Question: Which grape has adapted best to hotter climate change condtions?
Answer: That is a tough one. Don’t believe any one grape has been the most successful. There are lots of worthy candidates among those that didn’t quite get enough ripeness previously but now are thriving.
However, one of the grapes in the top group would be Barbera. This variety with large grapes and thin skins tends to overproduce so needs to have attentive pruning. Presently producing the best riper Barbera wines ever in Italy and plantings have expanded worldwide because of the helpful impressive underlining acidity always there for balance. Expect to see more Barbera wines in the future.
On September 21, 2023 the Vancouver Group of Eight held event #114 hosted by member Doug Loughran generously providing all the wines brilliantly matched with excellent choice food pairings prepared by Chef Kate Rice of At Your Table Catering.
We started with our aperitif 2000 DOM PERIGNON but not the current P2 one with longer fresh lees time but here more ready from that original release rich toasty brioche full textures with some ginger notes. We finished up with another classic 1990 CHATEAU D’YQUEM Sauternes the last of that magnificent trio each with their own distinctive vintage characteristics but this one produced by Lur Saluces is deliciously concentrated and luscious but only 12.7 abv & 126 grams/liter residual sugar so well balanced for the sweet vintage. Lovely now but will continue to develop more complex opulence but drier styling over the next many years.
The piece de resistance was 2019 Clos Vougeot (CV) from 8 different producers plus a mystery wine that turned out to be an older 2003 of Chateau De Latour. 2019 reds in the Cotes de Nuits have turned out rather well after a difficult flowering period start because of the warm dry high hours of sunshine in the Summer but fast development of sugars at harvest needed careful monitoring to keep higher alcohols down. It is the largest Clos (walled vineyard) area but a smaller AC commune of 50 hectares spread among 80-82 owners. The best part of the vineyard is just below and above the Vougeot chateau (rather than above the highway road). Another important factor confirmed by this tasting is that most producers here are conscientiously making much better quality wine in the last 15 years so it is less risky purchasing young Clos Vougeot.
CLOS VOUGEOT 2019 Wines all red Grand Cru tasted with a few comments:
1. DOMAINE ANNE GROS LE GRAND MAUPERTUI: Gros producers are confusing but this started as Domaine Francois Gros until 1988 then his daughter Anne joined him until 1995. Most expensive one here was served first as Doug Loughran wanted to show highest price not always indicative of top wine. Second darkest of First Flight. Lovely structured fruit with lighter Damy oak (often used for the whites) quite delicate and floral. Stylish & complex. Future.
2. DOMAINE DE LA VOUGERAIE: Boisset Family properties since 1999 but organic since 1998, approved Ecocert since 1989 and biodynamic from 2001 in 2 parcels. Lightest look of First Flight red fruits but creamy entry with some earthy intensity.
3. DOMAINE GROS FRERE ET SOEUR: Original Gros family since 1920 and this started 1963 division of Louis Gros to his 4 children. Gustave & Colette Gros combined to form this firm now run by Colette’s nephew Bernard Gros. Clearly way the darkest with powerful pure black cherries and less spicy.
4. FAIVELEY: Have 3 parcels (one Grand Maupertuis and two at the bottom) totalling 1.27 hectares but used no whole bunches. Very classic with a lot of concentrated depth and elegant vibrant freshness on the finish. Refined. Great food pairing here the wonderful rabbit course.
5. DOMAINE LAMARCHE: Energy from 3 parcels of Nicole Lamarche is lightest of Second Flight showing leafy greener statement rather muted. Not as intense as others but austere presently. Should develop.
6. DOMAINE TORTOCHOT: Chantal uses 25% whole clusters and you notice this in the open attractive aromas. Dense enough to approach earlier but body to age.
7. DOMAINE DROUHIN LAROZE: Have 2 parcels in middle and bottom. Experimenting with whole bunches but none used in their 2019 CV. Darkest deepest of 2nd Flight. Impressive big oaky fruit over 14 abv you notice on the finsh. Quality but almost too big as lacks elegance now. Future.
8. 2019 CHATEAU DE LATOUR: Big parcel of 5.48 hectares (11% of the AC) from Francois Labet & son Edouard makes truly Vins de Garde from older organic since 1992 vines. Follows strict pruning rather than green harvest. Picked from September 12 for 10 days. So intense and complex clear fav. They feel 2019 has more charm than 2018 but also power and advocates Burgundy wine from whole clusters ages better than destemmed grapes
9. 2003 CHATEAU DE LATOUR: Mystery blind tasting. Clearly old red Burgundy here. Browning look shows lots of age. Thrown a lot of fine sediment in the glass. Obviously much older than 2019. Lovely bouquet but not nearly the wine that 2019 is or is going to become in 20 years. Drink.
Question: How is the 2023 Champagne harvest going?
Answer: More or less over. Started early on the first days of September weekend in the southerly Aube region followed in the first week by the traditional Vendange. Reports show some of the heaviest grape bunches ever produced though initial yields were set at only 11,400 kilos/hectare but are coming in higher. INAO has increased the maximum reserves volume allowed from 8,000 kg/ha to 10,000. Therefore we are assured of a very large Champagne crop quantity in 2023. Overall the quality is yet to be determined. Good detailed link here on wine-searcher of September 11 by Caroline Henry.
