On March 31, 2026 the Vancouver Group of Eight event #140 at Blue Water Cafe took another in-depth look six years later at the underrated 2002 red Burgundies that we spotlighted in detail here on February 24, 2020. This vintage 2002 has often been erroneously compared with the more powerful 1999 and the riper 2003. It should be judged on its own merits for the light, delicate, and complex true Burgundy finesse it conveys. Also your scribe appreciates the delicious succulent minerally floral fruit with balanced acidity. All this, combined with the refined, precise, terroir-driven charm of the wines shows a vintage aging gracefully that deserves more respect. Another nine completely different 2002 wines to study this time with similar conclusions reached.

We started with the excellent 2008 BILLECART-SALMON CUVEE NICOLAS FRANCOIS BRUT from this independent family house, established in 1818. Wonderful richness with balance. Bottle contributor Nick Wright pointed out the valuable information available online by referencing myorigin.billecart.fr (081077) from the back label: top Pinot Noir 60% & Chardonnay 40% from 83% Grand Cru & 17% Premier Cru with partial malolactic conversion, only 2.9 g/l dosage (really Extra Brut) in early 2022 (13+ years on the lees). They describe there the aromas of nuts, stone fruits, and floral notes, along with the palate’s intensity, complexity and balance. The website includes an interesting Vintage Map of the 5 stages of Champagne development: Freshness, Blooming, Spices, Maturity, and Complexity.

We finished with 2007 CHATEAU CLIMENS BARSAC, which had a golden look and was deliciously ready with ginger and spice for the appropriately paired Orange and Pineapple Tart.

A few comments on the main 2002 red Burgundy focus:

1. 2002 VOLNAY SANTENOTS-DU-MILIEU 1ER CRU DOMAINE DES COMTES LAFON: Admire the Lafon whites and this special Volnay Santenots vineyard of Du-Milieu, which spans only 8 hectares—nearly half of which they own—and usually requires aging. The fruit intensity is usually better than that of the regular Les Santenots, which is much larger at 29+ hectares on clay-heavy soils. Lafon has many older vines from the sixties and since 1989, they have been declassifying their younger vines into village AC Volnay. This is clearly the darkest of the first flight of four wines, offering a deep intriguing nose. It shows slightly more openness than it did a few years ago. It retains plenty of intense fruit, offering complex flavours that will continue to improve rounding out and developing further complexity with more aging. It isn’t charming presently but it is too young and needs time; allowing for more cellar aging is best. Like the 13% ABV. Your scribe voted it the best potential wine of this Flight but was outvoted 7-1.

2. 2002 POMMARD LES RUGIENS 1ER CRU VIEILLES VIGNES DOMINIQUE LAURENT: This former pastry chef, who has been a negociant bottler since 1988 has the next two wines. Les Rugiens has two roughly similar parts of 6 hectares each. The lower section (Bas) is clearly the best featuring iron-rich soils (like Clos des Epeneaux) while the upper section (Haut) delivers less weight and flavours. DL bought grower-vinified juice and supplies his own oak (200% for early vintages). It is difficult to obtain the finest grapes from the Bas section which is shown here, as this Pommard has a lighter ruby rim and a less dense rustic character. Ready. Outclassed.

3. 2002 NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES LES SAINT-GEORGE VIEILLES VIGNES DOMINIQUE LAURENT: Another old school style from this prized NSG vineyard, grown on brown clay with small stones. Both Laurent wines use “Vieille Vignes” on the label for marketing. Lightest colour of the flight, but the best open bouquet of red cherries and fragrant roses. Attractive upfront, but the stewed fruit is coarser, lacking the typical charm and finesse of the 2002 vintage and it finishes tart. Nonetheless, everyone but me voted it the best of the first flight. Your scribe was clearly out of step.

4. 2002 NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES LES CAILLES 1ER CRU BOUCHARD PERE & FILS: Les Cailles is a top vineyard similar in size (7 hectares) to the bordering Les St. Georges with Bouchard holding just over one hectare. Second darkest look, but with less depth than Lafon Volnay. Fresh, elegant, and stylish nose developing well with a balanced structure and spicy plummy fruit. Not the cleanest bottle I’ve had but this wine usually improves with time and is reasonable value. First flight of Premier Cru was overall a bit disappointing but the Quail course, served “en croute,” was spectacular and otherworldly delicious!

