Answer: Just tasted at Top Drop Vancouver 2023 a delicious Riesling specifically crafted to pair well with Thai food. The wine is named “The Riesling Project” from the 2022 vintage. It is the inspiration of Chef Angus An, proprietor of Maenam restaurant (outstanding Thai cuisine), Sommelier Kurtis Kolt, and two RIesling devotee winemakers contributing fruit while working together to realize the dream – David Paterson of Tantalus Vineyards in the Okanagan Valley & John Weber of Orofino in the Similkameen. The result is a Riesling well described on the back label as “a dry-ish multi-layered, juicy wine loaded with charisma … to be a pitch-perfect match for Thai cuisine”. Well done!
Last week @WinesofBC held their annual Media Preview of Vintage 2022 for #BCWine. An excellent panel of winemakers from across BC presented a detailed look with a representative tasting. Some encouraging wine examples were shown by the ripe enough yet still fresh balanced 2022 year. It confirmed the earlier Vintage Report released by @WineGrowersBC of average to above-average yields from a cool early start to a warm sunny harvest. When you look at our esteemed IWFS Vintage Card ratings you will note that the top 7/7 ratings are given to only 2020, 2016, and 2014 followed by 6/7 for 2018, 2017, 2015, 2013, and 2012. Too early yet for their 2022 score. In my humble opinion, our summary Chart as expected doesn’t tell the full story of many diverse vintages across geographically widely separated wine regions. Lots of variation by region and especially by producer. There is a more interesting breakdown Chart attached at WineBC.com by Wine Growers British Columbia divided into helpful categories of Temperatures, Rainfall, and Crop Yields. Let’s take a closer look:
TEMPERATURES:
Cooler: 2010, 2011, 2019 – lighter less ripe higher acidity but aging well Moderate: 2012, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2020, 2022 – better balance structure Hot: 2013, 2014, 2015, 2021 – richer riper softer fruit
Low: 2010, 2019, 2020, 2021 – three shorter crops in a row before 2022 Average: 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2017, 2022 High: 2016, 2018
Another outstanding report worth studying has been prepared by LE VIEUX PIN WINERY assessing vintages in the South Okanagan from 2022 back to 2005. October 2022 was “one of the few warmest Octobers on record”. Admire their point that “Some vintages are all about grace, while others favour power and of course, there are ones where they showcase that fine balance of grace and power.” They note the Growing Degree Days with 2015 at 1764 (just behind hottest years 1998 & 2003) plus most helpful vintage style and when to drink information. Recommended.
You will be pleased to know that some older wines served at the Media Preview Reception showed very well. Especially noteworthy were balanced 2020 Chardonnay from O’Rourke Family Estate, elegant pure 2020 Pinot Noir from Blue Grouse Estate Winery, and ripe Similkameen fruit in 2014 Meritage Vanessa Vineyard. Vintages matter! For sure, climate change (2021 heat dome in BC) plus increasing wildfire smoke damage (Blue Mountain Vineyard decided not to bottle any 2021 vintage due to grape contamination) are becoming more important factors in all bottled wines. Caveat emptor. Your scribe’s current advice is to remain open-minded about your vintage assessments for British Columbia wines – as well as those from other regions around the world!
Answer: Most producers in these enlightened times are looking to use lighter glass bottles or other suitable wine containers with an environmental advantage in presenting a better sustainable lower carbon footprint, Yes, boxed wines are improved and no longer just for the cheapest wines. They are attempting to move up-market. An interesting article by Eric Asimov in his weekly The Pour of the May 10 issue of the NY Times “Thinking Inside the Box for Quality Wines” spotlights ten choices. One is a 3-liter choice from California at $72 (about $18/bottle) for Ryme Cellars Mendocino Fox Hill Vineyard Sangiovese-Friulano 2020. Check out some of the producers brought into your local markets who are now putting some of their better-quality wine into boxes! What do you think about them?
Many educational wine seminars as is usual were held during #VIWF2023 including a California spotlight at Taco Fest Wine Mingler evening event, public seminar of Eureka in the Glass!, and a seminar An Era in the Making. This last Trade seminar was moderated by the insightful Elaine Chukan Brown ably assisted by Mark de Vere MW from Robert Mondavi Winery and Nicolas Paris MW Diretor of Wine & Spirits Education from E & J Gallo Winery – one of the real highlights of the week!
