The Vancouver Branch of The International Wine & Food Society does a remarkable job each year of holding an interesting diverse program of wine and food events. Deserved credit goes to long time leaders Milena & Jim Robertson with assistance from their organizing team. So well done! However, the Robertsons are so dedicated and inspired that they organize additional personal dinner functions as well – usually with a theme often Spanish or Portuguese. On November 11, 2023 (Remembrance Day in Canada & Veterans Day in USA) was their second Paella party with some 40 lucky guests including many IWFS members. The early focus was Pintxos which are small snacks initially eaten mid-morning in Basque country of northern Spain mostly served on skewers or toothpicks. However they have now become gastronomic Basque tapas of their own and so much more. Admire how the Robertsons are on top of everything prepared (including Milena’s outstanding Romesco sauce and Jim’s marinated mussels) but also show such participative leadership in these ventures including inviting others to help and learn from one another. These included this time Chef Don Guthro of D.I.C.E.D Culinary Centre (who deservedly just received the 2023 Lifetime Achievement Award from Vancouver Magazine) who made the gazpacho, the salad, the croquetas and the Basque cheesecake plus Sabina & Kisa from his staff assisting and serving. Also Simone Levy for the potato & tuna pintxo and energetic Shelome Bouvette – master cook of the most amazing empanadas with her delicious complex filling – and even assisting Jim in the final cooking and service of the paella.

What a treat. So many personal fav dishes to try but your scribe really liked the grilled artichokes and the Serrano ham pintxos – and of course those empanadas! What a collection of wines from Spain to taste and match with the dishes. My wine of the night among many was the fantastic quality complex great vintage 2001 La Rioja Alta Gran Reserva 890 of 95% Tempranillo, 3% Graciano, and 2% Mazuelo using only best barrels with 6 years in used American oak.

Not only textbook pintxos but main courses too. A large roasted suckling pig (which Don carved up superbly) and crispy pork belly both from Kuy’s Lechon. Another “piece de resistance” Jim’s Paella a la Valenciana was perfectly done and not over stirred with a light golden crispy crust (“socarrat”) authentically forming on the bottom. Many different ways to do Valencia Paella as this Gambero Rosso article explains in more detail here. Jim advises us that ” Some purists insist that paella is only Valencia style while others state that Paella is the name of the pan and any rice dish cooked in it.” In any event a classic memorable Paella a la Valenciana enjoyed here! All of us are hoping there will be a third one by the Robertsons sometime in the future. Many thanks.

Question: How is total wine production looking for 2023?

Answer: The OIV (International Organisation of Vine and Wine) just released their earliest numbers estimating that it is the lowest volume since 1961. This is a result of lower production due to adverse weather conditions especially in the Southern Hemisphere countries of Argentina, Australia, Brazil, Chile and South Africa plus in the European Union of Italy & Spain. New Zealand and the USA both showed higher than average production. However, keep in mind that these numbers don’t include the ever increasing amount of wine by China.

Your scribe has enjoyed eating chicken as long ago as I can remember. It started out with plain dishes, mostly deep fried, recalling our local White Spot (started in BC in 1928 coming up soon to their century mark) with their delicious Chicken Pickin’ and Chicken in the Straw. A different take on the then-popular US chains of Kentucky Fried Chicken, Chick-fil-A, Church’s, and Popeyes. For a while, I thought tenderness was the most important quality to seek for the best chicken and therefore used a marinating technique overnight with buttermilk or yogurt. Even tried the Chinese tender cooking trick of adding baking soda. I grew into other dishes like Butter chicken, a la King, Piccata, Kiev, BBQ and Cordon Blue. Made a point of dining at Zuni Cafe whenever in San Francisco to admire their special roasted chicken. Recently I rather prefer a simpler natural Chicken Under A Brick preparation or anything using the chicken thighs – arguably the tastiest part of the chicken!

Preferred now to use free range birds and the need for better quality fowl in order to produce a top chicken dish. Not wanting rubber chicken! In France we cherish the “Poulet de Bresse” and have ordered it over the years at many restaurants prepared in different ways by a plethora of MIchelin recognized chefs.