5. 2002 GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN CLOS ST. JACQUES 1ER CRU DOMAINE ARMAND ROUSSEAU PERE & FILS: Last of the Premier Crus, much better than those in the First Flight. Rousseau was very successful in 2002 and they rate their wines from this vintage highly. Only 5 owners possess Clos St Jacques with Rousseau owning the most westerly vineyard (steeper than Chambertin). All run up the hill with clay at the bottom and more white marl towards the top. On visits to Rousseau they always describe this outstanding vineyard as: “Fresh, very Harmonious & Tannins well integrated, Powerful, Intense, and lots of Delicacy.” Most appropriate with an exquisite bouquet but a more forward bottle than the last couple enjoyed. Remarkably pure smooth entry, harmonizing with charming elegant finesse. This was a miraculous match with the special rabbit course. Yes please.

6. 2002 CLOS DE TART GRAND CRU MOMMESSIN SEUL PROPRIETAIRE: Clos de Tart dates back to 1141 and was a Mommessin monopole of 7+ hectares in Morey-Saint-Denis since 1932 acquired by Artemis Domaines (Francois Pinault of Chateau Latour) in 2107. This 2002 top wine was made by winemaker Sylvain Pitiot (who retired in 2015) and shows their trademark “Finesse & Elegance.” Mommessin always correctly stated that “Its balance underlines the rich & complex aromas” that are still showing fresh and youthful. At 13.5% ABV, it reminds me of the 1985 style, featuring refined balance and real depth. It’s already impressive, but it will still improve. Patience is required. A beauty.

7. 2002 CORTON CLOS DES CORTONS FAIVELEY GRAND CRU DOMAINE FAIVELEY: Darkest deepest colour right to the edge. Big extract but Ewan Faiveley says it’s almost atypical: “As hard-edged, too structured, and too long macerations to get more colour – missing out on the refined charm that other producers found in this unique vintage.” It shows powerful backwardness with tight tannins, suggesting possible improvement far down the road. Not singing tonight. Question mark?

8. 2002 CHAMBERTIN GRAND CRU DOMAINE ROSSIGNOL-TRAPET: R-T combines the 1961 marriage of Rossignol (Jacques) from Volnay with Trapet (Mado) from Gevrey. Started Bio in 1990 and applied for certification in 2004. Great vineyard using measured extraction to highlight the outstanding terroir. At 13.5% ABV, it’s lighter than expected for this usually powerful style wine from a very top vineyard. Clean, firm, and classy, but it could be more precise and enchanting. However, still young and should put on more weight over time. Presently, it lacks definition, but it’s still early days. Expect more complexity with further bottle aging. An excellent special bottle on its own.

9. 2002 CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE GRAND CRU DOMAINE ARMAND ROUSSEAU PERE ET FILS: Served double blind as a Mystery wine. Good mid range young red look. Aromas are deep but closed in while opening slowly in the glass. Fresh, smooth, silky entry with outstanding balance and real length. Another 2002, though some speculated 2005 Chambertin. Very bright and classy but less evolved. Amazing combo of power with gentle finesse coming slowly together. Perhaps you expect the deeper subsoils of Chambertin will yield weightier, bigger, firmer wines with more spice than Clos de Bèze, which might be juicier, with more finesse and approachability. Clos de Beze is slightly steeper and warmer than Chambertin which benefits from cooler winds. It showed that way when both were Rousseau but here the Clos de Beze has a much greater, more intense quality than the R-T Chambertin. This was the clear winner for me at 14% ABV and it was educational: the mystery wine was the missing Clos de Bèze. It will eventually be an unbelievable treasure of enjoyment. Many thanks to Ian for letting us taste it along this remarkable journey.

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Question: I liked the information you provided us last week in Ask Sid about the 50-year-old Paris wine tasting where California beat France. Your loyal blog followers would surely appreciate knowing your current personal thoughts on the matter. Please post something!

Answer: Very kind. Yes, here are five main issues on JOP you might consider.

