Archive for the ‘Uncategorized’ Category

Question: Sid would you please briefly explain the term “millerandage”.

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Climate change has been with us for a while. Lots of discussions and some foreboding concerns in the early days back to the politics of Jimmy Carter in the seventies and Al Gore & Margaret Thatcher in the late eighties. Alarm bells have been sounded by many since then but remedial solutions are much slower. Therefore it is encouraging to see the wine industry stepping forward with admirable action. Many winemakers and winery owners are ahead of the pack in making changes in their vineyards and cellars. Also several industry leaders like my long time friend Michelle Bouffard are passionate about the impact of climate change in the wine world and are getting the word out with events like Tasting Climate Change. Well done.

This week your scribe noticed active changes with two important happenings:

Firstly CHÂTEAU LAFLEUR a respected Pomerol with exceptional terroir back to 1872 just announced on August 24, 2025 from the Guinaudeau family ownership team (since 1985) that they have “decided to cease adhering to the stricter appellations of Pomerol and Bordeaux beginning with the 2025 vintage” for all 6 of their wines which will now be designated as “Vin de France”. The reason given is “Climate is changing fast and hard, that much is clear. The vintages 2015, 2019, and above all 2022, were strong evidence of that. 2025 goes a step further. We must think, readapt, act. Our decision-making and the resulting practices are in fact evolving much faster than what is authorized in our Appellations of Origine system.” They believe “This is a strong decision that will allow us to face the reality of climate change with precision and efficiency.” Speculation is that they think it is better to irrigate the vines which are not presently legally allowed but we will see what develops. What other properties might follow suit? Intriguing for sure.

Secondly your scribe attended on August 25, 2025 in Vancouver an interesting seminar VITICULTURAL BRIDGES organized by Hopscotch & Comite Interprofessionnel des Vins D’Alsace presenting WINES OF ALSACE & WINES OF BRITISH COLUMBIA for a cross-regional exchange between two remarkable wine regions. Impressively hosted by personable Van Doren Chan (Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers British Columbia Director) with several winemakers in person (led by knowledgeable Olivier Humbrecht MW of Zind Humbrecht in Alsace & Consultant for Phantom Creek in BC) and on insightful videos. Thought provoking discussions with two panels featuring Alsace and British Columbia Challenging Climate & The Art of Premium Sustainable White Wines with 16 wines and more at a walk around tasting afterwards.

Overall main focus was on the key common grapes from both regions of PINOT GRIS, RIESLING, & PINOT NOIR.

My favs were 2023 DOMAINE ZIND HUMBRECHT RIESLING GRAND CRU RANGEN with full rich pure variety expression needing only more time to further evolve for complexity plus BC Pinot Noirs showing outstandingly and were preferred by me over the improving Alsace ones.

The winner was the amazing complex 2022 MARTIN’S LANE HIEROGLYPH PINOT NOIR single block of 17 year old Pommard clone vines, 80% whole clusters aged in French & Austrian Stockinger oak. GM & Winemaker the brilliant Shawn Munn on the panel explained how they are adapting so well to these climate changes. 2022 UNSWORTH COWICHAN VALLEY PINOT NOIR is lighter but elegant and so charming. Panelist Chris Turyk Director of Marketing & Sales told me the growing concerns about increasing potassium in the vineyards leading to higher pH and lower acidity in the grapes. This is the same problem I noticed in my last Chablis visit with the 2023 & 2024 vintages losing some of that freshness and tension in the resulting wines because of higher potassium levels. No doubt the styles of many wines around the world are evolving because of climate change and it requires winemakers to be alert and to make the necessary prudent changes in the vineyard and in the cellars.

• Lots of key questions were posed for the panelists including:
• Has the challenging climate changed the Vision and Direction of your winery?
• How has it changed your Decision Making & Winemaking practices?
• How is climate change affecting Ripening Curve & Flavour Development?
• Has your approach to crafting Riesling changed?
• Has it threatened your region’s Identity?
• What adaptations in response have been made to Optimize Vine Performance & Fruit Quality?
• How to balance traditional techniques with modern innovations?

Thought-provoking stuff. Hats off for this important spotlight issue! So important.

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Question: Wine grapes seem to be ripening earlier every year so has 2025 started in the northern hemisphere?

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Commanderie de Bordeaux Vancouver held their Summer event with spouses August 18, 2025 on the patio of Riley’s Fish & Steak Restaurant. We were well looked after by an accommodating service staff and the culinary team led by Executive Chefs Dennis Peckham & Jon Chuy and Sommelier Philip Kim. Impressive diverse hors d’oeuvre of tuna, scallop, plus Wagyu beef carpaccio followed by tasty crab cake (all crab no filler) with bacon jam on corn puree got the dinner off to a rousing start.

BOLLINGER SPECIAL CUVEE BRUT NV is a dependable classy aperitif using over 85% of Grand & Premier Cru vineyards and lots of reserve wines in a richer spicier distinctive style.

