In December the festive season is upon us with many celebratory dinners – some of which include exciting vertical studies of legendary wine properties. The first one up this month for your scribe was a Chateau Leoville Poyferre vertical on December 5 by Commanderie de Bordeaux at celebrated Boulevard. This St. Julien property has been highlighted on this Blog several times previously with the last vertical on January 23, 2017 linked here. Six of the eight wines this time were tasted nearly 6 years ago at that vertical and subsequently as well so this was an interesting update.
Our first wonderful comparison were the two 2015 whites from Bordeaux well paired with the exquisite pate en croute. What a big difference in style to these excellent wines with the small production La Clarte de Haut-Brion (and La Mission Haut-Brion) using 35% new oak for 73% Sémillon & 27% Sauvignon Blanc with Domaine de Chevalier using more new oak 55% and extended batonnage (stirring settled lees) for the opposite ratio of 75% Sauvignon Blanc & 25% Sémillon. Another difference was the closures with La Clarte in standard quality cork and Chevalier the first year using Diam 30 (next year 2016 also red used Diam 30). Proprietor Olivier Bernard told me he did this to avoid so much bottle variation from natural corks but it didn’t work on this occasion as the three bottles varied from slight pre-mox to pristine complexity with freshness. Great start.
The two flights of reds with 4 vintages each followed with the oldest served before the youngest (but 2005 was still 18 years old) and this Chateau production consistency always on the improve. Reference wine notes on the first four of 96, 95, 86, and 82 in the 2017 Blog cited above. Also the 1982 was noted in the 1982 retrospectives of January 3, 2022 here, and April 3, 2023 here.
First Flight of 1996, 1995, 1986, 1982:
1996 LEOVILLE POYFERRE: First one served was impressive indeed with dense generous deep plummy earthy fruit with structured tannins coming together but no rush. Start of changing style with new consultant Michel Rolland using 50% new oak. This bottle still rather dumb with spiced coffee aromas but slightly marred by a faint note of dusty brett. Wine should still develop well with more maturity.
1995 LEOVILLE POYFERRE: Less deep at the edge with a floral herbal very 95 slightly softer than 1996 styling that is drinking lovely now. So enjoyable with a remarkable innovative handmade crown pasta dish that was full of delicious umami porcini flavours. What a combo!
1986 LEOVILLE POYFERRE: Somewhat controversial year for LP with low scores originally from wine writers including an 87 from Robert Parker. Your scribe is a fan of 1986 Bordeaux late picked in the upper Medoc of St. Julien and Pauillac. Check out again our bullish report on 1986 on a tasting with Bill Blatch of the 3 Leovilles posted September 19, 2022. Younger vines on replanting but highly thought of early on by the winemaker and his consultant Emile Peynaud. 1986 is slowly evolving with impressive showing the last 5 years. Still dark young and underrated but with the best pure St. Julien terroir cedar nose with freshness of all the wines this time. Recommended value.
1982 LEOVILLE POYFERRE: Lighter colour with a browning rim. Enticing mature exotica bouquet but some sediment in my glass affecting the smooth delicate texture. Not the best bottle of 1982. Group voted it wine of the first flight in a close decision with 1986 with no support given for 1996 & 1995.
Second flight of 2005, 2003, 2002 and 2000:
2005 LEOVILLE POYFERRE: Dark and youthful red tones. Blend is 68% Cab Sauv, 26% Merlot & 6% Petit Verdot. Nose tight and rather closed. Really like the power intensity of balanced fruit and structure with elegance underneath. My fav for unlimited potential. A future winner that is worth searching out.
2003 LEOVILLE POYFERRE: Hot Summer weather resulted in a unique vintage somewhat similar to current global warming. Result is better than you would expect and though ripe thicker black currant jam is voluptuous and rather good. Delicious with the amazing lamb course prepared by talented Chef Roger Ma and brigade.
2002: LEOVILLE POYFERRE: Quite dark and deep. Unheralded difficult year so much less ripeness than the 2003 but shows good fruit on a plateau of enjoyment now and was the surprise of the night.
2000: LEOVILLE POYFERRE: Lauded year and delivers bright lovely forwardly drinking quality. More new oak at 80% and appreciate the figs with olives in an admirable opulent texture. Easy to like. Group fav of second flight though your scribe prefers the potential of 2005.
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