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The 47th Annual #VIWF was full of remarkable wine educational events. Among the best highlights was an outstanding trade seminar, “Classic and Contemporary Australia,” delivered on March 13, 2026 by the insightful Mark Davidson. This was truly #AussieWineDiscovered, featuring a detailed look at the history, diversity, and top quality wines being produced there. Mark is an experienced local treasure who now does a terrific job as Head of Education Development – Americas for Wine Australia. Last month, he was also in Vancouver presenting a most informative update on wines from the specific Victoria region in Australia with my detailed article linked here. This time Mark spoke about nine excellent representative wines from different regions of Australia, showcasing their amazing versatility in style with four whites and five reds using brilliantly conceived slides, as noted at the end of this report. He started with the history from the Pioneer Era (late 1700s–1800s), the Fortified Era (1900-1940s), the continuing Vineyard Changes made on Ancient Soils (including Bush Vines), and the new style Current Era with an “Accent on Freshness.” Here is an overview of the nine top-quality #AussieWine tasted:

1. 2017 SEMILLON VAT 1, TYRRELL’S VINEYARDS HUNTER VALLEY: Fantastic start with one of the world’s best aging dry whites and a cellar favourite of your scribe. Grapes are always picked at lower Brix to capture higher acidity. They are fermented in stainless steel without malolactic conversion or oak, then bottled early at just over 11% ABV. The magic with aging in the bottle is fantastic! An informative slide below states that the “toasty” character of aged Semillon is due to three compounds: Wine lactone (increased coconut & lime concentration). Phenylacetaldehyde (honey-like aroma) and TPB in combination. 2017 is 9 years old but seems still very young without yet enough complex tertiary development. Tyrrell’s has been using screw caps since 2004 so I asked Mark how the older vintages are progressing. He reported that they “are aging very well indeed under screwcap.” Find this treasure in any vintage and keep it a while for a future important celebration. Wonderful experience.

2. 2017 RIESLING THE CONTOURS, PEWSEY VALE EDEN VALLEY: Pewsey Vale makes a dependable good value Riesling; young vintages like 2024 show fresh citrus vibrancy. This wine, from The Contours block on the coolest higher-altitude slopes (1500 metres) using older (planted 1961) biodynamically farmed vines, shows distinctive Eden Valley terroir, with 2017 bottle age, textbook varietal petrol notes, and hints of lemongrass, cloves, fennel and honey-toast. Well done.

3. 2025 FIANO LOOSE CANNON, HUGH HAMILTON BAROSSA VALLEY: It’s great to see this new contemporary success of this Italian white variety from 2 vineyards fermented in stainless steel at 12.8% ABV, by Hugh Hamilton, who claims to be “Australia’s oldest surviving wine family” with a “Black Sheep spirit.” Different from the aromatic fruits of Fiano di Avellino DOCG, this wine is delightful in its own right served chilled with superb freshness and clean floral herbal perfumes. Enjoy how delicious it is already.

4. 2024 CHARDONNAY CIRCLE OF FIFTHS, GIANT STEPS YARRA VALLEY: As noted several times previously on this blog, Australian Chardonnay has evolved significantly, offering outstanding quality from so many diverse climatic regions including Adelaide Hills, Margaret River, Tasmania and this Yarra Valley. Giant Steps is another fine example, featuring the musical Circle of Fifths Chardonnay. It uses fruit from five hand-picked vineyard sites, undergoes whole-bunch pressing with wild yeast fermentation (no malolactic conversion) in 15% new French oak , and ages for 9 months on the lees without stirring. Classy, refined and lovely, it will gain further complexity over time.

5. 2023 PINOT NOIR DIXON, BINDI MACEDON RANGES: Similar to Australian Chardonnay, new regions are increasingly shining, including Adelaide Hills, Geelong, Gippsland, Mornington Peninsula, Tasmania (Tamar Valley & Sparkling in Pipers River), and Yarra Valley – plus others emerging. This cooler region, the Macedon Ranges (northwest of Melbourne), sits at higher altitudes, offering a more elegant style – a region to watch in a warming world. This Dixon selection of vines planted in 1988 & 2001 from Bindi, offers fragrant, bright Pinot Noir perfumes showing fresh earthy cherries on the palate at 14% ABV. Encouraging region to monitor.

6. 2024 GRENACHE SAND ROAD, HITHER & YON MCLAREN VALE: How this classic grape variety has evolved worldwide more positively over the past decades – including in Australian wine regions. Mark says, “Picking times have changed but not too early” is required. This mostly whole berry ferment in stainless steel with 10% whole bunch spends 14 months in larger 500-litre older wood. We both felt it was attractively refreshing and juicier, tasting more delicious than Grenache in earlier years. On the right track with this one at 14% ABV.

