Wines from the Rhone have really gained a popular following by consumers over the last nearly 50 years. Lots of credit has to go to John Livingstone-Learmonth and Melvyn C. H. Master for spreading the quality word early with their first edition in 1978 of their book on The Wines of the Rhone. Also to Robert M. Parker who released his first Wine Advocate issue in the same year and followed with his first Rhone Valley (and Provence) publication in the late eighties. Parker especially championed the Rhone wines as great but underrated which contributed to their continually higher prices. Today there are still many excellent Rhone wines at very good value but now there are also some very expensive Rhone wines including Hermitage. This appellation uniquely allows two white grapes of mainly Marsanne with Roussanne but only one red Syrah. Some very old vineyards in Les Rocoules and Peleat for the whites and steep hillside lieu-dits on special granite soils in Les Bessards and others for the red contribute to a wonderful complexity in Hermitage wines. Event # 130 by the Vancouver Group of Eight on April 29, 2025 featured 10 wines from Hermitage over dinner at Bacchus Restaurant in the Wedgewood Hotel & Spa, Relais & Châteaux brilliantly managed by personable co-owner Elpie Marinakis, talented Executive Chef Stefan Hartmann, and knowledgeable Sommelier Edward Sweetman. Your scribe’s comments:
2003 HERMITAGE BLANC DOMAINE JEAN-LOUIS CHAVE Impressive viscous yellow look with thick slow tears on swirling. Lots of open spicy ginger, apricots, and honey-nuttiness. The typical aged big rich textures are oily, waxy and long. Label says 15 abv but this ripe year finishes rather hot for me and I believe it is near 16.5. Fond memories of purchases from Kermit Lynch of the amazing 1978 (bought in 1981 $14.75), elegant 1979 (in 1982 $12.50) and powerful 1983 (in 1986 $146/case) which all aged brilliantly with more balanced acidity. Prices are now high with the 2022 vintage just offered last week by SommSelect at $365US/bottle (and the same price for the red). A unique treasure.
2001 HERMITAGE BLANC DOMAINE JEAN-LOUIS CHAVE Lighter and only 13 abv but full waxy and elegant with better acidity. Ian bought this early on locally at Marquis Cellars at $214.90 Canadian. Reminded me of a younger floral orange citrus version of my last bottle of the lovely 1979 opened last year. Fine match with the exquisite lobster course.
2009 HERMITAGE LES BESSARDS DELAS Really appreciate how Delas has improved their Hermitage over the last few decades. This top old vines limited offering from Bessards is young, deep fruit, concentrated, powerful and rich. Shows that intense black olives signature with 100% new French oak in almost a smoky BBQ styling. Voluptuous at 14 abv with a bright future ahead of it. Patience.
2006 ERMITAGE “EX VOTO” E. GUIGAL This reserve has 40% Les Bessards and spent over 3 years in new oak. Interesting to compare how this first flight has four vintages all three years apart. Fresh at 13 abv is lighter than Delas but stylish with good fruit depth plus cocoa-coffee pepper Syrah definition. No rush. Well done. Liked this with the innovative rabbit terrine with foie gras mousse and pickled veg.
2003 HERMITAGE LA CHAPELLE PAUL JABOULET AINE The riper hot 2003 year is coming in at 14.5 abv but grapes are well selected by Jaboulet with limited production of 50,000 bottles – less than usual. Forwardly a bit atypical but big full bodied earthy sweet plums and rounded softer tannins. Enjoy.
2000 HERMITAGE E. GUIGAL Less intense fruit here at 13 abv in a leaner simpler display compared to “Ex Voto”. Easy enjoyable current drinking but a bit too supple and stewed – not quite complex enough.
1990 HERMITAGE LA CHAPELLE PAUL JABOULET AINE Cellared this smart purchase locally at BCLDB in 1993 at $65.65/bottle enjoying many bottles – last one sensational on February 2, 2025 with home-made Lasagna. Slightly different label but both have 13.9 abv. Here again this time very dark deep colour with a fantastic bouquet of sweet rich blackberries. Memories of first visiting with the legendary Gerard Jaboulet in his small office in Tain-l’Hermitage when he opened blind for me 1961 and just by pulling the cork the whole room smelled like you were up close in a blackberry jam-making facility. Wow what a bouquet! Classic top textbook balanced Rhone Hermitage. Similarly here with this 1990. So complex and classy – a legend already. Nick Wright found it “tighter” with “a little of the left bank Bordeaux cassis”. Wine of the Night for me, Ian Mottershead and Larry Burr. Popular choice.
1990 HERMITAGE MONIER DE LA SIZERANNE M. CHAPOUTIER Dark with a paler rim. Earthy spices and pepper but a tad rustic. Admire the deli meats, licorice, and tobacco notes with a smooth texture. Very good indeed but outclassed in this tough company. Would show better on its own.
1989 HERMITAGE DOMAINE JEAN-LOUIS CHAVE Looks young but a lot less colour than 90 Jaboulet. True pure spicy pepper Syrah nose. Really outstanding balance with elegance and delicacy. Subtle and complex. Continues to develop in the glass. I am impressed but I keep thinking it is not as great as their 1978 or arguably 1990 but picked as Wine of the Night by Fred Withers and Jim Robertson. Popular choice too.
1988 HERMITAGE LA CHAPELLE PAUL JABOULET AINE Cloudy but darker than Chave but much lighter edge. Forwardly on the nose but has less balance and more acidity with raw tannins. Better showing than when Gerard used to frankly state on poor vintages or those over the hill – “Make a sauce!” 1988 is in tough competition here.
1991 GRANGE SHIRAZ SOUTH AUSTRALIA PENFOLDS This was served by Ian double blind as a mystery wine. Black darker than 90 Jaboulet. Looks young but developed on the bouquet as very ripe (though label says 13.5) big fruit with different oak (American) that I guessed definitely Aussie Shiraz and probably Grange (with 5% Cab Sauv). Doug Loughran did an excellent analysis as well suggesting Grange. It was holding well and very impressive indeed. Some of us thought it was slightly one dimensional but what a fine dimension that is. Held up well but most of us preferred 90 Jaboulet & 89 Chave over it. No Australians attended. Paired better with the Alberta lamb course prepared two ways.
1988 QUINTA DE VARGELLAS VINTAGE PORT TAYLOR’S Bad vintage conditions for classic vintage Port in 1988 but this single Quinta offering has lots of sweet fruit over the spirit and though soft is very attractive. Underrated treat. Stunning second dessert too of “Sacher” chocolate cake and apricot, almonds, ice cream.
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