Answer: An old rare autochthonous but now enthusiastically revived thick-skin white grape variety planted mostly in southeast Piedmont that is rapidly becoming a cult gem of wine lovers. Usually named Colli Tortonesi DOC & “Derthona” (Tortona old village name) on the wine labels. Exciting new young plantings of it are everywhere in northwest Italy. Timorasso was very popular at the 45th @VanWineFest from several producers showing fragrant aromatics with impressive inherent lively refreshing acidity with some aging potential. Not inexpensive but the best value one was from 2022 Fontanafredda $33.99, organic 2021 Cantine Volpe $42, aged 2018 Tenute Rade $46.99, and 2021 Vietti $ priceless (value beyond price!) so brilliantly paired with roasted butternut squash soup (topped by 2023 EVOO from Villa Delia) at #VIWF Giardino dinner. Try a Timorasso!
The idea of pairing wine and cheese has a very long history that has worked really successfully. Scientists attribute it to the fats in cheese being an excellent balance for the acidity in the wine. Some consumers feel the cheese helps the tannins in a red wine seem less astringent and less bitter. Others rely less on that premise and a more recent trend is serving a white white with most cheeses. Specific matching can get over complicated but everyone agrees that a winning wonderful combination is enjoying the wine & cheese from the same region together.
Confrerie des Chevaliers du Tastevin Vancouver holds an annual “Wine and Cheese Extravaganza” this time held on March 13, 2024 featuring 16 cheeses in 4 flights of 4 each organized by Allison Spurrell, Proprietor of the outstanding shop “Les Amis du Fromage”. Impressive cheese service at the highest level all with a perfect point of ripeness at ideal temperatures. Well done!
There were also 6 Burgundy wines served in 2 flights of 3 whites followed by 3 reds. More details:
JACQUESSON CUVEE 735 BRUT CHAMPAGNE (47% Chard, 33 Pinot Noir, & 20 Pinot Meunier, mainly difficult 2007 vintage 72% + 28 Reserves, only 3.5 g/l dosage, disgorged February 2012) Mature rich round with aged brioche notes from 12 years bottle age.
GASTON CHIQUET BLANC DE BLANCS D’AY GRAND CRU Grower Champagne 100% Chardonnay from the village of Ay disgorged March 2016 was fresher livelier robust with a full creamy delightful texture. The aperitif was enjoyed while listening to a moving live Jane Coop noted guest pianist delivering Beethoven – Sonata in D Major, Op.28 -1st movement: Allegro. A whole different Blog is needed for the enhanced aesthetics of wine with music!
VINCENT GIRARDIN All three whites – winegrowers since 17th century but VG recent only since 1980 expanded from 2 hectares to 20 (40 plots) with House 1992 but sold 2011 with son Pierre returning in 2017.
2000 MEURSAULT 1ER CRU LES CHARMES 13 abv
2000 MEURSAULT 1ER CRU LE PORUZOT-DESSUS 13 abv
2001 PULIGNY-MONTRACHET 1ER CRU LE CAILLERET 13.7 abv
Like the Charmes style combining finer consistent Genevrieres with mineral balanced Perrieres in a rounder combo with firmer acid & weight. Tried this in 2011 when it showed more oaky notes but now is well integrated. Poruzot from the higher “dessus” east facing slope is a bigger fuller riper more mature wine. 2000 is a success for Girardin with yields less than 1999 in a vintage that favoured elegant pure whites over lighter reds. 2021 less consistent with cool rainy September weather resulting in some unclean grapes requiring sorting out but no problem here. Best vineyard with chalky stony soils in Cailleret (used to be a Monopole of Jean Chartron & son Jean-Michel) vineyard next to Montrachet comes through with intense elegant structured balance with more complexity – white fav of the night!
Varied from neutral Etorki, creamy Chaumes, different BdB with goat milk but not strong, VP an old fav distinctive crust excellent flavour
Second Flight:
TOMME DE SAVOIE – AOP Cow Raw Milk-Savoie CAMEMBERT MEDALLION ISIGNY Cow Raw Milk-Normandie COMTE 24 MONTH CHARLES ARNAUD – AOP Cow Raw Milk-Jura MAROILLES – AOP Cow-Nord
Tomme surprisingly stylish delight, Camembert only one not in perfect shape as slightly over-ripe, Aged Comte is always outstanding with added dimensions paired with these white Burgundies, Maroilles usually comes in three sizes depending on the age with biggest for 4 weeks down to smallest at 2 weeks. This has deep soft creamy excellent flavours. Most members preferred with cheese the whites over the reds.
