La Commanderie de Bordeaux Vancouver held a dinner on October 26th at Five Sails Restaurant comparing top Left Bank wines from the 1995 & 1996 vintage. Chef Alex Kim had just won the Great Kitchen Party as BC rep for the upcoming Canadian Culinary Championship in Ottawa January 31 & February 1, 2025 with his three ingredient seafood terrine that included a superb scallop mousseline. Accordingly, there was an extra buzz in the dining room and excited anticipation to try his seared Hokkaido Scallop dish with two mature white Bordeaux plus the Duck & Venison courses to follow.
Initially 1995 was touted as a Merlot year (and especially favouring the Right Bank) while 1996 was a top Cabernet Sauvignon (CS) year (excellent in the upper Left Bank).
Now approaching 30 years of age these two vintages can’t be summarized quite that simply and vary considerably by Chateau. Remember that 1995 came after four disappointing years (1991-1994) with early September rains so tended to be overrated early on – sort of like 1975 (after lesser 1972-74). 1995 Merlots and Right Bank can be very good though watch out for some diluted earlier picked examples and choose those with more Cabernet Franc. Many of the Left Bank CS were harvested after the September rains resulting in riper but austere quite tannic wines that require patience.
On the other hand, the 1996 vintage can be outstanding particularly in the northern Left Bank where way less Fall rain occurred and sometimes are compared with the slow developing 1986s.
Both have good structure and are now showing encouraging development for wonderful enjoyment on the plateau of long lives in bottle.
The aperitif of DELAMOTTE BRUT CHAMPAGNE was solidly brisk and enhanced by two lovely canapes of Kisu oysters delightful with yuzu and the best arancini possible of sweet tasty Dungeness crab. The Scallops exceeded the anticipation by being so delicious with the two Pessac-Leognan whites. Two different styles of the richer, more body but simpler 2015 CARBONNIEUX (a late substitution for the 2014 La Louviere) and the leaner yet more acid balanced complex textured 2014 SMITH HAUT LAFITTE both paired well with the seafood.
A few impressions on the two flights of red Bordeaux comparing 1995 to 1996:
1995 CHÂTEAU BARON DE PICHON-LONGUEVILLE PAUILLAC There was bottle variation but best made a lush softer delicious statement for easy current drinking with 35% Merlot much more than their recent vintages. Perfect match with the flavourful duck dish.
1995 CHATEAU PONTET-CANET PAUILLAC Darker younger look. Better structure and power complexity. This successful 1995 is pure lovely silk now but no rush. Clearly best of first flight of 1995 but perhaps presently not as multi dimensional as elegant Lynch Bages & exciting Leoville Las Cases. Underrated.
1995 CHÂTEAU GRUAUD LAROSE SAINT-JULIEN During the transition period when purchased in 1997 by Jacques Merlaut (Chasse Spleen). One bottle was badly corked resulting in a smaller pour. Much lighter fruit and simpler. Enjoyable.
1996 CHÂTEAU RAUZAN-SEGLA MARGAUX More Margaux styling. Lighter rim showing age. Less body but the fragrant flowers are most attractive. A surprise glass of 1995 CHÂTEAU PALMER from a guest showed way younger with also lots of Merlot in the blend but with that signature floral complex bouquet.
1996 CHÂTEAU GRAND-PUY-LACOSTE PAUILLAC Darkest deepest colour. Textbook classic cedar Pauillac nose is very impressive! Most CS in the blend is noticeable and with excellent structure. Will age well. Wine of the night for your scribe.
1996 CHÂTEAU LEOVILLE POYFERRE SAINT-JULIEN Also very dark. Less bouquet but a big mouthful of amazing supple round flavours with depth and a contribution from Petit Verdot. More forwardly drinking. Well done for sure. A lot of group support for this wine too.
Venison is a chef fav as low in fat makes it a challenge to prepare a point but not overcook. Usually not a fav of your scribe but this one was sensationally done. I was so inspired I did get up at the event and tell the chef just that. Kudos to his whole culinary team for a great meal. Also a deep bow of respect to Global Wine Director Sarah McCauley who carefully orchestrated the outstanding wine service all at perfect temperatures. Very well done indeed. Much appreciated.
2020 CHÂTEAU COUTET BARSAC For a change served a current Sauternes vintage to assist members not only in wine education but purchasing availability. Lots of sweeter youthful passion fruit, pineapple, apricots, mango, and tangerine peel to already enjoy so fresh without changing with bottle age.
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