Archive for October, 2023

Domaine Comte Georges De Vogue is a respected Estate in Chambolle-Musigny with a long history dating back to 1450 with the same ownership over 20 generations. Extraordinary indeed. Your scribe has been an intensive student of them for many decades dating back to a historic tasting organized by Tawfiq Khoury for KPBS radio fundraiser in San Diego on October 24, 1984. Reference is made on pages 59-60 in my 2012 Monograph for IWFS titled “An Appreciation of the Age Of Wine” noting that “we compared Comte de Vogue Musigny (generally more elegant) with Bonnes Mares (generally more round and full) in pairs from 1979 back to 1934. The tasting highlighted the terroir differences with preferences for Musigny Vieilles Vignes 1971, 1949 (MIchael Broadbent told me that this was his favourite), 1945 (in magnum), 1937, and 1934.” Another less extensive but interesting update was held by the IWFS in Puerto Rico on April 24, 1998 led by Estate Manager Jean-Luc Pepin featuring 1992 & 1972 vintages plus a comparison of rich fruit but a bit bottle inconsistent 1990, lighter charming 1989, and tannic higher acidity 1988. In Vancouver for the 2012 IWFS World Festival on September 13 a wine tasting was conducted by Jean-Luc Pepin and your scribe featuring the backward 2008 vintage plus a mini-vertical of Musigny VV of young 2006, delightful 2002 and classic 1999.

Many visits to the Domaine during the tenure of winemaker Francois Millot from 1986 until his retirement in 2021. Great anticipation for my first visit on October 12, 2023 with the new head winemaker Jean Lupatelli (the nephew of Aubert de Villaine of DRC) tasting the miracle vintage 2022 in barrel. Asked Jean Lupatelli the early differences he saw between 2023 & 2022 but advised by him that hard to summarize presently as both were hot years but 2022 was drier and easier to ferment than 2023 that was more difficult. At this point of evolution it is hard to say but he is pleased at the moment with the wonderful 2022s. Easy to see why!

2022 CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY: Fresh vibrant 1.8+ hectares picked by hand in late September. 50% whole bunch.

2002 BONNES MARES Grand Cru: South location is key with limestone and a lot of clay producing 25 barrels from 2.67 hectares of total AC 15.06. Well structured with beautiful tannins. 50% whole bunch. Shows the miracle result of 2022.

2022 LES AMOUREUSES Premier Cru: Again using 50% whole bunches on their .56 hectare parcel out of total 5.4. Asked him if he was not worried about losing the typical charm, delicacy and elegance of this special climate. He said yes but the owners want made the best aging wine possible and he is confident that this new whole bunch method will work successfully. Certainly shows charm, elegance plus power and structure. Impressive indeed!

2022 MUSIGNY Grand Cru: Large holdings here of 7.12 hectares out of 10.85. 50% whole bunches again. So many flowers, herbs, light pepper spice aromas opening in the glass. Texture and vibrancy of the dense pure fruit is really outstanding. Tried another barrel from a northern portion of the oldest vines that is even more intense. Can’t believe the truly superb entry with buckets of fruit and admirable layers. Perfect new oak influence. Has amazing structure with tannins kicking in on mid-palate with a long finish. These are what I call super structured complex barrel samples. All of these wines for sure should develop into collectible cellar treasures. Congrats.

Question: Liked your interesting Blog on the typical white and red Burgundy aromas. One of the 12 you listed was Empyreumatic Family. Would you please explain further?

Answer: At the Cite in Beaune they explained it as “burnt smoked coffee roasting toast mocha grilled almonds these aromas are linked to the toasting process in the manufacture of oak barrels for wine aging”

Hope this helps.

Your scribe this month visited the exciting new models of viticulture in Bourgogne opened in Chablis May 17, 2023 and Beaune June 17, 2023 but not the one in Macon. They impressively show the history and development over 2000 years and the diversity of the regions including different vineyard soil profiles. Lots to study and learn. Spent most time in Beaune reviewing lots of detailed displays and useful information including the origins of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Especially enjoyed smelling the typical Bourgogne aromas displayed in large containers shown as attachments here:

FLORAL FAMILY, WHITE FLOWERS
FAMILY OF FRESH FRUITS, CITRUS FRUIT
FAMILY OF FOODS, WHEY
FAMILY OF DRIED FRUITS
CONFECTIONERY FAMILY
FAMILY OF VANILLA, OAK
EMPYREUMATIC FAMILY
FAMILY OF RED FRUITS, BLACK FRUITS
FAMILY OF CANDIED FRUITS
FAMILY OF SPICES
FAMILY OF UNDERGROWTH
ANIMAL FAMILY

These facilities are wonderful Bourgogne foundations of wine knowledge for any enthusiast of their wines. HIghly recommended on your next visit to the region. Will give you expanded insights.

Question: What about presently drinking 2011 Pouilly Fuisse from Louis Jadot?

Answer: This Chardonnay white from the Maconnaise is a solid forwardly drinking wine. Worth opening. Should show mature nutty flavours with some ripe tropical fruit but helped by leaner 2011 vintage citrus notes to help keep it still relatively fresh. Recommend drinking these up now and expect your bottles will provide a few interesting rounding texture surprises. Give them a good chill. Enjoy.

Followers of this Blog will realize your scribe’s admiration of Chablis Les Clos and also top white Burgundy from many climats but foremost St. Aubin, Meursault Perrieres, Corton Charlemagne & Chevalier-Montrachet. So fortunate to spend yet another week in mid-October 2023 studiously studying the vines and visiting many key wineries. Must say I am impressed with the current developments. Smart canopy management together with the inherent ability of old vines to adapt to climate changes and other clever techniques are all making a big difference. Some killer older wines too with one of the leaders tasted Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru from outstanding long aging vintage 2014 by top producer Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey clearly displaying why this is one of the greatest dry white wines of the world!

One of the many highlights this month was walking the vineyards of Montrachet & Chevalier-Montrachet on October 14 with knowledgeable geologist Francoise Vannier of Adama Vineyard Terroir for valuable insights. She is a fountain of research and soil analysis to help contribute to your own knowledge of these Grand Cru whites. Check her out for some geological history on winescholarguild.org and monocepage.com for more details. 

Francoise displayed many detailed charts as we walked the steep vineyards. One I particularly admired showed the subsoils here with a dense wide layer at 150 meters of key “Chassagne Limestone” in Montrachet. Also returned to the .2 hectare section of La Cabotte a special one as part of Chevalier-Montrachet Bouchard Pere holdings. Also at the very top you can examine the stratas of soil in fine detail to provide even more insights as to why these Grand Cru white Burgundies are so unique and display their special terroir.

Fascinating indeed. Soil studies provide astute insights into what makes these wines so unique and special.