Climate change extremes seem to be resulting in more bush and forest fires causing smoke taint in the grapes and maybe the wines. It seems to be now a global issue with more fires and smoke reported from so many regions including Australia, South Africa and California. It seems to be difficult to pin down the possible effects of grapevine smoke exposure in the wine made from them even though spectroscopic tests and other often delayed lab techniques are helping somewhat. For example Napa Valley has lots of recent experience with both the
2017 & 2020 vintages suffering from this dilemma. As proprietor Doug Shafer has stated “smoke taint is a tricky adversary” and not knowing when it might turn up later on in his Shafer Vineyards 2020 vintage decided not to harvest anything. What an agonizing heart break decision to make to ensure only the highest quality. Bravo!

Fires and smoke have been an issue in the Okanagan vineyards of British Columbia for some time. The first major one was back in 2003 which came so very close to the vineyards of CedarCreek in Kelowna then owned by the Fitzpatrick family who discarded some grapes. It was even written up in the Wine Spectator on October 11 posted here advising that “only four of the Okanagan Valley’s 54 wineries were evacuated; one St. Hubertus, lost its winemaking facility and tasting room.” 2003 was also a very bad year for wildfires in Australia and extreme temperatures in France including Bordeaux. More recently 2015 and bad but early fires 2017 followed by 2018, 2019, 2020 have seen more frequent Summer fires and resulting smoke threats. University of British Columbia are continuing to study the matter and are always looking for best possible answers including a protective spray to
reduce the volatile phenols measured in smokey grapes. Stay tuned.

Over the last months your scribe has tried many 2003 reds from the Okanagan. The heat and high growing degree days total of 2003 was beneficial to the grapes ripening and the length of the growing season also helped a lot. Some seem perhaps a touch smoky but that may be because of the use by some wineries of heavily charred wood barrels (and American oak in those days). Most were delightful drinking with a depth of clean ripe fruit helped by bottle age. The star for me is 2003 SANDHILL SYRAH Small Lots Program of 248 cases from Phantom Creek
Vineyard at 14.5 abv released at $29.99 signed on the back label by grape grower Richard Cleave and winemaker Howard Soon. No wonder as this wine won Red Wine of the Year at the 2005 Canadian Wine Awards with the 2006 Canadian Wine Annual by Wine Access write-up stating: “leaves no doubt that the southern Okanagan is a shiny new platform for syrah. Crossing the aromatics of northern Rhone with the beefcake expression of Australian shiraz, it is full-bodied, dense yet elegant black red. Expect ripe black cherry, fig, black olive, Okanagan “garrigue” and pepper on the nose and finish. Some heat, and excellent to outstanding length.” Well put and still has intense complex flavours singing with a braised local lamb shank!

Two other close runners-up are 2003 Quails’ Gate Pinot Noir Family Reserve (first vintage of winemaker Grant Stanley – now at Spearhead – arriving in time for the crush with departing Ashley Hooper) matched with a chicken & peppers recipe of New York Chef David Pasternack + another big top 2003 Syrah from Burrowing Owl Vineyards also paired with a lamb shank & versatile farro. This wine won in 2005 a Lieutenant Governor’s Award of Excellence in BC Wine. Well done. If you are lucky drink up some memorable 2003 BC reds!

Question: I enjoyed a not to be forgotten pinot gris wine at a lauded restaurant in Budapest during my 2019 visit but can’t remember the name. Can you help?

Answer: I will try. Can’t assist with the producer. However, the grape variety was undoubtedly Szurkebarat the local name for pinot gris meaning “grey monk”. The best wines are produced from grapes grown on the northern slopes of Lake Balaton near Badacsony on ideal volcanic soils containing chalk. My best guess would be that your memorable wine was named Badacsonyi Szurkebarat. A good one! Hope this might help.

Since the passing earlier this month of Steven Spurrier, the revered wine mentor, your scribe has been reflecting back fondly on some of my personal experiences with him. Used to connect with him often at Vinexpo and the London Wine Trade Fair where the IWFS Wines Committee met annually to deliberate the updating of our Vintage Chart. Steven was always so personable and inquisitive about the latest news on the Canadian wine scene and so helpful with ideas and connections directed towards its progress. Five years ago on August 25, 2015 (reported here as BC Bottle Shock on August 31, 2015) Steven was honoured by the BC Wine Institute BCWI (now named Wine Growers British Columbia WGBC) on his visit hosting the inaugural Judgment of BC wines. He also attended all others that followed including the final fifth one on October 29, 2019 (reported here November 4, 2019). Thanks Steven so much for your inspiring help to our evolving quality wine industry. Much appreciated. Chardonnay was featured and assessed in a global context with a blind tasting at the first & fifth events. International chardonnays took the top 5 positions in 2015 but BC bounced back with the top two just four years later. The vines have matured plus using the know how experience learned for both the vineyard and the cellar has resulted in much better Chardonnay produced everywhere in BC. Why even perfect 100/100 scores have been given by one experienced wine journalist for consecutive vintages of Checkmate Artisanal Winery for their 2015 & 2016 Little Pawn Chardonnay.

First a confession. I am an unabashed fan and frequent drinker of chardonnay. It is a perfect pairing with my frequent seafood menu of choice. Many decades of loyal following and drinking of Chablis & white Burgundy through other ABC contrarians and pre-mox concerns. Now there are so many well balanced complex examples from around the world. From Hamilton Russell in South Africa to Kumeu River in New Zealand. From Tolpuddle Vineyard in Tasmania to the exciting new breed of “freshness” all over California.

