RIESLING WINE: A REASONABLY PRICED VALUE IS VERSATILE YOUNG AND AGED!

Wines produced from the Riesling grape remain media favs but are less appreciated by consumers. The wide scope of their successful varying styles from increasingly popular trocken dry to special pradikatswein sweeter versions adds to the overall confusion. Still somewhat difficult for the wine consumer to know exactly what balance of acidity and sugar levels they will find in any bottle of Riesling and whether that combination is what they actually prefer drinking or matching with food.

Your scribe is a big admirer of Nik Weis wine caretaker/owner of St. Urbans-Hof and posted here with details on April 10, 2016 a memorable tasting he conducted in Vancouver. I regularly have been collecting and enjoying his St. Urbans-Hof winery (located in the village of Leiwen in the Mosel Valley of Germany) Estate Bottled “From Old Vines” Riesling. His estate vineyard planted in the late forties by his grandfather exclusively to Riesling situated on many of the finest slopes of the Mosel and Saar Rivers are now old vines with deep roots into the slate soils. They are delivering classic complex Riesling at very good value. Originally brought into the BCLDB by Renaissance Wine Imports at only $20 for the 2008, $26 for 2015, and currently available at $35 for the 2023 vintage – all good value for the top quality in the bottle. Just opened this past week my last bottles of 2008 & 2011 (both 9.5 abv) and was delightfully impressed. When younger the bright elegant fruit was off-dry honey with fresh salted peaches, apricots, and juicy limes. With aging that complex stony character with minerals became even more prominent with the signature marmalade/petrol notes in both the more mature fuller 2008 (late ripening good acidity year) and the perfectly balanced still vibrant 2011 (consistent year from ideal harvest). Versatile as a delicious aperitif and pairing so food friendly with the first of the year fresh Copper River Sockeye Salmon and clean Italian-style pasta dishes. Appreciated and sad to have none of those vintages left but luckily still have younger ones.

You can have a similar revelatory experience by acquiring current vintages to enjoy now or with more bottle age. Remember this is their Weis clone 21B Riesling that was planted in both the Okanagan Valley of British Columbia and in Ontario. Support locals too by doing the same with a Riesling bottle from Sperling, Summerhill, Tantalus, Vineland and many others. Tantalus has “old vines” purity originally planted in 1978 and also a new exciting Crafted in BC Riesling 2024. It comes from two sites in Ontario both planted with the Weis 21B Clone: Paul Franciosa at Grimsby Hillside (planted 2007 & 2005) and Mark Picone (his namesake vineyard planted in 2008) with less alcohol at 11.4 abv, low pH 2.83 and balancing tension high acidity 9.16 g/l & 14.8 g/l residual sweetness. Can enjoy now but no rush on any Riesling. At what age do you prefer it? Lots of opportunities presently to learn more about the fantastic Riesling grape and the sensory delights it can joyfully provide. Recommended!


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Ask Sid: Which winery in the Okanagan transported grapes or juice the greatest distance to produce a Crafted in BC 2024 wine?

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Question: Which winery in the Okanagan transported grapes or juice the greatest distance to produce a Crafted in BC 2024 wine?

Answer: Yes, after the extreme freezing weather of January 2024, many wineries secured replacement fruit using grapes grown outside of British Columbia. Washington State was nearby and was mostly utilized, but Oregon, California, and Ontario were also popular destinations. However, Cedar Creek Estate Winery felt they had to reach out to far away but cool climate Marlborough in New Zealand “to ensure we stay true to our brand’s identity” for their fresh vibrant lively acidity fermented in Stainless steel Sauvignon Blanc 2024.


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18TH SPOT PRAWN FESTIVAL IN 2025 CONTINUES AS A POPULAR CULINARY HAPPENING

The spotlight on the short seasonal Spot Prawn harvest continues to be a most popular focus here on the Pacific West Coast. Our thriving Chefs’ Table Society started this Festival 18 years ago and it continues to attract a lot of public attention with culinary presentations and demos plus sales directly from the boats. The latest was on Sunday May 25th with a great turnout at Fishermen’s Wharf on False Creek on a sunny Spring Day in Vancouver. Your scribe reported here on May 27, 2024 about last year with more details and referenced with a link to two earlier ones in 2023 and 2022. Some good coverage with insightful videos on our chefstablebc Instagram account to check out. It has turned into quite the culinary phenomenon!

