The Sous-Commanderie de Vancouver of the Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin held their annual Summer Paulee extended lunch event on August 26, 2023 at Acquafarina, a Michelin Guide recommended fine-dining restaurant. Our always exciting Paulee events from previous years are posted on this Blog but the last time the theme was Grand Cru Chablis was in 2017 (and 2011) so the link dated September 4 is here. Your scribe describes the 7 Grand Cru vineyards in more detail on what makes them really unique. There also is another posting June 1, 2020 linked here of a Chablis tasting your scribe conducted on Zoom for The Wine & Food Society of Boston (est.1934) rating many vintages both pre-2010 & every year 2010- 2019 inclusive. Time for an update.

Grand Senechal George Loverock does excellent work with his Chef du Protocol Randy Rae in organizing these events. Well done. Admired how Cellier Blair Curtis chose “simpler” reds to match the outstanding 6 course cuisine by Executive Chef Jefferson Alvarez and his brigade so that the Grand Cru Chablis would be the stars. That 2009 Pavelot SLB Aux Guettes was not simple but great even if not quite as complex as their 2009 La Dominode. Another top highlight was the 2010 Butteaux 1er Cru from Francois Raveneau that shone so brightly as a Grand Cru wannabe of top quality. So young.

This opportunity to study and compare some 40 Grand Cru Chablis is irresistible for me who doesn’t take advantage of the wonderful social aspect of the Paulee but instead just intensely focuses on quickly tasting to get an overall impression on all the wines. Shown is the printed list of some 36 (but of course more were added by late comers) ranging from 2000 to 2021. The main producer was Domaine Wiliam Fevre (DWF) with about a dozen followed by half a dozen Domaine Christian Moreau (DCM) – both important suppliers to the British Columbia wine market. Les Clos (IMHO clearly the best cru) led the way with over 1/3 of them followed by Bougros (7), Preuses, Vaudesir (including Moutonne), Blanchots, Valmur and zero Grenouilles.

Knowledgeable member friend Ritchie Younger spoke briefly on the long history of the region and his concern of 10x growth of Chablis from 500 hectares in 1950 to 5800 in 2023. He thought all the wines were pretty solid but felt 2014 was clearly the best vintage. Agreed! He picked a Top 5 (different from mine) led by two Dauvissat Les Preuses 2016 & 2007 with 2014 Les Clos DCM 3rd, Faiveley 2009 Les Clos 4th, and his own mag of 2010 Les Preuses DWF 5th.

Your scribe was more critical with some pre-mox of older wines worrisome but probably bottle variation. Worst was 2008 Bougros DWF but usual fav Les Clos 2000 DWF & 2005 DCM both were maderizing – surprising for that long aging vineyard at 20 years.

2007: Variable not consistent with stormy April 21 and later hail but Dauvissat made a good selection with rounder Les Preuses approachable earlier than Les Clos.

2008: Less rain than Cote d’Or plus no hail, botrytis or rot in a later harvest gave more dry extract & glycerol as shown in Les Clos DWF.

2009: Bigger crop warmer less acidity often more grape-like Chardonnay called Beaunois (same in 2018 & 2019) than pure Chablis definition but Faiveley Les Clos well balanced with menthol licorice notes.

2010: Yields down intense minerality is perfect in Les Clos DWF but Les Preuses though fresh in Mag has a dank unclean nose. Decanting might have helped the bouquet.

2011: Rather cool rainy July, August, September resulted in lighter ready now style even for fuller Valmur DCM.

2012: Shorter crop irregular flowering lovely not as mineral as 2010.

2013: Difficult year with mushroom exotic notes but Drouhin-Vaudon Vaudesir a clean surprise.

2014: Classic dense with aromatic freshness. All the 2014 tasted showed a really outstanding vintage led by Les Clos DCM saline minerality complexity. The Louis Michel Les Clos (white pepper) & Vaudesir (coconut) plus Billaud-Simon (acquired in 2014 by Faiveley) Blanchots and Vaudesir Long-Depaquit (Bichot) were all bright, fresh, stylish and lighter bodied showing their individual cru distinct definition brilliantly.

2015: Atypically Burgundian rich earlier picking with harvest hail on August 31/September 1. Les Clos DCM on a delicious plateau.

2016: Frost hit April 26/27 plus May 13 & 27 followed by rain and warm Summer. Small crop is “patchy” but another special selection by Dauvissat Les Preuses for earlier enjoyment.

2017: Mid-April frosts for lower yields with energetic balance. Like the comment of Fabien Moreau DCM that it “took 10 vines to fill one basket in 2017 but only 1 vine/basket in 2018 bigger yields.

2018: Heat spikes softer rounded peachier style even in Les Clos and Olivier Leflaive Vaudesir.

