Question: Update please on the latest wine “appellations” in BC?
Answer: Yes, British Columbia is developing a respected origin system to help identify where the grapes are grown and the wine is produced. There are nine general geographic zones (GI) in the province but now 6 important specific geographic indications (sub-GI). Admirably, wherever possible they are using natural features to define and fix the boundaries of each sub-GI including for the latest one just announced of Golden Mile Slopes. It joins Golden Mile Bench, Naramata Bench, Okanagan Falls, Skaha Bench, and Cowichan Valley. Lots more possible sub-GI presently under consideration including: Lake Country, Kelowna (both East Kelowna Slopes & South Kelowna Slopes), and Summerland (Lakeshore, Valley, and Benches). Stay tuned!
With current classified Bordeaux continuing to skyrocket in price it is smart to check out other less publicized value properties producing high quality wine. Excellent Cru Bourgeois Chateau Meyney in St. Estephe really hits the mark! Neighbour Chateau Phelan Segur also is highly qualified and most worthy. Meyney has a long history of grape growing but instrumental to wine development was the acquisition by the Cordier family (Gruaud Larose & Talbot) in 1917 and currently by CA Grands Crus (Grand Puy Ducasse & Rayne Vigneau) since 2004. Your scribe is a long time collector of St. Julien’s by GL & T and was fortunate to buy many of their wines during the eighties. So many star vintages in that decade with 1982s written up here on January 3, 2022 and a GL profile here on November 2, 2015. Wine shops usually also carried the other Cordier sister wine Chateau Meyney at much lower prices so bought those too.
Over the years felt tasting Meyney that they showed earlier on as simpler, more austere & rustic but with some age as they matured learned to appreciate them more. They have structure from iron rich “blue” clay (similar to Petrus in Pomerol) and develop with cellaring lovely smoothness, depth, and licorice notes. A single 51 hectare parcel divided into 62 different plots is unique with high Petit Verdot contribution in the Cab Sauv/Merlot blend. St Estephe is being helped by climate change with those clay soils preserving much needed moisture for the vines over the hot Summers – as seen during the blistering heat of 2003. All recent warmer vintages from 2014 to 2020 inclusive have been so successful with even Jancis Robinson awarding the 2016 a score of 18/20. Since 2013 Consultant Hubert de Bouard of Chateau Angelus deserves some kudos for all his contributions to stellar winemaking. In her recent Inside Bordeaux wine book Jane Anson sings the praises of Chateau Meyney and suggests it is worthy today of a 5th Growth classification.
Last night was a surprising treat of how well the 1986 (dark powerful & earthy but only 12.6 abv) paired with a delicious Risotto of Porcini Mushrooms. Last year stuffed chicken thighs also matched the flavours of 1986. What sublime matches. Earlier the mature 1982 (low 12 abv) still has juicy cherries with complex subtle savoury spices drinking beautifully. Buy some bottles of the recent vintages from the last decade and look forward down the road to an amazing treat at real value.
Question: Which wine region has the oldest Mourvedre vines?
Answer: Might have expected the Rhone Valley in France but it is the Barossa Valley in Australia. Plantings of “selection massale” Old Garden by Friedrich Koch in 1853 for Hewitson are reputed to be the oldest surviving Mourvedre vines. These late ripening deep rooted vines in sand over limestone have adapted so well to the hot dry terroir existing there. Hard to believe they will be 170 years old next year in 2023 and are still producing those special grapes for wine.
Enjoyed last week another Burgundy dinner using L’Abattoir (last referenced here on December 7, 2020). A repeat pick-up treat procedure of food followed by Zoom sessions in what may be among the last ones for our patient vibrant wine groups in Vancouver anxious to return to restaurants now finally opening up. This Menu (with excellent detailed instructions again) suited mainly white Burgundy. Leftover cellar bottles of Maconnais white (mainly from Les Heritiers du Comte LAFON) were distributed and resulted in different reactions. Those with the younger vintages (or stellar aging 2010) were happy while those of older ones (including 2013, 2012, and 2009) less so. Your scribe had 2009 Macon-Chardonnay Clos de la Crochette Macon-Villages AC (clay-limestone at 200 metres facing south aged in larger barrels & demi-muids) that was tasty being rich, full and rather soft but definitely was better fresher a few years ago. Got me thinking about the best age for drinking these white Macon wines. They don’t age like Chablis Les Clos or Meursault Perrieres. Even though the grapes are picked early the terroir (and climate change) support earlier drinking in their first 5-8 years IMHO.
This event also got me focused on the opportunity to check out and purchase some current “values”. Certainly the Maranges, Cotes Chalonnaise, and Maconnais regions are generally doing better than most realize. Maranges was formed in 1989 from the 3 villages there of Cheilly, Dezize, and Sampigny producing nearly all red wine in a cherry juicy style when consumed young and currently being helped by climate change. Whites and reds from Chalonnaise led by Rully whites, Givry & Mercurey reds with the wonderful raspberries of Clos du Myglands well known from Faiveley. Maconnais too should be considered particularly the 2020 whites. Another underrated region much improved is Auxey-Duresses (better whites now!) as well as red Monthelie for better ripened fruit. 2020 is looking more consistent than 2019 & 2021 with some rather still good values. Monitor the releases – including 2020 Macon-Chardonnay!
Answer: Geosmin is a unique musty earthy smell you sometimes can notice in the aroma and taste of wine. It has a connection to a previous question asked here about “Petrichor” – the smell of rain on dry soil. For wine it can be caused by heavy rain resulting in soil bacteria landing on the grapes or contaminated through ground water. There is a good explanation about this issue relating to 2006 red Burgundy in the recent book “Burgundy Vintages – A History from 1845” by Allen D. Meadows and Douglas E. Barzelay on page 506. Geosmin also can sometimes be noticed in the taste of earthy beets and some “muddy” fish like catfish. Be aware of this word.
