Par B. et C. Devillard at 13.8 abv. This has been A. Rodet of the Devillard family since 1986. Choice property with clay along with limestone in mostly Dessus that suited the hot conditions of 2003. Dark red to the rim with an excellent fruit bouquet. Underrated improved property with lower yields that combines power with stylish delicacy and finesse. Threw the most sediment left thickly all in the punt of the bottle. Your scribe’s fav of the First Flight.

Second Flight:

2003 LATRICIÈRES-CHAMBERTIN GRAND CRU LOUIS JADOT: Latin for “Nothing Much” but misnamed. Much to like in this negociant offering from Jadot. Spicy, earthy, less body but always from a cooler less tannic site than Mazis. Stylish & balanced for current enjoyment.

2003 GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN CLOS ST JACQUES 1ER CRU VIEILLE VIGNE DOMAINE FOURRIER: Outstanding site of near Grand Cru classification. Producer of one of the only five vineyard strips in Clos St Jacques of old vines south facing running horizontally down the hill next to Rousseau to the west. Unfortunately this bottle started out rather musty on the nose. Cleared somewhat with time and airing but earthy green herbal notes (not jammy) and admirable structure is the best part. Imported by Rosenthal Wine Merchant New York. Try another bottle for an expected better showing.

2003 CHAMBERTIN-CLOS-DE-BEZE GRAND CRU BOUCHARD PÈRE & FILS: Great site shows well with the south part having more marl in the soil even better. Good bright deep young red right to the rim. Tad exotic spice on the nose but is still rather closed in. Like the impressive concentration without being over the top. Rather classic. Well done. Needs more time to develop complexity.

2003 LE CORTON GRAND CRU BOUCHARD PÈRE & FILS: Another one both at 13.5 abv from this outstanding house with nine generations of experience. Now owned by Groupe Artemis Domaines (Francois Pinault Family) see my recent visit Link October 21, 2024 here. Dark deep intense fruit not open completely but amazing wine. Admire the full rich fruit that is most backward of the tasting. Long ways to go but optimistic it will come around as 20+ years is not enough. Two beauties from Bouchard are still developing and successful in the difficult vintage.

2003 RICHEBOURG GRAND CRU DOMAINE MÉO-CAMUZET: Excellent wine from Jean-Nicolas Meo at only 13 abv. Check out our recent Vosne-Romanee Aux Brulees vertical from them in my February 10, 2025 Blog linked here. The 2003 of Aux Brulees didn’t show nearly as perfectly as this Richebourg. Good comparison of Richebourg styles from verticals of M-C & DRC (but no 2003) linked here on August 10, 2020.

Meo-Camuzet smartly started harvest early on August 28 eliminating the shrivelled raisin grapes. What a success. Open exotic complex fruit (without stems) of beautiful cherries and subtle spices. Like the minerals with the velvety textures. A treat for sure. Wine of the Night. Shows that some outstanding wine was made in 2003!

A few closing comments. Your scribe preferred the second flight a lot more than the first one but some felt they were very similar in their high quality. Kudos to Melissa Lu Assistant Wine Director at Blue Water Cafe (and more often by Wine Director Calen Macdonald) for doing an exemplary job in slowly carefully decanting all nine red Burgundies without any fine sediment appearing in the wine glass. What a joy to enjoy the special silky textures of these great wines with no interfering small particle notes. Congrats indeed. Blair summed the tasting up appropriately with his comment “2003 didn’t mask the distinct terroirs as much as I expected. Impressed.”

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Question: Any new ideas about using AI for insights into fine wines?

Answer: For sure inroads are being made for the use of Artificial Intelligence in the wine industry. Lots of us have experience with ChatGPT for wine note descriptions – instead of those from a real wine critic. The latest intriguing idea I have seen is Preferabli.com who have Sensorial AI with a better database that is useful for the wine industry – and food & hospitality in general. Intriguing how it finds wines that suit your own preferences for bouquet and taste. Very personal in the recommendations found. Check it out. Also a helpful recent article on them in The Drinks Business here.

