We are fortunate in #Vancouver to have a world-class Thai restaurant Maenam featuring outstanding @chefangusan producing fantastic dishes. Our Tastevin group held a special dinner there on November 15, 2022 of some of his many best courses that all were singing with delicious assertive flavours. From experience your scribe usually prefers matching slightly off-dry white wines with good acidity and a touch of residual sweetness to tame the spices of Thai food. Thinking like Sparkling with higher dosage, Chenin Blanc, and especially Riesling at the Spatlese level. Here the matching was dry white & red Burgundy all of which actually stepped up surprisingly well to this tougher challenge.

The aperitif was a spectacular 1996 vintage in large magnum format from quality producer Pol Roger that was brilliantly fresh and complex with the bubbles complementing the flavourful canapes served. Clever use of pineapple.

Three aged Les Clos Grand Cru Chablis followed with Fevre clearly outclassing the other two with the depth and signature textbook statement of this best vineyard. Brocard showed lighter refreshing elements with appropriate spice notes from the less ripe nature of 2008 while the two 2009s were richer and softer but Servin showed some pre-mox (their 2018 Montee de Tonnerre also is forwardly from another hot vintage but has better balance with their 2020 releases). Even though the 2009 Fevre Les Clos deep salinity was really excellent and wonderful paired with the truffled Crab dish, probably a younger fruit-forward more acidic Chablis or off-dry white would have calmed the unique 8 Spice Red Perch to better advantage. Fun education with this food matching!

The lobster course with 2011 puligny was fine. The Champs-Canet has lovely “sweetness” of fruit but Lucien LeMoine is rather reductive and drier from that outlying Blagny region vineyard La Garenne even though cleverly decanted an hour or so before by the talented Sommelier Kristi Linneboe.

Big reds that are quite tannic usually can be difficult with Thai food but Pinot Noir usually has less hard tannins and perfect natural acidity for balance. However, Philippe Leclerc uses older full extraction techniques and this perfect 2005 vintage from Cazetiers stills needs more aging. The lighter charming 2005 Volnay red Burgundy pairs better presently with the duck and Angus An skillfully tweaked the curry and smoking to make it work marvelously. Everyone knows that duck and Red Burgundy is a sublime pairing. What an amazing chef!

What are your choice wines to serve with Thai dishes?

Question: Thank you for you informative blog. I’m a long term reader and have learned a lot from you. My question regarding the BC Liquor Store 2019 Bordeaux release on Nov 19th:

A) What are your favourite appellations for this vintage?
B) What are your top 3 picks for red wines?
C) What are your top 3 value picks for red wines?
D) what are your top 3 picks for dry whites?

Answer: Thanks for your most complimentary remarks on our “informative” IWFS Blog. Pleased you are “a long term reader and have learned a lot”. You ask some detailed questions that we will try to help you with on your upcoming purchases:

1. Favourite Appellations in 2019? Prefer the Left Bank – especially St. Julien & Pauillac – showing better structure with more acidity than 2018 to balance out that similar ripe fruit styling.

2. Top 3 picks for 2019 red wines: No Chateau Talbot available that was ranked #4 in the just released Wine Spectator Top 100 but there are 150 diverse choices. Three excellent ones are HAUT-BAGES LIBERAL (Under the radar Pauillac) $100, LEOVILLE-POYFERRE (much improved) $225, and LYNCH-BAGES (Classic) $300. 

3. Top 3 value picks for 2019 red wines: LANESSAN (under-rated) $45, LILIAN LADOUYS (New Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel) $55, and LA VIEILLE CURE ( Rich drinkable Fronsac) $60.

4. Top 3 2019 dry whites: Harvest was quite early to save the lovely freshness. Suggest these from the18 offered: CLOS DES LUNES LUNE D’ARGENT (Semillon fuller texture good value) $40, LATOUR-MARTILLAC (Wonderful balance) $80, SMITH HAUT LAFITTE (Beauty – Cellar for maximum complexity) $280.

Enjoy your shopping! 

Often it seems that vintages adjoining highly rated vintages can be under-rated. As an example the always delightful 1989 & impressive 1991 red Burgundy still stand in the shadows of the more full-bodied 1990. Also the case in Bordeaux where the triple zero 2000 tended to have the wine consumer ignore the years on either side of it – the pleasurable 1999 & 2001 vintages. A dinner at Boulevard in Vancouver on November 8 explored these two years with several excellent properties shining brightly. A few brief details provided by your scribe:

An Aperitif of 2012 Laurent Perrier Champagne got the evening off to a good start with equal portions of highly rated vineyards chardonnay & pinot noir contributing to the flowery lively elegant bubbles from a top vintage. The next course was a duo of foie gras brilliantly paired with three Sauternes 2001:

2001 CHATEAU LAFAURIE-PEYRAGUEY
2001 CHATEAU SUDUIRAUT
2001 CHATEAU GUIRAUD

As we now realize that 2001 is a sensational vintage for Sauternes showing wonderful botrytis with vibrant acidity to balance the sweetness. All three showed very differently with L-P disappointing with a very dark look and lack of freshness in the taste. Bad bottle? Suduiraut was the clear winner with classic bright balanced pineapple full fruit and long complexity. Wow! The Guiraud also was very lovely evolving with higher Sauvignon Blanc in the mix to a charming delicious pairing with the foie gras. Super endorsement for 2001.

