On July 20, 2023 World Wine Synergy hosted an excellent “All Greek Lunch & Learn Seminar” at an exciting MIchelin recommended restaurant Nammos Estiatorio. Insightful educational background and commentary was provided by Dr. John Volpe on 13 Greek libations with marvellous Greek food matchings. Nammos is in the capable hands of Owner-Operator Petro Kerasiotis, GM Troy Resch with 3 talented Greek Chefs in the kitchen. World Wine Synergy under the leadership of President Grace Li, Richard Loo, Kristie Or, and Jonathan Chan are doing a wonderful job of sharing in depth knowledge and extensive classy tastings for the wines they represent. This was their latest one following on from the successful Italian experience of Casale del Giglio at La Quercia. With a family winemaking tradition dating back to 1879, Yiannis Boutaris founded the modern Kir-Yianni Winery in 1997 with Estate vineyards at higher elevations in Naoussa & Amyndeon in northern Greece to produce quality terroir driven wines. Presently Ki-Yianni is in their next phase under 5th generation Stelios Boutaris aiming to expand their International focus from 30 countries to 50. The wide selection of available wines mainly from indigenous grape varieties (like Assyrtiko & Xinomavro) are continually improving and represent good value in today’s higher priced wine marketplace. Check some of them out.

Your scribe was particularly curious to try 3 versions of Assyrtiko that originated in the popular PDO Santorini but has expanded to many other regions in Greece. The Santorini one grown on unique volcanic soil with very early harvest at low yields can deliver an amazing depth of concentrated texture while maintaining a dry fresh mineral character. Other regions like here further north at higher elevations can also make terrific Assyrtiko expressing more primary fruit elements with wonderful racy acidity crispness.

The 3 Assyrtiko tasted were interesting – very different from one another.

1. 2022 THE NORTH from vineyards on poor sandy soils at 700 metres in northwestern Macedonia producing low yields at 13.5 abv showed open aromatics of peachy floral notes with wonderful refreshing neutral flavours – perfect when well chilled with food courses especially seafood. Like the expressive most true variety character that this shows. Value.
   
2. 2022 BLE TRACTER (named after their original historic blue tractor) with 60% Assyrtiko, 30% Viognier & 10% Chardonnay. Results in more body and complexity of flavours but IMHO loses some of the identifiable Assyrtiko key identity I really admire.
   
3. 2019 TARSANAS is a higher quality single vineyard 100% Assyrtiko planted in 2003 on the higher mountainous Samaropetra cold-climate region. Barrel fermented and aged with now 3 more years in bottle. This has a deeper colour with prominent new French oak aromas with much more depth of intense fruit. Impressive with rich full 14 abv with better stats compared to The North (3.14 pH vs 3.24; 6.6 total acidity vs 5.5; and 1.5 residual sugar vs 1.9) yet perhaps almost too rich for Assyrtiko styling. May develop further and show even more of the inherent quality there with another year or two of bottle age. Like how you have 3 choices all excellent and yet so different! Similarly with the reds and that enticing acidity balance of Xinomavro grapes from a single vineyard in 2018 DIAPOROS (blended with 12% spicy Syrah) and modern 2019 THE FALLEN OAK from richest soils and 80% French oak (Estate grown half Xinomavro plus 30% Merlot & 20% Syrah). YAMAS!!
   

Question: I like drinking Gruner Veltliner from Austria and wondered if they have a wine classification system?

Answer: Austria is moving towards a more specific designation of origin for all their wines. They presently use three tiers of Municipality (some 458 of them), Grosslage (larger vineyard areas) and the increasingly important single vineyards named Rieden. You will see more use of Riedenwein (or Lagenwein) which will reflect the individual character of specific single vineyard sites producing the highest top quality wines. Austrianvineyards.com has a most useful interactive map explaining in detail all of this. Suggest you look for RIED on the wine label of your Gruner Veltliner and seek out some of these very best wines.

