Followers of this Blog know your scribe’s enthusiasm for the Paulee wine tasting experience. Many Burgundy write-ups including Chassagne-Montrachet on August 27, 2018 here, Chablis Grand Cru on September 4, 2017 here, and even some non-traditional Bordeaux ones on September 9, 2019 here and First Growths November 26, 2018 here. However, it was a first for the Vancouver Branch of Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin to present an all red wine Paulee on April 9, 2024 at Blue Water Cafe featuring a theme of Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru (or Grand Cru). It was also organized in the traditional sharing bottle pours mode with the main courses rather than our previously free for all white wine aperitif method. Pros and cons to that concept particularly the difficulty of physically moving around in tight quarters with 2 long tables close together each seating 19 persons. Your scribe & Cellarmaster Blair Curtis made yeoman’s efforts in trying many of the wines shown on the List and later speaking about them to the assembled group.

The aperitif was Champagne magnums of Millesime 2004 Jean Vesselle Brut-Prestige Bouzy Grand Cru disgorged on May 10, 2021 imported by Boutique Wines. Fresh and attractively complex but was quite sweet so checked out the back label which noted 10g/l dosage! That is a lot in these modern times of Brut Nature, Extra Brut, and lower dosage trends that work well with food but this one is on a lovely level for a celebration or cheese/dessert use.

Whites:

2005 CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET VILLAGE
2005 CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET 1ER CRU CLOS SAINT-JEAN

Both from respected DOMAINE MICHEL NIELLON with Village plots (better for red) resulting in a lighter fresher surprisingly lovely style while the deeper darker richer Clos St. Jean is a bit soapy and too mature. Feel the 2005 whites are often overrated, need drinking up.

2006 CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET 1ER CRU LES CHENEVOTTES
2007 CORTON-CHARLEMAGNE GRAND CRU

Second flight much superior with DOMAINE JEAN-MARC MOREY a classy nutty rich pairing with the first fresh halibut of the season beautifully prepared. The DOMAINE BOUCHARD PERE Corton-Charlemagne is balanced and drinking on an excellent complex plateau of best enjoyment.

Reds from Gevrey show 8/9 Grand Cru over 87 hectares, 26 Premier Cru over similar 86 hectares and remaining 300+ hectares (including Brochon) as Village GC. Often more structured tannins in GC than other Burgundy regions so they can be still slowly developing in bottle and less easy to enjoy young. We had a 15 year range of vintages so quite varied with my brief thoughts::

2005 classic treasures,
2006 sorting for rot issues,
2007 bad Summer weather more acidity,
2008 late harvest variable,
2009 big ripe fruit,
2010 balanced smaller crop,
2011 sometimes not ripe enough,
2012 small crop saved by September,
2013 acidity cooler year,
2014 supple charm,
2015 consistently concentrated,
2016 frost April 26/27,
2017 early harvest big crop,
2018 very hot August watch alcohol levels,
2019 less heat spikes, impressive depth, underrated,
2020 third hot year in a row, still young reds.

Benjamin Leroux is a superstar making great wines including the potential shown in his 2020 Les Cazetiers. My fav is his fantastic white 2020 MEURSAULT VIREUILS so be sure to buy some of it. Also liked the future of a red village GC LES SEUVREES in hommage to Robert Groffier.

We enjoyed two Grand Cru CHARMES CHAMBERTIN of 2015 Dominique Gallois at 13.5 abv & 2009 Rene Bouvier but the extraordinary Premier Cru CLOS ST. JACQUES in 2005 by Dominique Laurent and Louis Jadot in 2006 & 2009 also shone brightly. Only 5 producers of the 6.7 hectares of CSJ with properties having small stones running in strips from top (white marl) to bottom (brown clay). On the map you can see the lesser 1er crus around the village: LES CORBEAUX (“crows”) lowest down and LES CHAMPONNETS above it. Surprises of the night was improved Rossignol-Trapet 2007 LES COMBETTES isolated on the South end next to Grand Cru Latricieres and Clos de la Roche in Morey-Saint Denis but in a valley dip changing with climate change. A most improved region in all of Burgundy for this decade is the north hilly group of Premier Crus led by LAVAUX (or LAVAUT) SAINT JACQUES & LES CAZETIERS respectively on the West and East sides of CSJ being helped by global warming. Even higher up worth monitoring are ESTOURNELLES SAINT-JACQUES, LE POISSENET, COMBE AUX MOINES, and CHAMPEAUX. Another surprise of the night was the much improved Dupont-Tisserandot south facing late picked 2009 LSJ.

