Surprised and delighted to be invited by experienced Brendan Jones of The Cachet Collection wine agency to a tasting/lunch on November 8 at the popular Nightingale restaurant in Vancouver featuring Simon Family Estate wines. Our small group table adjoining the kitchen included Brendan, Chris Rielly Wine Director Hawksworth Restaurant Group, proprietor Sam Simon, son Michael Simon, and Josh Kretchmer Director of National & Private Client Sales. Pleased to see such a high powered delegation attending in our Canadian market for top quality Napa Valley cult wines. Thank you.
A new Estate with first releases in 2019 but a member of The Napa Valley Reserve since 2003 and influenced and encouraged by icon Bill Harlan to start their own label. Interesting story of how Sam Simon attracted winemaker Maayan Koschitzky to form a dynamic wine team reported here in the Robb Report on March 7, 2022 and in Forbes on November 30, 2022 here. They now have a tasting room by appointment (tel: 707-222-6088) in downtown Napa at 1040 Main Street. Impressed by how wine lover collector Sam Simon brought two white wines as an aperitif not from the winery but from his own private cellar:
2023 ROSSJ-BASS GAJA Langhe white showing the Chardonnay grape in a fragrant floral Piedmont style.
2020 Y – YGREC Bordeaux Blanc is a vibrant dry Sauternes from Chateau dYquem. Sam stated it was an inspiration for his own Sauvignon Blanc. Sam strongly feels you need both “passion & patience” to produce great wine! Our tasting was well orchestrated and matched with some superb dishes from the diverse excellent Nightingale menu (highly recommended). Some brief impressions on the wines:
2021 GOLDEN ORE SAUVIGNON BLANC Oakville Napa Valley: Harvested early August 20 at 3.13pH & 7.7 TA aged 18 months in French oak (30% new) at 14 abv producing only 200 cases. It has balance, oak, and weight from lees aging but 100% SB from quite a different terroir than the Ygrec inspiration – which also uses 20-25% Semillon in their blend.
2023 TIGRESS ROSE OF GRENACHE Rutherford Napa Valley: Fresh bright and lively all stainless in the Provenance style with 6 1/2 hours skin contact + 4 months lees was harvested September 22 at 3.3pH & 5.9TA at 12.5 abv producing only 200 cases. The refreshing fav and inspiration of Sams wife Nada Simon.
2021 PETER DOUBLE BLESSINGS CABERNET FRANC & CABERNET SAUVIGNON: First of two very different double blessings of only 90 cases each to honor the distinct personalities of twin sons Peter & Michael. The wines highlight these characteristics according to Michael with Peter a day person, light heated, and open with a sense of humour while his is a night owl, less open, more serious. This has warmer Oakville fruit with 57% Cab Franc (hoping to reach 75% next year) and 43% Cab Sauv from the Tench Family Vineyard with a lighter rim and elegant floral herbal signature at 14.8 abv in a popular easier style.
2021 MICHAEL DOUBLE BLESSINGS CABERNET SAUVIGNON: Mainly Yountville Sleeping Lady vineyard plus Coombsville Rocca Collinetta vineyard with 22 months in French oak (80% new) same as Peters. Similar stats to Peter but it is darker, more energy structured fruit with riper tannins at 14.9 abv. Needs some bottle aging.
2021 SIMON NAPA VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON: Second vintage of multi vineyard sites with a little less new oak (70%) from a variety of Coopers but with 2% Cab Franc at 14.8 abv producing 700 cases. Lots of ripe fruit but a lovely balanced elegance to it. Less vineyard defined but captures the Napa style of Cabernet Sauvignon very well in this textbook vintage of smaller berries and lower yields. Will be more Single Vineyard programs released or 2022.
2021 SIMON FAMILY ESTATE RESERVE CABERNET SAUVIGNON: Smart use of three renowned vineyards of Vine Hill Ranch, Tench, and Collinetta does impress with only 250 cases at 14.9 abv. Lauded with some very high scores and even a perfect 100 from Decanter a stellar wine. Like the powerful concentrated intensity of the ripe select fruit which doesnt seem hot so balanced by the elegance. Captured some wonderful flavours and textures with refinement in this vintage. Obviously it will age a long time from this super vintage.
They are looking for more top quality vineyard sites to supply best grapes and considering a future Sparkling wine in the portfolio. Your scribe stated that if Robert Mondavi was here he would have expected some of the best Cab Franc to go into the Reserve for more complexity. Josh agreed and commented that they will be adding some Cab Franc into the Reserve wine in 2023. I also said the bottle weights were way too heavy for the growing number of sustainable environment supporters. They got excited about that question and agreed with me so are taking steps to correct the issue. Bottles will continue to weigh less (10% in 2022) and are going away completely from styrofoam and foils by instead using all disposable green felt wrap. Astute and so aware. Admire their approach to everything that goes into producing a fine wine.
