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Question: Is it easy for an experienced taster like you to notice the difference in quality of a Champagne rated 95 points, versus one rated 96 points?

Answer: I really like your question. As you have noticed on this long time Blog I do not score wines. I have been required to score in wine judging competitions and on other occasions. However, I don’t believe in simplifying the sensory experience of wine tasting with just a number.

Easy to do so using a 1 to 3 star system or the IWFS Vintage Card scoring conceived by Andre Simon with a maximum rating of 7. Even the 20 point range seems to work better where 17 is a pretty good score but the equivalent 85 on the 100 point scale isn’t.

A problem with the 100 point scale started successfully by Robert Parker is that it allows too much small differentiation of scores – like a 95 vs 96. This “experienced taster” as you kindly called me can’t tell the quality difference between a Champagne (or other wine) scored 95 or 96.

It is important to look behind the score to see who is the scorer. Is this someone who consistently tends to score higher or lower than the norm? Perhaps the scorer makes a big leap every 5 points so a 95 is quite a bit less quality in their eyes than a 96 – sort of like the established difference between an 89 and a 90. A big difference indeed! Much more so than say between a 92 and 93 score. Moreover scores in a vertical, horizontal, or other comparative wine tasting probably are more credible and easier to interpret as to the perceived quality of each wine among the group judged.

Also there’s just too much “wine score creep” where perfection at 100 now is all too common and generally scores are inflated being much higher right across the board than in the old days. See “What is a 100 point wine?” posted October 12, 2015 linked here and “100 Point scores should be taken with a grain of salt” on May 27, 2019. Maybe all wine scores now need to be taken with skepticism! Will AI solve this for us?

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Port has been an important focus on your Blog dating back to the first Vintage Port article December 30, 2013 on our 2 year Anniversary linked here. Your scribe is coming up to completing his 14th year of “wine & food ramblings” for the IWFS website and looking back there are many Port highlights posted for background reference including Masters of Port October 24, 2022, Older Vintage Ports January 8, 2024, and Taylor Vintage Ports April 29, 2024. We also have highlighted Tawny Ports with Taylor on October 24, 2016, and November 11, 2019 plus Graham on March 5, 2018 all linked here for you. Milena & Jim Robertson the long time indefatigable leaders of the IWFS Vancouver Branch are Port aficionados and have been instrumental in organizing these educational Port seminars. Another brilliant one was held on November 7, 2025 featuring a tasting/lunch of nine Vintage & Nacional Vintage Ports all from Quinta do Noval. The event was in support of Vancouver DICED (Diverse Innovation in Culinary Educational Development) Culinary School. We were fortunate to be led through this insightful tasting by visiting Cristiano Van Zeller (making Port Wines in the Douro region since 1982), his wine agent Jack H. Segal Managing Director of Seacove Premium Wine & Spirits, and Leagh Barkley Master of Port Canada 2022 Competition winner. Cristiano generously donated a bottle of VZ 1888 Vintage Port to the DICED cause so watch out for the auction or sale of this old treasure.

Our tasting list included three regular Vintage Ports and six Nacional Vintage Ports from 1997 back to 1963. The Quinta do Noval name first appeared in 1715, was acquired by a port shipper Antonio Jose da Silva in 1894, and since 1993 is with AXA Millesimes Group. It is the only historic Port shipper that bears the name of its unique vineyard. The famous ungrafted “Nacional” vines planted in 1921 are grown there but only 1 hectare left and Cristiano added 1900 vines in 1987. The long history includes the legendary 1931 (only declared by 3 shippers after the big crop late picked widely declared 1927 with 30 – the largest ever) that established their reputation. Your scribe has been privileged to taste the 1931 several times (but not recently) including a vertical by Haskell Norman for the Marin County IWFS on January 26, 1986 of nine Noval Vintage Ports from 1955 to 1931 – at 55 years comparable to tasting the 1970 today at the same age. Haskell played an important marketing role in those days for Vintage Port with annual end of January historic tastings of Warre (1990), Croft (1989), 1945s (1988), Graham (1987) and Quinta Do Noval (1986). We had 1931 and 1934 both regular & Nacional but surprisingly on this occasion the regular of both vintages shone more brightly with smooth full mellow balanced fruit. The 1931N was sweeter but more spirit came through in a different liquorish sticky style. Barney Rhodes said it was “not the best bottle” and Andy Quady found “Roast beef coming out of the oven”. The 1934 (12 shippers) regular was the group favourite and Cristiano confirmed it is his fav as well – maybe because those historic younger vines were three years older. Good one in 1934 to look for at Auction at an underrated value price.

1997 QUINTA DO NOVAL VINTAGE: Smaller production than the great 1994 but widely declared. In answering my question as to what to look for Cristiano advised that in younger Vintage Port you want “Blackberry with an intensity of black fruits plus a lot of structure” then as they mature at 10-15 years “an evolution of density – like an iron fist in a velvet glove” and “very old become mellow with a drier character of tertiary development with complexity”. This regular impressed Leagh who found “very good fruit and excellent colour nearing 30 years of age.” Nice start.

