British Columbia Liquor (BCLIQUOR) celebrates their 40th Anniversary for Bordeaux vintage releases on September 27, 2025 spotlighting the heralded 2022 vintage. It all started with the release of the fantastic 1982 vintage bought by the ebullient David Scholefield. Your scribe remembers lining up early at 39th & Cambie in October 1985 to buy a magnum of 1982 Chateau Mouton Rothschild at the then reasonable price of $148.75. Forty years later it is all well managed by Barbara Philip MW BCLIQUOR’S Bordeaux buyer who had been most ably advised by the legendary expert great guy Bill Blatch who died earlier this year. On September 10 Barb conducted a media preview of two dry whites, thirteen reds, and one Barsac which showed impressively. While they are two years ahead with early barrel tasting at the Bordeaux Primeurs it is actually preferable to see the wines bottled and released for a fairer, more definitive assessment.

BCLIQUOR produced an excellent detailed free booklet on the wines available for purchase of some 104 pages with 198 wines featured with comments – including 8 from the 1982 vintage. The powerful 1982 Cos d’Estournel bought by me for $39.45 in October 1985 is now forty years later and drinking splendidly but selling at $1500. That is quite a difference in price for enjoying a mature beauty. There is also an insightful feature in the current free TASTE magazine by Rhys Pender MW with comparative notes on the 2022 & 1982 Chateau Lagrange St.-Julien.

Nineteen dry Bordeaux whites on sale of which we tasted two from Pessac-Leognan:

2022 CHÂTEAU FERRAN BLANC $50: Lovely fresh lemony citrus notes of 96% Sauvignon Blanc with 4% Semillon grown near Martillac with a touch of oak is drinking forwardly. Value.

2022 DOMAINE DE CHEVALIER $250: This is more classic with 30% Semillon blended with 70% Sauvignon Blanc harvested August 28 to September 6. Pale colour, stylish open aromas, dense but soft rich palate with much more textural depth and layers of mineral fruit and 40% new oak still to integrate. History of aging well now in Diam closure for best aged bottle consistency. A treat.

Finished with one of six Sauternes from a year noted for late arriving mid-October Botrytis affected grapes:

2022 CHÂTEAU COUTET BARSAC $55 (375ml): Blend of mostly Sémillon with blended Sauvignon Blanc & Muscadelle at 13.9 abv has structured ripe notes of pineapple/apricot/almond/peach & textbook ginger with high residual sugar yet that Barsac acidity of drier styling.

A diverse selection of thirteen Bordeaux reds tasted with brief comments:

2022 CHÂTEAU REYNON, CADILLAC CÔTES DE BORDEAUX $40: Dark deep ripe floral fruit with a touch of spicy herbal green, orange, and red peppers yet balanced. Nice for food matching and good value at 14 abv.

2022 CHÂTEAU LA VIEILLE CURE, FRONSAC $60: Similar dark look, more earthy plums Bordeaux styled top Fronsac fruit forwardly drinking but ageable too. Big with a touch of heat on the finish at 15 abv.

2022 CHÂTEAU GRAND CORBIN-DESPAGNE, ST-EMILION GRAND CRU $95: Right bank family owned since 1812 this blend of ripe 75% Merlot with 24 Cab Franc & 1 Cab Sauv with 50% new oak is quite juicy sweet prune generous fruit at low yielding 36 hl/ha 15 abv.

2022 CHÂTEAU BELLEGRAVE, POMEROL $100: Distinctive spicy iron notes of Pomerol with 25% Cab Franc blended with 75 % Merlot is stylish rounder forwardly entry but still tighter balance on the finish 14 abv.

2022 CHÂTEAU BROWN, PESSAC-LEOGNAN $80: Attractive cassis/blackberry from 53% CS, 45 Merlot, & 2 PV on gravelly clay P-L soils. Even a touch of developing tobacco leather already at 14.5 abv.

2022 CHÂTEAU LANESSAN, HAUT-MEDOC $50: Medium bodied but cooler top fruit for superb classy value under the radar at 14 abv. Proven ageability from this property over many vintages still enjoying the fresh solid 2000. Top recommended value buy.

2022 CHATEAU SIRAN, MARGAUX $85: Shows well the Margaux definition even in a hot year with lighter charming fruit & flowers 14 abv. Easy drinking.