1999 CHATEAU KIRWAN (MARGAUX)
1999 CHATEAU PAVIE (ST. EMILION)
1999 CHATEAU LA MISSION HAUT-BRION (PESSAC-LEOGNAN)

First flight of reds quite diverse showing some of the difficult weather conditions and very rainy September affecting the weight of the wines but severe selection resulting in rather fine Grand Vin bottle results. Kirwan is more modern with fuller rustic fruit than earlier decades but lacking some Margaux “charming finesse”. Last decade vintages showing much improvement. Pavie under Perse ownership starting with the controversial first concentrated 1998 vintage. Wonderful aromatics and intense textured fruit perhaps even helped in the elegance factor by the lighter style of the year. Lovely. Liked the classy precise terroir statement of LMHB displaying well the best attributes of the more delicate year. Excellent matching with the earthy pasta course!

2001 CHATEAU LE BON PASTEUR (POMEROL)
2001 CHATEAU CLOS L’EGLISE (POMEROL)
2001 CHATEAU CANON LA GAFFELIERE (ST. EMILION)
2001 CHATEAU PALMER (MARGAUX)

Four excellent examples of the under-rated 2001 – even if not at the very top level of Sauternes. Two Pomerols with Michel Rolland connections show seductive lower acidity simpler LBP against stunning bouquet of Clos L’Eglise with a rich full silky palate. Amazing concentration for 2001 and can give 2000 (if not 1998) a competitive run. CLG solid layered softer approachable St. Emilion styling is a nice match for the duck breast. Palmer from Left Bank is so elegant but subtle with sweet complex fruit that is improved in weight and balanced texture from earlier tastings of it. Surprise of the night. Finished up with fresh firm tannins of 1983 Graham Vintage Port in Magnum! Lots of signature full riper jam of Graham style but personally prefer presently the sublime 1966 and lovely 1977. No rush for 1983 in this format.

Question: What is coulure?

Answer: Sometimes referred to as “shatter” coulure is a vineyard situation where usually because of rainy cool weather all the flowers are not pollinated resulting in uneven grape set in the bunches with lower yields.

During this continuing Covid pandemic the IWFS Vancouver Branch under the wonderful leadership of Jim & Milena Robertson and their team have done an excellent job of keeping the members together with regular interesting events. Another successful one was held on October 18, 2022 at the celebrated restaurant of Chef’s Choice Chinese Cuisine with talented Chef Tommy Pang and conscientious service manager James Law. Amazingly tasty culinary dishes smartly matched with good value wine choices from IWFS cellar. Well done.

The Menu:

Peanuts & Tea Perfectly Brewed then decanted into warming containers
Shrimp Toast & Crispy Crab Claw
Fresh Steamed Scallop in the Shell
Whole Roasted Suckling Pig – special treat!
Sauteed Fish with Seasonal Vegetables
Roast Chicken Signature Dish on Sticky Rice – always outstanding!
Stir Fried Taiwanese Cauliflower with Garlic
Taro & Mango Mochi

The Wines:

NV Segura Viudas Reserva: This Spanish Cava Metodo Tradicional with 9,4 g/l sugar has fresh orchard fruits working suitably with Chinese cuisine.

2020 L’Altro “Pio” Chardonnay Langhe DOC: L’Altro means “the other” Chardonnay (touch of Sauvignon Blanc) from family vineyards combining 75% Stainless & 25% new French oak for a versatile with food white wine.

2020 Old Vine Reserve Chenin Blanc Ken Forrester Vineyards: Big fan every vintage of this hand harvested carefully selected Chenin fermented in both tank & barrel achieving harmonious balance with
intriguing dried apricots.

2020 Sancerre La Mercy-Dieu Domaine Bailly-Reverdy: Blended Sauvignon Blanc from three soil types of flint, marl, and limestone pebbles providing open aromatics and freshness. Refreshing.

2015 Chateau De France Grand Bordeaux Blanc Pessac-Leognan: Thomassin family delivers an aged barrel fermented 80% Sauvignon & 20% Semillon blend with rich spicy notes that pair well with the dishes..

2019 Bourgogne Rouge Pinot Noir Justin Girardin: Current very good value French pinot noir from older vines in southern regions helped to ripen by climate change and emphasizing the pure fruit using 50% tank & 50% all previously used Allier & Vosges barrels for 15 months.