Margaux is the largest geographic “Left Bank” appellation in the Medoc whose excellent wines are under the radar. The most properties listed in the 1855 Classification were from Margaux being 21 (now only 20). The recent leaders have been classy First Growth Chateau Margaux (high percentage around 75+% of Cabernet Sauvignon) and elegant Third Growth Chateau Palmer (high percentage around 50% of Merlot) both showing very different unique expressions of the region. Similarly the other classified properties have differing soils and terroirs that make it somewhat difficult to summarize a Margaux style when compared with the more textbook classic St. Julien cassis notes.
The Vancouver Group of Eight held their 113th event at Five Sails restaurant on September 12, 2023 to study four such Margaux properties each from two vintages.
The kitchen and service staff did a brilliant job of orchestrating this wonderful dinner. One of the thrilling highlights was the appearance of Sarah McCauley DipWSET longtime friend and experienced Corporate Wine Director for the expanding Glowbal Restaurant Group to look after our wines. Everything was perfectly done including a masterly job of extracting by Durand the very old 57-year-old cork of 1966 Brane Cantenac completely intact. Bravo Sarah!
The dinner started with 2009 DOM PERIGNON displaying a ripe rich exotic entry but a drier than expected finish – perhaps due to the lower than usual only 4 grams dosage. Lovely voluptuous yellow plums with a bold fleshy palate to match well with the diverse canapes.
CHÂTEAU D’ISSAN: Third Growth owned 50/50 by the Cruse Family & Jacky Lorenzetti of 124 acres growing 70% Cabernet Sauvignon & 30% Merlot producing 110,000 bottles plus 60,000 2nd wine Blason d’Issan.
2000: Elegant open cloves fruit with gentle mature entry that tails off on the finish. Good acidity balance with some charm that is drinking well presently. Will be interesting to compare this with the Malescot.
1996: Richer tannic year that is more lifted and solid. Better than expected. No rush. Should develop more Margaux-like bouquet and inviting smooth textures.
CHATEAU BRANE CANTENAC: Second Growth owned by the Lurton Family (Henri Lurton) since 1920 of 222 acres planted 65CS/30M/5CF with 140,000 bottles and 160,000 2nd wine Le Baron de Brane.
2005: Only 45% in the Grand Vin with 70% new oak of 51CS/41M/8CF. Impressive fresh deep lush cherries statement with lovely generous Merlot contributing some Chateau Palmer-like styling. Very good.
Major renovations in 2015 and vintages since then at a very high level indeed!
1966: Difficult period for the property when wines were too light and not showing 2nd growth depth. 1966 was their best vintage between 1961 and 1982 with Emile Peynaud helping vinification starting in 1981. Fair depth of colour left here after 57 years. Last bottle remaining from your scribe and though better younger still shows lovely Graves-like aromatics with fading flowers. Given 90 points by tougher scoring Neal Martin in Vinous as recently as in 2019 “Burgundy-like vigorous red fruit”. Refreshing with the duck duo course boost of flavours. So different from everything else served but a delightful old wine experience.
CHÂTEAU GISCOURS: Third Growth from 1656 owned by Albada-Jelgersma Family (since 1995) of 198 acres 55CS/40M/5CF producing 325,000 bottles & 65,000 2nd wine La Sirene de Giscours. Managed well by Alexander Van Beek since 1998 resulting in denser planting and more CS from varied soils on three hills with west side Poujeau gravel warmer for CS, BelAir cooler for climate change, and main plateau (Cantelaude). Great 1966 & 1970 and better from 2015 on.
2005: Fuller powerful coarser energetic style with really solid fruit from that outstanding vintage 2005 again stellar as it was for Brane Cantenac.
1995: Going through changes with more Merlot (over 50%) in the blends in a bad period for this property even though using 100% new oak. Nevertheless bright forest floor fruit here but with a dry ready finish. Expected nothing but the surprise of the night. Encouraging property to follow who have had difficulty getting a handle on obtaining highest quality on their many diverse unique soils.
CHÂTEAU MALESCOT ST.-EXUPERY: Third Growth of the Zuger Family (Jean-Luc Zuger) of 58 acres 50CS/35M/10CF/5PV producing 120,000 bottles plus 60,000 2nd wine La Dame de Malescot.
2009: Later picked September 29-October 16 using 51CS/35M/8CF/4PV with 50% new oak and Michel Rolland consulting for a ripe “fruit bomb” with full intense cassis almost St. Julien-like. Opulent but perhaps showing the 2009 vintage style more than the Margaux terroir. No rush. Recent vintages are showing more finesse with better definition and are recommended.
2000: Spicy sweeter supple with earthy figgy plum notes. Both Malescot wines are quite weighty for the often lighter AC style. Much more body than the d’Issan 2000. Drinking well presently on a plateau of enjoyment like many 2000s. Lean venison was grilled at a lower 275F to remain moist with an added bonus of fresh Chanterelles. Good pairing as is the sweeter meat braised oxtail.
1988 CHÂTEAU RIEUSSEC SAUTERNES: Challenging for Wine of the Night is this always dark coloured honey wine property with electric 1988 best acidity from the impressive 88-90 trio. The vibrant tension really lifts this citrus mandarin mineral charming complex Sauternes. Memorable matching dessert. Outstanding.
Question: Will we be seeing more wine bottles weighing less?
Answer: Certainly lots of movement in that direction. Among the leaders are swroundtable.org who are launching “SWR (Sustainable Wine Roundtable) Bottle Weight Accord.” The present goal is for their retail members to reduce before the end of 2026 the current average weight of 750 ml still wine bottles from 550 grams to 420. Yes, wine bottles will be trending in the future to be lighter weight.