7. 2022 SHIRAZ VIOGNIER, CLONAKILLA CANBERRA DISTRICT: Co-fermented 94% Shiraz with about 6% Viognier on the skins for three weeks, followed by 12 months in French barriques and puncheons. Admire the lovely elegant aromatic aromas, along with the pure subtle harmonious balance, in this cooler vintage called “luminous” at only 13% ABV. An increasingly popular style.

8. 2021 KEYNETON EUPHONIUM, HENSCHKE BAROSSA VALLEY: A full-bodied blend at 14.5% ABV, consisting of 67% Shiraz, 29% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Merlot from top producer Henschke at a more reasonable price. It includes some 100-year-old vines fermented in open top concrete, then aged 18-20 months in French & American oak (20% new). Big, bold, and peppery, this needs more bottle time; it has intense fruit and many tannins. It’s a screw cap but still a powerful one for the cellar. We asked what “old vines” really means and the slide below provided the information: Old vines are 35+ years, Survivor vines are 70+, Centenarian vines are 100+, and Ancestor vines are 125+.

9. 2021 CABERNET SAUVIGNON TRUEMAN, HICKINBOTHAM MCLAREN VALE: This 100% Cab Sauv from the Clarendon Vineyard was basket-pressed into 60% new and used French oak barriques. It was then blended into four-year-old 4.8 KL foudres for 4 months before bottling in December 2022 at 14% ABV. This dense Cabernet Sauvignon has impressively concentrated boysenberry & plummy fruit with mocha and chocolate overtones. It will develop, soften, and round out with bottle age. There’s a lot to like in that unique terroir styling of Mclaren Vale.

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Question: Wasn’t it nearly 50 years ago that California first beat France in a wine tasting held in Paris? What are the details of that?

Answer: Yes, indeed, the 50th Anniversary of the famous Paris wine tasting held on May 24, 1976 by the late Steven Spurrier is coming up soon. Much activity is planned to celebrate it. On May 1, the Académie du Vin Library is releasing a new hardback book edited by Susan Keevil, “The Judgement of Paris – The Event That Shook The Wine World”: A Celebration Of The 50th Anniversary. Our International Wine & Food Society is organizing updated wine tastings, which several branches will host in commemoration. Should be exciting. Although the details of this wine tasting are widely available online, a useful, more recent summary in Time Magazine is here. It also contains a link to George M. Taber’s original coverage report from June 7, 1976. He later published a book on the subject as well. Stay tuned here for more extended coverage and insightful comments on these ongoing wine events.

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On March 17, IWFS Vancouver held a ten-year look at the highly rated 2015 Bordeaux vintage at the Culinary Commons newly opened by The Chefs’ Table Society of BC. A wonderful emerging space for the hospitality industry that has already assembled one of the largest cookbook collections. Your scribe conducted a wine tasting for the members, featuring nine chateaux for a detailed look at the 2015 vintage. We were also treated to a remarkable food sampling of nine different, tasty items presented in a colourful Bento Box prepared by talented sommelier/chef Van Doren Chan. Such diverse works of art from special abalone imported from Hong Kong, perfectly cooked duck breast, and exotic mushrooms, to shiro negi (Japanese leek) custard tart. All so delicious. Congrats! Many thanks.

The weather in Bordeaux from April to the end of July 2015 was very dry and hot resulting in smaller grapes with thick skins followed by a wetter August & cooler September. Accordingly, the 2015 vintage was initially released with optimistic recommendations also helped by four lesser years from 2011-2014. However, the following 2016 vintage rivalled or exceeded 2015 by also having density with better structure and balanced acidity. Interesting comparison of those two vintages. The 2015 vintage is variable, favouring the Margaux & Pessac-Léognan regions (like in 1983) because of more late-season rains in the upper Medoc. Alcohol levels range from 12.5–13% in the Medoc to 15–15.5% (Troplong Mondot) on the Right Bank. Here are some comments from my longer presentation, plus the tasting order based on the initial local purchase price:

2015 CHATEAU LE ROUDIER BORDEAUX SUPERIEUR $28.85: 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc from 25 hectares of Patrick Chevrier in Maransin near St. Emilion. Good clay soils for the Merlot, but needing more 2015 fruit intensity. At 13% ABV, it’s a bit thin and dry, but it would show much better paired with food, reflecting its refreshing Bordeaux styling. Value.