On July 15, 2023 from 12 pm to 4 pm the BC Crab Fishermen’s Association and Mitch’s Catch brought to False Creek Fishermen’s Wharf in Vancouver the 1st (of what we hope will be many future annual celebrations) Crab Fest events. This is yet another innovative seafood project backed by the influential Chefs’ Table Society of BC who just finished another Spot Prawn Festival written up on June 12 here. This Crab Boil of fresh BC Dungeness crabs featured fishers & talented chefs Robert Clark, Dez Lo, Vish Mayekar, Julian Bond, Quang Dang and others including volunteers from Vancouver Community College. There was such a good vibe there on a beautiful hot sunny afternoon including fresh local corn on the cob, live music, games (do you know Jenga or Cornhole?), Granville Island Brewing beer and sours, Fabrique St-George wines, and Sapsucker sparkling water (naturally sweetened with organic maple tree sap). The mission statement is “to raise awareness and make local Dungeness crab more accessible, so you can savour another remarkable taste coming from the coastal waters of British Columbia.” Presently there are 220 licensed vessels and over 800 harvesters placing an emphasis on sustainability with a limited crab season harvesting only males with a minimum size of 165 mm. Also appreciate the support and vocational learning opportunity being given to younger fishers through BC Young Fishermen’s Network. Your scribe strongly advocates that Dungeness crab is an outstanding product being the world’s sweetest and most succulently delicious of all varieties. Some of us advocate that it shows even more complexity served chilled rather than hot so for the expected bigger and even better Crab Fest next year please consider offering this second option. Would require more work with an earlier pre-cooking and refrigerating but certainly worth considering. All in all a most successful limited ticket attendance first run project and congrats are in order! Well done.

What innovative seafood initiatives do you see happening in your local region?

Question: How are the vineyards in Bordeaux looking for 2023?

Answer: Still early days with the next few months until harvest being really crucial. However, the big news is that the warm rainy humid tropical weather conditions have resulted in some of the worst attacks of downy mildew now extensively affecting the leaves and vines in Bordeaux. Not encouraging for yields and overall consistent quality of grapes for 2023. Stay tuned.

Summer is here! It has been since June 21st and continues until September 22nd in the Northern Hemisphere. Of course in the Southern Hemisphere it follows the December solstice not starting till around the 21st/22nd. The finer warmer weather in Summer provides a great emphasis on outdoor dining. Every year The Vancouver Branch of the International Wine & Food Society makes remarkable use of this idea. On Sunday July 9th was the outstanding “Cracklin’ Pig Feast” outside on the large rooftop open patio of members Karen & Larry with organizational help from Milena & Jim plus others. The weather was clear and sunny at 23C (felt warmer) with such delightful fresh air. This time the main menu was well catered by Gauthier plus fresh corn on the cob etc. grilled on the BBQ by members. Like how the wines were limited but of such good value and all improved with a chill. To start a lovely true variety Terre Brulee Chenin Blanc 2021 from Swartland in South Africa by Tania & Vincent Careme. Two reds: Baltos 2018 from Bierzo Spain by Dominio De Tares with 40 year old bush vine popular Mencia grapes handpicked fermented with native yeasts aged 6 months in French & American oak at 13.5 abv showing wonderful “buckets of spicy fruit”; and the warm vintage 2019 helping the simpler Bourgogne AC Pinot Noir from Justin Girardin to shine. To finish up 2009 Passito DamaRosa IGT Toscana Italy 15 abv in 50 cl bottles by La Querce using 100% Canaiolo ripe grapes aged 1 year in wood. The Menu included Ahi Tuna Poke in cones, Burrata, asparagus & walnut on crostini, two welcome salads of quinoa and panzanella. Even a special IWFS design chocolate cake augmented by a cornucopia of fresh local fruits! The piece de resistance of the meal was the amazing roasted cracklin’ baby piglet cut up ready to go with a separate pork belly service as well. All so crisp and tasty. Savoured slowly even better in the fresh outdoors! Recommend to everyone to take advantage of Summer dining in the open air outside scenario. Makes for a delightful event.