Your scribe admires a lot the complexity of white Burgundy and is fortunate to enjoy it quite frequently. Magical with seafood courses and other most appropriate food pairings. I’m a long time collector who experienced some real highs with the age worthy treasures for mature drinking including twins 1985 & 1986 and 1989 & 1990 plus other older top vintages. Also some disappointing lows from aging those premature oxidation (pre-mox) years starting with the 1995/1996 vintages and sporadically since then. However this has improved lately and most producers now are quite reliable recently. One of the best IMHO has been Bouchard Pere whose bottle aging record is impressive. Supporting this style has been their emphasis on early picking for white Burgundy first by winemaker Philippe Prost and his assistant since 2003 Frederic Weber, the current cellarmaster. Smart harvest decisions were made over the last 20+ years generally to pick Chardonnay earlier than most other vignerons to retain better acidity levels that led to some unwarranted criticism that the white wines were “too light with less body”. Yet with cellaring those wines have shown the structure and balance to age well and develop outstanding complexity. Currently with climate change most everyone has changed now to earlier picking. In 2022 a partnership union was created with Bouchard Pere and Artemis Domaines.

Over the past month with home dinners your scribe has studied in detail (plus overnight airing) five vintages of a fav property Meursault Perrieres Premier Cru Bouchard Pere. The results were impressive indeed with these wines continuing to move to another level but still no rush to appreciate at their very best.

Some impressions:

2008 MEURSAULT PERRIERES PREMIER CRU BOUCHARD PÈRE & FILS: Cooler year of higher acidity. This bottle was slightly pre-mox mature compared to other tries but still with more fullness than expected from this vintage. Variable bottles. Less rich weight of flavours. Marvellous matching with Copper River Sockeye Salmon. 13.5 abv.

2009 MEURSAULT PERRIERES PREMIER CRU BOUCHARD PERE & FILS: Much hotter growing season usually results in creamy rich forwardly 2009 white Burgundies. This bottle surprises with remarkable young greenish tint colour so well balanced but reluctant. Served with grilled octopus. Not giving much closed on the nose and still a fresh lively fair acidity palate. Better the next day. Sat next to Frederic Weber on May 17, 2024 at a dinner at Bouchard Pere served with “thon rouge en deux facons” 2009 Mags of both this wine & Chevalier Montrachet La Cabotte both splendid and more open. Frederic mentioned the earlier picking particularly for hotter years like 2009 “gives better balance” and “2009 only a tad softer than the outstanding 2010, 2014 and 2017”. He “strongly feels Perrieres blended from 3 parcels is always their best Meursault combining minerals & depth”. No rush. 14 abv.

2010 MEURSAULT PERRIERES PREMIER CRU BOUCHARD PERE & FILS: Classic year with more intensity from a reduced crop. Seemed too young previously but knitting together. Young green/yellow look with an open complex mineral bouquet and creamy full pure rich delicious taste. Showing as clearly the best of these presently on a phenomenal plateau of enjoyment at 15 years. Memorable with marinated sablefish course. Should hold here for quite a while. 14 abv. Congrats.

2013 MEURSAULT PERRIERES PREMIER CRU BOUCHARD PERE & FILS: Another cooler year. Drinking nicely now with enough freshness there but lighter bodied and not quite as pure and classy as 2010 or 2014. Recommend to open and enjoy. 13.5 abv.

2014 MEURSAULT PERRIERES PREMIER CRU BOUCHARD PERE & FILS: You have to admire the potential of this amazing wine. Still looks so young with greenish tints. What clean fresh vibrancy to it. Outstanding structure with admirable balance of all the elements including intense concentrated fruit extract, wonderful acidity, and minerality. More Chablis Les Clos like at the moment. Patience. Unlimited future. Ultimately best. 13.5 abv. Big congrats.

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Answer: Yes indeed after those two major freezes of December 2022 and the even worse one of January 2024 many vines have not recovered therefore necessitating replanting. This presently is proceeding by many wineries in British Columbia. A good recent example is #spearheadwinery replanting 24000 new vines on their home #estatevineyard on benchlands of southwest Kelowna – part of the East Kelowna Slopes Sub-GI. The positive aspect according to Grant Stanley (Winemaker & GM) is that it provides a fresh opportunity to plant with purpose deciding on which locations best suit which grape varieties. A new beginning.

We hosted a dinner party on July 19 with an educational wine tasting of three red wines just before and with the main course of duck leg confit. Big fans of those classy 2005 Bordeaux reds with that attractive structured concentration of fruit with firm tannins. The vintage conditions were favourable with warm dry days and cooler nights helping to preserve balanced acidity. Many classified growths now are starting to show their wonderful quality classic style on an early plateau of outstanding pleasure. Some of the Cru Bourgeois are drinking beautifully now. Wanted to serve the underrated Chateau Cambon La Pelouse Haut-Médoc 2005 but decided to compare it with two other 2005 reds made in a Bordeaux like style but from elsewhere all at 20 years of age. Picked a Napa Cab and a BC Okanagan Meritage for the comparison. Your scribe as host knew the wines and the order but the guests didn’t and tasted them initially double blind. All thought they were perfect pairings with the duck course.

Here are the three red wines of 2005 and some brief impressions:

2005 MERRYVALE CABERNET SAUVIGNON NAPA VALLEY 2005 started off wet but was an excellent vintage also in Napa not overly hot but with cooler conditions. This winery in St. Helena from long time owners the Schlatter family produces wines in a classic style. Visited their tasting room several times and appreciated the use of quality grapes from key vineyards in Carneros, Yountville, and St. Helena resulting in this 100% Cabernet Sauvignon wine. They use native yeast fermentation, extended maceration on the skins with 18 months in French oak barrels (32% new) with quarterly racking. Nice dry-sweetness. At 14.5 abv it shows rich ripe intense black olives and menthol notes in a smooth mouthfeel. A very Cab Sauv focus showing that Napa style. Popular.