2019: Also heat spikes but August was not as blisteringly hot so some balancing tension for the super concentrated Chardonnay-like style. Three Bougros are indeed defined by the usual generous and robust character of the cru but positively less earthy than usual. Not delicate or subtle.

2020: Some similarity to 2017 more classic style but not the 2014 outstanding balance of acidity. Early harvest that avoided the heat spikes of 2018 & 2019. Getting good wine reviews and the Moutonne monopole impresses with the rich classy complex structured flavours getting the 2nd highest score of 97 (behind 98 for Raveneau Les Clos) in the recent 2020 extensive horizontal tasting by Decanter.

2021: Complicated and inconsistent. Some are slimmer and softer. Fun to try the new Domaine Gueguen Bougros from Celine (daughter of J-M Brocard) & Frederic (from Dom. Durup). Watch out for them.

My Top 5:

1. 2014 Les Clos DCM
2. 2020 Moutonne Domaine Long-Depaquit (Albert Bichot)
3. 2010 Les Clos DWF
4. 2014 Les Clos Domaine Louis Michel
5. 2014 Vaudesir Domaine Louis Michel

Acquafarina is lucky to have the talented rising Sommelier star Evelyne Quinti as their Wine Director who did a wonderful difficult wine service all at perfect temperatures. Congrats.

Question: What is Strippagio?

Answer: Strippagio is an Italian word used mostly in connection with the tasting of olive oils to evaluate the quality of them. It is very similar to the English word Slurping which is more often used in wine tasting. Both describe a method whereby you suck air into your mouth to oxygenate the liquid to help intensify the overall aromas and sensory flavours that are released. Two very good descriptive words!

The Vancouver Group of Eight held their annual Summer dinner with spouses at Blue Water Cafe on August 15, 2023. The feature was eight younger California chardonnays served in two flights that were in a range of styles, mostly charming. Three French classy ringers opened and finished a most delightful wine & food evening:

2008 TAITTINGER COMTES DE CHAMPAGNE BLANC DE BLANCS GRAND CRU from an outstanding vintage uses only the first gentle pressing with 95% stainless (5% oak) with 10+ years on the lees. It showed a most impressive structure with concentrated energetic fruit intensity but a less developed bouquet of that trademark complex “creme patissiere” it will develop with more bottle age. Lovely.

1983 CHÂTEAU LAFITE ROTHSCHILD PAUILLAC EN MAGNUM paired elegantly with the main course of exquisite quail ballotine in a potato bird’s nest. Weather conditions in August 1983 were not as favourable in the Pauillac vineyards as further south in Margaux but careful selection of 66/30/7 Cab Sauv/Merlot/Cab Franc blend at 42 hl/ha yields plus 40 years has resulted in an enticing herbal tea spicy tobacco cedar bouquet with lively but fleshy softening evolved flavours. On a delightful plateau now and is helped by the fresher fruit in magnum format but IMHO is not as pure, rich, and complex as the outstanding 1983 Chateau PIchon Lalande.

2007 CHATEAU COUTET BARSAC was the surprise of the night – as Sauternes often are! Underrated vintage has full weight (richness of 2001) with balancing acidity (like1988) plus an intriguing level of botrytis in the long finish. Perfect with the dessert having similar flavours of peach, passion fruit, lemon orange citrus, and honey. What a dreamy match!

CALIFORNIA CHARDONNAY FIRST FLIGHT:

1. 2020 BERINGER PRIVATE RESERVE OAKVILLE
   All the grapes Clone 4 are sourced from Gamble Ranch and current vintages are moving towards a fresher style. However this one is 100% barrel fermented in French oak with full malo in a rich toasty, stirred sur lie creamy style. Your scribe found it a bit hot on the finish and the microscopic abv on the front label states 14.9 (but seems higher). Nonetheless others liked it more and voted it fav of the first flight. Value.
2. 2019 FRANK FAMILY VINEYARD CARNEROS
   Old historic stone winery from 1884 in Calistoga now owns over 450 acres of vineyards in the Napa Valley. Use here mainly their Lewis Vineyard plus neighbouring Carneros fruit from both Sonoma & Napa. French oak 100% BF & partial ML results in admirable smooth stylish well textured Chardonnay.
3. 2018 WALTER HANSEL CAHILL LANE VINEYARD RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY
   Underrated winery producing quality pinot noirs plus good value wines. This Cahill Lane was only 907 cases showing stylish Chardonnay fruit with a nice touch of charming elegance at 14 abv.
4. 2019 KISTLER LES NOISETIERS SONOMA COAST
   Famous Chardonnay producer from old Wente clones on sandy Goldridge soils using Burgundian techniques. They have many different vineyard selections all unfined & unfiltered but this is an entry level one from Les Noisetiers surrounding their winery on the Sonoma Coast of 344 barrels at 14.3. Juicy fruit with some minerality.
   Rather tasty.