All us oenophiles enjoy the opportunity to learn more about wine. This is helped out a lot when the organizer of an event chooses wines with something in common but also allows for comparisons.

We are fortunate with the Vancouver Branch of the Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin to have Cellarmaster Blair Curtis and his team acquire, organize, and select excellent groupings from the cellar inventory for our events.

On September 30, 2025 was another example of that for a Black Tie Induction stellar dinner by talented Chef Alex Kim and brigade at Five Sails Restaurant featuring three well organized most interesting flights of Burgundy.

We started with an aperitif of DRAPPIER CARTE D’OR BRUT from a major family Aube producer in Urville at the heart of the Cote des Bar since 1808 claiming to be the first Carbon Neutral Champagne House. Grown on southern vineyards with a sustainable and organic ethos of Jurassic Kimmeridgian limestone and chalk (similar to Chablis) they blend 80% Pinot Noir, 15% Chardonnay and 5% Meunier using 40% Reserve wines with a liqueur matured in wood for 6.5 g/l dosage on disgorgement 2/19. Shows rich full bodied spicy notes with some creamy complex character from six years of bottle age suitably paired with hors d’oeuvre plus exquisite bonus scallop course. We finished with 2003 CHATEAU DOISY-DAENE BARSAC planted 86/14 Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc with more forwardly ripe soft sweet syrupy notes than usual from this hotter early picked vintage.

The three flights of Burgundy provided lots of insights into three producers and lots of vintages to compare – especially six consecutive red Burgundy years from 2009 to 2014 inclusive. Some thoughts:

First Flight White Burgundy BALLOT-MILLOT MEURSAULT CHARMES 2015 & 2013 with shrimp & caviar. Underrated family producer with older vines using organic practices with Raymond, Philippe, and since 2000 Charles Ballot producing improved quality with lovely purity restrained oak treatment with no battonage and less intervention in vinification. Both vintages showed fresh precise definition with 2015 warmer year of richer fatter fuller weight concentration while 2013 older but even more fresh lively exuberance and structured complex elegance from a cooler year which your scribe preferred. Reminds me of their excellent 2017 Meursaults – especially the older vines in Genevrieres. Like the intensity and length of pure flavours they are obtaining from their well situated vineyards. The Charmes plot is in the upper part with Lafon. Top producer to follow.

Second Flight featured 3 vintages of CHAMBOLLE MUSIGNY village wine from DOMAINE GHISLAINE BARTHOD. Gaston Barthod from the Jura married into the Noellat family and daughter Ghislaine (married to Louis Boillot) apprenticed with them in the eighties and eventually developed her own respected Domaine. In the old days they admired in Chambolle Musigny only Les Charmes Premier Cru as best and other holdings were not promoted. Now they are advocates of Les Cras, Les Fuees and many other Premier Crus. Fun to compare 2011, 2010, and 2009 of just the AC wine from nine parcels in the region that is a fav of your scribe for charm, grace, elegance, and delicate sensuous textures from more limestone soils.

2011: Palest colour. Open nose and forwardly giving from earlier picking. Lovely alive and stylish but a drier lighter thinner peppery finish. Improves when enjoyed with this outstanding duck breast course.

2010: Brightest clear dark red look from a smaller crop. Sensual gentle classic energy, balance, with noble intensity. Brilliant refined example of the outstanding terroir with so much charm. Excellent future.

2009: Darkest deepest one. Rich big fruit is much sweeter, soft and rounder with admirable length. Buckets of attractive ripe Pinot Noir that can be enjoyed now or cellared for a different aged more complex tertiary expression. Impressive juice.

Third Flight of different LOUIS JADOT PREMIER CRU vineyards from 2014, 2013, and 2012 to compare:

2014 NUITS ST. GEORGES LES BOUDOTS DOM. GAGEY: Lightest colour of a mid-weight vintage. Bit earthy and less weighty from a bigger crop that favoured whites. Typical NSG but lacks intensity and depth so drink currently.

