Question: Which wine country has avoided phylloxera damaging the vineyards?

Answer: Tricky. Phylloxera results from an insect feeding on the sap of grapevine roots thereby killing them. Probably the consensus answer would be Chile. However, there are many other wine producing regions that have been phylloxera-free so far. These include the historic Colares in Portugal on those sandy soils, isolated Tasmania and other parts of Australia (Barossa Valley), parts of Hungary, and those special slate soils for Riesling in the Mosel Germany. Has anyone researched this issue and come up with a definitive list?

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Happy New Year! Hope the 2023 year provides lots of interesting wine and food experiences for all of you. Over the festive season your scribe was fortunate to try several wonderful mature wines from around the world including some choice bubbles (fresh bright rich complex 1990 La Grande Dame en magnum from Veuve Clicquot). One of the strongest impressions made was the solid performance of some older cabernet sauvignon variety wines from the unique terroir terra rossa red soils in Coonawarra Australia. Long time admirer of the Wynns Coonawarra Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon which has been featured on this Blog before on January 18, 2021 linked here. Tried many vintages of that famous Black Label and though some of the editions back in the early 1960s showed a tad too much volatile acidity since then (especially over the last 30+ years) they have proven to be one of the very best quality big production value ageable cabernets in the world. Just tasted again the classic 2013 (the 58th vintage) which continues to elegantly shine at only 13.5 abv showing young black currant plum notes with a touch of spicy mint – and of course that lovely opulent 1986 & famous herbal 1976 (Jimmy Watson Trophy winner) surprisingly still so drinkable.

Paired this time with the 2013 Wynns was the 1977 Laira Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon made & bottled by Brand (established in 1966 but with old vines already planted and before the sale to McWilliams). This my last bottle was in hopeful anticipation being the best young cabernet your scribe tasted during his visit to Australia in 1980 for the IWFS World Convention. Extensive write-up on this Convention in my Monograph “An Appreciation Of The Age Of Wine” where some older Grange Bin 95 treasures of 1971 & that Decanter Living Legend 1955 were served. Laira is named after a ship shown on the front label by original owner sea captain Stentiford from the 1890s which was a popular wine on release for the 1977 winning Gold Medals in Brisbane & Melbourne shows. Tasted spectacularly in 1980 though James Halliday in his book “Wines & Wineries of South Australia” (1981) states: “Putting recurrent question of volatility to one side, I believe that Eric Brand consistently produces the greatest – certainly the most distinctive and full-flavoured – Coonawarra reds. It may be that very edge of volatility which lifts Brand’s wines out of the ruck, although their colour is usually stronger and structure better than other Coonawarra reds.” Halliday goes on to write that this $4.50 cabernet sauvignon 1977 is ” Deep-coloured, intensely flavoured with complex fruit structure augmented by new wood. The 1976, 1977, and 1978 wines were absolutely superb.”

This 1977 vintage of Laira has been admired over the last decade in Cellar Tracker with high scores in the 90s but all reviewers complaining about the fragile corks. Our bottle did have a very small cork but came out intact with my Durand even after 45 years. The wine was still a dark red mature colour but wonderfully smooth displaying complexity with elegance, finesse and delicacy. Doesn’t disappoint with volatility or lack of fruit but is very mature. Of course much less bold fruit than the 36 years younger Wynns 2013 but a lovely endorsement for the longevity of Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon. Recommend buying a few bottles of more recent Coonawarra vintages and putting them away – but maybe for only 10-20 years rather than 45.

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Thanks for your most thoughtful and often quite challenging questions throughout 2022. They certainly were a mixed bag of queries concerning both food but mainly wine. Your scribe always likes to hear from you and appreciates your interest & participation in this popular Wednesday feature. Award best question of the year to Jenny C for her recent most specific topical question (actually 4) on Champagne recommendations for the festive season. One of the great benefits of our interest in food & wine is that all of us continue to regularly learn and educate ourselves on this fascinating topic. Please keep it going with more in 2023!

