Another interesting horizontal wine tasting/dinner spotlighting the 2009 Bordeaux vintage was held on May 27, 2024 by La Commanderie de Bordeaux at Boulevard in Vancouver. In fact all eleven wines served were from that year starting with the 2009 PHILIPPONNAT Champagne and the 2009 Chateau de RAYNE VIGNEAU Sauternes. The exquisite starting bubbles were the Grand Blanc Extra-Brut using 100% “Premiere Press”, from 100% Premiers et Grands Crus Cote des Blancs vineyards, and 100% Chardonnay. The production was 19722 bottles with 4.25 g/l dosage and this bottle disgorged in July 2019 was lovely fresh round creamy stone fruits with minerality. The Sauternes was rich but with a lighter delicacy than expected from the 20% Sauvignon Blanc in the blend and earlier picking of 80% Semillon (September 29 to October 16) showing fine balance for current use and aging.

The nine Bordeaux reds were well organized into three flights of Right Bank (two St. Emilion & one Pomerol), Pauillac (all Fifth Growths), and St. Julien (two Second Growths & a Fourth). 2009 is an extraordinary vintage and a hot twin comparison with the following more classic 2010 year. Your scribe with knowledgeable baggage was expecting 2009 to deliver ripe rich concentrated fruit with some higher alcohols but more in a softer delivery like 2003 and 1990. However, the surprise was the deep balanced intense sweet fruit on the Left Bank wines still in an impressive primary stage with a wonderful future ahead of them to develop very well indeed. It seems that at 15 years of age the top properties are under-appreciated for their exciting longevity. A few brief comments on the flights:

2009 CHATEAU L’ARROSEE: An old fav of mine with that remarkable 1961 and as recently reported on this Blog on April 8, 2024 a delightful 1962. It has disappeared as its own wine since the purchase in 2013 by Domaine Clarence Dillon and is now a part of Chateau Quintus. Here 44Merlot/28CabSauv/28CabFranc show in tasting this blend at only 13 abv in a paler rim and elegant earlier maturing example.

2009 CHATEAU MONBOUSQUET: Darkest of first flight showing the concentration possible from the low yields of overripe mostly Merlot (60% with the rest mainly Cab Franc 30/CabSauv 10) at 14.2 abv in a modern almost Napa-like powerful style. A bit rustic. Almost too much of a good jammy thing.

2009 CHATEAU LA CROIX ST. -GEORGES: Ripe powerful Pomerol of 94% Merlot/6% Cab Franc at nearly 15 abv from gravelly soils captures the opulent softness of the year with those typical iron notes terroir interest. Improved with the excellent foie gras pate course.

2009 CHATEAU GRAND PUY LACOSTE: Outstanding Pauillac property with that superb 1982 & developing 1986 was less successful in the hot 2003 vintage. However here their pure 2009 of 80% Cab Sauv is a balanced medium bodied supple elegant beauty drinking on a harmonious plateau. Delicious.

2009 CHATEAU PONTET CANET: Darkest deepest of second flight. Open nose of fresh primary cigar box cedar fruit with depth. Brilliant structure with amazing balance and tannins for the dense powerful Pauillac bio fruit hinting of complexity yet to come with further aging. Admire the future of this one. My fav.

2009 CHATEAU PEDESCLAUX: Darker than GPL. Third Pauillac is less known and less celebrated but on a big upcurve with a modern accessible attractive style using better selection. Watch out for this value from a true Pauillac terroir. Best red with a different tasty matching of Ling Cod fish but with a robust chorizo red pepper Basquaise sauce.

2009 CHATEAU GRUAUD LAROSE: Paler edge and lighter than expected but a lovely St. Julien definition. Fine wine in a floral earthy forwardly from 68CS/32M but prefer my older complex bigger more classic 1982 & 1986. Possibly better 2009 bottles out there or presently in a dumb stage. Slightly disappointing in a tough group.

2009 CHATEAU ST. PIERRE: Surprisingly dark with lots of massive spicy full fruit showing graphite. Under-appreciated property as was the 1985 reported here on May 6, 2024. Recommend this value.

2009 LEOVILLE LAS CASES: Top Second Growth St. Julien lives up again to the high reputation. Darkest look with intense colour. Powerful and very refined. More luscious supple with fine silky tannins and showing more attractively presently than the backward Pontet Canet. Both have an unlimited future. Close to a virtual tie for WOTN. PC & LLC plus charming GPL all a perfect pairing with the choice prime striploin course.

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Question: What is this new treatment that I am hearing about for protecting wine grapes against powdery mildew without the use of chemicals?