2000 NUITS ST. GEORGES 1ER CRU LES BOUDOTS N. POTEL 2000 NUITS ST. GEORGES 1ER CRU AUX CRAS NICOLAS POTEL 2007 VOLNAY 1ER CRU LES CAILLERETS DOM. LOUIS BOILLOT
First two both 2000 from Nicolas Potel (son of Gerard Potel of famous Domaine Pousse d’Or in Volnay died in 1997 and Estate was sold off) started in 1997 a new negociant business sold in 2004 to Laboure-Roi. Now developed the Bellene name. Potel picked later than most in 2000 so less diluted and more mature skins for colour using 20-30% new oak. Les Boudots 6.3 ha is on a steep slope at the north end of NSG next to Vosne-Romanee Malconsorts showing full bodied plushness with lifted floral notes. Aux Cras 3 ha is just south of Boudots and next to Aux Murgers usually with a darker look but here a paler less intense wine. 2007 Volnay a top vineyard southern end Les Caillerets is still young and tannic with way darker big deep fruit somewhat atypical for the AC.
Third Flight:
DELICE DE POMMARD Cow-Bourgogne MORBIER FERMIER – AOP Cow Raw Milk-Jura EPOISSES – AOP Cow-Bourgogne OSSAU IRATY FERMIER – AOP Sheep Raw Milk-Pyrenees
DdP dark rind creamy, unique ash middle Morbier, very runny sweet delicious perfection Epoisses with Burgundy, OIF shows a different raw milk sheep styling
Fourth Flight:
CANTAL FERMIER – AOP Cow Raw Milk-Auvergne DELICE DE BOURGOGNE -Cow-Bourgogne TOMME DES CROQUANTS (WALNUTS) -Cow-Bordeaux BLEU DES CAUSSES -AOP Cow Raw Milk-Aveyron
Classic Cantal a great cheese for wine white or red, runny tasty superb DdB, Bordeaux cheese with Burgundy OK, Blue cheese tends to dominate – except with Vintage Port – but lovely here with bigger reds.
Question: Is there something that wineries can do to receive an endorsement for helping to protect the bees?
Answer: Yes there is Bee Friendly endorsement. In addition to biodynamic, organic & sustainable recognition there is also a Beekeeping certification. It requires beehives to be installed on the property and prohibits the use of pesticides that might harm the bees. At the recent 45th #VIWF your scribe discussed with Allegrini principals their excellent protective work in Italian vineyards of Valpolicella, Soave, and Lugana. They have since 2017 a BIODIVERSITY FRIEND CERTIFICATE (protecting animals & insects). In 2019 they acquired an EQUALITAS CERTIFICATION for sustainability support throughout their supplier network. Since 2023 they added a BEEKEEPING CERTIFICATION “testifying to the commitment to safeguarding this insect, so precious for preserving and promoting the biodiversity of the environment”. Other wineries @VanWineFest including innovative Gerard Bertrand is on board being Bee Friendly with his wonderful red 2020 Chateau l’Hospitalet La Clape near Narbonne in the south of France.
Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande is a Second Growth Pauillac Grand Cru Classé in the 1855 Classification. Since 1978 (plus some vintages before) this property has been a deserving Super Second with an amazing record of consistently fine wines first under the indomitable spirit of May-Elaine de Lencquesaing and more recently the conscientious musical direction of Nicolas Glumineau. Lots of memorable experiences with M-EdL & PL many recorded on this Blog linked here from June 18, 2013, June 15, 2020, and February 14, 2022. May’s elegant wines were often balanced with more Merlot & Petit Verdot that have stood well the taste of time. Over the last ten years NG has planted more Cabernet Sauvignon, reducing the Merlot component and adding more Cabernet Franc & less Petit Verdot in the blend. Riper fruit but expecting them to also age. Appreciate his recent reply to my question on vintage styles as follows:
2023: Combines the “mineral depth of 2020, sharp powdery tannic structure of 2019, and the vibrant energy of 2010 & 2005”.
2022: NG says it is “between 2020 & 2015” plus growing some white grapes making 150 liters of 2022 Chardonnay & Savagnin (he likes the Jura) after thinking about trying Chenin Blanc but deciding no chalky soil for elegance. Another plot has Chardonnay, Semillon, and Gros Manseng.
May built and cherished a wonderful Museum of Glass. NIcolas recommends discovering PL vintages accompanied by music: a new interpretation of the PL tannins of 2016 with Radiohead & 2014 Kate Bush. Your scribe likes his suggestion of listening to No Quarter by Led Zeppelin while enjoying the 2010. He prefers his PL 2020 to 2019. Ask Sid Wine Wednesday awarded @PichonComtesse the best social media coverage of the 2023 harvest on October 11, 2023 here.
May has authored a fantastic new book in French (being translated into English) by Tallandier called “Les vendanges d’un destin – De Bordeaux à l’Afrique du Sud”. She kindly included at the back twelve pages under “Souvenirs et Moments Partages” reminiscences requested from your scribe submitted in English but presently translated into French.
