Photo: Dirk Schneider (ds-foto) / CC BY-SA (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0)
Question: Did you know Michael Broadbent of Christie’s Wines?
Answer: Yes indeed! Michael Broadbent, MW (May 2, 1927 to March 17, 2020) was a renowned British wine writer and fine wine auctioneer with Christie’s dating back to 1966. He was a friend of your scribe and a major contributor to The International Wine & Food Society including being our Honorary President 1984-1992. A most helpful advisor to me on the both the IWFS Wines Committee and later following him as HP from 2012-2016. Michael and Harry Waugh both were at leading wine merchant Harveys in Bristol during the early sixties and starting in the late seventies they became the major educators on fine wine for so many of us. All early literary works were published by Wine & Spirit Publications, London with Harry releasing Bacchus on the Wing, The Changing Face of Wine, and Pick of the Bunch plus Michael starting in 1968 with Wine Tasting (“A practical handbook on tasting and tastings”). Michael was a driving force at Christie’s during these early years embarking on the successful Christie’s Wine Review (1972) and a remarkable detailed much enlarged edition of Wine Tasting in 1975 published by them. A most fantastic wine learning journal. These were the early days of unmatched amazing wine auction tastings. Remember being invited by Michael to attend the pre-auction historic tasting at Christie’s King Street London of the extensive Delor (Bordeaux negociant now part of the Dourthe Group) Collection of Lafite & Mouton available side by side to compare from 1971 vintage back to 1945 – including Michael’s favourite of 6 star “Churchillian” 1945 Chateau Mouton-Rothschild. The importance of taking disciplined wine notes even back then was a hallmark of this esteemed wine taster. Michael attended and conducted (with organizer wife Daphne) so many great wine tastings at world Festivals over the decades. At the Centenary one in London 1977 he compared 1970 & 1971 Bordeaux followed again with 1970 horizontal Bordeaux in Vancouver in 1983 at the 50th Anniversary of Andre Simon’s IWFS (started in 1933). Several important learned tomes followed on including “The Great Vintage Wine Book” in 1980 , “The NEW Great Vintage Wine Book” in 1991 and “Pocket Vintage Wine Companion” in 2007. Many wine aficionados have been influenced by his dedicated service for Decanter as a columnist from 1977-2012. Your scribe was most honoured in 2012 to have Michael write a most kind over-flattering long Preface to my IWFS Monograph of “An Appreciation of the Age of Wine”. Many thanks from all of us for your outstanding contributions Michael. A teaching legend in wine for sure. RIP
This unprecedented Covid-19 virus pandemic is having world-wide ramifications. So many countries already in dire circumstances. Be sympathetic for the entire country of Italy in lock down. Look at the state of emergency declared in Spain. Those two former hot tourist destinations have been among the global leaders in hospitality with a major food & wine culture. Similar decisions are starting to be enforced now in North America. The Mayors of the 2 largest cities of both LA (Eric Garcetti) & New York (Bill de Blasio) have ordered the closure of all bars, cafes, cinemas, restaurants, and theatres. Food outlets are only being allowed to use delivery services or take away. This is social distancing at the highest level. Even Las Vegas has joined in with the 13 properties of MGM Resorts and also Wynn Resorts all closing. All sporting events (except horse racing) on stand still. The overall impact on the hospitality industry is going to be disastrous. There will undoubtedly be major changes in the current restaurant scene as we know it regardless of where you live. Support your local fav place now in whatever way you can. Check out the up to date reports on vinepair.com and their useful live coverage Blog. In the meantime let’s all appreciate this extra family time we have together and use this opportunity to try some new home-cooked recipes or make old favs (or order delivery from your local restaurant) matched up with a choice bottle of wine you have stashed away for a special occasion. Stay safe in your hibernation & be most grateful.