The very worldly knowledgeable panel asked the question “Where is California wine now? How unique is it?” California is so diverse producing light fresh styles to full rich ones using many different grape varieties. Three maps illustrated the important influences of the cold Pacific Ocean and the tall mountain ranges among many factors on the grape vines development. Elaine made the emphatic point that California is now the 4th largest in the world by volume with an important global scale – like a Country – plus lots of capital behind it. They focused on 10 wines to help show where California wine is presently:
1. NV GLORIA FERRER, SONOMA, BLANC DE BLANCS
Single variety of 100% chardonnay including Wente clone do well here in this cooler region ripening slowly to keep the fresh acidity. “How can I make this Sparkling more complex?” Long slow ferment provides texture (but not heavy) with admirable freshness of “Granny Smith apple & Asian pear”
2. 2020 DRY CREEK VINEYARD, DRY CREEK VALLEY SAUVIGNON BLANC
Surprised that they were showing 2 Sauvignons and no Chardonnay. We compared this one with 3 sauvignon varieties from a region of less heat but cooler breezy winds using 83% stainless & 17% barrel-fermented resulting in a more citrus style. Consumers expecting a more New Zealand like presentation but California different with warm days but cold air at night resulting in perfect grapes less herbaceous with good acidity
3. 2021 SPOTTSWOODE, NAPA VALLEY, SAUVIGNON BLANC
More classic and more Bordeaux-like with 96% SB & 4% Semillon (helps body) using French oak, Stainless Steel, Clay Amphora, and Ceramic vessels to advantage. Wineries like Mondavi are using battonage (lees stirring) for more texture resulting in a richer mouth feel for aging. Mark says “wineries are much more serious with Sauvignon Blanc recently” Elaine adds that “there still is good Chardonnay produced in California”
4. 2020 RAEN SONOMA COAST PINOT NOIR
Interesting to compare 2 Pinot Noir from Sonoma this one 100% whole cluster (and Walt 100% destemmed). Lighter colour (stems dilute) but open & enticing even though 2 years younger with delicate structured complexity. Interesting.
5. 2018 WALT SONOMA GAP’S CROWN PINOT NOIR
East side of Petaluma Gap protected from Ocean winds. Deep ripe pure voluptuous pinot with more extraction showing. Impressive depth of fruit.
6. 2019 RIDGE, ALEXANDER VALLEY, GEYSERVILLE ZINFANDEL
Two Zinfandels to compare with this old vines field blend of 32 lots from 43 in total fermented has 71% Zin plus 19% Carignane + 7% Petite Sirah & 3 % Alicante Bouschet showing amazing Geyserville power even from a cooler year with wonderful elegance in American oak. 14.5 abv
7. 2019 BLACK STALLION, NAPA VALLEY, LIMITED RELEASE ZINFANDEL
Vineyard selection of mainly mountain smaller bunches of 100% Zin with 18 months in both American & French oak. Big more alcohol (15.5 abv) & some minerality noted.
8. 2017 PAHLMEYER, NAPA VALLEY MERLOT
Two sites with cooler Napa volcanic soil and another one 1000 feet elevation. Concentrated but not too extracted. We all agreed with Nicolas that “this 100% Merlot & 100% new oak showed better acid & tannins than usual for a Napa Merlot”. Nicolas says “older vines and mountain fruit make a big difference” He believes “Merlot doesn’t always get the best soils that usually go to Cabernet Sauvignon but they are pushing Pahlmeyer in this better direction”.
9. 2018 CHAPPELLET, NAPA VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON
Finished up with two excellent Cabernet Sauvignons! This is at a higher elevation on Pritchard Hill pioneered by Chappellet but now home to so many Cult wineries. All mountain fruit Estate Grown blending 85% CS with 10% Petit Verdot & 5% Malbec
10. 2010 ROBERT MONDAVI, NAPA VALLEY, TO KALON VINEYARD, RESERVE CABERNET SAUVIGNON
Lower elevation but the very historic To Kalon Vineyard. HIgher CS 97.5 with 2.5 PV with same 14.5 abv. Mark gave credit to Robert Mondavi for discovering this special terroir vineyard. They are protecting it with reduced carbon footprint plus gentler sustainable farming methods that includes buying the first 6 (numbered #1- 6) new Electric Tractors in September 2022. Elaine says other wineries have ordered some since the initial purchase by Robert Mondavi and we will be seeing a lot more Electric Tractors in California vineyards.
An inspiring Trade seminar on the latest developments in California wine. Very well done indeed! My congrats.
Question: How often can an oak tree provide cork for wine bottle closures?
Answer: Pleased to acknowledge the overall improved quality of cork closures coming mainly from Portugal but also Spain. Generally, it takes 15 years for a newly planted cork tree to produce any usable bark but for much better quality “the rule of 9” must be added onto that and then can be harvested on a continuing 9-year cycle thereafter. Fun to visit the “breadbasket” of Portugal in the Alentejo region and see it all happening!
