Question: What is your opinion on the best red Burgundy vintage between 2016 and 2023?

Answer: Interesting question as all of Burgundy is on a “hot streak”. Lots of vintage guides out there to help you choose your favourite year. In that eight vintage time range the dependable IWFS Chart only gives a top 7 rating to 2020 (both Cote de Beaune red & Cote de Nuits red) plus 2019 Cote de Nuits red – with the 2019 Cote de Beaune red at 6. Your scribe is bullish on the 2019 vintage for red Burgundy. Admire the ripe fruit that comes with better acidity and impressive structure. Some helpful localized August light rainfall in 2019 helped revive the vines for a September harvest of balanced fresh fruit – especially in Morey St. Denis. Also impressed how during August some quality producers eliminated the “burnt grapes” from heat spikes using a late green harvest technique before the Vendange started the next month.

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On June 4, 2024 Alvin Nirenberg hosted with efficient backroom help from Kim Mead (both key IWFS Vancouver Branch wine aficionados & educators) an excellent tasting/dinner of 9 vintages of historic Chateau Montelena Estate Cabernet. Shown is a detailed history overview of the property that they prepared for us. Your scribe has some 50 years history with this property back to the early seventies on several visits for wine tastings and picnics on Jade Lake with GM Lee Paschich (and wife Helen) – also owners of Shades in Calistoga producing bamboo wooden window coverings. Ironic that their renowned 1973 Chardonnay produced by famous recently deceased winemaker Mike Grgich winning the 1976 Judgment of Paris used mostly Sonoma grapes about 1/2 from Belle Terre Vineyards (Alexander Valley) & 1/3 Bacigalupi Vineyards (Russian River Valley) – two designated vineyards later pioneered in the decade used by winemaker Dick Arrowood at Chateau St. Jean. Chateau Montelena was mainly red grape focused even in the early days with the oldest Zin vines being planted in 1972. Cabernet Sauvignon soon became the key variety with the first vintage in 1978 under Jerry Luper and Bo Barrett. A most important factor in their success was that the vines were planted on St. George rootstock (not the UC Davis recommended AXR1) so when the latter planted by so many wineries became susceptible to phylloxera in California during the eighties and early nineties requiring replanting the Chateau Montelena older vines were thriving. They made outstanding wines even in the rainy weather conditions of 1983 year and an excellent 1986 one followed by star vintages in 1991, 1994, and 1997.

We started with the 2018 CHATEAU MONTELENA NAPA CHARDONNAY 13.9 abv that brought back fond memories of their wonderful 1988 from 30 years earlier. Admire how they are able to bring liveliness with subtlety to the lemony stone fruits from 10 months in French oak. No malolactic fermentation helps preserve that delightful acidity. This was followed by 9 vintages of the Estate Cab served oldest to youngest with the mystery wine being the 1977. A few brief impressions:

1992 CHATEAU MONTELENA ESTATE CABERNET: No abv listed Marked by two hot August heat waves. Not big bodied but more elegant styling. Still vibrant with lovely menthol notes.

1993 CHATEAU MONTELENA ESTATE CABERNET: 13.5 Variable cooler weather made for mixed bag vintage. Looks and tastes the most mature of the first flight. Definitely drier but better matched with the delicious rabbit terrine course.

1995 CHATEAU MONTELENA ESTATE CABERNET: 14.1 Rainy early on supplied needed water reserves later during Summer heat spikes. Less intense than the 1994 tasted last year but fresher sweeter suppleness impresses. Bouquet opened in the glass with airing and warming showing riper menthol. Slight fav of first flight.

1996 CHATEAU MONTELENA ESTATE CABERNET: 13.5 Long more difficult flowering resulted in a smaller crop. Some extreme heat spikes in July & August. Variable ripeness. Younger full bodied with earthy notes but seems to combine both ripe and less ripe greener fruit. More time might help resolve it. Like the big solid fruit impressive statement of this wine. Does 1996 Left Bank Bordeaux have better ripe fruit consistency?

Four main impressions from the first flight:

-Well defined Cabernet Sauvignon varietal depth
-Similar styling with balance being the key
-Vintage differences but more subtle -Young still primary fruit and less tertiary development -Differences show by vintage but rather subtle

1977 CHATEAU MONTELENA ESTATE CABERNET: 13.4 Mystery wine seems older with more tertiary development. Intense flavours but shows the second drought year conditions. Drink up.

1997 CHATEAU MONTELENA ESTATE CABERNET: 14 Larger yields after smaller ones in 1995 & 1996 but crop thinning and canopy management helped some wineries. Here the dark superb cassis minty fruit is concentrated yet charming. Showing brilliantly.

2000 CHATEAU MONTELENA ESTATE CABERNET: 13.9 Selection critical in 2000 but a well done 97% Cab Sauv + 3% Cab Franc blend. Easy lighter accessible more delicate drinking currently. Singing with the tasty beef tenderloin & porcini demi glace.

2003 CHATEAU MONTELENA ESTATE CABERNET: 13.8 (believe it is higher) Big full rich black currants yet approachable. Underrated. Better than most Napa Cabs in 2003 with an encouraging future ahead of it.

2004 CHATEAU MONTELENA ESTATE CABERNET: 14.1 Smaller clusters earlier harvest giving a powerful classic style. Admirable concentration with balance and depth. Lush already but has a bright future. As Alvin put it so well” this is a much better crafted second flight from warmer years showing weight with balance & tension”.

A footnote for the remarkable tiny production (less than 1000 cases) of Berenice Lurton’s (family since 1971) 1986 CHATEAU CLIMENS of 100% Semillon concentrated botrytis with elegance.

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Question: Confused about how the soil in which grape vines grow affects your perception of the taste in the resulting wine. Can you please simplify it for me?

