Archive for the ‘Uncategorized’ Category

Question: How many different grape varieties are permitted for use in Champagne?

Answer: NINE. This question was answered back on June 6, 2018 linked here as 6 varieties. However the authorization has expanded to 9 varieties with the inclusion of PINOT GRIS (FROMENTEAU), VOLTIS, & CHARDONNAY ROSE. The three key classic main grapes usually used continue to be CHARDONNAY, PINOT NOIR, & PINOT MEUNIER but presently very minor roles are played for ARBANNE, PETIT MESLIER & PINOT BLANC as well as the three new inclusions.

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The hot dry twin Bordeaux vintages of 1990 & 1989 still elicit opinionated responses as they mature. We did a 25 year comparison of them reported on February 22, 2016 linked here. Preferably you have to go by your individual property assessments in those two vintages. Your scribe through his wine experiences prefers 1989 over 1990 for Pichon Lalande & Mouton and leans to the perfection of both Haut-Brion & La Mission Haut-Brion as well. The opposite preference of mine is for 1990 in Leoville Las Cases, Leoville Barton, Lafite, Latour, and Margaux – except that 1989 Palmer is a super star. Many properties produced excellent wines in both vintages like Montrose, Pichon Baron, and Lynch Bages. La Commanderie de Bordeaux Vancouver helpfully organized an update on October 20, 2025 at Boulevard Restaurant for a dinner featuring 1990 Left Bank red Bordeaux.

A key exciting attraction was the attendance of NIcolas Glumineau Directeur General of Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande providing valuable insights. Lots of your Blog postings on Pichon Comtesse back to June 18, 2013 here plus June 15, 2020 and February 14, 2022 for further detailed background.

Our recent 1990 Bordeaux event commenced with an unusual sweet aperitif of the quality 2009 PHILIPPONNAT SUBLIME RESERVE SEC of 100% Chardonnay using only first press of all Premier & Grand Cru vineyards with degorgement January 2022 (12+ years on lees) adding a high 30 grams/liter dosage.

Limited production of this Blanc de Blancs of only 7500 bottles makes a statement of honeyed apricot/peach and candied mandarin with a round leesy creamy butterscotch flavour. Interesting opener but would show better IMHO with a foie gras course or light fruity dessert.

The finale was Wine of the Night with the memorable 1990 CHATEAU D’YQUEM SAUTERNES LUR-SALUCES as the sweetest most powerful last one of that historic trio. Amazing blockbuster with so much complex flavour length already but what a future of ever more developing nuances of complexity! Wow.

Two vintages 2019 & 2015 of CHÂTEAU CARBONNIEUX BLANC Grand Cru Classé de Graves from the Perrin Family in Pessac-Leognan worked marvellously with the exquisite Lobster/Burrata first course. Like how this blend of 65/35 Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon with wood aging at only 13 abv shows bright acidity being so serviceable and matches well with food. Still relatively good value too. Preferred the fresher younger 2019 but both quite similar and no rush to drink up. Will soften up and show more of the Semillon character with further aging. Lovely drinking young or older.

Seven properties 1990 in two flights showing off their attributes at 35 years of age plus a mystery wine is exciting anticipation. Some thoughts:

1990 CHATEAU PAPE CLEMENT: Bernard Magrez has brought attention to this old estate from the 1300s in Pessac-Leognan particularly since the late 1990s with strict grape selection, less new oak, full fruit, and best winemaking know-how. This 1990 has a paling edge with a prominent unusual open charcoal bouquet. Quite approachable even though structured balance but lacks somewhat in complexity. Some Graves styling. Drink currently. Popular in first flight voting.

1990 DOMAINE DE CHEVALIER: Darker depth with a lovely clean tertiary nose of leather and tobacco. Stylish smooth fruit of plums with rounded tannins elegance. Property often surprises you with its longer ageability. Prefer the more textured sweet tannins integration since Stephane Derencourt started consulting after this from 1998. A bit smoky yet clean. Good bottle before the more consistent use of Diam closures for white in 2015 & red in 2016. Ready on a plateau of enjoyment perfect with the delightful homemade pasta course.

1990 CHÂTEAU LÉOVILLE BARTON: First of three St. Juliens showing much better than at the vertical of this property last month – linked here at posting October 7, 2025. Big fruit depth and energetic concentrated “Claret”. Perhaps a shade too young and earthy with not enough elegance but is really solid. Believe this will improve and throw off some of that still big fruit, acids, and young tannins still not perfectly integrated. No rush. Potential.

1990 CHÂTEAU GRUAUD LAROSE: Deep dark look. Full opulent softening cedar with mint textbook St. Julien from a property known for ageing ability. Developed nicely and showing clearly the best of the first flight tonight but not the group fav in this admirable flight.