On February 13, 2024 Event #119 of the Vancouver Group of 8 at Blue Water Cafe celebrated a PL Vertical update. A few brief comments:
With a superb Dungeness Crab Salad we had the fresh vibrant in a softer style of 2014 (not 2005 as shown on the menu) of 61PN/39C with 8g/l dosage, disgorged in August 2021 still rather undeveloped bottle age.
2008 PICHON LALANDE: 63CS 29M 3CF 5PV Youngest one bright fresh stylish showing mineral PL terroir.
1996 PICHON LALANDE: 75CS 15M 5CF 5PV More dark intensity and riper CS definition with somewhat atypical bigger PL focus with best future potential. More towards the current Nicholas styling.
1995 PICHON LALANDE: 45CS 40M 15CF Younger of a sensational pair (like 1983 & 1982) is smoother and more accessible with higher Merlot in a pure elegant M-EdL statement.
1990 PICHON LALANDE: Much less fruit as no press wine was added so is much lighter lacking depth but showing better with forward elegance than on previous tastings. Enjoy now.
1994 CHATEAU LAFITE ROTHSCHILD: Darkest young look of First Flight. Undeveloped with similar flavours but is more primary herbaceous fruit with harder tannins. Very high quality is recognized but some of us thought it was a less celebrated vintage. Hard one to guess served blind. A much better showing paired with the delicious duck-mushroom pasta course.
1989 PICHON LALANDE: Wsa not served this time but usually has wonderful aromatics on a beautiful plateau of alluring silky tannins. 1989 PL is always way more intense and complex than 1990.
1986 PICHON LALANDE: Very dark & deep. Pure Pauillac bouquet with powerful graphite tobacco cedar notes. Admire the structure with firm tannins just coming into their own perfect balance. Like the future here.
1985 PICHON LALANDE: Paler edge much lighter than 1986. Was on occasion a shade weedy after release but has improved as a complete wine gracefully with bottle aging. Can enjoy it now. Nice matching with the exquisite herbal leg of lamb.
1983 PICHON LALANDE: A special fav of your scribe – and M-EdL. IMHO the best of the northern Medocs (including First Growths) in 1983. Shows that clean pure classic breeding with graphite black fruits, truffles and balanced energy. No rush. Excellent now but may develop even further complexities.
1920 VIN DE PICHON LONGUEVILLE: Deep punted 100+ years old bottle. Sommeliers Calem & NIna did an outstanding job of extracting by Durand the crumbly cork intact. Very pale old wine looks but bright & clear. Enticing first perfumes of exotic roses but surprisingly fresh styling. Wonderful delicacy and length. Guessed blind as 37 Lafite.
Question: What non-wine items made a good impression on you at the 45th Vancouver International Wine Festival?
Answer: So many well done experiences @VanWineFest. Here is a Top 5:
VANCOUVER CONVENTION CENTRE Executive Chef Nandakishore Rangan and talented team shone at many events including Principals Welcome Lunch, 20th Annual Awards Buffet, and Saturday’s La Dolce Vita. Such a variety of quality dishes on the menu highlighted by Burrata bruschetta, heirloom tomato, basil; Mushroom and mascarpone ravioli, black truffle cream, & hand-carved roasted porchetta.
GIARDINO Ciao Piemonte smartly organized alternative course choices for their excellent 5 course Vietti dinner with special kudos to proprietor Umberto for flying in his outstanding VILLA DELIA EVOO so fresh cold pressed in October 2023 and on the tables already. Amazing!
The constant line-ups at Festival Tastings for the popular D’ORO GELATO with freshly made different ones every day. Wonderful tasty flavours from Pistachio, Mango Sorbetto, and theme country Limoncella.
Educational RETHINKING FOOD & WINE PAIRING seminar-lunch by Master Sommelier EVAN GOLDSTEIN author of Perfect Pairings showing how you must understand the wine style but also the food (ingredients, cooking methods, sauces & sides) for best results.
Outstanding food ingredients brought in and prepared for winemaker dinners at BOULEVARD – A NIGHT WITH ROBERT MONDAVI of delicious Five Spice Quail with entertaining comments by Principal Eugene Mlynczyk and Executive General Manager JT Potters; and at THE ROOF AT BLACK & BLUE – A TASTE OF RUFFINO DINNER OF rich Wagyu Japanese A5 striploin with Ambassador Beppe D’Andrea plus attentive knowledgeable input by Wine Director Global Restaurant Group Sarah McCauley.
The educational and enjoyable experiences available over and above the wine at #VIWF@VanWineFest make it a must-attend adventure. Be sure and mark down the dates of February 22-March 2, 2025 for the 46th annual featuring the USA.