2022 CHÂTEAU MARGAUX, MARGAUX $1700: Expensive wine but truly outstanding. Intense concentration right to the still very dark young rim. First thought it was not as structured as 2016 but then I was amazed by the best elements of 2009 ripeness + 2010 rich tannins beautifully combined. Low yields from small concentrated Cab Sauv (92%) berries and silky tannins using only 40% of crop for the Grand Vin. WOW. Shows how great the 2022 vintage can be at the highest level. 14.5 abv

2022 CHÂTEAU BRANAIRE-DUCRU, ST.-JULIEN $140: Full body and structure of St. Julien from 60.5CS/31.5M/5.5CF/2.5PV at 14.5 abv. Impressively shows big fruit with signature cedar/cigar box developing complexity. Smart buy for cellaring.

2022 CHÂTEAU LAGRANGE, ST.-JULIEN $130: Another appealing St. Julien but earthier accessible spicier fruit of 86CS/12M/2PV picked in the last 3 weeks of September in 60% new oak 21 months. Still a baby compared to the 40 year older 1982.

1982 CHATEAU LAGRANGE, ST.-JULIEN $600: Mature example with a special complex bouquet. Less alcohol at 13.5 abv. Drying out and much lighter still enchanting but not the greatness of the age worthy outstanding 2000 presently singing brilliantly at 25 years.

2022 CHÂTEAU LYNCH-BAGES, PAUILLAC $350: Popular property here with 66CS/28M/3CF/3PV at 14.5 abv shows its usual Pauillac power with finesse. Successful again in 2022. Also have Echo de Lynch-Bages at $110.

2022 CHATEAU PHELAN SEGUR, ST.-ESTEPHE: $125: Unusually more Merlot at 56% with 40CS and a little CF/PV with low yielding 28hl/ha at 14 abv. Excellent ripe peppery full bodied above its recognized classification successful after June hails reduced the crop volume with 55% new oak. Surprise of the tasting. Well done Veronique Dausse.

Check out this plethora of quality Bordeaux wines being released on September 27. Many already delicious but most freshly balanced for aging complexity as well. Versatile vintage. Opportunity knocks!

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Over the decades it has always been interesting to me to study restaurant wine lists. Your scribe has loads of experience even judging several competitions awarding the best wine list. Memories from the last century of dining at Michelin starred restaurants (with rooms) in France and upon checking in asking for the Wine List to carefully go over before dinner. Some long expansive tomes in those days and it was fun to narrow down some possible wine choices and older vintages you wanted to try and enjoy. It was so much simpler then with fewer top quality wine regions and more reasonably priced classic wines. Today it is much more difficult to balance the restaurant’s hope for profitability with the consumer’s search for fair value. So many factors involved now including the plethora of successful wineries around the world offering excellent wines, the demand and scarcity of icon wines, the increasing prices of all wines, higher mark-ups, tariffs, the marketing of brands, the dominance of supermarkets, cost control and inventory management, staff training, the happening of natural & orange wines, and the health issues with recent emergence of no alcohol or low-alcohol (NoLo) or alcohol-free (AF) & non-alcoholic (NA).

What is the right magic number of wines to offer on a Wine List? You want a diverse selection at various price points to satisfy consumer tastes – but not too many to navigate through. It is nice to see a regularly changing updated list. A good opportunity to try new undiscovered wines. You want wines that match the cuisine. Two lists often work well with a shorter one with reasonably priced wines and by the glass selections plus a longer one of more limited inventory at higher prices. We like slower mid-week specials (Cactus Club Tuesday half price) and BYOB day (at Orto Artisan Pasta). It is not an easy job to craft a balanced workable wine list. Increased restaurant emphasis on beers, ciders, sake, and especially cocktails. Please try harder on your Wine Lists!

Thinking back over the past year on various Wine Lists we have experienced shows Canada (with monopoly Liquor Boards) really needing wine price relief though Quebec & Alberta are somewhat better. Several visits to Paris & Burgundy show extensive lists of yore at the 3 star Michelins (Epicure at The Bristol) & Bistro 114 Faubourg but still fine value at Le Maufoux in Beaune for 2020 Chablis Raveneau 70 Euros, 2018 Meursault Domaine Roulot 100E, and 2015 Beaune Clos de la Mousse Bouchard Père 110E. The USA does better but with an amazing wide range starting with good Greek wine reasonable choices by the glass “Vins au Verre” at Milos locations to pair well with the Greek food to expensive resorts like Topper’s at the Wauwinet on Nantucket Island though have 11 Gevrey-Chambertin choices from $8000 to $140 listed in descending price order. Some fair values in New York with mature Italian 2014 Barbera d’Asti Icardi $85 perfect with the Italian focused cuisine at Don Angie, fresh Vermentino from Sardinia $62 at Shukette, and appropriate Alsace Riesling 2018 Grittermatte $95 at hot new Penny. Like the wine focus at some Boston spots like Toscano that feature ongoing specials for 8 ounce servings. San Francisco ranges widely too from upscale Rousseau Clos St. Jacques verticals at Angler to more user friendly lists at Zuni Cafe.

