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So-called First Growth and Grand Cru wines in any vintage bring with them an optimistic expectation of top quality. Generally one is pumped to try just one and you look forward to it with keen anticipation. To taste and enjoy a First Growth vertical over one evening is perhaps overkill resulting sometimes in a mistaken tendency to just to look for the best and the worst years. Your scribe approached the tasting function #126 of the Vancouver Group of Eight on December 3, 2024 at Blue Water Cafe for dinner featuring 9 vintages of CHÂTEAU LA MISSION HAUT-BRION (LMHB) with great enthusiasm. After all, one of my memorable fine wine lightbulb memories was way back in 1974 tasting the off-vintage 1958 of LMHB in San Francisco. Amazed then at how such a difficult less reputed year could deliver such a complex beauty of rich complex fruit so typically Graves. What a consistent Chateau for outstanding wines! Resulted in my high respect for the Woltner family (from 1919-1983) then owners and presently continuing for this property since then with the esteemed Domaine Clarence Dillon S.A. Some brief impressions on 9 vintages of LMHB served in two flights youngest to oldest:

2012 CHÂTEAU LA MISSION HAUT-BRION An uneven weather year 397 mm rain (based on Bordeaux region 1950-2013 where average was 400mm with wettest 1992 at 697 & driest 2011 at 213) with 24 days over 30C. Powerful most alcohol at 15 abv from riper grapes expressing mint with a charming silky balance finishing up with rich younger tannins. Excellent quality for the vintage. Should continue to age well.

2006 CHÂTEAU LA MISSION HAUT-BRION Climate extremes resulted in extensive labour used for green harvesting, leaf thinning, and meticulous sorting. Well done. At 14.5 abv with 315 mm & 32 days over 30C shows lively energy plus very intense full complete wine of many flavours with mature tannins. Surprise of the night. Sort of reminds me of 1958 in that you have a complex resulting wine from a challenging year. Delightful drinking now but no rush.

2003 CHÂTEAU LA MISSION HAUT-BRION Dry 263 mm but very hot 49 days over 30C resulted in very ripe grapes. Open sweeter fragrant aromas with more licorice delivers a softer forwardly entry but has full fruit with a long finish. Lovely drinking with the duck confit. Enjoy.

2000 CHÂTEAU LA MISSION HAUT-BRION More rain 438 mm but less heat with 21 days over 30C in this millenial vintage. Prefer this bouquet of the first flight with fresh complex subtle notes of perfectly ripe fruit. Full rounder textures with amazing flavours that continue to develop on the palate. Early plateau of enjoyment that will last a long time in your cellar.

1998 CHÂTEAU LA MISSION HAUT-BRION Very wet at 537 mm with only 21 days over 30C. Less nose and in a more herbaceous way. Dense and tannic but not singing. Expect it will evolve and further open with more time.

1989 CHÂTEAU LA MISSION HAUT-BRION This had 359 mm rain (1990 less at 291) and 22 days over 30C (1990 hotter at 31 days). What a spectacular way to start this phenomenal second flight! Darkest colour from an exceptional harvest and admire only 13 abv. Wow orange rind with exotic cloves and typical earthy truffles (I adore) so textbook in this property when at its best. The smooth lush harmonious entry of cool complex fruit is unbelievable. So structured. Tried the 1990 twin last year which is also excellent but has a more stewed riper softer character. 1989 is one of the greatest legendary LMHB. Wine of the night!

1983 CHÂTEAU LA MISSION HAUT-BRION 477 mm & similar 21 days over 30C. Better microclimate in Pessac-Leognan (and Margaux) than generally in Bordeaux. Darker deeper look than 1982. Shows that typical tobacco nose with attractive styling. A bit drying on the finish perhaps but this is an underrated vintage for LMHB. Reminds me somewhat of the tremendous 1978. Drink 1983 currently with dinner.

1982 CHÂTEAU LA MISSION HAUT-BRION Good weather with 402 mm & 16 days over 30 C but a high 40C on July 8 during a hot summer. Very cassis/blackcurrant fruit with big tobacco and 1982 styling in harmony. Riper than 1983 but softer and less structured than 1989. Delicious. As member Nick Wright commented “Every wine in this second flight has so much personality!” Drinking beautifully and will continue to do so for some time.

1975 CHÂTEAU LA MISSION HAUT-BRION Powerful year with 325 mm & 15 days over 30C. Palest rim. Came out of the gate on release with a 100 point Parker score. Now it is much drier than the other wines but still classic. Does have that great bouquet of maturing tobacco, earthy truffles but less ripe fruit. Those firmer tannins have mostly melted away. On a drinking plateau that improves when matched with food such as the tasty rack of lamb served here.

All nine vintages showed wonderful enticing interest. An extraordinary Chateau that is producing First Growth consistent highest quality wines every vintage. Congrats.