Answer: There is a new system being tested for mildew at Vineland Estates in Ontario Canada that hopefully will show success against this ever increasing problem in the warmer vineyards around the world. This new sustainable approach combines 3 basic elements of UV Light, Hydrogen Peroxide, and Ozone on the grape vines. Detailed article by CBC Canada updated on May 28 is linked here.

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On a rainy Sunday May 26, 2024 The Chefs’ Table Society of BC (CTS) with Pacific Prawn Fishermen’s Association (PPFA) held the popular Spot Prawn Festival at Fishermen’s Wharf on False Creek in Vancouver. This event started in 2006 and has turned into a popular culinary family outing.The price for this tasty seafood continues to rise – like most groceries today – but that doesn’t hinder the enthusiastic response.

Access to the docks is free with educational cooking demos, or a $10+ ounce bowl of hot Spot Prawn Bisque (veggies & 1/4 whipping cream) by Organic Ocean, or a $79+ tasting menu of 6 delicious Chef prepared dishes.

A total of 12 talented chefs prepared dishes (6 at the 11:30 am setting and another 6 at the 1:30 pm start). Exciting action. More detailed write-ups of past successful events on this Blog last year here and also in 2022 here.

The photos capture some of the delightful experiences shared by many attending. Well organized.

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Question: What is a Champagne Split?

Answer: A Split is a smaller 1/4 size of a regular 750 ml bottle of Sparkling wine. This 187+ ml size seems to be named after the Italian word for small. Also see the use of the word Piccolo as well. Less frequently seen these days.  Remember the old days when we often bought and enjoyed individual splits (with cork closures) from Pol Roger Champagne. Fun. 

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As followers of this Blog know your scribe is an enthusiastic follower of Burgundy including the iconic Clos de Tart. Founded back in 1141 this respected domaine has had nearly 900 years of history to get things right. More recently the family Marey-Monge 1791-1932 followed by family Mommessin 1932-2018 made some glorious vintages but lacked consistency. In April 2018 the Pinault family under Artemis Domaines acquired this large distinct Grand Cru terroir monopole site in Morey-Saint-Denis of 7.53 hectares. Several previous references by me including an extensive vertical posted here on December 12, 2016. Still a big fan of the lighter mature delicate 1985, outstanding complex brilliant 1990 and patience for excellence balanced 2005 (tasted again last week and still needs more cellaring to reach ultimate heights).

Pleased to report on an extended update visit there last week with Director Alessandro Noli to check out the major renovations to the tasting room, vat room, and vineyards with already these innovative quality improvements showing in the wines.  Too many to list all of them here but some 7 major changes include these:

1. Vat room now has a variety of sizes from largest 40 HL down to 20 first used in 2019 to accommodate precisely all the different distinct plots in the vineyard. 

2. Change the philosophy of the wine making using less extraction that had produced sometimes a more rustic too much tannin with a shorter dry finish style. New vertical press. The “DNA of the Clos de Tart vineyard has a powerful terroir so doesn’t need a lot of extraction.” Alessandro only keeping the cap wet and humid and not over extracting while key focus is on bringing out elegance and finesse as key elements in the finished wines.

3. Less new oak from the 100% used previously. Started to lower in 2015 at 80% but now down to about 60% in the Grand Vin & 45% in the second La Forge again for their elegance goal. May eventually go to 40/20. Using three main coopers of Taransaud, Francois Freres, and Saint Martin but prefers and is expanding the latter one.

4. Experimenting with the help of the University of Bordeaux in determining the right amount of whole clusters to use. Many samples sent at different times both before and after malolactic fermentation over the last four years to find the ideal impact. Impressive research ongoing over the varying climatic conditions each year. “Too much stems inclusion can mask the wonderful distinctive terroir of Clos de Tart”. Decision made to include about 52% for 2022 (and 20-25% for La Forge)

5. Excellent key grape selection for very best Grand Vin as they now are producing a Village AC third wine from very young vines (3-6 years) from all the plots as well as second wine La Forge.

6. Late blending of plots for Grand Vin then allowing the the blend some time to cohese together in barrel before bottling. Less new oak therefore want patience with longer vat time.

7. Yields are lower with 2023 at 35 hl/ha & 2022 at 28 hl/ha.

The proof was in the tasting of 2022 Village, La Forge, and Clos de Tart.

VILLAGE AC 2022 early harvest start August 26 using 2018 replanting and zero new oak bottled a month ago shows fresh red fruit aromatics. 

 LA FORGE 2022 has 23 year old vines (1984 planting) with better clonal selection with 20-25% whole clusters shows fresh elegance.

CLOS DE TART 2022 deep dark but bright clean aromas. Impressive smooth refined tannins with superb balance so elegant. “Ready to bottle”. Sure shows how less can result in more for the wine! Congrats.

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