Possibly the best restaurant wine find of the year for me was an exquisite bottle specially imported of surprisingly pure balanced complexity 2022 Bourgogne Blanc Hautes-Cotes de Beaune Jardin Du Calvaire from respected Etienne Sauzet at Le Crocodile Vancouver. Posted on this Blog August 11, 2025 were white Burgundy values & this is another one to add on.

Wine Lists and sommelier led formal wine service is presently at a crossroads. Where do you think restaurants go from here? Pleased to receive your feedback and your predictions.

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The modified Paulée of the Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin Sous-Commanderie de Vancouver British Columbia is a remarkable event. It is approaching 20 years, started first in an informal way but now celebrating the 16th formal anniversary since 2010 spotlighting white wines from a specific region of Burgundy. Lots of postings on this Blog referencing Puligny, Meursault – especially Perrieres, Corton- Charlemagne and Grand Cru Chablis. Only twice before have we featured Chassagne in 2012, and in 2018 (2015 vintage back to 2002) linked here August 27, 2018 so this was a good time for an update on August 24, 2025 at Acquafarina. Chassagne-Montrachet is a large area with many smaller wine producers. Covers 370 hectares (865 acres) around a stretched out 2 1/2 miles with 159 ha Premier Cru mainly on the slopes now up to 75% white, 180 ha Village AC usually on flatter ground and 11.4 ha Grand Cru (just under half of both Montrachet & Batard-Montrachet and all of Criots-Batard-Montrachet but none of both Chevalier-Montrachet & Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet). A more difficult white Burgundy region to get to know well with such diverse vineyards plus the inter family connections of the Colins, Morey, Coffinet, Pillot, Gagnard, and others. The popularity and increased price of white over red wine has resulted in too much conversion. There should be a new classification done for the Premier Cru designation so not necessarily both white & red for the same lieu-dit is allowed. Areas like the catch-all label of Morgeot, Clos Saint-Jean and Les Macherelles should not be classified 1er Cru white when grown on flatter land more appropriate red wine soil. Fun trying some 30+ wines over 14 vintages but not enough time given to study them. Wines were arriving at different times over a range of temperatures and changing with airing in the glass. Your scribe commented on the Paulee wines and suggested rather than 2 events in one we consider making the Paulee its own event – more like the Meursault Monday appreciation at Les Trois Glorieuses every November.

Easier comparing the Paulee wines this year because Grand Senechal Christine Collison smartly organized them into three more manageable groups and Chevalier Matthew Burke brilliantly handled his position of Wine Steward. Well done. Some brief comments:

(A) VINTAGES 2023, 2022, 2021, 2020:

2023 LES CHENEVOTTES MARC MOREY: Richer supple larger vineyard on the north side (nearer St. Aubin) from this respected producer using battonage and later bottling. Young generous vintage seems unusually yeasty. 13.5 abv

2022 LA ROMANEE MOREY-COFFINET: Large crop from an appealing year but old vines on high slopes result in excellent intense racy minerals. Tied for best showing in this younger group from the largest vineyard holder of this coveted Premier Cru. 13 abv

2021 MALTROIRE ARMAND HEITZ: Bad April frosts low yields with more floral notes and less weighty using Diam closure. 13 abv

2021 LA BOUDRIOTTE/MORGEOT LAMY-PILLOT: Chevalier brought this bottle which was the red version.

2020 LES CHENEVOTTES MARC MOREY: Two different bottles of this one both 3 years older than 2023. Different temperatures but one fresher and fuller. 13.5 abv

2020 EN VIRONDOT MARC MOREY: Great vineyard only 2.28 ha high on the steep slopes part of La Grande Montagne with impressive dense impressive minerality. My fav in this first group.

2020 MORGEOT JEAN-CLAUDE RAMONET: The old Domaine Ramonet Estate is now split between Jean-Claude & Noel and their children. This is rather a good Morgeot blanc at fair value. Some of their Cuvees are now being “leased” to other top producers. 13.5 abv

2020 CLOS DE LA CHAPELLE DUC DE MAGENTA/LOUIS JADOT: Solid from this balanced underrated vintage. Will develop further.

2020 VILLAGE PHILIPPE COLIN: Interesting to try this Village Chassagne against all the other Premier Crus. Surprising apple-pear subtlety and elegance from this top producer. Sources from lots of different parcels, many from the Puligny side and some from his family’s Domaine Colin-Deleger. Better white wine soils than some of the Premier Cru wines.

(B) VINTAGES 2019, 2015, 2014, 2013, 2012, 2010:

2019 CHAMP GAIN REMOISSENET: Hot year but 15 abv on the label seems crazy. Mid slope vineyard with exotic flavours but finishes with too much alcohol.