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Question: Your thoughts on the continuing Anti Alcohol lobbying?

Answer: Well as a lifelong wine aficionado I think too many very restrictive conclusions have been reached that are not backed up by any scientific data. More movements for “Dry January” and “Sober October” seem to be arising. Pleased to see the push back from many sources including the recent “Come Over October” campaign that are supporting wine in moderation. A good friend of mine Mark Hicken has some excellent observations on his winelaw.ca site in three parts:

1. Only Pay Attention to Good Science
2. Don’t Listen to Biased Sources
3. Individuals Should Make Their Own Choices

Lots of other good references including these: Has the WHO (World Health Organization) lost its way regarding alcohol? on The Wine Gourd site of David Morrison August 26, 2024 What the Headlines Get Wrong About Alcohol and Health on daily.sevenfifty.com by Dr. Laura Catena on November 11, 2024. Decide what works best for you.

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Your scribe remains a long time close friend and admirer of May-Elaine de Lencquesaing. Some amazing highlights of her and her elegant wines while at Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande from 1978 to 2007 have been recorded in detail on this Blog. The last one was this year on March 11, 2024 but earlier ones include February 14, 2022, June 15, 2020, and June 18, 2013 all linked here. May is still the dynamo “General” guided by the music of Vivaldi at the age of 99 who this year just translated into English her Tallandier 2022 French publication “les vendanges d’un destin” now titled “MY JOURNEY WITH WINE: From Bordeaux to South Africa”. Approaching her 100th birthday on May 17, 2025 she hopes to celebrate it with another interesting book highlighting her extensive glass collection museum at Glenelly Estate (now completed over 20 harvests). Remember her wonderful collection of 780+ glass pieces at Pichon that included a priceless delicate horse of 1610 Merano. Highly recommend you purchase this book! Available on Amazon.com including in International Kindle format.

There was a Vancouver Commanderie de Bordeaux tasting/dinner held on December 2nd at Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts featuring 8 vintages of May’s wines from her first vintage of 1978 to 2005. The menu prepared by Chef Lian Cosby and brigade was excellent. The thin delicate chestnut tortellini was one of the best courses this year. Yours truly presented an opening tribute that was given an enthusiastic toast salute to May for all she has contributed to the history of Bordeaux fine wine making. I pointed out how May on her 80th Birthday expressed strongly that the 4 grape varieties she used in Pichon all contributed to the high quality resulting wine with Longevity (45% Cab Sauv), Roundness & Suppleness (35% Merlot), Finesse (12% Cab Franc) and Freshness & Aromatic Complexity (8% Petit Verdot). A few brief impressions on the vintages served in two flights from oldest to youngest:

1978 CHATEAU PICHON LALANDE: Acidity is holding the colour well. May’s first vintage self-critical that she “didn’t know yet how to control the vine selection” but still is elegant even if a bit typically 1978 herbaceous and as Ian Mottershead noted “has tobacco but a drier finish”. Drink up.

1981 CHATEAU PICHON LALANDE: Darker look and better selected riper fruit. Still fresh, bright and classy being one of the top 1981 Bordeaux with Château Margaux. Surprise of the night.

1985 CHÂTEAU PICHON LALANDE: Miss the amazing 1982 & 1983! This 1985 is ready & delightful from a Merlot year in harmony balanced with charm. Delicious. Group fav of first flight.

1986 CHÂTEAU PICHON LALANDE: Darkest colour. More classic Pauillac styling showing more Cab Sauv complexity. Still a bit hard and reluctant though encouraging that every bottle is better than an earlier one. Emile Peynaud called it having “the most tannins he had seen”. No rush. Expect further development. My fav.

1995 CHÂTEAU PICHON LALANDE: Second flight starts bottle variable with a tad earthy unclean one not as pure as Feb 13, 2024 top showing. Some have more opulence and typical Merlot plums. Holding well.

2000 CHATEAU PICHON LALANDE: Deep look and lovely aromatics. Round mellow softer textures with 10% Petit Verdot adding a lot to that expression with the Cab Sauv base in this vintage. Lots of rich subtle spices from riper grapes picked late into the second week of October. Drinking enjoyment – on a great plateau.

2003 CHÂTEAU PICHON LALANDE: Dark and buckets of fruit in this hotter vintage. Always seems to impress with powerful ripe sweeter big flavours very opulent. Atypical Pichon Lalande. No Cab Franc but 65/31/4 unique blend of Cab Sauv/Merlot/PV in 2003. Drinking with beautiful complex intensity!

2005 CHÂTEAU PICHON LALANDE: Dark and reserved. Outstanding year has medicinal coffee backward notes. Not together yet with the balanced acidity and especially tannins prominent. Seems classic but not that concentrated. Necessary to monitor how this will come along with more bottle age.