Answer: A very complicated question that can’t be answered fully here. Also your scribe is not a qualified geologist. However there are several outstanding detailed articles by Alex Maltman on the subject in The World of Fine Wine – an invaluable publication resource for wine lovers! Four excellent ones are “Tuff, tufa, tufo, and tuffeau: A tangled world” here, “LIMESTONE: Holy grail or charismatic illusion?” here. “FLINT: a striking story” here and “CLAY: What it is and why it matters here“.

The first explains well about TUFF (volcanic) and TUFA (calcareous) plus the grape Greco di TUFO. The second one explains well calcareous soils from CHALK in Champagne, LIMESTONE in Meursault, and MARL in Chablis. The last two are so educational on understanding better about FLINT & CLAY. Highly recommend these insightful articles that will help you a lot.

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Another interesting horizontal wine tasting/dinner spotlighting the 2009 Bordeaux vintage was held on May 27, 2024 by La Commanderie de Bordeaux at Boulevard in Vancouver. In fact all eleven wines served were from that year starting with the 2009 PHILIPPONNAT Champagne and the 2009 Chateau de RAYNE VIGNEAU Sauternes. The exquisite starting bubbles were the Grand Blanc Extra-Brut using 100% “Premiere Press”, from 100% Premiers et Grands Crus Cote des Blancs vineyards, and 100% Chardonnay. The production was 19722 bottles with 4.25 g/l dosage and this bottle disgorged in July 2019 was lovely fresh round creamy stone fruits with minerality. The Sauternes was rich but with a lighter delicacy than expected from the 20% Sauvignon Blanc in the blend and earlier picking of 80% Semillon (September 29 to October 16) showing fine balance for current use and aging.

The nine Bordeaux reds were well organized into three flights of Right Bank (two St. Emilion & one Pomerol), Pauillac (all Fifth Growths), and St. Julien (two Second Growths & a Fourth). 2009 is an extraordinary vintage and a hot twin comparison with the following more classic 2010 year. Your scribe with knowledgeable baggage was expecting 2009 to deliver ripe rich concentrated fruit with some higher alcohols but more in a softer delivery like 2003 and 1990. However, the surprise was the deep balanced intense sweet fruit on the Left Bank wines still in an impressive primary stage with a wonderful future ahead of them to develop very well indeed. It seems that at 15 years of age the top properties are under-appreciated for their exciting longevity. A few brief comments on the flights:

2009 CHATEAU L’ARROSEE: An old fav of mine with that remarkable 1961 and as recently reported on this Blog on April 8, 2024 a delightful 1962. It has disappeared as its own wine since the purchase in 2013 by Domaine Clarence Dillon and is now a part of Chateau Quintus. Here 44Merlot/28CabSauv/28CabFranc show in tasting this blend at only 13 abv in a paler rim and elegant earlier maturing example.

2009 CHATEAU MONBOUSQUET: Darkest of first flight showing the concentration possible from the low yields of overripe mostly Merlot (60% with the rest mainly Cab Franc 30/CabSauv 10) at 14.2 abv in a modern almost Napa-like powerful style. A bit rustic. Almost too much of a good jammy thing.

2009 CHATEAU LA CROIX ST. -GEORGES: Ripe powerful Pomerol of 94% Merlot/6% Cab Franc at nearly 15 abv from gravelly soils captures the opulent softness of the year with those typical iron notes terroir interest. Improved with the excellent foie gras pate course.

2009 CHATEAU GRAND PUY LACOSTE: Outstanding Pauillac property with that superb 1982 & developing 1986 was less successful in the hot 2003 vintage. However here their pure 2009 of 80% Cab Sauv is a balanced medium bodied supple elegant beauty drinking on a harmonious plateau. Delicious.

2009 CHATEAU PONTET CANET: Darkest deepest of second flight. Open nose of fresh primary cigar box cedar fruit with depth. Brilliant structure with amazing balance and tannins for the dense powerful Pauillac bio fruit hinting of complexity yet to come with further aging. Admire the future of this one. My fav.

2009 CHATEAU PEDESCLAUX: Darker than GPL. Third Pauillac is less known and less celebrated but on a big upcurve with a modern accessible attractive style using better selection. Watch out for this value from a true Pauillac terroir. Best red with a different tasty matching of Ling Cod fish but with a robust chorizo red pepper Basquaise sauce.

2009 CHATEAU GRUAUD LAROSE: Paler edge and lighter than expected but a lovely St. Julien definition. Fine wine in a floral earthy forwardly from 68CS/32M but prefer my older complex bigger more classic 1982 & 1986. Possibly better 2009 bottles out there or presently in a dumb stage. Slightly disappointing in a tough group.

2009 CHATEAU ST. PIERRE: Surprisingly dark with lots of massive spicy full fruit showing graphite. Under-appreciated property as was the 1985 reported here on May 6, 2024. Recommend this value.

2009 LEOVILLE LAS CASES: Top Second Growth St. Julien lives up again to the high reputation. Darkest look with intense colour. Powerful and very refined. More luscious supple with fine silky tannins and showing more attractively presently than the backward Pontet Canet. Both have an unlimited future. Close to a virtual tie for WOTN. PC & LLC plus charming GPL all a perfect pairing with the choice prime striploin course.

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Question: What is this new treatment that I am hearing about for protecting wine grapes against powdery mildew without the use of chemicals?

Answer: There is a new system being tested for mildew at Vineland Estates in Ontario Canada that hopefully will show success against this ever increasing problem in the warmer vineyards around the world. This new sustainable approach combines 3 basic elements of UV Light, Hydrogen Peroxide, and Ozone on the grape vines. Detailed article by CBC Canada updated on May 28 is linked here.

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