Ask Sid: 1990 or 1989 vintage for Margaux?

by Joseph Temple
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Question: Do you prefer the 1990 or 1989 Vintage for Margaux?
Answer: Two excellent hotter twin years for Bordeaux wines. Not sure if you are asking for the Margaux appellation generally or specifically Chateau Margaux. For the latter your scribe prefers the outstanding 1990 Chateau Margaux. However, for neighbouring Chateau Palmer prefers the wonderful 1989 over the 1990. Hard to give an over all answer and is better to go property by property in Margaux AC for both vintages.
1989 is also the preferred choice for the Pessac-Leognan region with stars Haut-Brion & La Mission Haut-Brion.
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BOUCHARD PERE EMPHASIS BY NEW OWNER ARTEMIS IS ON DOMAINE BURGUNDY OF HIGHEST QUALITY

by Joseph Temple

Groupe Artemis Domaines (Francois Pinault Family) has really grown since their original acquisition forty years ago of Chateau Latour in Pauillac to a most impressive portfolio of great wines from around the world. The emphasis now is definitely only on top domaine vineyards and a current focus is very much Burgundy. Frederic Engerer (long time Chateau Latour manager) Directeur General of Artemis Domaines has been spending a lot of time this year outside Bordeaux in Burgundy dealing with Clos de Tart, Domaine d’Eugenie, and Bouchard Pere & Fils. Your scribe attended an outstanding dinner held at Bouchard Pere in Beaune on May 17, 2024 hosted by Groupe Artemis with Frederic Engerer, talented Cellar Master Frederic Weber, and the new team. Some impressions:

Aperitif of their CUVEE 747 CHAMPAGNE JACQUESSON (better expresses their goal for 100% domaine vineyards than the sold off Henriot brand) is fresh and lively based on the 2019 vintage blend of 45% Chardonnay, 31 Pinot Noir & 24 Pinot Meunier disgorged after 4 years en tirage in December 2023 with low extra brut dosage of only 1.5 g/l perfectly matched with sushi, gougere, and excellent pigeon foie gras terrine.

Four whites from two excellent vintages in two flights followed:

2009 MEURSAULT PERRIERES PREMIER CRU MAGNUM

2009 CHEVALIER-MONTRACHET LA CABOTTE GRAND CRU MAGNUM

Seated next to Frederic Weber originally from Alsace who has been at Bouchard Pere for 21 years first working with Philippe Prost before succeeding him as as winemaker in 2014. He advised that the team picked the warmer rich 2009 vintage grapes earlier to seek a better fresh balance in the wines (though 2009 is a tad softer than 2010, incredible 2014, 2017, and underrated 2020) but no rush in magnum. Frederic feels strongly that Perrieres is always their best Meursault blended from 3 parcels combining outstanding fruit, balance and minerality. Leaner than the more substantial special cuvee La Cabotte carved out of Chevalier showing that full complex depth signature. Both paired beautifully with Bluefin Tuna (Thon Rouge) prepared two ways.

Second white flight from different terroirs and 19 years older:

1990 CORTON-CHARLEMAGNE GRAND CRU MAGNUM

1990 MONTRACHET GRAND CRU MAGNUM

This 1990 vintage was also a warm riper year both now showing more colour at 34 years of age but neither oxidized or maderized. Interesting pairing with the fresher elegant more mineral impressive C-C holding-its-own against tougher more expensive company of Montrachet which is fuller, richer, solid, rounder and smoother. Both mature with long finishes. What a treat to drink them with a delicious stuffed fresh morel mushroom, greem asparagus, “oeuf parfait” and bouillon of Tio-Pepe.