1997 QUINTA DO NOVAL NACIONAL: Darker than regular right to the edge. Clean, rich, and spicy. Structured yet mellow. Coming around and showing beautifully already. Can develop further.

1994 QUINTA DO NOVAL NACIONAL: Deeper look. More depth of ripe concentrated black fruits and even more structure than 1997. Perhaps slightly baked. This should continue to develop well with still lots of fruit left

1975 QUINTA DO NOVAL NACIONAL: Lighter year declared by 17 shippers showing a definite “Maple” note with softer well developed tertiary notes. Noval was not at the top of its present high quality curve. Drink now.

1970 QUINTA DO NOVAL NACIONAL: Loads of wonderful fruit developing complexity here. 23 shippers declared this classic vintage. Liked the cinnamon plus mocha notes with the full voluptuous balanced texture. On a fantastic plateau of enjoyment now. Group fav and found to be showing remarkable by Cristiano & myself.

1966 QUINTA DO NOVAL VINTAGE: 20 shippers of this undervalued vintage. These are 60 years old or twice the age of the mid nineties tasted above. Ready. Showing more development than Fonseca. 1963 got the better initial ratings but recently have found 1966 their equal and often surpassing it. Fonseca & Graham 1966 are exceptional and more youthful than this. Cristiano doesn’t know why 1963 is so adored as he feels “1966 is a better Port vintage”. Noval is powerful and rich but colour fading. Drier. Enjoy.

1966 QUINTA DO NOVAL NACIONAL: Similar look but more plums and better acidity freshness. It has complexity of flavour and some length. On a lovely plateau of tertiary best drinking now.

1964 QUINTA DO NOVAL NACIONAL: Not a well known vintage. Looks light red from a distance but a very tawny colour look in the middle. Dried fruits and maple syrup. Some figs, nuts, and toffee caramel. Surprise of the tasting.

1963 QUINTA DO NOVAL VINTAGE: 25 shippers of universally declared year. Looks like a very light tawny port. Tastes very dry and a tawny would have better nutty long wood aged sweeter styling. Drink up.

Excellent Ports on their own and with the tasty chicken thighs lunch outstandingly prepared by Milena – and those pistachios. More wines from Portugal were available including refreshing acidity JOYA white at only 9.5 abv, small production aged 2004 Curriculum Vitae CV at 15 abv Douro DOC Tinto barrique aged, and magnum of 1997 Porta Dos Cavaleiros from Dao.

Cristiano says Chinese food can work with Vintage Port and if you have dry ports even sushi. Experiment.

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Question: Would you please update us on how the harvest in Bordeaux is looking for 2025?

Answer: Early days but reports are coming in about the heat and reduced yields but optimistic on the thick skins phenolic ripeness of the grapes. Even Sauternes has finished picking with favourable botrytis. It probably will be somewhat variable from property to property but 2025 in Bordeaux is showing great promise. Historically every 5th year starting with 1985 has resulted in excellent vintages. Will 2025 join that roster? Kim Mead the wine advisor for the Vancouver Branch of The International Wine & Food Society (with Alvin Nirenberg CellarMaster of Commanderie de Bordeaux in Vancouver) have just returned from Bordeaux and filed today this detailed report of first impressions here on My VanCity at https://myvancity.ca/ Check out this excellent update and stay tuned in for more developments.

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Fortunate to compare Left Bank red Bordeaux horizontals of 1990 and 1996 on consecutive evenings. Two excellent vintages with the 1990 displaying continued variable development at 35 years of age as posted here on October 27.

The vintage twin 1995 (both large crops) achieved wonderful ripening Merlot but in 1996 September/October provided excellent weather allowing superb ripening of the later picked Left Bank Cabernet Sauvignon. Perhaps 1996 can be compared to 1986. On October 21, 2025 the Vancouver Group of Eight held Event #136 at Blue Water Cafe featuring nine top 1996 Left Bank red Bordeaux approaching 30 years of age. Delighted to have with us again for this event Nicolas Glumineau, Directeur General of Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande.

We commenced with 2002 PLOYEZ-JACQUEMART LIESSE D’HARBONVILLE BRUT CHAMPAGNE a magnificent long lees aging of 17+ years complex structured beauty. From this outstanding Champagne vintage they utilized primary fermentation in used oak casks with no malo resulting in outstanding fresh balance.

The final wine was 2001 CHATEAU DOISY-VEDRINES BARSAC well paired with roasted pear and nuts plus honey. Great year in Sauternes harvested September 27 to October 30 fermented in 60% new oak providing ginger marmalade with quince notes plus refreshing acidity.

The nine 1996 Left Bank red Bordeaux in two flights with a few comments:

1996 CHÂTEAU BRANAIRE-DUCRU, SAINT-JULIEN: Fourth Growth has the lightest edge with open floral herbal notes. Not a classic St. Julien bouquet. This bottle is quite leafy as if the Cab Sauv could have been picked later. Drink currently. Not the best bottle. Prefer the 2000.