2005 CHÂTEAU CAMBON LA PELOUSE HAUT-MÉDOC CRU BOURGEOIS SUPÉRIEUR Left Bank property in the Macau commune well situated near Chateau Cantemerle & Giscours. This blend of 50/30/18/2 of Merlot, Cab Sauv, Cab Franc, and Petit Verdot used 50% new oak and was impressive on release. Less alcohol at 13.5 with that remarkable Bordeaux ageability. Shows a wonderful developed charming bouquet but is so much softer now yet still fresh with finesse & elegance. Most complexity and length. Beautiful delicious drinking.

2005 BURROWING OWL ESTATE WINERY MERITAGE ESTATE BOTTLED Family owned winery in south Okanagan at Oliver BC Canada by the Wyse family who always produced fine balanced wines with ageability. This blend at 14. 4 abv is mainly Merlot 64% with Cab Franc 25, Cab Sauv 10, and tiny amounts of Malbec & Petit Verdot for 1455 cases. Renowned reviewer John Schreiner in 2008 for Appellation America noted 2005 “small fruit set due to rain at flowering …reduced yields naturally.” His comments at that time were “It is a wonderfully rich wine, beginning with aromas of vanilla, chocolate and cassis. Palate flavours plum cassis & touch of spice (cloves). The long ripe tannins contribute to the wine’s appealing texture. There is elegance and balance here, with a drink-now accessibility but enough firmness for several years of cellaring.” Today it surprises with mellow round attractive supple textures full of life. Definitely in this ball game. It has a rather distinctive unique character of blackberry blueberry earthy sweet spice notes from those deep sandy soils. Well done. From a global perspective top quality wine from many key regions even at 20 years of age can really surprise you.

This insightful friendly tasting made for an interesting social evening over dinner. Put your own themed wine grouping together for a similar fun function. Enjoy.

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Question: What is the Morillon grape?

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Your scribe is a long time devotee to top natural cork closures on fine quality top wines for aging. In the old days there was nothing else. There were some TCA corky issues that could arise but it wasn’t that bad. Less producers needing less top quality corks. Not the case today with so many more new wineries in the game. Now with differing opinions out there on so many alternative choices for wineries it makes it difficult to know which is the best closure. Most agree on the screw cap effectiveness for fresh early drinking wines. However for longer aging the jury may still be out. Check out here this posting of Ridge Vineyards on 12 types of corks and wine closures for more details.

Over the past several years on opening many wine bottles it has been surprising to me the number that are now using Diam corks. We answered a question about Diam corks on the Ask Sid Wednesday feature back on April 4, 2018 linked here. Also noted on this Blog posting on May 21, 2018 here (and followed up on October 25, 2021 here) the interesting decision of Olivier Bernard at Domaine de Chevalier starting with 2015 whites followed by 2016 reds to convert both Grand Vins to long top quality Diam 30.

As a keen collector of Christian Moreau Chablis (especially Les Clos) I have been monitoring the different corks used by them back to 2010. That vintage 2010 Les Clos is holding wonderful maturity brilliantly but wished it had a better cork as they only used the Diam 5 (as did then 77 year old Vaillon vines of Guy Moreau cuvee). 2011 & 2012 Les Clos are in normal cork closure but the brilliantly balanced acidity of long cellaring 2014 is Diam 10 before going back to natural cork again for 2015. The exciting 2020 Les Clos also is in Diam 10 like the 2014 but wish they had chosen Diam 30 – like Benjamin Leroux did for his 2020 Meursault Charmes Dessus and his other wines. Long aging potential deserves their best.

We know New Zealand and Australia wineries are big fans of screw caps. Enjoying many top younger whites from those regions with that closure including young 2021 Shaw & Smith M3 Chardonnay.

Lots of European classic producers still using old style corks from 2021 Redigaffi by Tua Rita, Domaine Billaud-Simon (Faiveley) 2020 Montee de Tonnerre, 2018 Brunello Di Montalcino by Biondi-Santi, 2015 La Clarté De Haut-Brion Pessac-Leognan, and 2010 Chevalier Montrachet les Demoiselles from Domaine Louis Jadot – though Jadot, Bouchard Pere and other larger houses have now endorsed Diam.

Another newer synthetic closer by Nomacorc is Select Green 300 and others designed for controlled oxygen management made from sugar-cane used for example by Vincent Careme on his South African Chenin Blanc.

However, most surprising to me has been the plethora of wineries who have endorsed Diam. 2020 Château de Fieuzal (like Domaine de Chevalier) is in Diam 30, 2018 Corton-Charlemagne Bouchard Pere only used Diam 10 though 2015 Meursault Goutte D’Or from Domaine des Comtes Lafon & Corton-Charlemagne Louis Jadot both Diam 30 Grand Cru best. Olivier Leflaive 2017 St. Aubin Champlots is Diam 10.

A clear majority of value younger white Burgundies your scribe has opened so far this year are all Diam 10: includes Armand Heitz, 2020 St Aubin 1er Cru Sur Gamay Mark Haisma, 2021 Pernand-Vergelesses Domaine Jean-Baptiste Boudier, and 2021 Monthelie Blanc Cuvée Miss Armande Douhairet-Porcheret.

Maybe a trend?

Please let us know what your thoughts are on your preferred wine closure?

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