Everyone has their own favourite local pizza place. Your scribe on his wine & food travels is always searching out for recommendations for the very best pizza. In Vancouver the champion Via Tevere PIzzeria is now being challenged by many others. Wineries are becoming popular pizza outlets too. In the Okanagan The Oven at Upper Bench Estate Winery has impressive pizza topped with cheeses from their own creamery and cooked in a custom made Forno Bravo oven. Fond memories of delightful “oven on site pizza” paired with excellent Old Vines Cab Sauv with founder Rick Small at Woodward Canyon Winery in the Walla Walla Valley, Washington State.

The best commercial outlets often try to follow the authentic Neapolitan (“Napoletana”) Pizza Italian STG certification. They usually succeed with the round shape, ingredients (00flour, salt, yeast & water), hand stretched dough, and baked in a wood burning oven but less compliant on many other regulations such as temperature (485C or higher) and middle thickness of dough at a very thin .3 centimeters (about .1 inches). Difficult.

Homemade Pizza can take many days of dough preparation, close attention to detail on the toppings, and way less production. As a result it can rival or sometimes even be better than commercial pizza. Pleased to report such a wonderful culinary experience for eight of us last month at a friend’s home with an outstanding six course pizza dinner each one carefully orchestrated from the long leavening prep of the dough, different toppings carefully chosen, and perfectly cooked in a wood burning ALFA PIZZA oven – Made in Italy. Can be done. So impressive and delicious!

Italian wine pairings were so appropriate and well chosen. Started with an aged 2015 GRECO CAMPANIA “MASTRO” IGT value from MASTROBERARDINO AT 12.5 abv followed by a different wine matching for each pizza. Some ideas for you to try:

1. CACIO E PEPE: Pecorino, Parmigiano Reggiano. toasted crushed black pepper, Pine nuts, asparagus, EVOO. 2014 ROERO ARNEIS DOCG VIETTI 13 Lovely mature pairing.

2. THE BEST OF THE WEST COAST: Goat Cheese, Parmigiano Reggiano, Pine nuts, Peas, Dungeness Crab & Smoked Salmon, EVOO. 2010 TENORES BADDE NIGOLOSU IGT a big Romangia Rosso of Cannonau grapes unfiltered from Sardinia by Tenute Dettori with no wood used and making a powerful 17 abv dried fruits pruney earthy statement.

3. MUSHROOM MEDLEY WITH TRUFFLES: Bufala, Ricotta, Parmigiano Reggiano, Portobello, King Oyster, Oyster, Shiitake, Porcini, Shimeji, Truffle tapenade, white truffle oil. 2014 BARBARESCO MONTESTEFANO RISERVA – More consistent Barbaresco vintage in 2014 than in Barolo showing young vibrant fruit.

4. MEDITERRANEAN: Mascarpone, Parmigiano Reggiano, Pesto, Pine Nuts, Olives, Capers, Artichokes , and sun dried tomatoes. 2012 BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO CANALICCHIO DI SOPRA is brilliant drinking so well from a top producer Salad Interlude.

5. PIEROGI (OR PEROGI): Danish Blue Cheese, Parmigiano Reggiano, Sour Cream, Red peppers, Roasted Potatoes, Alder Smoked Bacon. 2004 BAROLO PODERI ALDO CONTERNO with lots of classy Nebbiolo styling at age 20 on a lovely current drinking plateau.

6. CHORIZO: Smoked Cheddar, Wine Marinated Chorizo, Caramelized onions, Portobello Mushrooms, Sun Dried Tomatoes.

2012 PRIMITIVO DI MANDURIA RISERVA DIONYSOS MASSERIA SURANI PUGLIA FROM TOMMASI big 15 abv primitivo perfect call with the spicy chorizo pizza.

2016 LORNANO LE BANDITE CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA is 100% Sangiovese with 12 months in oak barrels well balanced from an excellent vintage.

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Question: Your thoughts on the results of the 2024 Lieutenant Governor’s British Columbia Wine Awards for this year?