2002 OPUS ONE Napa Valley (Blind Mystery): Open with a very ripe cabernet sauvignon bouquet of some aging. Wowed by the accessible creamy sweeter voluptuous soft fruit. Not much lift on the finish. Attractive, easy, delicious drinking right now. Perhaps less dimensions of complex flavours. Member JP Bachellerie who spoke on the second flight did a most insightful job nailing blind this aged Napa Valley Cab.

A wonderful tribute evening to May – the living wine legend! As I was quoted in her book I believe that …for all that Julia Child was for “food” May is for “wine “!

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Question: What is the difference between the wine grape varieties of Albarino and Alvarinho?

Answer: Basically the same green skin white grape variety grown in two countries using two different names. In Galicia Spain especially in Rias Baixas it is ALBARINO but in northern Portugal it goes by the name of ALVARINHO.

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Followers of this Blog will know that your scribe really respects and admires everything from Domaine Faiveley! References to this esteemed house are abundant on this site with the last one for a Chambertin Clos de Beze complex vertical on January 16, 2023 linked in detail here. Another keen knowledgeable aficionado collector is Ian Mottershead who generously donated the wines for that Group of Eight event and again kindly did so for this Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin tasting/dinner on November 19 at Boulevard in Vancouver. We started with the underrated balanced value bubbles of CHAMPAGNE LE MESNIL BLANC DE BLANCS GRAND CRU followed by two delicious whites: MEURSAULT BLAGNY PREMIER CRU 2020 JOSEPH FAIVELEY Rich full oaky hazelnuts very Meursault defined with ripe flavours drinking forwardly.

CORTON CHARLEMAGNE GRAND CRU 2017 DOMAINE FAIVELEY 13.5 abv Cool south mostly east facing Ladoix upper hillside on hard rocky limestone soil. Two of fifteen barrels produced in 2017 for the first time from expanded plantings of Chardonnay. Light colour with young aromas of complex mineral fruit with subtle 40% new oak. So classy with great length but will develop depth and richer textures with more patient bottle age. Ian’s outstanding favourite. My vote for “Wine of the Night”.

The main event were 8 vintages of CORTON CLOS DES CORTONS FAIVELEY GRAND CRU. Recent plantings in 2002 & 1987 but lots of old vines 1977, 1976, 1971, 1965, 1956 & 1936.

Ian provided an insightful history and overview of Faiveley now with the seventh generation. Cellarmaster Blair Curtis provided his excellent detailed reaction on the reds summarized as “needing time of 10 years more”. Also his wise advice that they improved with food (duck breast & striploin) – especially 1996 & 1991. A few of my brief impressions:

1998: A bit angular and reserved nose. It does have cherries but the cedar tobacco is almost like young Bordeaux. Will develop and open up better with time.

1997: Beautiful but reticent bouquet of cherry core with brightness. Full mid palate with elegance and balanced acidity but more firmness on the finish. Underrated. My fav of this flight.

1996: This is lighter colour and leaner fruit but with tannins. Not an ideal balance. As the Chambertin showed a bit “strange” dry and tannic – not the best Faiveley vintage – but is better with food alright.

1995: Vibrant cherries sweet mid palate drying finish. My glass had too much fine sediment. The most enjoyable drinking presently of the first flight and the “surprise” for Blair.

Erwan Faiveley has told me that his father Francois made the wines from 1977 to 2005 using two different procedures:

1977 -1994: Grapes were brought into the tanks by gravity and gently vinified at lower temperatures always with an emphasis on saving the aromas and producing wines for aging.

1995 – 2005: Changed to a new cooling system for the harvested grapes using a pipe with glycerol that tended to break the skins releasing more sugar into the vats resulting in a more rapid and sometimes even violent fermentation at higher temperatures with wines of more extract and tannins but less finesse.

2007 to today: Back to the early days of Francois with outstanding wines with more silky refinement!

Your scribe noticed this difference in style with the first flight (1995-1998) more extracted drier tannins while the second flight (1993-1988) had much more finesse.

1993: Warmer year. Pure and penetrating with a tremendous mouth feel with rounder maturing tannins. Some finesse. Blair felt it was “underrated and spectacular”. Impressive indeed – as was Chambertin.

1991: One bottle corked so a smaller pour. A bit lighter but has charm. My glass unfortunately had a lot of sediment that spoiled the texture. Developed with long flavours.

1990: Best fruit depth and power of all the Cortons. Quite fresh. Lacking the charm which is so important to me. Lots of fruit depth though and balance so I am optimistic it will still develop more complexity and those silky textures given extended bottle age. One of our members Young was blowing air with a straw into this glass to help it open up. Unique idea.

1988: Bottle variation from sweet tobacco to cherry mint. Best had subtle developing flavours with elegance. No sediment in my glass so the texture is much better. Lots of elegance and balancing acidity. Very long. Old vibrant style of higher acid and firmer tannins of 1988 has come together.

A most interesting and educational tasting/dinner!

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