Answer: Noticed at the just concluded 42nd Vancouver International Wine Festival consumers searching out better quality wines at good value. Lots of interest shown in developing countries like Croatia & Romania for wines made using local indigenous grape varieties. More of this trend for the next 43rd VIWF February 20-28, 2021 featuring key South American countries of Argentina, Brazil, Chile, and Uruguay. An interesting article on The Unexpected Wine Trends for 2020 “from a rise in women winemakers to novel packaging” at shondaland.com
One of the real highlights of each Vancouver International Wine Festival is the popular Boardroom tasting spotlighting an important world class wine. This year for the 42nd annual VIWF a most classy perfectly organized event on February 25 of one long table in the Vancouver Club featured a 12 year vertical of Nota Bene of Black Hills Estate Winery from Black Sage Road desert in the south Okanagan Valley of British Columbia. This was a preview for their upcoming 20 year vertical (1999-2018) events later this year celebrating the release of their 20th vintage. Nota Bene is a red Bordeaux blend of Estate vineyard 3 grapes (cabernet sauvignon, merlot & cabernet franc) selection that vary each vintage that is seeing an amazing quality evolution. Current winemaker is knowledgeable talented Ross Wise newest MW who deftly led this tasting together with experienced Chief Wine Evangelist Glenn Fawcett. Your scribe who has studied these wines often since the first 1999 vintage and knows them quite well also chimed in with a few current tasting impressions and historical background. A few of us had suggested that earlier vintages sometimes contained too much young under ripe cabernet sauvignon in the blend which influenced their one-off major change in 2012 of using instead 57% merlot & 35% cab sauv. Pleased that since then they are back using a majority of older vines (first planting in 1996) now with climate change better ripening cab sauv in their more recent blends. Ross updates that 2016 was a hotter year but with a long growing season showing very good results, 2017 has low low yields with a concentrated structure already delicious but will age well, and 2018 soon to be blended is coming along really nicely too. The pipeline looks encouraging indeed. More details on the 12 wines tasted are shown in the photos posted but here are a few brief tasting impressions:
2000: Three bottles opened all slightly different. Ross described them as (a) Bold cooked berries (b) Lean more developed earthy cigar-box (c) Marmite barnyard leafy though savoury. This vintage was tasted first but poured last and though showed somewhat lean after the tasting had finished opened up to a most promising complex intriguing licorce bouquet. Longevity probably helped by lower pH grapes in a wine that can use airing.
2003: Hottest year showing more alcohol and mushrooms. A bit funky.
2005: Average year with some rain now fully developed but leafy cab franc styling with brown sugar flavours.
2006: New era with a state of the art winery opening. Vintage hotter with a salty briny character.
2007: Quite good structure in an “Old World” style with leather and fading towards the finish.
2008: First year of drip irrigation but colder conditions resulted in higher acidity. Leaner palate with less weight. Shows that intense herbal almost minty notes.
2009: Shows very well indeed with round rich seductive flavours from a warmer year. Mushrooms again but much more cassis & cedar with a better silky texture. Always a consistent favourite of your scribe at every vertical. No rush.
2010: Very cold year with less ripe tannins more grainy resulting in a reserved style.
2012: Dark easy more approachable but still young with prominent merlot variety. Selection for Nota Bene now better with start of 2nd label Cellar Hand red plus also the increased barrel time from 12 to 18 months.
2013: Last use of that bolder 20% American oak but wine is quite delicious.
2014: 100% French oak with 30% new impresses as does the wonderful structure of this vintage with higher vibrancy. Like the rich concentration too showing blackberry, black currant, dark cherry and firm tannins. Outstanding aging potential. Excellent!
2015: Warmer year in a big intense riper smoky more forwardly opulent character.
Answer: Hopefully not. The German Wine Institute just announced that “The 2019 vintage will go down in history here in Germany as the first year in which the ice harvest has failed nationwide.” This is another result of warmer winters from climate change. However this may be good news for Canada the world leader in producing Icewine. Their first one was released by Hainle in the Okanagan back in 1973 and since then some 70+ wineries in Ontario & 20+ in British Columbia have produced some below -8C (17.6F) with a minimum 35 Brix usually between November to February. Many BC wineries took advantage of the cold spell between November 28 to December 1, 2019 to harvest frozen grapes of many varieties for an early quality vintage with good balancing acidity. The sweet nectar yields only about 15% of the usual for dry table wines. Probably in the future even less Icewine will be produced globally with pressure on the supply/demand ratio resulting in an increased price to the consumer.
