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In December the festive season is upon us with many celebratory dinners – some of which include exciting vertical studies of legendary wine properties. The first one up this month for your scribe was a Chateau Leoville Poyferre vertical on December 5 by Commanderie de Bordeaux at celebrated Boulevard. This St. Julien property has been highlighted on this Blog several times previously with the last vertical on January 23, 2017 linked here. Six of the eight wines this time were tasted nearly 6 years ago at that vertical and subsequently as well so this was an interesting update.

Our first wonderful comparison were the two 2015 whites from Bordeaux well paired with the exquisite pate en croute. What a big difference in style to these excellent wines with the small production La Clarte de Haut-Brion (and La Mission Haut-Brion) using 35% new oak for 73% Sémillon & 27% Sauvignon Blanc with Domaine de Chevalier using more new oak 55% and extended batonnage (stirring settled lees) for the opposite ratio of 75% Sauvignon Blanc & 25% Sémillon. Another difference was the closures with La Clarte in standard quality cork and Chevalier the first year using Diam 30 (next year 2016 also red used Diam 30). Proprietor Olivier Bernard told me he did this to avoid so much bottle variation from natural corks but it didn’t work on this occasion as the three bottles varied from slight pre-mox to pristine complexity with freshness. Great start.

The two flights of reds with 4 vintages each followed with the oldest served before the youngest (but 2005 was still 18 years old) and this Chateau production consistency always on the improve. Reference wine notes on the first four of 96, 95, 86, and 82 in the 2017 Blog cited above. Also the 1982 was noted in the 1982 retrospectives of January 3, 2022 here, and April 3, 2023 here.

First Flight of 1996, 1995, 1986, 1982:

1996 LEOVILLE POYFERRE: First one served was impressive indeed with dense generous deep plummy earthy fruit with structured tannins coming together but no rush. Start of changing style with new consultant Michel Rolland using 50% new oak. This bottle still rather dumb with spiced coffee aromas but slightly marred by a faint note of dusty brett. Wine should still develop well with more maturity.

1995 LEOVILLE POYFERRE: Less deep at the edge with a floral herbal very 95 slightly softer than 1996 styling that is drinking lovely now. So enjoyable with a remarkable innovative handmade crown pasta dish that was full of delicious umami porcini flavours. What a combo!

1986 LEOVILLE POYFERRE: Somewhat controversial year for LP with low scores originally from wine writers including an 87 from Robert Parker. Your scribe is a fan of 1986 Bordeaux late picked in the upper Medoc of St. Julien and Pauillac. Check out again our bullish report on 1986 on a tasting with Bill Blatch of the 3 Leovilles posted September 19, 2022. Younger vines on replanting but highly thought of early on by the winemaker and his consultant Emile Peynaud. 1986 is slowly evolving with impressive showing the last 5 years. Still dark young and underrated but with the best pure St. Julien terroir cedar nose with freshness of all the wines this time. Recommended value.

1982 LEOVILLE POYFERRE: Lighter colour with a browning rim. Enticing mature exotica bouquet but some sediment in my glass affecting the smooth delicate texture. Not the best bottle of 1982. Group voted it wine of the first flight in a close decision with 1986 with no support given for 1996 & 1995.

Second flight of 2005, 2003, 2002 and 2000:

2005 LEOVILLE POYFERRE: Dark and youthful red tones. Blend is 68% Cab Sauv, 26% Merlot & 6% Petit Verdot. Nose tight and rather closed. Really like the power intensity of balanced fruit and structure with elegance underneath. My fav for unlimited potential. A future winner that is worth searching out.

2003 LEOVILLE POYFERRE: Hot Summer weather resulted in a unique vintage somewhat similar to current global warming. Result is better than you would expect and though ripe thicker black currant jam is voluptuous and rather good. Delicious with the amazing lamb course prepared by talented Chef Roger Ma and brigade.

2002: LEOVILLE POYFERRE: Quite dark and deep. Unheralded difficult year so much less ripeness than the 2003 but shows good fruit on a plateau of enjoyment now and was the surprise of the night.

2000: LEOVILLE POYFERRE: Lauded year and delivers bright lovely forwardly drinking quality. More new oak at 80% and appreciate the figs with olives in an admirable opulent texture. Easy to like. Group fav of second flight though your scribe prefers the potential of 2005.

Question: What is micro-oxygenation on red wines?

Answer: It is adding oxygen into red wine. Useful during the initial main fermentation to help the yeasts do their work effectively. Some claim it adds colour with similar results in the wine that you get from oak barrel aging. Timing and especially amounts used must be carefully monitored so it is not overdone. Good review on the chemistry and pros & cons in Science Direct with more details here.

