Archive for July, 2023

The exciting Vancouver culinary scene includes The Global Restaurant Group under founder and dynamic CEO Emad Yacoub. He has delighted patrons over the years with his many often Italian focused dining spots at all levels from casual Trattoria to more upscale Black + Blue Steakhouse – recently expanded to the old Toronto Stock Exchange with a detailed review here in Toronto Life. Also Global has now taken over the iconic Five Sails restaurant in Vancouver at Canada Place Pier with that panoramic view.

On July 20, 2023 they orchestrated in an almost Tuscan garden setting at Italian Kitchen the wines of Tenuta Luce matched with a brilliantly conceived and delivered menu by Global Executive Chef Matteo Fontana (University of Padova background) and his brigade. Appropriate items to pair with the wines ranged from arancini, vitello tonnato, agnolotti (with a unique cafe au lait sauce), porcini, polenta, Italian cheeses, mostarda, and focaccia. The piece de resistance was an authentic Bistecca Alla Fiorentina so authentically prepared that it made you believe you were in Tuscany. Brought back for your scribe such fond memories of dining with Antinori during the early eighties in the woods outside Florence enjoying BIstecca Alla Fiorentina using specially imported choice beef from Yugoslavia. Well done indeed!

Tenuta Luce knowledgeably represented by Alessandro Lunardi Director for North America (including Ornellaia & Masseto) supplied some excellent wines that highlighted the delicious cuisine showing the differences in the four vintages from 2014-2017. The Vittorio Frescobaldi & Robert Mondavi families envisioned this joint venture started back in 1995 and the wines continue at a high level after nearly 30 years.

ATTEMS PINOT GRIGIO FRUILI DOC typical of the region at fresh 12.5 abv works well as an aperitif or with seafood at fair value.

LUCENTE Toscana IGT 2017 from younger vines was fresh and vibrant in Magnum showing the structure of Sangiovese blended with softer Merlot.

LUCE Toscana IGT 2015 & 2016 were richer fuller showing more depth of fruit. The 2016 had higher grape sugars than 2015 in both Sangiovese & Merlot at harvest but higher acidity with lower pH plus lower 14.8 abv (vs 15). Both drinking well presently but 2015 softer with 2016 more structure with remaining tannins.

BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO DOCG were as required 100% Sangiovese from less celebrated vintages but showing surprising purity and forwardly drinking enjoyment matching perfectly the roasted beef course. The 2014 is a big powerful underrated year at 15.5 abv and the 2017 will improve by further aging with lower abv at 14.5 and much higher balancing acidity for those classy tannins from the Sangiovese grapes and 24 months in Slavonian oak barrels. Like the not aggressive expressions of fine herbs with tobacco complexity finishing on an up-note of aceto balsamico.

A wonderful true Tuscan experience right here in Vancouver!

Question: What is your perception of low/no alcohol wine, and what do you think the future of this segment will look like?

Answer: This is a popular topic and has been referred to here back on July 22, 2015 & more recently here on January 12, 2022. I believe the no/low alcohol wines trend is here to stay. It suits our support for a new “better for you lifestyle”. New Zealand and Australia have been leaders in this area but other countries are quickly following suit now. The New Zealand GIESEN winery has done a great job of establishing the viability of the idea and establishing their Brand! Previously most low alcohol products tasted like diluted simple flat grape juice more than wine. However, their Giesen Non Alcoholic (.5% abv) Sauvignon Blanc shows pure grape variety aromas of grassy herbal notes followed by crisp fresh fruits of a quality wine – with fewer calories and much less alcohol. It is now the #1 selling premium alcohol-removed wine in the USA! The Spinning Cone Technology they have developed is working well. They also now produce Pinot Gris, Dry Rose, Merlot, and Riesling. In Australia Wolf Blass has a much lauded plummy spicy 2021 Zero Shiraz and tropical citrus Lindemans Alcohol Free Semillon/Chardonnay blend from Hunter Valley. IMHO this new category finally is showing some credibility and rapidly expanding which will soon be widely available everywhere at stores (not just wine shops) and on restaurant wine lists. Check them out.

On July 20, 2023 World Wine Synergy hosted an excellent “All Greek Lunch & Learn Seminar” at an exciting MIchelin recommended restaurant Nammos Estiatorio. Insightful educational background and commentary was provided by Dr. John Volpe on 13 Greek libations with marvellous Greek food matchings. Nammos is in the capable hands of Owner-Operator Petro Kerasiotis, GM Troy Resch with 3 talented Greek Chefs in the kitchen. World Wine Synergy under the leadership of President Grace Li, Richard Loo, Kristie Or, and Jonathan Chan are doing a wonderful job of sharing in depth knowledge and extensive classy tastings for the wines they represent. This was their latest one following on from the successful Italian experience of Casale del Giglio at La Quercia. With a family winemaking tradition dating back to 1879, Yiannis Boutaris founded the modern Kir-Yianni Winery in 1997 with Estate vineyards at higher elevations in Naoussa & Amyndeon in northern Greece to produce quality terroir driven wines. Presently Ki-Yianni is in their next phase under 5th generation Stelios Boutaris aiming to expand their International focus from 30 countries to 50. The wide selection of available wines mainly from indigenous grape varieties (like Assyrtiko & Xinomavro) are continually improving and represent good value in today’s higher priced wine marketplace. Check some of them out.

