One of the most frequent questions your scribe receives on our Wednesday weekly feature of Ask Sid is “What are the best red Burgundy values? ” My usual answer over the years has been to look for the 3 key factors of Vintage, Producer, and Region. In the past it was recommending the 2005 (also 2009/2010/2015) Vintage from a quality Producer from AC village sites. Of course less expensive regions with Premier Crus also come to mind like Savigny-Les-Beaune (especially La Dominode). All of this came back to me last week while enjoying at home a roasted pheasant dish paired with a bottle of 2005 GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN DOMAINE ALAIN JEANNIARD. This was a brilliant match as waiting nearly 20 years for the powerful structured tannins of 2005 to melt away successfully left a stunning bouquet with round silky textures. A wise investment. Previously divine matching with fresh quail. Bought also their more forwardly 2006 and the two vintages of Morey-Saint-Denis AC as well all of which provided enjoyable earlier drinking pleasures. The producer Alain Jeanniard made an initial name for himself from 2000-2006 with viticulture for the Hospices de Beaune wines in Clos de la Roche & Mazis-Chambertin – and his own family Domaine. Smart purchases that with consumer patience brought wonderful satisfaction at a bargain price.
What about red Burgundy purchases today? IMHO the same principles apply but because of the increased prices of all Burgundy – including popular AC village wines – it is necessary to go further afield. Santenay and Maranges have become more popular areas. My favs are the regions that previously were a bit too cool to fully ripen but now are thriving with global warming. Best examples are the adjacent neighbours of coveted Clos St. Jacques: Lavaux St. Jacques to the West & Les Cazetiers to the East. Even Estournelles, Poissenot, and Les Veroilles further West & Combe aux Moines, Les Goulots, and Champeaux further East now are worth exploring. My go to purchases have been Hautes-Cotes de Nuits (and Cotes de Nuits-Village) for good value. A wine like 2019 BOURGOGNE ROUGE HAUTES COTES DE NUITS AU VALLON DOMAINE MICHEL GROS fills the bill. A big fan of the ageability of the 2019 reds and this Domaine pioneered these regions with early eighties plantings at higher elevations including Monopole Fontaine Saint Martin. Since 2015 they have also produced Au Vallon from the top of this formerly cooler site on top of the Cote d’Or escarpment. Domaine Alain Jeanniard and other producers have wines from this expanding region. These currently are the kind of wines to seek out for the best quality for the price value with some aging ability to resemble the higher priced Grand & Premier Crus – and now Village ACs. Good luck in your shopping!
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The January 2024 deep freeze of temperatures in the high -20sC (following the cold December 2022 one) destroyed so many vines in the Okanagan vineyards. The damage has been so extensive that many wineries are expecting no wine production from Okanagan grapes this year. Many grape varieties have been affected including so many successful Pinot Noirs. Winemaker Grant Stanley & Owner Bill Knutson of outstanding Spearhead Winery report 100% loss of Estate pinot noir grapes in 2024. Perhaps the hardest hit grape variety has been Syrah. Severine Pinte, talented winemaker/viticulturist of both Le Vieux Pin in Oliver & La Stella in Osoyoos calls it “catastrophic”.
Will they risk replanting their fantastic Syrah or not?
It is a real dilemma for wineries as the marginal grapes like Syrah that have been so successful up till now are the most vulnerable to these increasing winter freezes. Where does Syrah go from here? For the wine consumer the decisions to be made are much easier. Buy now all the Syrah (and Pinot Noir) from the Okanagan that you are able to find in your local marketplace. Supplies will continue to be way down and demand will be way up pushing prices even higher. This buy recommendation comes from wide experience by your scribe in tasting many vintages of Syrah produced in British Columbia over the past few years. What amazes me the most is that some of the most successful and best aging ones are quite inexpensive. In fact all Okanagan Syrah is very good value. This was an undiscovered success story gathering momentum but now has been roadblocked.
Among the best Syrah for aging has been CHABERTON ESTATE WINERY from the Fraser Valley but accessing top Syrah fruit from the Okanagan Valley. Not surprising as the co-owner (with retired Vancouver respected lawyer Eugene Kwan) is Hong Kong businessman Anthony Cheng – a red Rhone admirer and keen wine aficionado. They developed an excellent Reserve Syrah under the “Canoe Cove” label with a Chinese character stylized seal meaning “Superior” by calligrapher Tang Cheong Shing. Tasted recently the 2006 & 2004 vintages that both showed an amazing complex bouquet textbook Syrah definition. Chaberton accurately described it as “The strong varietal characteristics of blackberry, cherry and plum harmonize perfectly with a spicy cinnamon, dark chocolate and smooth vanilla finish. ” Surprising ageability! The more current vintages of 2016-2019 (shorter heavier bottle with black label) continue in this same vein with riper fruit:
2016: 100% Syrah from Okanagan Valley in Oliver at Desert Hills. Juciy plums with smoky cloves on the nose plus smooth flavours with a touch of white pepper at 13.6 abv
2017: Similar with more cinnamon easier drinking at 13.4 abv
2018: Fuller blackberry/cherry notes with more black pepper spice is big and rich at 14.7 abv
2019: Aged 26 months in new oak barrels is toasty but with lots of big fruit mocha pepper notes with a touch of elegance at 14.2 abv. $32.
Another Okanagan Syrah falling under the radar has been SANDHILL Syrah Terroir Driven Wine. The 2015 was selected out of 600+ wines from 85 wineries and from all the Platinum medals for the very top Premier’s Award at the BC Wine Awards in 2017. What amazing value under $30 Canadian! Tried the 2015 & the 2018 Sandhill Syrah recently and they indeed are big fruit value for the money. No rush. Good luck in searching for our diminishing Okanagan Syrah!