Answer: There was no Lt. Gov. BC Wine Awards in 2024 but Okanagan Wine Festivals successfully carried on with the rebranded 2024 British Columbia Wine Awards. They have done a stellar job under the excellent leadership of General Manager Kimberly Hundertmark and her team. Your scribe has been an enthusiastic long-time judge of this competition but was conflicted out this year by wine events in Burgundy The results are just out using a change in format from the previous medals to a BC TOP 50 (linked here) based on the judge’s highest average scores. 42 wineries were included in these impressively diverse results led by Wine Of The Year 2022 Cellar Series Gamay from Dirty Laundry Vineyard. Check these wines out!

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Seaport City is a popular upscale Chinese Seafood Restaurant in Vancouver producing amazing high quality cuisine with some good value dishes. It was recognized as a Bib Gourmand in the 2023 Michelin Guide. Your scribe has enjoyed several lunches there and was keen to attend an overbooked Dim Sum event in one of their private dining rooms “VIP 1” especially well organized by IWFS Vancouver on Sunday June 23, 2024. The setting is elegant with an outside window view and large round tables covered with white table cloths.

The Menu chosen was really well thought out with a variety of special dishes matched with six appropriate wines from around the world that worked:

SEGURA VIUDAS RESERVA BRUT METODO TRADICIONAL A dependable citrus flavoured value Spanish Cava Sparkling aperitif with 10g/l dosage

CHATEAU MUSAR ROSE 2019 “MUSAR JEUNE” A crisp dry unoaked Cinsault-Mourvedre blend at 13 abv from Bekaa Valley in Lebanon works with the mushroom noodles

TUNELLA PINOT GRIGIO 2021 FRIULI COLLI ORIENTALI Fresh lighter pinot gris at 13 abv provides wonderful refreshment of the palate with most of the Chinese Dim Sum dishes – especially the two different delicious more delicate steamed dumplings

SANCERRE LA MERCY-DIEU 2020 DOMAINE BAILLY-REVERDY Richer riper fuller bodied Sauvignon Blanc at higher alcohol of 14 is impressive but less refreshing than usual in this vintage. Better holding up with the sea cucumber & scallop dishes.

TANTALUS RIESLING 2022 OKANAGAN VALLEY from South East Kelowna slopes is an off dry true variety with balancing acidity at 12.9 abv. Perfectly paired with green beans and minced pork. Also outstandingly complex is the heritage vines dating back to 1978 in their OLD VINES RIESLING treasured bottle.

PFAFFENHEIM PINOT GRIS STEINERT 2012 GRAND CRU Older full bodied mature Alsace wine with residual sugar at 13.5 abv pairs best with the full flavoured sweeter Chinese dishes including the taro root and particularly the ribs.

Our lunch started with a platter of sensational mixed appetizers that included a magnificent crab cake with pieces of water chestnuts for texture, tender sliced small scallops, and deep fried dumplings filled with taro root vegetable. Most perfectly cooked sweet tender yet crunchy green beans ever experienced where the norm is often either undercooked hard too green flavoured or overcooked with a limp soft texture. Every dish was of such a high calibre that it made an amazing culinary event. A special thanks for those tasty unique mushroom noodles!

Congrats to the chef and his brigade. Also to the Robertsons for another successful IWFS function plus a well deserved Appreciation Certificate awarded to Susan Man and Garfield Marshall for their exemplary experienced ordering input and restaurant close connections in bringing this memorable Dim Sum to fruition.

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Question: What about the results of the 2024 Decanter World Wine Awards?

Answer: Yes, waited to reply to your question until the results were announced today. Also there was a most insightful Zoom seminar today about this excellent Competition held by Wine Scholar Guild with Andrew Jefford, Caro Maurer MW, and James Tidwell MS discussing the outstanding judging process. Also Logistics head Simon Wright on how they superbly organize some 18000+ entries with 4 bottles each for a total of over 72000 bottles. Totally amazing most well run credible event.