Your scribe was particularly curious to try 3 versions of Assyrtiko that originated in the popular PDO Santorini but has expanded to many other regions in Greece. The Santorini one grown on unique volcanic soil with very early harvest at low yields can deliver an amazing depth of concentrated texture while maintaining a dry fresh mineral character. Other regions like here further north at higher elevations can also make terrific Assyrtiko expressing more primary fruit elements with wonderful racy acidity crispness.

The 3 Assyrtiko tasted were interesting – very different from one another.

1. 2022 THE NORTH from vineyards on poor sandy soils at 700 metres in northwestern Macedonia producing low yields at 13.5 abv showed open aromatics of peachy floral notes with wonderful refreshing neutral flavours – perfect when well chilled with food courses especially seafood. Like the expressive most true variety character that this shows. Value.
   
2. 2022 BLE TRACTER (named after their original historic blue tractor) with 60% Assyrtiko, 30% Viognier & 10% Chardonnay. Results in more body and complexity of flavours but IMHO loses some of the identifiable Assyrtiko key identity I really admire.
   
3. 2019 TARSANAS is a higher quality single vineyard 100% Assyrtiko planted in 2003 on the higher mountainous Samaropetra cold-climate region. Barrel fermented and aged with now 3 more years in bottle. This has a deeper colour with prominent new French oak aromas with much more depth of intense fruit. Impressive with rich full 14 abv with better stats compared to The North (3.14 pH vs 3.24; 6.6 total acidity vs 5.5; and 1.5 residual sugar vs 1.9) yet perhaps almost too rich for Assyrtiko styling. May develop further and show even more of the inherent quality there with another year or two of bottle age. Like how you have 3 choices all excellent and yet so different! Similarly with the reds and that enticing acidity balance of Xinomavro grapes from a single vineyard in 2018 DIAPOROS (blended with 12% spicy Syrah) and modern 2019 THE FALLEN OAK from richest soils and 80% French oak (Estate grown half Xinomavro plus 30% Merlot & 20% Syrah). YAMAS!!
   

Question: I like drinking Gruner Veltliner from Austria and wondered if they have a wine classification system?

Answer: Austria is moving towards a more specific designation of origin for all their wines. They presently use three tiers of Municipality (some 458 of them), Grosslage (larger vineyard areas) and the increasingly important single vineyards named Rieden. You will see more use of Riedenwein (or Lagenwein) which will reflect the individual character of specific single vineyard sites producing the highest top quality wines. Austrianvineyards.com has a most useful interactive map explaining in detail all of this. Suggest you look for RIED on the wine label of your Gruner Veltliner and seek out some of these very best wines.

On July 15, 2023 from 12 pm to 4 pm the BC Crab Fishermen’s Association and Mitch’s Catch brought to False Creek Fishermen’s Wharf in Vancouver the 1st (of what we hope will be many future annual celebrations) Crab Fest events. This is yet another innovative seafood project backed by the influential Chefs’ Table Society of BC who just finished another Spot Prawn Festival written up on June 12 here. This Crab Boil of fresh BC Dungeness crabs featured fishers & talented chefs Robert Clark, Dez Lo, Vish Mayekar, Julian Bond, Quang Dang and others including volunteers from Vancouver Community College. There was such a good vibe there on a beautiful hot sunny afternoon including fresh local corn on the cob, live music, games (do you know Jenga or Cornhole?), Granville Island Brewing beer and sours, Fabrique St-George wines, and Sapsucker sparkling water (naturally sweetened with organic maple tree sap). The mission statement is “to raise awareness and make local Dungeness crab more accessible, so you can savour another remarkable taste coming from the coastal waters of British Columbia.” Presently there are 220 licensed vessels and over 800 harvesters placing an emphasis on sustainability with a limited crab season harvesting only males with a minimum size of 165 mm. Also appreciate the support and vocational learning opportunity being given to younger fishers through BC Young Fishermen’s Network. Your scribe strongly advocates that Dungeness crab is an outstanding product being the world’s sweetest and most succulently delicious of all varieties. Some of us advocate that it shows even more complexity served chilled rather than hot so for the expected bigger and even better Crab Fest next year please consider offering this second option. Would require more work with an earlier pre-cooking and refrigerating but certainly worth considering. All in all a most successful limited ticket attendance first run project and congrats are in order! Well done.

What innovative seafood initiatives do you see happening in your local region?