2013 SAVIGNY-LES-BEAUNE LA DOMINODE: Lovely red look with some depth from my favourite vineyard in SLB – especially good value Pavelot. Less consistent challenging year than 2014 with a later harvest. The 2010 & 2009 of this vineyard sings wonderfully from several producers with better fruit. Some classy notes but not perfectly balanced. More enjoyable with the superb lamb & truffle main course.

2012 VOSNE-ROMANEE LES BEAUX MONTS: Darkest deepest from best vintage of this flight from thick skins, smaller grapes plus from the best prestigious vineyard. Overwhelming has more concentrated fruit and complexity. Admire the smooth satin textures and persistent long flavours. No rush. A winner!

Well-organized event and many lessons learned. Many thanks.

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Question: Why with time do white wines get darker but red wines get lighter?

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Over the past decades several Bordeaux wine properties have been recognized for producing the very best quality for a most reasonable price paid. Certainly there are some Cru Bourgeois plus wines listed in the 1855 Bordeaux Classification and outside it that have and continue to provide good value. However it is hard to find one as universally accepted as value for price as the Second Growth Chateau Leoville Barton from Saint-Julien. This Estate has been continuously owned over 200 years by the Barton family dynasty (early wine merchants from Ireland with Thomas Barton arriving in Bordeaux in 1725) with the smart purchase by Hugh Barton of Langoa property in 1821 followed by 25% of the Leoville property in 1826. Ronald Barton (1902-1986) arrived in 1924 and retired in 1984 after 60 years at the helm. Anthony Barton (1930-2022) followed his uncle Ronald starting in 1983 with revitalizing the vineyards and cleaning up/modernizing the cellars. Anthony has been followed by his daughter Lilian (Lily) Barton-Sartorius and her children the 10th generation with Melanie Barton-Sartorius & Damien Barton-Sartorius. What an amazing family history that really needs celebrating!

On September 23, 2025 the Vancouver Group of Eight held Event #134 at Blue Water Cafe with a fantastic five decade retrospective of nine vintages from 2003 back to 1966 of Chateau Leoville Barton. All wines had been cellared well since their initial release being provided from one source namely yours truly. They were all served professionally by Blue Water Sommelier staff at the same cool temperature for assessment decanted just immediately before table service. My impressions on the wines:

We started with NV DE SAINT-GALL GRAND CRU LE BLANC DE BLANCS EXTRA BRUT from the super Coop founded in 1966 as Union Champagne in Avize of only Grand Cru & Premier Cru growers now numbering around 2300. Good to remember there are only 17 Grand Cru of 100% rated vineyards and 44 Premier Cru rated 99%-90% (7500 acres of 1er Cru representing 22% of total Champagne vineyards). This bottle recently acquired at the Paris Duty Free was fresh apple lemon delicate of 100% Chardonnay pure fruit capturing the terroir stony minerality of top vineyards with minimal sugar but still a bit too young. Good value. Their Prestige Orpale, tasted recently, is all Grand Cru Chardonnay on its lees for 12 years with a more creamy complex statement.

We finished with a historic bottle of 1976 HUGEL GEWURZTRAMINER SELECTION DE GRAINS NOBLES (SELECTION FUT 20 PAR JEAN HUGEL). The Hugel house in Riquewihr Alsace has been producing wine there over 380 years (since 1639). MIchael Broadbent reports that Pioneer Jean Hugel told his son Johnny that 1976 was a great perfect vintage for rich late harvest wines that never in his life had he seen better grapes so “he had better not make a mess of them.” Johnny told me his best barrel was Fut 20 and sent us this showing exceptionally high natural sugar 100% botrytis affected grapes being so openly fragrant on the bouquet of fresh ripe honeyed spicy peach and syrupy figs. Almost the best liqueur possible at only 13.7 abv. At 50 years of age a memorable wine treasure indeed!