CHÂTEAU LATOUR-MARTILLAC BLANC PESSAC-LEOGNAN: A fan of this well priced Bordeaux white produced for a long time by the Kressmann family and only one of six properties classified for both red & white wines. They have increased since the eighties plantings of Sauvignon Blanc complementing the Semillon and have been leaders in sorting, blending and lees aging producing top quality Pessac-Leognan whites. Your scribe likes their extensive website full of valuable information. We compared three consecutive vintages and details clearly set out at latourmartillac.com –

2021: 57% Sauvignon Blanc (picked September 9-21) + 43% Semillon (Sept.15-21) Barrel ferment (25% new) Aged 15 months on lees (10 French oak) 13 abv 29000 bottles 2024-2030 Young light green colour – as all three wines show. Fresh leaner taut good acidity (compared to softer 2022) Will continue to develop showing more of the Semillon side. NIce tension.

2020: 68% Sauvignon Blanc (August 24-September 2) + Semillon (Aug.27-Sept. 3) Barrel ferment (25% new) Aged 15 months on lees (10 French oak) 13 abv 33000 bottles 2023-2029 Early harvest smaller concentrated grapes shows more intense full rich body drinking forwardly with more almond & pear notes. Higher  Sauvignon. Seems slightly more than 13 abv compared to other two vintages.

2019: 58% Sauvignon Blanc (picked September 3-16) + 42% Sémillon (Sept. 4-17) Barrel ferment (25% new) Aged 15 months on lees (10 French oak) 13.5 abv 39000 bottles 2022-2028 Interesting service temperature advice given for colder (10C/50F) under 4 years but warmer after 4-5 years aging (12-14C/53-57F) Wonderful best pear aromatics well balanced developing complexity but still young fresh vibrant. All three wines are fruity showing Sauvignon and IMHO will still improve complexity with more Semillon assertion with a few more years aging. Fun comparison.

Two red Bordeaux vintages that your scribe admires are 2005 and 1986. Nineteen years apart but both in rather a classic structured older times way. Usually show that they need more time. The Vancouver Group of Eight experienced a 1986 horizontal linked here on June 30, 2025. Tonight we compared two properties in both vintages:

2005 CHATEAU L’ARROSEE SAINT EMILION Old time fav property written up several times on this site including the 1962 vintage on April 8, 2024 linked here plus two Ask Sid enquiries on December 6, 2018 here & April 10, 2024 here. This 2005 a result of the Caille Family 2002 purchase from pioneer Francois Rodhain (1957-2013) before Domaine Clarence Dillon acquisition in 2013. Lighter stylish elegant (softer than the typical older vintages were) for lovely current drinking. Highest rating (“best ripe”) 93 points at a 32 vintage vertical back to 1957 held in Copenhagen in 2018.

2005 CHATEAU LA LAGUNE HAUT-MEDOC LUDON Darker than L’A. Full ripe big fruit but a tad jammy. Blend is Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Petit Verdot 60/30/10. Some structure and finishing tannic grip but not an outstanding La Lagune for the outstanding 2005 year. Accessible earlier.

1986 CHATEAU L’ARROSEE SAINT EMILION Rather good but my glass had too much fine sediment spoiling the texture. Other glasses perfect. Showed poorly at Copenhagen vertical 85 points as did some other excellent older vintages that can be very good. Obviously bottle variation of older wines applies. Old style coming around but not in the class of the 1962 or 1961.

1986 CHATEAU LA LAGUNE HAUT-MEDOC LUDON Good depth still rather youthful. There is backbone structure with lush full core of fruit balanced by acid and tannin. Preferred by your scribe and others as WOTN. Just had the 1982 which wasn’t as big and structured as this 1986 but was presently more charming, delicious and complex. 1986 will still improve and round out though drinking well now.

2012 CHATEAU GUIRAUD SAUTERNES This Sauternes always has high 35% Sauvignon Blanc with lower Semillon 65%. Used to be even higher around 50 before 2006 partnership purchase that includes Olivier Bernard (Domaine de Chevalier) & Stephan Von Neipperg (Canon La Gaffeliere, Mondotte) replanted (removing red grapes) with a new drainage system. Difficult vintage with a late harvest so is light easy drinking with the appropriate stone fruit dessert. Not a touch on the exquisite 1986 Guiraud full of rich fruit & botrytis to finish up this June at our Left Bank Bordeaux 1986 horizontal event mentioned earlier.

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Question: Is there a change in the different size wine bottles that are allowed to be imported into the USA?

Answer: Yes the TTB (Department of the Treasury Alcohol and Tobacco Tax & Trade Bureau) passed a regulation effective January 3, 2025 amending and expanding the container sizes for flexibility of both wine & spirits. Wine can now be in 25 different listed sizes between the range of smallest of 50mm up to 3 litres (and larger). One interesting note is the Vin Jaune (Yellow Wine) of late picked Savagnin grapes from the Jura region in France that traditionally was in the “Clavelin” 620 ml (21 ounces) oddball size is now allowed to be imported as such. Previously it was brought in legally only in 375 ml or 500 ml. Now we are able to enjoy more of that delicious Poulet au Vin Jaune du Jura (Chicken with Jura wine) in the true size container bottle!

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