The seven reds spotlighted some of their choice domaine vineyards with four for a horizontal from the classic 2005 vintage and a three for a vertical of best Beaune:

2005 BEAUNE CLOS DE LA MOUSSE “MONOPOLE” PREMIER CRU MAGNUM
2005 VOLNAY LES CAILLERETS “ANCIENNE CUVEE CARNOT” 1er Cru MAG
2005 LE CORTON GRAND CRU MAGNUM
2005 CLOS DE TART “MONOPOLE” GRAND CRU
1967 MAGNUM, 1962, & 1947:
BEAUNE-GREVES VIGNE DE L’ENFANT JESUS PREMIER CRU

These reds were fantastic heightened by the superb main course of low temperature cooked Supreme of Bresse Poularde, green asparagus, seasonal vegetables, and Madeira sauce. The great 2005s are starting to show some tertiary notes as they approach 20 years of age with good value red fruits Beaune most ready followed as expected by the elegant savoury Volnay (first plot planted in 1775). The Le Corton has more youthful depth and Cotes de Nuits Clos de Tart has brilliant structure and full young fruit concentration all in balance – most impressive future even in 750 ml. while three Cotes de Beaune are all in larger Mag format.

The last three reds were served blind. The 1967 looked old and very light colour with some sediment in the glass. All dinner wines were served in narrower but mouth-blown French delicate Sydonis glasses that worked quite well.

Guessed 1957 or 1953 Beaune-Greves (right on the terroir) because quite pale browning look even in Mag. Seemed older than a 1967 but when disclosed could see that a lesser vintage like 1967 is possible as the fruit has dried out and the acidity is prominent. Ready or slightly past it.

The 1962 had way more younger red colour left with a beautiful open very tertiary bouquet to be admired. Obviously a better vintage served after the first one. Guessed 1962 or 1959 for the smooth silky tasty lovely true flavours!

The 1947 was darkest of all three wines served blind but has complex aged development. Mature, concentrated, smooth, intense, powerful big palate. Would be right on for one of those top years from the forties – say 1949 or 1947. Might be a Cotes de Nuits with this fuller style but more likely a historic year for the vertical – of what we believe is their age worthy Beaune-Greves. This bottle shows a bit of Volatile Acidity coming through that adds support for one of those hotter years. Smart guess.

Wonderful to be assured of Bouchard Pere’s continued excellence and the bright future ahead under Groupe Artemis. Expecting Bouchard Pere and Frederic Weber to be focusing even more on Cotes de Beaune domaine properties and Domaine d’Eugenie (with Clos de Tart) for the Cotes de Nuits. Exciting.

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Ask Sid: What grape variety was thought to be extinct?

by Joseph Temple
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Question: What grape variety was thought to be extinct?

Answer: Probably quite a few recently have resurfaced. Spain comes to mind through the efforts of Torres. However, the best well known one that now is thriving is Carmenere. Wiped out in France by Phyloxera it has been rediscovered there. Mistaken in Chile until 1994 as Merlot it is becoming increasingly popular as the distinct Carmenere grape variety.

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2009 TOP BORDEAUX IMPRESSIVE AT AGE 15

by Joseph Temple

The 2009 Bordeaux were released with great fanfare as an outstanding vintage because of record sunlight hours resulting in grapes of high sugar ripeness. The resulting expensive at the time wines generally showed this open forwardly extra ripe opulent style with easier lower acidity levels and supple tannins. They continue to carry this reputation which was reinforced by the also excellent twin but more classic 2010. The very attractive voluptuous seductive early appreciation of 2009 Bordeaux is key. How are they developing in bottle?

Jane Anson has just released on her site some insightful assessments on 2009 & 2010. Vinous (Neal Martin) did a thorough review at 10 years and has a tasting of 2009 set in Miami on November 23. Lots of interest in these.
Our Vancouver Group of Eight held their 124th dinner event at Blue Water Cafe on October 8 tasting nine top 2009 Bordeaux. Some impressions:

Liked the mature creamy toasty fruit and honey in this bubbles of 1990 BOLLINGER GRANDE ANNEE BRUT CHAMPAGNE with a Bagel Lobster starter. This quality Champagne is only produced in exceptional vintages from Grand & Premier vineyards of Pinot Noir & Chardonnay with first fermentation in oak casks with a minimum aging on lees of 5 years.

2009 CHATEAU LE GAY Pomerol 90% Merlot & 10% Cab Franc

Open plummy sweet fruit that is deep and intense and very Merlot ripe. Softer and less concentrated from the lower yields (25hl/ha) than expected. Prefer to see more definition. Approachable. Easy drinking now.