The top two picks by the Paulee speakers:

Blair: First: 2014 Les Corbeaux Denis Bachelet
Second: 2009 CC Rene Bouvier

Sid: First: 2005 CSJ Dominique Laurent: Not one of the 5 owner producers but some of that special steep SE facing fruit from friend Sylvie Esmonin turned into a very special outstanding CSJ.
Second: 2009 CC Rene Bouvier: low yields from 50-year-old vines using organic principles with more whole bunches & 1/3 new oak.

Fun event. Suggest you try a Burgundian Paulee of just red wines.

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Question: What is the French word used for a corked wine?

Answer: The French use “goût de bouchon” to describe the cork taint (a musty TCA smell and taste) that you sometimes find in a wine that has used a faulty natural cork closure.

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Your scribe always enjoys a retrospective horizontal wine tasting that provides a specific vintage overview update plus a current assessment of development. Such was the case on April 14, 2024 at the Vancouver Club for a Black Tie dinner held by La Commanderie de Bordeaux featuring some top Left Bank 2004 Bordeaux. The vintage 2004 is now 20 years old but has been less heralded for Bordeaux as sandwiched between two more publicized years of the ripe commanding 2003 and the powerful yet classic 2005. Nonetheless the large 2004 crop from cooler weather conditions has merit but required careful grape selection during rainy conditions at harvest to achieve the best results. The reception was Bordeaux-style with a chance to try 5 excellent diverse whites all from Pessac-Leognan:

2014 LA GARDE: An old fav property from my early Eschenauer days continues to be a good value here a blend of 74% Sauvignon Blanc, 15% Sauvignon Gris, and 11% Semillon. Diam 5 closure. Lovely herbal spicy freshness for current use.

2015 DE FIEUZAL: Creamy full bodied style as a result of the riper tropical fruit of 2015 vintage and the high 45% Semillon with the 55% Sauvignon Blanc mix. Impressive rich showing.

2014 SMITH HAUT LAFITTE: Quality limited production of 2500 cases makes a dominant Sauvignon statement of 90% Blanc & 5% Gris plus only 5 Semillon matured in 50% new oak. Delivers balanced concentrated pure flavours presently on a wonderful plateau for admiration and enjoyment.

2013 SMITH HAUT LAFITTE: A year older but the cooler year and blocked malo has this wine still so amazingly young with fresh vibrancy. Wonderful exciting pure complexity is great now with more to develop. Congrats.

2013 DOMAINE DE CHEVALIER: Famille Bernard masterpiece from 70% Sauvignon & 30% Semillon at 13 abv is superb already but experience gives me confidence in the bright future as well. The texture and minerality from stirred lees is remarkable. Stunning.

All the reds were young and well made from a sometimes difficult vintage for obtaining the cleanest ripest fruit. Most are becoming approachable now but no rush either. Still developing and softening those tannins.

The First Flight was a comparison of the three Leoville properties in St. Julien from 2004 with a blind mystery glass that turned out to be the 2005 Poyferre:

2004 LEOVILLE LAS CASES
2004 LEOVILLE POYFERRE
2004 LEOVILLE BARTON
2005 LEOVILLE POYFERRE

All impressively deep dark and young looking with the 2005 Poyferre the darkest. LLC is tighter and more closed on the nose but has the best concentrated pure ripe cassis fruit of 76/13/11 blend CS/M/CF in 90% new oak. Requires patience. Poyferre has a lovely open flowery floral bouquet on 2004 and bigger more depth peppery intensity and rounder tannins on the 2005 (68CS/26M/6PV) for cellaring. The Barton has that recognizable medicinal iodine note with dense earthy sous bois with structure. Good flight.

Second flight impressively young but nicely paired with an exquisite lamb main course well presented:

2004 PAPE CLEMENT
2004 PALMER
2004 LATOUR
2004 MONTROSE

PC has higher 46% late harvested Merlot with 54 CS in a more approachable modern Pessac-Leognan style to enjoy now. Palmer is seductive, rather opulent and charming also with high Merlot 47%, 46% CS & 7% PV in 60% new oak. A Margaux beauty.

Latour makes more of a Cab Sauv statement using 89% in 100% new oak with a tremendous concentrated wine for confident cellaring but already is truly majestic with some graphite elegance. Very Pauillac. Compare St Estephe terroir of Montrose but not as hard and reluctant young as other vintages. The smooth harmony is coming together softer earlier on.

2004 top Left Bank Bordeaux surprises at 20 years and they are developing better than expected. Try some.

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Question: I enjoyed so much older vintages from the sixties of the remarkable Saint Emilion property Château L’Arrosee that I purchased in Brussels Belgium (and the UK) but can’t find any of their current releases from the last 10 years. Can you help me?