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1. What is all the hype about the new 2019 Chateau d’Yquem?

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2. What is the name of the largest grape variety?

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3. What are the differences between Ridge Zinfandel wines from Geyserville & Lytton Springs?

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4. Name of the wind affecting Rioja vineyards?

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5. What is Geosmin?

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6. What is the correct temperature at which you should serve your Champagne?

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7. Who are some of the main Burgundy producers that are now in Oregon?

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8. What is the buzz on this new wine bottle made out of paper?

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9. I live in Ontario and enjoy good value red wine in the $25 range, especially cabernet sauvignons from Paso Robles. Any guidance to those?

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10. Which wine region do you expect to benefit most this year from climate change?

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Your scribe tries to give you insight into a broad selection of quality wines (and sometimes food) every Monday in his weekly Blog. More emphasis is placed on older bottles because generally there already is a plethora of views out there on the social media about the currently released vintages. Less information on choice cellared bottles. Perhaps too much focus is placed on Bordeaux & Burgundy (including Chablis) but most IWFS members have a keen interest in and collection from those regions. It is noted that your Top Ten for 2022 lists 3 articles about Burgundy & Bordeaux – including your #1 Pichon Lalande. Lots of other ones would make my top 10 including the IWFS Wine Pairings as a valuable new resource, the 3 part IWFS Vancouver Branch tour of the popular South Okanagan, and the spotlight on the 3 Leovilles from St. Julien with Bill Blatch. Thanks for your wonderful support and hope you continue to follow us during 2023.

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1. PICHON LALANDE CONTINUES TO BE AN AMAZING PAUILLAC!

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2. ROAST SUCKLING PIG IMPRESSIVE PAIRED WITH SUPERB TRIMBACH ALSACE GRAND CRU MANDELBERG

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3. ENJOYMENT FOR NEARLY 40 YEARS OF THOSE AMAZING 1982 ST. JULIEN WINES

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4. OPUS ONE VERTICAL HIGHLIGHTS AN INTERESTING HISTORY

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5. CHARDONNAY VARIETY FROM OKANAGAN BRITISH COLUMBIA HAS MADE GREAT PROGRESS TO WORLD CLASS

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6. PRODUCER, VINTAGE & VINEYARD ALL IMPORTANT INFLUENCES ON PULIGNY-MONTRACHET QUALITY

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7. ROUSSEAU BURGUNDIES MAYBE WORTHY OF INFLATED PRICES

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8. DOMAINE CHANDON DE BRIAILLES ZOOM WINE TASTING VERY IMPRESSIVE WITH RESPECTED MADAME CLAUDE DE NICOLAY

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9. ITALIAN WHITES MUCH IMPROVED ARE WELL WORTH EXPLORING & EVEN AGING

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10. 2019 BORDEAUX WINES RELEASE AT BCLDB STORES ON NOVEMBER 19

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Question: Just starting to study the Chablis region and wonder which are the best upcoming vintages I should buy and drink. Please help.

Answer: Yes, not that easy. 2017 wines are most worthy well-balanced examples (but not as intense as those outstanding 2014s). Both softer 2018 & concentrated 2019 are drinking forwardly but felt the effect of heat spikes from global warming showing less vigour. 2020 is the best bet with early picking and better resulting vibrancy in a more classic style. Your scribe has already purchased 2020 Butteaux 1er cru Domaine Servin & Les Clos Grand Cru from Christian Moreau. 2021 is a more difficult variable year that required careful attention in the vineyard & winery and again a smaller crop because of the frost issues. Generally less lively but some are showing fine quality. Shop carefully. Surprisingly, the 2022 presently in the pipeline may have survived the frosts, heat waves, and drought to produce higher
quantities (good news) with livelier better quality than expected. Check out the value of improving Petit Chablis & Chablis AC. Perhaps try these last 3 vintages and compare some distinctive terroirs from this wonderful unique wine region.

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