The 2003 vintage in Europe was a harbinger of the warmer weather that was to come in the future. A rather controversial wine year in 2003 on release everywhere including Bordeaux and Burgundy. Winemakers now are well prepared with a better grasp than they did 20 years ago of what is required in both the vineyards and the cellar to make successful balanced wines in hot conditions. The extreme conditions from the very high temperatures in the growing season of 2003 did result in some overripe low acidity wines that overwhelmed the terroir definition that is always so much admired. In Bordeaux the clay soils of St. Estephe helped the vines get enough moisture and with the later ripening Cabernet Sauvignon in Pauillac & St. Julien produced some wonderful wines for longer ageing compared to the Right Bank. Similarly in Burgundy many top producers took advantage of the conditions to make ripe rich creamy concentrated Pinot Noir with enough structure and depth to develop with cellaring. The early initial lower ratings for the uneven quality of then higher alcohol 2003s are being revised as the reality is that some properties have produced excellent wine.
Therefore it was with anticipation that the Vancouver Group of Eight met on October 7, 2025 for Event #135 at Blue Water Cafe to assess and enjoy nine highly regarded red Burgundy properties over a wonderful dinner prepared by talented Executive Chef Frank Pabst and his brigade.
We started with 2008 VEUVE CLICQUOT PONSARDIN LA GRANDE DAME BRUT the first one from winemaker Dominique Dermarville from this classic year with the highest percentage of Pinot Noir at 92 & 8 Chardonnay all Grand Cru vineyards. Impressed how fresh and youthful it tasted with fuller depth plus elegance as it developed in the glass. Delicious. Exquisite with the stylish scallop starter. No rush. We finished up with 2009 CHATEAU RIEUSSEC SAUTERNES full rich sweet caramel notes that was smartly paired with a dessert featuring pineapple, mango, and coconut macaroon. The main event was these nine high classified 2003 red Burgundies in two flights:
First Flight:
2003 CLOS SAINT-DENIS GRAND CRU NICOLAS POTEL: Terroir leans to floral red fruits charming aromatics with silkier tannins. Here shows a paler browning rim. This had more punching down extraction than some but not enough fruit is left. Dry. Coarser. Drink up.
2003 CLOS DE TART GRAND CRU MOMMESSIN: A favourite property of your scribe. See previous write-ups of May 20, 2024 & December 12, 2016 linked here. Known for finesse & elegance with complex bouquet and rich balance. Very dark deep look. Evolving much better showing dense rounding fruit with nine more years of bottle age than in my 2106 note. Not the classic style of 2005, 1990, or 1985 but drinking very well at higher 14.5 abv. Ian Mottershead captured it with his comment “Don’t dismiss it by extract alone because it is a lovely wine.” Really enjoyed this wine more with the special pasta course.
2003 CLOS-VOUGEOT GRAND CRU VIEILLES VIGNES CHÂTEAU DE LA TOUR: Label lists Proprietaires J. Labet & N. Dechelette but is run by Francois Labet and son Edouard. Beautifully situated big property just below the Chateau organic since 1992. Impressive view of the vineyards from this winery which shows in the background of my personal photo on this Blog site. Makes 3 Cuvees of Classic, VV (our selection) and Hommage Jean Morin (specially picked for one bunch near the stock of each vine for more density). Opinions varied with Blair Curtis “favourite of first flight”, Bill Knutson “lacks depth”, and yours truly “Paler edge, stylish, delicious flavours but a little bit too light”. Says only 13 abv. Surprised because on another occasion the 2003 Classic seemed to me very ripe and thick. Likely to encounter some bottle variation.
2003 ECHEZEAUX GRAND CRU DOMAINE DES PERDRIX: Heaviest bottle weight by far states Mis en Bouteille Par B. et C. Devillard at 13.8 abv. This has been A. Rodet of the Devillard family since 1986. Choice property with clay along with limestone in mostly Dessus that suited the hot conditions of 2003. Dark red to the rim with an excellent fruit bouquet. Underrated improved property with lower yields that combines power with stylish delicacy and finesse. Threw the most sediment left thickly all in the punt of the bottle. Your scribe’s fav of the First Flight.
Second Flight:
2003 LATRICIÈRES-CHAMBERTIN GRAND CRU LOUIS JADOT: Latin for “Nothing Much” but misnamed. Much to like in this negociant offering from Jadot. Spicy, earthy, less body but always from a cooler less tannic site than Mazis. Stylish & balanced for current enjoyment.
2003 GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN CLOS ST JACQUES 1ER CRU VIEILLE VIGNE DOMAINE FOURRIER: Outstanding site of near Grand Cru classification. Producer of one of the only five vineyard strips in Clos St Jacques of old vines south facing running horizontally down the hill next to Rousseau to the west. Unfortunately this bottle started out rather musty on the nose. Cleared somewhat with time and airing but earthy green herbal notes (not jammy) and admirable structure is the best part. Imported by Rosenthal Wine Merchant New York. Try another bottle for an expected better showing.
2003 CHAMBERTIN-CLOS-DE-BEZE GRAND CRU BOUCHARD PÈRE & FILS: Great site shows well with the south part having more marl in the soil even better. Good bright deep young red right to the rim. Tad exotic spice on the nose but is still rather closed in. Like the impressive concentration without being over the top. Rather classic. Well done. Needs more time to develop complexity.
2003 LE CORTON GRAND CRU BOUCHARD PÈRE & FILS: Another one both at 13.5 abv from this outstanding house with nine generations of experience. Now owned by Groupe Artemis Domaines (Francois Pinault Family) see my recent visit Link October 21, 2024 here. Dark deep intense fruit not open completely but amazing wine. Admire the full rich fruit that is most backward of the tasting. Long ways to go but optimistic it will come around as 20+ years is not enough. Two beauties from Bouchard are still developing and successful in the difficult vintage.
2003 RICHEBOURG GRAND CRU DOMAINE MÉO-CAMUZET: Excellent wine from Jean-Nicolas Meo at only 13 abv. Check out our recent Vosne-Romanee Aux Brulees vertical from them in my February 10, 2025 Blog linked here. The 2003 of Aux Brulees didn’t show nearly as perfectly as this Richebourg. Good comparison of Richebourg styles from verticals of M-C & DRC (but no 2003) linked here on August 10, 2020.
Meo-Camuzet smartly started harvest early on August 28 eliminating the shrivelled raisin grapes. What a success. Open exotic complex fruit (without stems) of beautiful cherries and subtle spices. Like the minerals with the velvety textures. A treat for sure. Wine of the Night. Shows that some outstanding wine was made in 2003!
A few closing comments. Your scribe preferred the second flight a lot more than the first one but some felt they were very similar in their high quality. Kudos to Melissa Lu Assistant Wine Director at Blue Water Cafe (and more often by Wine Director Calen Macdonald) for doing an exemplary job in slowly carefully decanting all nine red Burgundies without any fine sediment appearing in the wine glass. What a joy to enjoy the special silky textures of these great wines with no interfering small particle notes. Congrats indeed. Blair summed the tasting up appropriately with his comment “2003 didn’t mask the distinct terroirs as much as I expected. Impressed.”
You might also like:
