Question: What is Muselet?

Answer: MUSELET is the word derived from the French “museler” (to muzzle) to describe that unique wire wrapped cage used on the top of a bottle of Sparkling wine (including Champagne) to restrain the pressure on the closure from the bubbly contents within.

We all know how Chardonnay is recognized as the #1 grape variety in adapting best to different growing places around the world. No one yet has reproductively cloned a true top Chablis from that unique region (with Kimmeridgian-aged limestone bedrock) but there now are great diverse Chardonnay wines produced globally from everywhere. Climate change is helping previously “cool climate” Canada for this variety and there are many exciting examples out currently. Ontario took the lead initially with a focus on their many limestone fissures ideal for growing Chardonnay (and Pinot Noir). Your scribe always enjoys the consistent Le Clos Jordanne Le Grand Clos from Twenty Mile Bench and others. BC has improved by leaps and bounds over the last decade in finding ideal spots for growing Chardonnay often with soils containing some calcium carbonate. Long time followers of this Blog will recall the August 31, 2016 posting here on “BC Bottle Shock” with Steven Spurrier attending for the First Judgment of BC Tasting where a Chardonnay from BC couldn’t rank in the Top 5. Subsequently at the final Fifth Judgment of BC reported November 4, 2019 here BC Chardonnays took 3 of the top 5 placings led by #1 Meyer Family Tribute 2016. On August 16, 2022 our Vancouver Group of 8 annual dinner with spouses at Cactus Club Coal Harbour spotlighted eight BC Chardonnays all made from Okanagan Valley fruit that showed most impressively. Some brief notes as follows:

1. 2019 SPEARHEAD SADDLE BLOCK CHARDONNAY: This is the Clone 95 from their own Home Vineyard in south east Kelowna hand harvested, whole bunch pressed and fermented & aged for 10 months in French oak (25% new) of casks & puncheons with partial malolactic. Like the fresh bright crisp restrained subtle delivery of this wine. Excellent.
2. 2019 QUAILS’ GATE STEWART FAMILY RESERVE CHARDONNAY: Mainly Clone 95 of 23 year old vines on volcanic soils of Mt. Boucherie. Solid one for many past vintages showing here as riper,
   spicy, tropical, very Chardonnay varietal with lees & more oak, plus more alcohol (regular one only 12.5 abv). Recently QG is producing a more elegant example with their Rosemary’s Block Chardonnay.
3. 2019 LA FRENZ RESERVE CHARDONNAY: Experienced Niva & Jeff Martin produced a very aromatic perfumed style, quite flowery and almost leaning more towards Gewurz than classic Chard on the nose. Good balance but in a leaner style perhaps not showing at its best today.
4. 2018 CHABERTON BARREL AGED CHARDONNAY: Estate producer near Vancouver in Langley of real value has Valley Chardonnay unoaked but this one was aged 4 months in French & American oak. Smart of them to access top grapes for this choice from two quality growers in the Okanagan (Gehringer & Nk’Mip) which displays currently open “buttery vanilla pineapple popcorn” for enjoyable drinking Chardonnay.
5. 2017 SPEARHEAD CLONE 95 CHARDONNAY (MAGNUM): From 2 sites of Home Vineyard & Naramata fermented & aged 10 months in smaller barriques and larger puncheons. So stylish rich creamy with oak well integrated plus preserved lemons forwardly drinking now even in magnum format.
6. 2017 MEYER FAMILY MICRO CUVEE CHARDONNAY: Small production (110 cases) with winemaker Chris Carson personally selecting the most harmonious blend of only best fruit from the top barrels. Estate fruit from “Old Main Road” on Naramata Bench planted in all chardonnay in 1996 on North aspect alluvial soil over clay. Only use gentler first press juice started in stainless and completed in 100% French oak (22% new) sur lees for 11 months with no stirring (battonage). Unfined and unfiltered. Rich style but so elegant and balanced (7.2 total acidity) expressing amazing complexity. Delicious. Long finish with no heat (13.5 abv) Very well done indeed!
7. 2016 MEYER FAMILY MCLEAN CREEK ROAD CHARDONNAY (MAGNUM): This one from their Home Estate in Okanagan Falls (further south than Naramata) planted in 1995 with unknown clones on steep gravel sandy loams soil. Cool long starting fermentation in stainless before transferred to finish in French oak (18% new) with 11 months lees and full malolactic. Shows exquisitely tonight very fresh in magnum format with citrus mineral notes lifted by fresh acidity. Exciting to monitor the aging of this remarkable beauty! World class quality.
8. 2013 PRIVATA EX-NIHILO VINEYARDS CHARDONNAY: Now producing from Lake Country but this vintage used Okanagan Falls fruit. 60% barrel fermented in a majority of French oak sur lies for 8 months with bi-weekly stirring. Oldest and most mature of these with slight butterscotch notes. Older techniques used. Ready to drink. Some excellent food courses to match this wonderful line-up of surprisingly worthy top of the class Chardonnays. There were 3 other very expensive French wines also served at this dinner. However they didn’t steal the whole show as the 1990 Pol Roger Champagne in Magnum usually this vintage is really outstanding bubbles but was badly corked, 2005 Clos de Tart in Magnum a future showstopper star for sure but presently mostly only big powerful concentrated primary fruit needing more bottle development to shine brilliantly, and 1988 Chateau Coutet was a sweet charming marvellous finish to a fine memorable evening all around.