2015 MORGEOT BACHELET-RAMONET: Fleshy year but this one shows lighter simpler with less weight than most 2015. Lovely 13.5 abv

2015 LES FAIRENDES/MORGEOT PIERRE-YVES COLIN-MOREY: Best Morgeot above the D113A using its own name by a great producer PYCM earlier picking (like Bouchard Pere) using less SO2 in newer colder winery for more recent vintages. Lees but no battonage stirring for vibrant refreshing acidity style. First bottle emptied.

2015 LES CHAUMÉES JEAN NOEL GAGNARD: Largest holder in Les Caillerets and 2nd here. Old style full and softer 13.5 abv

2015 LES CHAUMÉES PHILIPPE COLIN: Largest vineyard holder in this Premier Cru higher up on the north side. Ripe solid delicious. Much richer and more complex than the good value Philippe Colin Village Chassage 2020.

2014 LES CHENEVOTTES MARC MOREY: Excellent tension and balanced acidity here. Still young and vibrant so continue to age this treasure.

2014 CLOS DU CHÂTEAU DE LA MALTROYE: Outstanding vintage but disappointing maderized bottle. Marl soils are more dependable for red.

2013 LES VERGERS MARC MOREY: Just below Chaumees at mid-slope from this usually dependable value vineyard. Lovely.

2013 EN VIRONDOT MARC MOREY: Same vineyard and producer as the 2020 in the previous flight. Variable vintage but still fresh complex with a softer finish. Shows very well,

2013 LES MACHERELLES REMOISSENET: Below Chenevottes on the north side on flatter ground better for red wines. Coarser but drinking OK.

2012 LES CHAMP GAIN PIERRE-YVES COLIN-MOREY: Tried two bottles but unfortunately both corked TCA.

2010 LA GRANDE MONTAGNE LUCIEN LE MOINE: Older great smaller yield vintage south of En Virondot. Rich and powerful with such impressive depth of mature pure flavours.

(C) CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET 1ER CRU LES CAILLERETS VINEYARD:

Arguably the best or one of the very best vineyards for Chassagne white wine. Combines fullness, raciness, and depth for a textbook Chassagne Premier Cru. All these Les Caillerets wines showed style and complexity. 10.68 ha with En Caillerets at 5.11 all white, A very good showing.

2018 FONTAINE GAGNARD: Starting a new winery with more space and flexibility but this had the least amount of time in oak (11 months 1/3 rd new). Notice the oak from this hotter year in a softer reductive style. Rather good terroir from .56ha at 13.5 abv.

2018 CAROLINE MOREY: Talented white wine maker married to Pierre using lees not stirred with 20% new oak. Full intense concentrated pure fruit impresses. So fresh from .36ha at 13.5 abv.

2017 JOSEPH COLIN: Fresh from that subtle 2017 acidity is both stylish and elegant. Lighter but lovely from .39ha at 13 abv.

2016 PAUL PILLOT: Difficult variable frosty vintage using larger 300-500 litre oak casks (18 months) not much new in a softer classic simpler Chassagne from .51ha at 13 abv.

2014 FAIVELEY: Warmer temperature makes it seem softer but still young and great vintage longevity. 13.5 abv

2014 CAROLINE MOREY: Sensational. Using to best advantage the upper marl section for weight together with the lower calcareous part for elegance! Young and so balanced with unlimited potential. Your scribe’s Wine of the Night. 13.5 abv

2013 PIERRE-YVES COLIN-MOREY Magnum: Wonderful format in magnum. Close second here only because 2014 is a better vintage. PYCM says “Les Caillerets can show timidly in its youth but ages well, often developing more finesse than the Grand Crus but with less weight”. Only .18ha at 13 abv is put to perfect use.

2010 LUCIEN LE MOINE: At lunch with an exquisite porcini course showed the vintage complexity. Delightful drinking on the mature exciting plateau or just the start of the downslope with complex bouquet and layers of flavour. Yes please.

2008 LUCIEN LE MOINE: Bottle variation here. Some are maderized and others quite mature. LLM doesn’t own any vineyards here so best selection in a variable older vintage not guaranteed for long aging.

Young 2021 Chassagne reds but aged Drouhin-Laroze Clos Vougeot showed 2006 best open aromatics and enjoyable rounder softer drinking while 2007 more structured and backward needing more cellaring.

The outstanding lunch by Acquafarina was beautifully prepared and served. Well matched to the Burgundy wines. Appreciated the appropriate size of the servings so artistically presented using the finest of ingredients. This was the third year in a row by them for this memorable event and we look forward to many more. Congrats.

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