2015 CHATEAU FRANC LE MAINE ST. EMILION GRAND CRU $51.85: 61M/35CF/4CS blend from Vignobles Philippe Bardet, sourced from over 11 hectares south of Saint-Émilion on diverse clay, sand, & gravel soils with lower yields of 39 hl/ha. Dozens of properties use “Franc” in their name but the best one is Chateau Franc-Mayne so this Franc Le Maine is particularly confusing. Aged in barrels for 14-18 months, featuring 50% new oak, resulting in a darker, 14.5% ABV fruit-forward profile. Shows spicy red figgy fruit with underlying floral leafy herbal notes – very St. Emilion styled.

2015 CHATEAU HAUT BERGEY PESSAC-LEOGNAN $57.60: 47M/36CS/10Petit Verdot/7CF certified biodynamic grown on 42 hectares, mostly gravel in the heart of Leognan village near Domaine de Chevalier. Sylviane Garlin-Cathiard (sister of Daniel Cathiard & Florence who bought Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte in 1990; Daniel died this year) bought the property in 1991 though this 2015 is the first one produced by her brother Paul Garcin. Certified organic in 2017. Plush ripe cherries and spicy plums at 13.5% ABV with rounder, earthy, smoky complexity. Drinking on a lovely approachable plateau.

2015 CHATEAU BROWN PESSAC-LEOGNAN $63.35: 55CS/43M/2PV from the Mau family (previously negociants) who bought this property in 2004 and is ever on the improve with much vine replanting at higher density and natural trees environment plus consultant Stephane Derenoncourt. Bright and stylish with sweet fruit, tobacco, and notes of pepper/cinnamon all nicely structured at 14% ABV. No rush.

2015 LES FIEFS DE LAGRANGE ST. JULIEN $ 69.10: 55CS/41M/4PV is the second wine of Suntory’s Third Growth property, Château Lagrange since 1983. Lighter and more forwardly supple soft with some classy St. Julien terroir. The Grand Vin has more Cab Sauv for riper concentrated cassis complexity. However, this vintage of Les Fiefs has some greener herbal notes from younger vines and less-phenolic ripeness in the grapes. Enjoy it now.

2015 CHATEAU POTENSAC NORTH MEDOC $69.10: 45M/38CS/17CF from this remarkably consistent Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel, near Chateau Sociando-Malet, above St. Estèphe, made by the Delon Family team of Chateau Leoville Las Cases. A favorite of ours dating back to the seventies. Older vines and smart strict selection (only 55% used with 45% in La Chapelle de Potensac) work so well here. Admire the amazing quality level every year. Rich solid black currant intensity at 13.5% ABV, with lead pencil, graphite, and complexity. So juicy and delicious. Yes please!

2015 CHATEAU OLIVIER PESSAC-LEOGNAN $74.85: 58CS/40M/2PV from this historic impressive property dating back to the 12th century. Until recently, they were known more for their white Bordeaux. Improved bigger reds from lower yields show more depth and harmony from Famille Bethmann and Laurent Lebrun. However this vintage is almost too much at 14.5% ABV, featuring a thick, extracted, stewed, concentrated blend. Interesting, but perhaps it lacks finesse in not showing the elegant terroir to its best advantage. Still a Chateau on the move and one to watch for excellent current vintages like 2022.

2015 CHATEAU PIBRAN PAUILLAC $80.60: 50M/50CS vinified by the AXA team at Chateau Pichon Baron. Fall rains were not in favour of Pauillac & St. Estèphe, but top quality control worked well here. Mid weight at 13.5% ABV with classic cedar, cassis, and tobacco notes. Admire the purity, elegance, and charm, integrated with acid and tannins, using 50% new oak.

2015 CHATEAU MARQUIS DE TERME MARGAUX $103.60: 60CS/33M/7PV from another old 15th-century site, now a 40 hectare Fourth Growth from 1855. A complete modern renovation occurred in 2009 (with a restaurant added in 2018); the property started its organic process in 2013 and achieved certification in 2017. This vintage 2015 suffered delayed bud burst due to water stress, followed by a shutdown during veraison before welcome August rains unblocked the process. Experimenting with egg-shaped 600-liter concrete vats for additional minerality. This wine is sensational, offering a complex bouquet that includes licorice, sweet floral perfume, luscious palate density, and Margaux terroir finesse. Probably the best Marquis de Terme ever made. Clearly Wine of the Night!

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