1996 DOMAINE DE CHEVALIER, PESSAC-LÉOGNAN: Similar grape blend with majority 65% Cab Sauv but darker with lovely tertiary sweet tobacco highlights. A tad coarse and less refined but enjoyable drinking. Often surprised by the longer aging ability of these older wines tasted at the property with Olivier Bernard. Prefer the subtle more textured integrated tannins this century under Stephane Derenoncourt consulting and consistency now with Diam closures. Shows better with the delicious two way duck course.

1996 CHÂTEAU PALMER, MARGAUX: Amber rim with a rather earthy vegetal nose. Missing the usual dramatic complex flowery bouquet with elegant finesse. Seems big and reluctant here with the 55CS/40M/5PV blend. More difficult appellation for them in 1996 with earlier picked Merlot than further north on the Left Bank for later picked Cab Sauv. Some 5% Petit Verdot but not the large amounts as in the three classics of 1970 and 1966 at 16% and the legendary 1961 at 13%. 1996 not my favourite Palmer – prefer the exciting 1989.

1996 CHÂTEAU LEOVILLE POYFERRE, SAINT-JULIEN: Darkest but a bit dank and mushroomy initially. Cleared somewhat for some of that signature cedar cigar statement but not singing. It does have jammy ripe full bodied fruit. Your scribe has had better cleaner bottles. Opened as aired and warmed. Slightly disappointing underwhelming First Flight.

1996 CHÂTEAU LEOVILLE-LAS CASES, SAINT-JULIEN: Very dark with dense concentrated perfect fruit. Impressive indeed. Still so young but structured with a great future ahead of it. Admire the cassis cigar box textbook St. Julien exploding definition! No Petit Verdot (compared to 7% in 1990) but pure 70CS/14M/16CF blend. Backward but amazing top quality shows through. Powerful yet classic. One of their all time best. Cellar this treasure. My fav.

1996 CHÂTEAU D’ISSAN, MARGAUX: Deep with a paler edge with big ripe fruit is less Margaux-like from 75/25 CS/M for this Third Growth. In very tough company but shows well. Prefer over Palmer in this vintage. Nicolas Glumineau found “red strawberry fruits but the Cab Sauv is not quite ripe”.

1996 CHÂTEAU PICHON LONGUEVILLE COMTESSE DE LALANDE, PAUILLAC: Deep dark super fruit that had been tight early on is now opening near 30 years. 75CS/15M/5CF/5PV and only 50% crop selection added into the Grand Vin. The 1995 is also outstanding. Wonderful mocha espresso cedar is drinking beautifully tonight. Ian Mottershead admired “both power & finesse”. Nicolas stated “noble & elegant – more in the style I am producing today.” His favourites in this tasting were “Pichon & LLC in different styles”. A keen music lover, he suggests listening to “Beethoven’s 7th Symphony” for a heightened sensory experience. I really like his Led Zeppelin No Quarter recommendation for 2010. A celebratory congratulatory salute to May de Lencquesaing for this great wine!

1996 CHÂTEAU MOUTON ROTHSCHILD, PAUILLAC: Good dark colour but less of the attractive big cedar cigar Mouton bouquet. Like the Gu Gan “Modern Calligraphy” heart label. 77CS/13M/10CF was picked September 27 to October 9. A little atypical tending to a more California-like eucalyptus menthol mint nose. Forwardly opulent smooth and round but 1995 is fuller bodied.. Less weight than expected but delicious now. Nicolas said “tannins but not as good as PL & LLC though improved in the glass in a mellow forward manner.”

1996 CHÂTEAU HAUT-BRION, PESSAC-LEOGNAN: Deep dark again with strict clean grape selection obviously for 50M/39CS/11CF blend and 60% chosen for the Grand Vin. More Merlot with excellent balance this is clearly the most elegant of the nine wines. Prefer their 1995 – but of course the legendary 1989! Admire the wonderful balance here. Nicolas commented “so elegant!”. Some of his fav wines beside Pichon Comtesse include “like Haut-Brion, Trotanoy, Figeac, and Lafite – when it is good.”

All five wines in this second flight are very good indeed and sublime served with the local partridge. Lower alcohols at only 12.5/13 abv. provides cooler fruit. They are young and still very fresh at nearly 30 years of age – with developing complexity. Shows the great quality wines that Bordeaux is capable of producing. Congrats.

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Question: How many different grape varieties are permitted for use in Champagne?

Answer: NINE. This question was answered back on June 6, 2018 linked here as 6 varieties. However the authorization has expanded to 9 varieties with the inclusion of PINOT GRIS (FROMENTEAU), VOLTIS, & CHARDONNAY ROSE. The three key classic main grapes usually used continue to be CHARDONNAY, PINOT NOIR, & PINOT MEUNIER but presently very minor roles are played for ARBANNE, PETIT MESLIER & PINOT BLANC as well as the three new inclusions.

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