CALIFORNIA CHARDONNAY SECOND FLIGHT

5. 2020 SEA SMOKE STA. RITA HILLS SANTA BARBARA
   Estate grown grapes hand picked chilled overnight and softly pressed followed by 24% new oak and 10 months battonage. Result is a clean pure elegant stylish balanced Chardonnay more expensive but delicious second flight popular choice winner.
6. 2018 FLOWERS SONOMA COAST
   Founders Joan & Walt Flowers were early pioneers of the unique spirit and sense of place provided by the Sonoma Coast. Pure vibrant lower alcohol 13.5 with salty pineapple bright acidity notes are so elegant and no rush to drink up as should develop further interest.
7. 2016 RAMEY ROCHIOLI VINEYARD RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY
   Their second vintage from this special RRV vineyard has developed really rich creamy textures with some time in bottle. Much more weighty body than RRV from Walter Hansel showed. Longer 20 months time in 21% new French oak with powerful dense solid structure. Drinking beautifully now not showing the 14.5 abv.
8. 2015 THE OJAI VINEYARD PUERTA DEL MAR SANTA BARBARA
   Planted 6 acres in 2007 in that cold vineyard “Door to the Sea” and this 2015 is the 5th release of 563 cases from Helen & Adam Tolmach. Visit their Tasting Room right in downtown Ojai which we hope survived the 5.1 earthquake there yesterday. Only 13.5 alcohol and 7% new French oak displays tension and energy in this refreshing Chardonnay. Bottle variation between the two bottles.

Question: What is the most planted grape variety used for wine in Spain?

Answer: Many of you are expecting it to be Tempranillo but it is Airen (pronounced i-REHN) a vitis vinifera white variety mainly grown in central Spain particularly the La Mancha region.

Lots of recent articles expressing the growing concern about the effect of climate change around the world on established terroir vineyards. Certainly becoming easier to obtain ripe higher sugar grapes at harvest time but less so in finding the ideal acidity with other elements for perfect elegant balance in the resulting wine. Lots of measures being taken from grape selection, canopy management to earlier picking dates but the jury is still out on their ultimate success in retaining the recognized respected Burgundy style. No doubt about it though as Bob Dylan would sing “The Times They Are A-Changin'” for wine terroirs everywhere.

However, one of the positive results of climate change your scribe has noticed more recently is the big improvement at the lower end of white Burgundy. Easy to admire the continuing classy complexity (if not the escalating prices) of Meursault Perrieres or Chevalier-Montrachet but it has been harder to find interest in Bourgogne Blanc. Sure there were exceptions like the old well-tended vines of hallmark producer Coche-Dury Bourgogne Blanc and a few others. But generally at the bottom end you were getting wines that showed lighter thinner higher acidity not quite ripe fruit at higher yields often from younger vines and cooler sites. Not anymore. Many of those non-classified vineyards including outreaching Hautes Cotes de Beaune and even Hautes Cotes de Nuits are now ripening the Chardonnay fruit much better and producing wines with subtle apricot, pear, and peach notes rather than just high apple-citrus. Sure they don’t have the body of a Puligny-Montrachet but they are rather delicious even early on and at fair value. Perfect for what you want from a current purchase. Also, don’t forget the much improved Village AC wines instead of just restricting your buys to Premier Cru & Grand Cru selections.

The BCLDB, private wine stores, and Vancouver restaurants are becoming aware of this new trend and are importing accordingly. Tasted many available Village & Bourgogne wines during 2023 and am impressed most by the earlier harvested 2020 vintage whites (after larger crop 2018 & smaller crop 2019) tending to a fresher pure more classic style. Challenging small crop 2021, and surprising 2022 plus unique 2023 should also land some treasures.

One of my favs 2020 Chassagne-Montrachet by Philippe Colin 13 abv is stylish aged in larger oak (450 & 500L) with a lovely balancing acidity which will age well throughout this decade to enjoy with a special meal. As well the 2020 Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge Les Chenes by Philippe Colin grown in deeper clay soils shows bright sweet cherries (not over-ripe 13.5 abv) and structure to evolve nicely. Cult Wines have brought in Domaine Gros Frere (Lutte Raisonnee) Bourgogne Blanc Hautes Cotes de Nuits. Last week for dinner at ELISA STEAKHOUSE (another Toptable group excellent restaurant) the comprehensive wine list developed by Wine Director Franco Michienzi shone brightly including young appropriate white Burgundies – see excerpt attached. After our discussion that we desired a tighter almost Chablis-like mineral salinity type Bourgogne Blanc to go with their outstanding whole grilled Branzino with covolo nero (Tuscan black kale), Franco recommended 2020 Domaine Francois Mikulski at 13 abv that was so perfectly paired to the dish plus so delicious. Q.E.D.