We were fortunate to have the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino (founded in 1967) visit Vancouver on November 28, 2023, with an extensive wine tasting well organized at the Vancouver Club. Also most pleased that Italian wine guru MIchaela Morris Vancouver-based but knowledgeable contributor to Decanter magazine (and other publications) was present to lead this excellent seminar. We were delighted and grateful that Vancouver was selected by the Consortium from the six countries making up 60% of their export markets of the DOCG Brunello. The exciting tasting named BENVENUTO BRUNELLO 2023 was held on the same day in eight cities: Dallas, Miami, New York, Shanghai, Tokyo, Toronto, Vancouver, and Zurich. In Vancouver, we had the opportunity to taste 35 producers showing 68 Brunello di Montalcino mainly from the 2019 vintage plus roughly a dozen Riserva from 2018. An intensive sit-down endurance test over 5 hours with every table having their own server for the choices you made from the Wine List in flights of four wines each. Delicious sandwiches supplied only at the back of the room but not to be brought to your table – so no conflicting aromas or break of concentration on the wines. Well done. Your scribe could only stay for 4 hours but did taste 41 out of 68 available including all the 2018 Riserva (+ one 2016) plus a wide selection of 2019s. Some brief overall impressions:

1. The 2019s have a 5 star rating (compared to cooler 2018 with 4) showing lovely aromatics with a riper balanced structure in the trending luxurious style. The 2018 were lighter colour, even though are Riservas, but making a lovely elegant quality statement. Both have good cellar potential.
2. Presently a big fan who is enjoying the wonderful 2010 treasures but do believe the twin star vintages of warmer riper less acidity 2015 & later harvested better acidity 2016 signalled generally an upturn for Brunello (except for hot variable forwardly 2017) with their overall quality consistency. Not convinced yet that 2019 is as outstanding a vintage as classic 2016.
3. Interesting to learn that there are now 208 bottling wineries using 3500 hectares of vineyards on diverse soils reaching an altitude of 564 meters with 2100 Brunello di Montalcino DOCG & 510 Rosso di Montalcino DOC. BdM maximum yield of 8 Tons/hectare, requiring 2 years in oak, and 4 months in bottle (Riserva 6 months) released to market on January 1st of the 5th year after harvest (Riserva January 1 of 6th year). Rosso allowed 9 Tons/hectare yield and released September 1 of the year following harvest.
4. Impressed by San Polo Riserva 2018 complexity and surprised by the depth of Banfi Poggio Alla Mura 2018 Riserva (and that vineyard in 2019 as well).
5. Fairly good consistency on the 2019s with my favourites including Vigna Montosoli from Canalicchio Di Sopra, Giobi by La Fortuna and Uccelliera (15 abv).
   
   More details here on the wines and the local agents for the Producers. Also, a most informative slide presentation from the seminar by Michaela is here.

Question: What is the latest on ingredient labeling on wine bottles?

Answer: A most timely question because December 8, 2023 is the date the European Union has set requiring all “wine” produced by them and sold within the EU to provide a full list of ingredients either on the label or QR code. As a result there are compliance issues for wine producers around the world to consider. A good detailed review on the matter by Global Data here.

Another wonderful Burgundy dinner this month at the rather new Italian themed using fresh local produce restaurant The Farmhouse in Vancouver. Some delightful dishes prepared and served including many delicious flavours of porcini, prosciutto, parmigiano reggiano, gorgonzola, roast chicken, and spicy Spaghetti. Interesting and the courses were well paired with the wines we brought along from our Tastevin cellar. Check out the menu.

A less well known Jean Lallement Grand Cru bubbles blend from the heart of the Montagne de Reims in Verzenay (80 pinot noir & 20 chard) disgorged November 15, 2021 provided a solid aperitif beginning. Four Meursaults from 3 different Premier Cru vineyards and 4 vintages was an educational challenge. Prefer 2010 for classic intense balanced white Burgundy over the other three (2011, 2008, and 2006) but Poruzots does not finish as complex as rich yet delicate Charmes. 2011 early picked Charmes by Olivier Leflaive was fragrant elegance while 2006 from Remi Jobard-Chabloz was showing pre-mox. 2008 Bouchard Pere Gouttes d’Or had depth and length and was the delightful surprise. Less problems in serving whites correctly but an excellent job was done all at the right temperatures that impressed.

The four red Burgundies were well chosen to allow comparison between two 2007 & two 2008 vintages from two regions of Nuits St. Georges rocky Les Vaucrains 1er Cru (Dominique Laurent) and Mazy-Chambertin Grand Cru (Frederic Esmonin). Both were challenging years with 2007 late picking, variable, and approachable wines while 2008 had vineyard issues as well but better intense sometimes “sappy” wines resulted. Laurent has that 200% new oak uniqueness using 100% whole stems in 07 but 50% in 08. The Mazy-Chambertins were more stylish than the NSG with 2007 ready while 2008 was much darker, deeper sweet fruit with rich full structure – clearly best red and perhaps wine of the night. At 15 years of age you don’t necessarily think that there will be a lot of sediment deposit in a wine but there certainly can be. For some reason the 2008 Mazy which needed decanting wasn’t. The result was an amazingly thick sediment (the heavier particles of which settled to the bottom of my glass) but with the finer ones still remaining throughout the wine – that would take some time to fall out. Instead of enjoying the nirvana from patiently aged top red Burgundy with those velvety silky round textures that only develop with time your scribe was left with an edgy disappointing impression. It may still be controversial – especially whether to decant red Burgundy or not – but for me please decant the standing up bottle at the last minute to develop in my glass yet showing that anticipated clear pristine complex smooth liquid texture. Maybe I am too fussy in old age but it seems a shame to not be able to appreciate one of the most important benefits of wine cellaring. Your thoughts?