1990 CHÂTEAU LEOVILLE LAS CASES: Lots to admire here.My favourite red of the horizontal. Dark black currant cassis is so rich yet so elegant and complex. Starting on a long wonderful plateau of amazement. End of the 7% Petit Verdot contribution that was adding to the precise blend definition. Nicolas likes the generous style of 1990 but perhaps generally prefers the 1989s.

1990 CHÂTEAU PICHON LALANDE: A problem year with the General passing and the winemaker changing but mainly the omission of the needed press wine for depth and more body. Nevertheless every time I try this wine recently it shows the Pichon Comtesse darker than I expected with old days elegance and definitely the unique terroir. Best bottle yet though the fruit is starting to dry up so enjoy it currently. Nicolas is looking now mostly for freshness with a more prominent Cabernet focus. Toast to May de Lencquesaing 100th birthday on May 17, 2025!

1990 CHÂTEAU MOUTON ROTHSCHILD: Another underperformer in 1990 with a historic Francis Bacon label. 81CS/10CF/9M does show a refined lighter Mouton cadet bouquet but as their website notes does have that ripe forwardly “mature prunes macerated fruit” styling more forwardly drinking. Beautiful with the striploin.

1981 CHATEAU PICHON LALANDE: Served double blind as a mystery wine. Herbal, earthy and mellow. Everyone is thinking it is probably another 1990 or maybe a different Pichon vintage. I guessed 1979 Pichon because of the higher acidity showing protecting the still dark maturing red colour. Surprised it was 1981 an underrated fav of mine that usually has more fruit than this bottle and less bitter characteristics – this is more like the leaner 1979 style. Fun.

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Question: Which wine region is most underrated for producing world class Chardonnay?

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The 2003 vintage in Europe was a harbinger of the warmer weather that was to come in the future. A rather controversial wine year in 2003 on release everywhere including Bordeaux and Burgundy. Winemakers now are well prepared with a better grasp than they did 20 years ago of what is required in both the vineyards and the cellar to make successful balanced wines in hot conditions. The extreme conditions from the very high temperatures in the growing season of 2003 did result in some overripe low acidity wines that overwhelmed the terroir definition that is always so much admired. In Bordeaux the clay soils of St. Estephe helped the vines get enough moisture and with the later ripening Cabernet Sauvignon in Pauillac & St. Julien produced some wonderful wines for longer ageing compared to the Right Bank. Similarly in Burgundy many top producers took advantage of the conditions to make ripe rich creamy concentrated Pinot Noir with enough structure and depth to develop with cellaring. The early initial lower ratings for the uneven quality of then higher alcohol 2003s are being revised as the reality is that some properties have produced excellent wine.

Therefore it was with anticipation that the Vancouver Group of Eight met on October 7, 2025 for Event #135 at Blue Water Cafe to assess and enjoy nine highly regarded red Burgundy properties over a wonderful dinner prepared by talented Executive Chef Frank Pabst and his brigade.

We started with 2008 VEUVE CLICQUOT PONSARDIN LA GRANDE DAME BRUT the first one from winemaker Dominique Dermarville from this classic year with the highest percentage of Pinot Noir at 92 & 8 Chardonnay all Grand Cru vineyards. Impressed how fresh and youthful it tasted with fuller depth plus elegance as it developed in the glass. Delicious. Exquisite with the stylish scallop starter. No rush. We finished up with 2009 CHATEAU RIEUSSEC SAUTERNES full rich sweet caramel notes that was smartly paired with a dessert featuring pineapple, mango, and coconut macaroon. The main event was these nine high classified 2003 red Burgundies in two flights:

First Flight:

2003 CLOS SAINT-DENIS GRAND CRU NICOLAS POTEL: Terroir leans to floral red fruits charming aromatics with silkier tannins. Here shows a paler browning rim. This had more punching down extraction than some but not enough fruit is left. Dry. Coarser. Drink up.

2003 CLOS DE TART GRAND CRU MOMMESSIN: A favourite property of your scribe. See previous write-ups of May 20, 2024 & December 12, 2016 linked here. Known for finesse & elegance with complex bouquet and rich balance. Very dark deep look. Evolving much better showing dense rounding fruit with nine more years of bottle age than in my 2106 note. Not the classic style of 2005, 1990, or 1985 but drinking very well at higher 14.5 abv. Ian Mottershead captured it with his comment “Don’t dismiss it by extract alone because it is a lovely wine.” Really enjoyed this wine more with the special pasta course.