The Awards are now up on the Decanter website including the Top 50 Best in Show. Pinot Noir from Tasmania were impressive! Two Cru Beaujolais 2023 from the same producer of Domaine de Colonat made it with quite different styles according to Andrew of Morgon Les Charmes “exuberant fruit” and Moulin a Vent Les Greneriers “balanced, complex, meaty” plus a Retsina Kechris “Tear of the Pine” from Greece. 

Canada did well led by an Estate Annapolis Valley Chardonnay 2021 from Nova Scotia by Blomidon Estate Winery. Lots of British Columbia recognitions led by Golds for Church and State 2020 Roussanne, Unsworth Vineyards 2021 Pinot Noir, Blasted Church Vineyards 2022 Small Blessings Sauvignon Blanc Semillon, Phantom Creek Estate 2020 PVV Cuvee Red, CedarCreek Estate Winery 2022 Estate Riesling – Value too!, and Nk’Mip 2022 Qwam Qwmt Icewine Riesling.

Great work by Decanter. Check out the just released results.

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As followers of this Blog are already aware, your scribe is a big admirer of Nebbiolo aged wines from Piedmont. A particular favourite is the consistent quality produced by the amazing Societa Agricola Cooperativa of Produttori del Barbaresco. Several wonderful insightful visits to the winery and vineyards over the years with the master Aldo Vacca, the most recent one during the exciting October harvest of the marvellous 2019 vintage. Lots of references including recommendations to buy their Crus 2013 (value Paje) on July 18, 2018 linked here, and Crus 2016 on November 3, 2021 here.

Lots of avid collectors in this British Columbia marketplace and one of them is knowledgeable Joe Chaput (capably assisted by cheese expert Allison Spurrell of Les Amis du Fromage) who kindly organized on June 12, 2024 a Tasting & Dinner superbly spotlighting the 2009 vintage at 15 years of age.

A memorable evening included a detailed background information booklet and wines paired with an outstanding menu of thoughtfully chosen food courses to show them to best advantage. 2009 has a general reputation of being a hot accessible forward vintage showing riper fruit and lower acidities but with quality tannins. The wines showed better structure than expected and were aging more slowly. Approachable now but no rush for the Crus. Joe arranged the following tasting order recommended to him by Aldo:

2009 DOCG BLEND: Big production 240,000 bottles (mainly Ovello). Most accessible one with spicy notes. 14.5 abv.

2009 PORA: “The Dolce Vita Wine” Easy smooth and softer style. Lovely now.

2009 RIO SORDO: “The Silky One” Less open reluctant nose with some “silk” textures.

2009 ASILI: “A Word On Its Own” Consistent top vineyard especially showing impressive structured refined intense complexity in 2009. Outstanding balance. Singing with the exquisite rabbit course in EVOO.

2009 OVELLO: “The Tomboy” Energetic four square well selected grapes from largest 50 acres Cru vineyard on a drinkable plateau now.

2009 MOCCAGATTA: “Pristine Beauty” Seems lighter and less ripe with floral notes that are less common in this hotter year. Even better paired with the delicious pasta course.

2009 RABAJA: “Pure Breed” This high altitude vineyard is usually my favourite. Open but slightly disappointing in 2009 with a late picked roasted baked character to the fruit. Seems like it would have benefited by being picked earlier. Waiting on star years 2013, surprising 2014 (less rain than Barolo), 2015, and concentrated 2016.

2009 MONTESTEFANO: “The Barolo Of Barbaresco” Another fav that always gets the sun from full south facing vineyards. Full rich and heavier in 2009. Prefer much more the elegance of the classic 1996 in magnum and the outstanding potential of 2019.

2009 PAJE: “Evergreen” Small Cru vineyard of ever improving quality due to its cooler microclimate in times of global climate change. Fresh fruit is successful here and even more so in 2013.

2009 MONTEFICO: The Academic” Lesser known excellent vineyard is producing powerful tannic wines with tension that develop well with aging. Well structured with good potential here and shows it matched with the special lightly smoked Traeger BBQ Prime Rib.

Super finale with still developing classic vintage 1996 MONTESTEFANO in Magnum, 130th Anniversary CHINATO, and aged GRAPPA.

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