Liked how they modestly stated they still are learning from the previous vintages experienced: the surprising heat and fires of 2017, the smoke taint problems of 2020, the key of watering the vines in the best places at the right time and canopy management in 2021, and dealing with the shutting down of the vines from extremely high temperatures of 100-100+F in 2023.
The best is yet to come!
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La Commanderie de Bordeaux Vancouver held a dinner on October 26th at Five Sails Restaurant comparing top Left Bank wines from the 1995 & 1996 vintage. Chef Alex Kim had just won the Great Kitchen Party as BC rep for the upcoming Canadian Culinary Championship in Ottawa January 31 & February 1, 2025 with his three ingredient seafood terrine that included a superb scallop mousseline. Accordingly, there was an extra buzz in the dining room and excited anticipation to try his seared Hokkaido Scallop dish with two mature white Bordeaux plus the Duck & Venison courses to follow.
Initially 1995 was touted as a Merlot year (and especially favouring the Right Bank) while 1996 was a top Cabernet Sauvignon (CS) year (excellent in the upper Left Bank).
Now approaching 30 years of age these two vintages can’t be summarized quite that simply and vary considerably by Chateau. Remember that 1995 came after four disappointing years (1991-1994) with early September rains so tended to be overrated early on – sort of like 1975 (after lesser 1972-74). 1995 Merlots and Right Bank can be very good though watch out for some diluted earlier picked examples and choose those with more Cabernet Franc. Many of the Left Bank CS were harvested after the September rains resulting in riper but austere quite tannic wines that require patience.
On the other hand, the 1996 vintage can be outstanding particularly in the northern Left Bank where way less Fall rain occurred and sometimes are compared with the slow developing 1986s.
Both have good structure and are now showing encouraging development for wonderful enjoyment on the plateau of long lives in bottle.
The aperitif of DELAMOTTE BRUT CHAMPAGNE was solidly brisk and enhanced by two lovely canapes of Kisu oysters delightful with yuzu and the best arancini possible of sweet tasty Dungeness crab. The Scallops exceeded the anticipation by being so delicious with the two Pessac-Leognan whites. Two different styles of the richer, more body but simpler 2015 CARBONNIEUX (a late substitution for the 2014 La Louviere) and the leaner yet more acid balanced complex textured 2014 SMITH HAUT LAFITTE both paired well with the seafood.
A few impressions on the two flights of red Bordeaux comparing 1995 to 1996:
1995 CHÂTEAU BARON DE PICHON-LONGUEVILLE PAUILLAC There was bottle variation but best made a lush softer delicious statement for easy current drinking with 35% Merlot much more than their recent vintages. Perfect match with the flavourful duck dish.
1995 CHATEAU PONTET-CANET PAUILLAC Darker younger look. Better structure and power complexity. This successful 1995 is pure lovely silk now but no rush. Clearly best of first flight of 1995 but perhaps presently not as multi dimensional as elegant Lynch Bages & exciting Leoville Las Cases. Underrated.
1995 CHÂTEAU GRUAUD LAROSE SAINT-JULIEN During the transition period when purchased in 1997 by Jacques Merlaut (Chasse Spleen). One bottle was badly corked resulting in a smaller pour. Much lighter fruit and simpler. Enjoyable.
1996 CHÂTEAU RAUZAN-SEGLA MARGAUX More Margaux styling. Lighter rim showing age. Less body but the fragrant flowers are most attractive. A surprise glass of 1995 CHÂTEAU PALMER from a guest showed way younger with also lots of Merlot in the blend but with that signature floral complex bouquet.
1996 CHÂTEAU GRAND-PUY-LACOSTE PAUILLAC Darkest deepest colour. Textbook classic cedar Pauillac nose is very impressive! Most CS in the blend is noticeable and with excellent structure. Will age well. Wine of the night for your scribe.
1996 CHÂTEAU LEOVILLE POYFERRE SAINT-JULIEN Also very dark. Less bouquet but a big mouthful of amazing supple round flavours with depth and a contribution from Petit Verdot. More forwardly drinking. Well done for sure. A lot of group support for this wine too.
Venison is a chef fav as low in fat makes it a challenge to prepare a point but not overcook. Usually not a fav of your scribe but this one was sensationally done. I was so inspired I did get up at the event and tell the chef just that. Kudos to his whole culinary team for a great meal. Also a deep bow of respect to Global Wine Director Sarah McCauley who carefully orchestrated the outstanding wine service all at perfect temperatures. Very well done indeed. Much appreciated.
2020 CHÂTEAU COUTET BARSAC For a change served a current Sauternes vintage to assist members not only in wine education but purchasing availability. Lots of sweeter youthful passion fruit, pineapple, apricots, mango, and tangerine peel to already enjoy so fresh without changing with bottle age.