2003 CLOS-VOUGEOT GRAND CRU VIEILLES VIGNES CHÂTEAU DE LA TOUR: Label lists Proprietaires J. Labet & N. Dechelette but is run by Francois Labet and son Edouard. Beautifully situated big property just below the Chateau organic since 1992. Impressive view of the vineyards from this winery which shows in the background of my personal photo on this Blog site. Makes 3 Cuvees of Classic, VV (our selection) and Hommage Jean Morin (specially picked for one bunch near the stock of each vine for more density). Opinions varied with Blair Curtis “favourite of first flight”, Bill Knutson “lacks depth”, and yours truly “Paler edge, stylish, delicious flavours but a little bit too light”. Says only 13 abv. Surprised because on another occasion the 2003 Classic seemed to me very ripe and thick. Likely to encounter some bottle variation.

2003 ECHEZEAUX GRAND CRU DOMAINE DES PERDRIX: Heaviest bottle weight by far states Mis en Bouteille Par B. et C. Devillard at 13.8 abv. This has been A. Rodet of the Devillard family since 1986. Choice property with clay along with limestone in mostly Dessus that suited the hot conditions of 2003. Dark red to the rim with an excellent fruit bouquet. Underrated improved property with lower yields that combines power with stylish delicacy and finesse. Threw the most sediment left thickly all in the punt of the bottle. Your scribe’s fav of the First Flight.

Second Flight:

2003 LATRICIÈRES-CHAMBERTIN GRAND CRU LOUIS JADOT: Latin for “Nothing Much” but misnamed. Much to like in this negociant offering from Jadot. Spicy, earthy, less body but always from a cooler less tannic site than Mazis. Stylish & balanced for current enjoyment.

2003 GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN CLOS ST JACQUES 1ER CRU VIEILLE VIGNE DOMAINE FOURRIER: Outstanding site of near Grand Cru classification. Producer of one of the only five vineyard strips in Clos St Jacques of old vines south facing running horizontally down the hill next to Rousseau to the west. Unfortunately this bottle started out rather musty on the nose. Cleared somewhat with time and airing but earthy green herbal notes (not jammy) and admirable structure is the best part. Imported by Rosenthal Wine Merchant New York. Try another bottle for an expected better showing.

2003 CHAMBERTIN-CLOS-DE-BEZE GRAND CRU BOUCHARD PÈRE & FILS: Great site shows well with the south part having more marl in the soil even better. Good bright deep young red right to the rim. Tad exotic spice on the nose but is still rather closed in. Like the impressive concentration without being over the top. Rather classic. Well done. Needs more time to develop complexity.

2003 LE CORTON GRAND CRU BOUCHARD PÈRE & FILS: Another one both at 13.5 abv from this outstanding house with nine generations of experience. Now owned by Groupe Artemis Domaines (Francois Pinault Family) see my recent visit Link October 21, 2024 here. Dark deep intense fruit not open completely but amazing wine. Admire the full rich fruit that is most backward of the tasting. Long ways to go but optimistic it will come around as 20+ years is not enough. Two beauties from Bouchard are still developing and successful in the difficult vintage.

2003 RICHEBOURG GRAND CRU DOMAINE MÉO-CAMUZET: Excellent wine from Jean-Nicolas Meo at only 13 abv. Check out our recent Vosne-Romanee Aux Brulees vertical from them in my February 10, 2025 Blog linked here. The 2003 of Aux Brulees didn’t show nearly as perfectly as this Richebourg. Good comparison of Richebourg styles from verticals of M-C & DRC (but no 2003) linked here on August 10, 2020.

Meo-Camuzet smartly started harvest early on August 28 eliminating the shrivelled raisin grapes. What a success. Open exotic complex fruit (without stems) of beautiful cherries and subtle spices. Like the minerals with the velvety textures. A treat for sure. Wine of the Night. Shows that some outstanding wine was made in 2003!

A few closing comments. Your scribe preferred the second flight a lot more than the first one but some felt they were very similar in their high quality. Kudos to Melissa Lu Assistant Wine Director at Blue Water Cafe (and more often by Wine Director Calen Macdonald) for doing an exemplary job in slowly carefully decanting all nine red Burgundies without any fine sediment appearing in the wine glass. What a joy to enjoy the special silky textures of these great wines with no interfering small particle notes. Congrats indeed. Blair summed the tasting up appropriately with his comment “2003 didn’t mask the distinct terroirs as much as I expected. Impressed.”

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Question: Any new ideas about using AI for insights into fine wines?

Answer: For sure inroads are being made for the use of Artificial Intelligence in the wine industry. Lots of us have experience with ChatGPT for wine note descriptions – instead of those from a real wine critic. The latest intriguing idea I have seen is Preferabli.com who have Sensorial AI with a better database that is useful for the wine industry – and food & hospitality in general. Intriguing how it finds wines that suit your own preferences for bouquet and taste. Very personal in the recommendations found. Check it out. Also a helpful recent article on them in The Drinks Business here.