Answer: Yes, that is an old fav St. Emilion of your scribe as well. An outstanding 1961 to seek out and just tasted this month the surprisingly lovely 1962. You can’t find it because it no longer exists under that name of Château L’Arrosee but is part of the Domaine Clarence Dillon new wine Château Quintus. They acquired in 2011 the 18 hectares of Château Tertre Daugay, in 2013 the 9+ hectares of Château L’Arrosee, and in 2021 the 19 hectares of Château Grand-Pontet which now are all combined into the 45+ hectares of Château Quintus. I suggest you try a current release of this excellent new St. Emilion.

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On April 2, 2024 the Vancouver Group of Eight held their Event #120 at Blue Water Cafe focusing on older wines from St. Emilion. The aperitif was a fresh vibrant most elegant great balanced vintage 2002 BILLECART-SALMON CUVEE NICOLAS FRANCOIS BRUT blending 60% Pinot Noir & 40% Chardonnay partially 20% in oak with 10 years on the lees and only 4g/l dosage disgorged 04/2019. Still so young and wonderful paired with an artistic scallop & lobster gnocchi starter.

We enjoyed 10 different St. Emilion properties in two flights matched with two well-chosen game birds: a delicious grilled spatchcocked local quail and an exquisite pan-roasted Guinea fowl. The wines widely ranged in age from the youngest 2009 to the oldest 1962 – over 60 years old! Three wines were from 1990 and two from 2000. All had quite different grape blends that added to the individual stylings of each property. Overall the wines were quite diverse but generally showed that plummy full easier approachability of this esteemed Right Bank region. Educational overview.

2009 CANON-LA-GAFFELIERE: Underrated quality property on clay soil with limestone & sand by Comtes von Neipperg from this hotter vintage. This has the darkest deepest look of the First Flight. Shows intense ripe plummy fruit with softer but delicious true impressive flavours. Very St. Emilion.

2005 MAGDELAINE: Jean-Pierre Moueix that is now a part of Belair-Monange. 95% Merlot & 5% Cab Franc from a classic year but even though quite full bodied, is surprisingly open round and forwardly drinking. Nevertheless it is well balanced and should continue to age well.

1996 VIEUX RIVALLON: Disappointing late substitute for early fruit bomb now developing better 2003 Pavie that was scheduled. This one was served blind showing easy drinking and simple mature fruit. However, it was light, and a bit short as a lower rated Grand Cru being outclassed in this stellar Grand Cru Classe line-up.

2000 BELAIR: Dubois-Challon by traditionalist winemaker Pascal Delbeck is more severe in the grip and drier tannins. A bit dumb and reluctant at present. Rather hard. Questionable. Where is the 2000 fruit?

2000 BEAU-SEJOUR BECOT: Second darkest but best prime open lovely aromatics of First Flight. Robust blend of 70/24/6 Merlot, Cab Franc, Cab Sauv. Still young with some tannins to resolve but well done.

1998 AUSONE: Vauthier family leads off as very dark and intense for what turned out to be a much better Second Flight. Small production (2000 cases?) of 50/50 Merlot/Cab Franc with prominent acidity in this excellent Right Bank vintage. Have experienced many mixed results from this property but much better tight cherry fruit showing than expected here. Should continue to develop well. No rush.

1990 FIGEAC: Thierry Manoncourt used 1/3 each M/CF/CS with 100% new oak harvested September 17 to October 6. Lighter look but typical notes of mint, tea, and herbs. Like the freshness but seems less ripe and firmer than expected. Prefer the older vintages like 1964 (or 1949) or newer exciting more current releases from Frederic Faye. May show better with another bottle or later.

1990 ANGELUS: Bouard De Laforest complex stunner of 60% Merlot & 40% Cab Franc. Darkest wine of this flight. Amazing explosive big impressive powerful fruit. Love the concentrated sweet long flavours with ripe tannins. Clearly Wine of the Night!

1990 BEAUSEJOUR DUFFAU-LAGARROSSE: 100 point Parker (in 2009) written up previously on this Blog here. Shows dried fruits, forest floor, and earthy mushrooms tonight with more of that admirable smooth opulence “port-like” in this bottle. Not near a 100 score for me but an excellent unique St. Emilion in 1990.

1962 L’ARROSEE: Old fav from Pierre Rodhain bought at BCLDB in March 1973 for $7.85. Exclusive from the Barriere family (with L’Eglise Clinet Pomerol) sold mainly to the Belgium market. Western Cotes property here 50% Merlot/30 Cab Sauv/20 Cab Franc almost more Graves/Margaux in style. Purchased in 2013 by Domaine Clarence Dillon (Prince Robert of Luxembourg was most impressed with L’Arrosee 1961) who earlier in May 2011 had bought Tertre Daugay and merged both properties into now Quintus. The 1962 was a special old treat with still some red colour left plus open complex tertiary bouquet and superb delicacy. A treasure indeed.

We finished up with a lovely galette dessert matched with a lighter forwardly 1997 CHATEAU GUIRAUD SAUTERNES.

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