2009 CHATEAU MALESCOT ST. EXUPERY Margaux 51CS 35M 8CF 4PV

Good depth of colour. More reluctant aromas. Smooth ripe attractive style showing the vintage more than the AC. Enjoyed recently the juicy cherries and acidity of the 2006. Value property.

2009 PAVILLON ROUGE DU CHATEAU MARGAUX 67CS 29M 4PV

Fragrant with more Cab Sauv. A bit herbaceous with concentrated tannins from 14% added press wine. Good depth (first year of third wine “Margaux”) for a second wine of excellent balance with charm and some delicacy. Prefer complexity of 2000.

2009 CHATEAU PALMER Margaux 52M 41CS 7PV

Darkest of First Flight. Best textures and structure. Loads of big fruit and classy 60% new oak. Youthful exuberance improved in the glass with airing. Bigger more alcohol but not as elegant as 1989 or other worldly 1961 (and 1966). Should develop well. Delicious with an outstanding duck tortellini dish.

2009 CHATEAU HAUT-BAILLY Pessac-Leognan 60CS 37M 3CF

Really admire the elegance, finesse, and balance here. Outstanding terroir of Pessac-Leognan really shines through helped by the riper vintage. A new book of their 25 years: 1998-2023 “Haut-Bailly On The Move” captures well the mission statement of Robert Wilmers & Veronique Sanders. Quote Jean Sanders: “Nothing to excess, Balance” and Gabriel Vialard Technical Director on the style: “The ideal, perfect balance between power, freshness, and softness, without any aggressiveness with a silky smooth texture.” A healthy restraint seeking true harmony is certainly accomplished here (and in the more classic 2010).

2009 CHATEAU DUHART-MILON Pauillac 63 CS 37M

Made one of the best 2003s and improved again here. Pauillac classic definition with black currant/cassis notes. Lovely forward accessibility with no rush. Improving property to watch of still good value.

2009 CHATEAU GRUAUD LAROSE Saint-Julien 68 CS 32M

Your scribe is fortunate to drink frequently the remarkable 1982 & 1986 and memories of that 1961. Pleased to see this property returning to form with power in almost a Pauillac concentration in 2009. This will age well as lots of clean fruit and structure to develop.

2009 CHATEAU DUCRU-BEAUCAILLOU Saint-Julien 85CS 15M

Harvest September 23-October 9. Big fruit and noticeable oak. Powerful fresh St. Julien statement too. Noticeable cloves and sage. Bruno Borie and team working the excellent terroir to best advantage. Bigger spicier more refined wine than elegant lighter exquisite 1970 enjoyed at 50 years.

2009 CHATEAU MONTROSE Saint-Estephe 65CS 29M 5CF 1PV

Very dark and concentrated with big impressive fruit but not the usual strong tannins. A new fresh almost Pessac-like style not picked too late by Jean Bernard Delmas? Thought I knew this terroir from monitoring the 1990 but don’t recognize it here. Michael Broadbent in Wine Tasting describes St. Estephe as follows: “Deep colour; stark raw fruity nose, cabernet less marked; full, firm tannic. Slow developing. Solid wines from heavier clay soil.” That was the old style St. Estephe (first published in 1968) and not the new one that is evolving. An outstanding wine nonetheless that will age well.

2005 CHATEAU COUTET Sauternes-Barsac

Finished up with this Barsac and the developing 2009s airing in the glass with a unique baked camembert with candied pecans. Seems bigger sweeter and more powerful than many Coutets and pairs nicely with the honey & nuts.

Summary: These top 2009 Bordeaux are developing very well with a seductive voluptuous nature plus buckets of ripe fruit still remaining to continue on a lovely drinking plateau for some time into the future. Impressed.

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Ask Sid: Which wines show “Cassis” notes?

by Joseph Temple
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Question: Which wines may show notes of cassis?

Answer: Cassis is an appropriate descriptor for many red wines that show concentrated creme de cassis liqueur of black currants fruit – or even perhaps like ripe blackberries. You usually can find good examples showing that unique intense “cassis” character in top wines of best vintages from St. Julien and Pauillac. You will find cassis prominently displayed in 2010 Chateau Leoville Poyferre among others.

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