This year again saw beautiful presentations by the contributing chefs for 6 dishes on the $79 grazing menu Brunch plus the 8 ounce delicious Spot Prawn Bisque + Bun for $10 orchestrated lighter this year using only 25% whipping cream by the inimitable Chef Robert Clark. The cooking demos well moderated by Chef Alex Tung were so educational and full of valuable tips. Talented Chef Ned Bell prepared his tasty Tacos dish and recommended getting those heads off the Spot Prawns asap and only cooking them with boiling water poured over them for the count of 10 and then immediately put into ice water. He advised you also could steam them but to be very careful not to overcook them using the BBQ. We are already gearing up for a special 20th Festival celebration in 2027.

The Chefs’ Table Society of British Columbia is active and contributes so much to our local community. Upcoming is their Dungeness Crab Festival at the Wharf on Sunday July 6 and the extraordinary CooksCamp 2025 at North Arm Farm in Pemberton B.C. September 10-12 for two days of hands-on learning and sharing to better both our industry and ourselves. Recommended. Breaking most exciting news is that CTS has signed a 5 year lease with options for space to develop a Culinary Hospitality Centre and Library in Vancouver. More details on the location and the date for the celebratory opening to follow. Stay tuned.


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Ask Sid: What is Procanico?

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Question: What is Procanico?

Answer: An alternative name used in central Italy especially Umbria and Maremma for the widely planted Trebbiano (called Ugni Blanc in France) grape variety. We are likely to see more use of synonyms like Procanico on wine labels to highlight the regional differences obtainable from this popular often high yielding grape choice but with a prized greater acidity advantageous in a warming world climate.


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SHAW + SMITH ARE EXPRESSING ADELAIDE HILLS IN AUSTRALIA WITH VIBRANT MODERN CLASSIC WINES

Your scribe bought and has been enjoying the top quality M3 Chardonnay 2021 sourced from cool sites in the Mount Lofty Ranges, Adelaide Hills, Australia vinified and bottled by Shaw + Smith – established in 1989 by cousins Martin Shaw and Michael Hill-Smith MW.

Impressed by the wonderful reductive style of elegant crisp structured well balanced 2021 Chardonnay stony pure intense fruit both subtle and understated at only 13 abv. Under the radar but refined, matching beautifully with all sorts of seafood dishes including recently some tasty Icelandic Cod.

Last month David Lemire co-CEO made his North America tour from Florida, to Chicago, to Cork Fine Wines in Calgary and finished up with a tasting at Marquis Wine Cellars in Vancouver on May 21, 2025. It was good to connect again with knowledgeable David and obtain further insights from him about their interesting portfolio of excellent wines. Excited to try the new Chardonnay releases. They also showed three other recommended varieties of Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir (both 2021 Adelaide Hills and impressive 2021 south facing single vineyard Lenswood planted in 1999 with Clone 114) and Adelaide Hills Shiraz (2021 at 13.5 plus an aged release 2013 at 14). The 2023 M3 Chardonnay Adelaide Hills at 12.5 was the third cool La Nina year (before the hotter 2024 and the warm dry different more adjusted 2025 compressed vintage using increased vine density plantings) but even less full ripeness in this 2023 vintage. Even though picked later it seems not quite as rich, balanced and structured as 2021 with a bit more restraint and minerality than 2022 but more currently charming delicate with lovely softer smoky flavours. Not hard, high acidity but leaner so 2023 will drink well early on but should still age a while as well. Lovely Adelaide Hills styling and as stated on their website another “modern classic”. Particularly noticeable to try the younger 2023 Adelaide Hills next to the 2021 east facing Block 3 & 4 of Lenswood Vineyard Chardonnay planted with Clones Bernard 95 & 76 in 2001 at 500 metres on loam over clay and shale at 4760 vines/ha. that definitely shows more fresh vibrancy, intensity, and structure from that single vineyard but also from the exceptional 2021 vintage. They have 3 Adelaide Hills sites that includes the main Balhannah Vineyard at about 360 metres but watch out for more special Piccadilly Vineyard designations in the future as the vines mature from the highest coolest part of the hills with iron & shiny quartz at very high density planting of over 10,000 vines per hectare. Also, check out their classy more expensive Tolpuddle Chardonnay from the Coal River Valley in cooler Tasmania.


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