Across Canada chardonnay is indeed on a steep incline of improvement. Many value choices in BC led by somewhat under the radar Noble Ridge Vineyard & Winery in Okanagan Falls of Jim & Leslie D’Andrea. Your scribe has been following them since their initial land purchase in 2001 plus another 10 acres addition in 2006 resulting in a total of 34 acres (24 for vines & winery) all overlooking Vaseaux Lake. The soils are glacial fluvial deposits of sand, gravel and rock. Must applaud the most conscientious job they are doing of trying to make the best premium wines possible from their distinct sites. This was reinforced to me on a most instructive long visit with them and winemaker Benoit Gauthier at the winery on June 13, 2018. I had the opportunity to taste all the barrels (including chardonnay 2017) with lots of interesting dialogue between us on our mutual impressions of styles. Most impressed by their quality and the many differences shown. This year I have opened their three 2017 chards to study again now in bottle paired with steelhead salmon dishes:

1. 2017 Noble Ridge Reserve Chardonnay $28.99 with 355 cases harvested October 20 at highest Brix of 24, total acidity 6 and 14.6 ABV. Whole cluster pressed as all are but cooler fermentation in stainless followed by 14 months in French oak (20% new) with no malolactic fermentation. Rich full with nice combo of citrus & tropical fruit but quite a bit of oak showing and some heat on the finish. Reminds me of old style top California.
   
2. 2017 Noble Knights Powers Vintage Chardonnay $38.99 with 94 cases harvested almost a month earlier on September 26 (using only Clone 76 and not a blend with the usual Clone 95) at lowest Brix of 22.6 yet lowest TA of 5.4 and 13.7 ABV. Fermented in neutral French oak with 5 months batonnage and another 7 months on lees with partial malo. Well balanced fresh vibrant tension with a touch of class. Others thought so too as one of only three Canadian wineries to win GOLD at 2020 Chardonnay du Monde 27th competition. Congrats!
   
3. 2017 King’s Ransom Chardonnay $49.99 with 113 cases harvested in October at 23.6 Brix yet highest TA 6.2 and 14.6 ABV. Barrel fermented in 100% new oak for 14 months with 50% malo. This is a big more Montrachet-like bouquet and especially the smooth textures but with a distinctive Okanagan Falls sub-region terroir flair. Excellent energy balance here. Developing the complexity. Well done.

The talented team have a handle on this variety for bubbles too as their brand “The One” vintage sparkling using a majority of the chardonnay grape in the mix with pinot noir is in high demand. Admire how Benoit is not making chardonnay to a formula but cleverly tweaking the wines to best advantage. For example the use of only partial and no malo to retain the best acidity levels in the chardonnay. Really like how each vintage being released shows improvement. The 2018 Reserve was harvested earlier on October 14 at lower Brix 23 and a 2019 Stony Knoll from an unknown chardonnay clone planted in 1999 harvested September 20 at 22.5 Brix is 94% stainless fermented + 6% in one year old barrels at 13.4 ABV a bargain at $22.99. Enjoy those refreshing crisper apple and pear notes. Appropriate gold lettered NOBLE on an attractive new black label. Don’t miss trying these remarkable chardonnays and judge for yourself!

Question: What is wine MUST?

Answer: Must is the term used to describe the liquid in the fermenting tank which can consist of only the grape juice (usually for white wine) or the juice plus the grape skins (for red wine).

Currently your scribe spends many hours most days online hopefully inspiring others about the fascination of food & wine plus always seeking to learn more myself. My new normal is a plethora of webinars scheduled on the vast array of quality wines now available from around the world. It is challenging just trying to keep up to date on the many new current releases. Presently I am addicted to the marvellous work of 67 Pall Mall with their wide selection of live streaming programs plus their later replay on YouTube. Already this morning have participated in their Pomerol masterclass by Jane Anson featuring top chateaux from 1998, 2009, and 2015 which followed earlier ones on 1996 Pauillac wines & 1990 First Growth Bordeaux among others. All highly recommended. Obviously many aficionados of food & wine are also impressed with their dedicated work as this popularity is resulting in an expected April launch of their own 7 days a week TV channel now filming in 4K. Besides wine tastings many of us are missing the camaraderie of sharing meals in restaurants. We frequently are seeing more online events (usually on Zoom) enjoying within your own bubble the same food and wine for dinner as your friends. Certainly some joy can result from this effort of keeping in touch and sharing impressions on the culinary dishes and paired wines.

This latest report is from March 2 on the Vancouver Tastevin group of Burgundy lovers with food from New Fishport Seafood Bistro. An ambitious undertaking by talented Executive Chef Sam Leung and his brigade with many courses prepared for us to plate at home and where necessary to follow detailed reheating instructions. Even alternate choices were available for pescatarians or to share with your partner. All very tasty indeed and a lot of pleasurable fun. Cherish the still good value St.-Aubin whites that are available with here the 2013 Domaine Marc Morey Premier Cru Charmois but sulphur notes + quite reductive initially but improved marvellously with decanting and further airing. Pure delight with the innovative Conch, delicious King Crab & lobster dishes. Also continue to admire those structured outstanding 2005 vintage red Burgundy that always seem to need more cellaring to come together. This Gevrey AC 2005 from old vines by Patrice Rion is another one that is drinkable already but still showing that rather typically harder edged structure of this top commune. Presently prefer the easier more accessible village wines from say Pernand or Savigny among several others. Makes for a wonderful evening of hospitality in shared dining. Suggest you give it a try one night among your IWFS friends. If you are already doing so with friends and/or family please post a few words of insight about them.