Last month while in Burgundy we visited L’Hotel De Beaune for the ultimate treat of the world’s best whole roasted Bresse chicken. Appreciated knowledgeable Elpie Marinakis co-owner & Managing Director of the Wedgewood Hotel & Spa for her reliable culinary personal recommendation to me. The menu offers “Les Specialites du Bistro” which serves Poulet de Bresse at a total price of 100 Euros or Poularde de Bresse for 120 both serving two persons. They are similar but the Poularde is plumper and bred for a longer 5 months in a meadow rather than the usual 4 months for the Poulet. This was clearly the very best flavour of pure chicken we ever have tasted. Simply roasted to ideal perfection with the most amazing tender juicy magical wonderful intense taste of chicken that you could possibly imagine. My highest recommendation. Returning to Burgundy next Spring 2024 and look forward to ordering it again. Worth a detour and a must item on your bucket list. Enjoy!

Question: The 2023 Bordeaux harvest seems to have had some issues with mildew, especially on some Merlot grapes. Would you please simply explain what causes mildew?

Answer: Mildew, sometimes called powdery mildew, is a microbial disease caused by a fungus on the grapes. Early canopy management can be an important tool in preventing the moist environment that allows mildew to thrive. Wine made with grapes affected by mildew can show less quality aromatics with sometimes earthy botrytis notes. A couple of interesting articles for more details are “Grape Powdery Mildew” December 2015 by the British Columbia MInistry of Agriculture here and Jamie Goode dated March 27, 2020 “Wine science: powdery mildew, the wine world’s biggest problem” here.

Domaine Comte Georges De Vogue is a respected Estate in Chambolle-Musigny with a long history dating back to 1450 with the same ownership over 20 generations. Extraordinary indeed. Your scribe has been an intensive student of them for many decades dating back to a historic tasting organized by Tawfiq Khoury for KPBS radio fundraiser in San Diego on October 24, 1984. Reference is made on pages 59-60 in my 2012 Monograph for IWFS titled “An Appreciation of the Age Of Wine” noting that “we compared Comte de Vogue Musigny (generally more elegant) with Bonnes Mares (generally more round and full) in pairs from 1979 back to 1934. The tasting highlighted the terroir differences with preferences for Musigny Vieilles Vignes 1971, 1949 (MIchael Broadbent told me that this was his favourite), 1945 (in magnum), 1937, and 1934.” Another less extensive but interesting update was held by the IWFS in Puerto Rico on April 24, 1998 led by Estate Manager Jean-Luc Pepin featuring 1992 & 1972 vintages plus a comparison of rich fruit but a bit bottle inconsistent 1990, lighter charming 1989, and tannic higher acidity 1988. In Vancouver for the 2012 IWFS World Festival on September 13 a wine tasting was conducted by Jean-Luc Pepin and your scribe featuring the backward 2008 vintage plus a mini-vertical of Musigny VV of young 2006, delightful 2002 and classic 1999.

Many visits to the Domaine during the tenure of winemaker Francois Millot from 1986 until his retirement in 2021. Great anticipation for my first visit on October 12, 2023 with the new head winemaker Jean Lupatelli (the nephew of Aubert de Villaine of DRC) tasting the miracle vintage 2022 in barrel. Asked Jean Lupatelli the early differences he saw between 2023 & 2022 but advised by him that hard to summarize presently as both were hot years but 2022 was drier and easier to ferment than 2023 that was more difficult. At this point of evolution it is hard to say but he is pleased at the moment with the wonderful 2022s. Easy to see why!

2022 CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY: Fresh vibrant 1.8+ hectares picked by hand in late September. 50% whole bunch.

2002 BONNES MARES Grand Cru: South location is key with limestone and a lot of clay producing 25 barrels from 2.67 hectares of total AC 15.06. Well structured with beautiful tannins. 50% whole bunch. Shows the miracle result of 2022.

2022 LES AMOUREUSES Premier Cru: Again using 50% whole bunches on their .56 hectare parcel out of total 5.4. Asked him if he was not worried about losing the typical charm, delicacy and elegance of this special climate. He said yes but the owners want made the best aging wine possible and he is confident that this new whole bunch method will work successfully. Certainly shows charm, elegance plus power and structure. Impressive indeed!

2022 MUSIGNY Grand Cru: Large holdings here of 7.12 hectares out of 10.85. 50% whole bunches again. So many flowers, herbs, light pepper spice aromas opening in the glass. Texture and vibrancy of the dense pure fruit is really outstanding. Tried another barrel from a northern portion of the oldest vines that is even more intense. Can’t believe the truly superb entry with buckets of fruit and admirable layers. Perfect new oak influence. Has amazing structure with tannins kicking in on mid-palate with a long finish. These are what I call super structured complex barrel samples. All of these wines for sure should develop into collectible cellar treasures. Congrats.