Question: I live in Ontario and enjoy good value red wine in the $25 range, especially cabernet sauvignons from Paso Robles. Any guidance to those?

Answer: Yes this Central Coast region is “hot” in both meanings of the word. Paso Robles is a marvelous place to visit and was originally focused mainly on the Zinfandel grape. However, it now has developed into a very diverse geographic region with growing success for many varieties including Bordeaux & Rhone blends using Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah/Grenache among others. There are so many producers to choose from though limited access to them in the Canadian marketplace. Suggest you use the helpful new LCBO.COM website to search for what Paso Robles cabernet sauvignons presently are available in your Government stores. Your scribe knows that Hope Family Wines Liberty School, Joseph Carr (Josh Cellars), and J. Lohr are among some popular current choices in Toronto. Good luck to you in your search for a softer peppery dark fruit style Cab or Bordeaux blend to enjoy with Summer BBQ and other flavourful foods.

Chaberton Estate Winery is in Langley, British Columbia near the USA border founded in 1975 by Inge & Claude Violet who produced 3000 cases in their first year 1991 as a Farm Gate Winery. The current owners are Anthony Cheng & Eugene Kwan who purchased the winery in 2005 – now in their 17th year. Your scribe has closely followed the progression with keen interest. At times it seemed somewhat confusing as they had too many wines, too many labels (remember Canoe Cove) and often too much residual sugar. However, I believe the wines presently avaiable are the best they have ever been with fresh lively mostly drier style for outstanding value. The flagship big seller is their Estate Grown Bacchus showing sweeter citrus notes with balanced acidity (used to do both a dry & this most popular one). The new exciting undiscovered treasure recommended by your scribe is Estate Grown GAMAY NOIR. This month I was surprised by the refreshing exuberant textbook Gamay fruit displayed by this delightful red when quite chilled from both the 2020 & 2021 vintages. Now better understand the enthusiasm always shown by Janet Dorozynski for Canadian Gamay with her #gogamaygo hashtag promotions. Hopefully another Malivoire Gamay success story is in the making. The 2020 was opened by us for dinner to celebrate BC Day August 1st and was a big hit. We loved the 100% local Fraser Valley “wild roses” fruit singing brilliantly at only 11.5 abv showing a softer most drinkable texture from malolactic fermentation & lighter tannins with those cherry-rhubarb flavours. The 2021 was similar at their home Bacchus Bistro (named after the successful Bacchus grape variety) paired with excellent dishes for lunch on August 11. This small lot vintage 2021 deservedly just took Gold at the Wine Align 2022 National Wine Awards of Canada. The winery Wine List appropriately describes it as “bright raspberry, blackberry, and blueberry flavours in a light bodied wine.” Price is a real value at the bottle price $20.95 (wine shop) & $46 (restaurant – or $12 for a 6 ounce glass). Another purchase opportunity for easy Summer picnics is the 4 pack cans (250 ml) of the Chaberton White & Red for $24. Don’t forget the unsung top quality food consistently produced in the Bacchus Bistro by Chef Ashley Chisham and his brigade. Many delicious favs include Lobster Bisque, Fresh Halibut, Duck Leg Confit, Spicy Lamb Shank, Fresh Apricot Tart, and Vanilla Ice Cream with warm dark chocolate sauce. Worth a detour.

Question: I am wanting to order some Ontario wines. Would like your thoughts Sid on best vintages and recommended grape varieties to seek out.

Answer: Good idea and excellent timing. Ontario growers are touting 2020 as their best vintage ever and there are still some good 2019 in the market. Careful about 2021 as it is less consistent with lots of rain from mid-September to the end of October. Check out the just released winners from WineAlign 2022 National Wine Awards of Canada for smart buying ideas. Some of my favourites for whites include Chardonnay (Le Clos Jordanne, Closson Chase) & value Riesling (many wonderful ones from the Niagara Bench – try Flat Rock Cellars). For reds Cabernet Franc (lots of good ones – look for grapes grown on classy Picone Vineyard site with older vines), Gamay (13th Street Winery plus many exciting ones from Malivoire) & Pinot Noir (Hidden Bench Felseck and Thirty Bench Small Lot both from Beamsville Bench) are really worth seeking out. Enjoy your Ontario wine studies.