2003 LEOVILLE BARTON SAINT-JULIEN: Estate has an admirable forest land and sustainable philosophy growing roughly 72CS/20M/8CF from vineyards behind the town running west towards Talbot with the wine made at Langoa. Used here 74/23/3 blend (Langoa 57/34/9) picked September 11-22 using 70% new oak. This hot year vintage had heat spikes with 16 days over 95F (compared to 2009/4days, 2005/6 days, and 2000/2days) but is excellent with lower acidity and higher tannins. Really captures the pure savoury Cab Sauv styling of Barton with that smoky black currant cigar box statement. Big success in 2003. Highly recommended

1995 LEOVILLE BARTON SAINT-JULIEN: More 78CS/19M/3CF with dark colour showing some dense raspberry and herbal tobacco notes but still somewhat backward slow evolving. Typically Barton of young energy restrained concentrated claret that needs patience as has big tannins when young – or 30 years old. Potential there.

1990 LEOVILLE BARTON SAINT-JULIEN: Tasted this vintage many times. Usually outstanding intense full bodied 70CS/25M/5CF always improving. This is not the best bottle of 1990 as it surprises your scribe with lighter rim than 1989 and more forwardly open bouquet of property medicinal iodine trademark. Still fresh and wonderful but less tannic than the previous usual riper sweet rich tannins bottles. Beauty. Variation.

1989 LEOVILLE BARTON SAINT-JULIEN: Very dark and deep right to the rim. Surprised that it is less open than 1990 but has concentrated elegance. Same Bordeaux blend as 1990 but very good rich bottle here. No rush.

1986 LEOVILLE BARTON SAINT-JULIEN: Know this vintage of Barton so well and 1986 never disappoints. Still so young with 78CS/20M/2CF concentrated powerhouse of cassis licorice with an unlimited future. Acquire some of this at auction. Fabulous already but will become even more complex with further cellaring. Bought in January 1990 for the steal price of $13.33! A winner.

1982 LEOVILLE BARTON SAINT JULIEN: Blend was 72CS/20M/8CF but shows that rustic note from unclean cellars. Classic St. Julien fruit underneath. Fred Withers found it “more cloudy with wet cardboard”. Historic vintage in 1982 but this is not clean enough. Anthony Barton always told me (with John Avery on many visits) that “it is more rustic than modern vintages and with no new oak”. When I told him his wine was always selling too cheaply priced he retorted that “he is reasonable but others are too expensive”. He told Ian Mottershead on his low pricing question that “I make enough”. What a great family attitude. Anthony won the Decanter Man of the Year in 2007 and was declared as the “Consumer Champion – not the Speculator.” 1982 disappoints for the overall quality of the vintage.

1975 LEOVILLE BARTON SAINT-JULIEN: Under rated St. Julien from a difficult overly tannic year now mature. Red with a paling edge with that typical identity mark of medicinal iodine. Ian found “cigar-box with 1975 leanness in the old style of St. Julien”. Needs drinking up at 50.

1970 LEOVILLE BARTON SAINT-JULIEN: Good bottle of Barton at 55 years! Always had the most fruit intensity in 1970 of the Leoville trio over Las Cases & Poyferre. Old interesting classic claret holding well for sure. Some lovely spices on the nose of cinnamon & sweet basil are complex and enticing. Bought for $12.60.

1966 LEOVILLE BARTON SAINT JULIEN: Surprise of the night! Amazing outstanding bouquet of cigar box autumn sous-bois and taste of magnificent sweet toffee. Nearly 60 but fresh with defined St Julien poise and length of flavour. Bought for $8.95 in the good old days. Certainly helped to last by the Michael Broadbent description of “1966 long distance runner acidity”. You perhaps have to appreciate lighter no fruit left wines but with complexity to admire the height of this enjoyment given but search for it. Worth it! My last bottles of 1975, 1970, and 1966 but lots of delightful dining with them at dinner over many decades at different stages of development. More bottle variation in the 60s, 70s, and early 80s than afterwards. Both an education and an aged treat. Support Leoville Barton.

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