Your scribe has enjoyed eating chicken as long ago as I can remember. It started out with plain dishes, mostly deep fried, recalling our local White Spot (started in BC in 1928 coming up soon to their century mark) with their delicious Chicken Pickin’ and Chicken in the Straw. A different take on the then-popular US chains of Kentucky Fried Chicken, Chick-fil-A, Church’s, and Popeyes. For a while, I thought tenderness was the most important quality to seek for the best chicken and therefore used a marinating technique overnight with buttermilk or yogurt. Even tried the Chinese tender cooking trick of adding baking soda. I grew into other dishes like Butter chicken, a la King, Piccata, Kiev, BBQ and Cordon Blue. Made a point of dining at Zuni Cafe whenever in San Francisco to admire their special roasted chicken. Recently I rather prefer a simpler natural Chicken Under A Brick preparation or anything using the chicken thighs – arguably the tastiest part of the chicken!

Preferred now to use free range birds and the need for better quality fowl in order to produce a top chicken dish. Not wanting rubber chicken! In France we cherish the “Poulet de Bresse” and have ordered it over the years at many restaurants prepared in different ways by a plethora of MIchelin recognized chefs.

Last month while in Burgundy we visited L’Hotel De Beaune for the ultimate treat of the world’s best whole roasted Bresse chicken. Appreciated knowledgeable Elpie Marinakis co-owner & Managing Director of the Wedgewood Hotel & Spa for her reliable culinary personal recommendation to me. The menu offers “Les Specialites du Bistro” which serves Poulet de Bresse at a total price of 100 Euros or Poularde de Bresse for 120 both serving two persons. They are similar but the Poularde is plumper and bred for a longer 5 months in a meadow rather than the usual 4 months for the Poulet. This was clearly the very best flavour of pure chicken we ever have tasted. Simply roasted to ideal perfection with the most amazing tender juicy magical wonderful intense taste of chicken that you could possibly imagine. My highest recommendation. Returning to Burgundy next Spring 2024 and look forward to ordering it again. Worth a detour and a must item on your bucket list. Enjoy!

Question: The 2023 Bordeaux harvest seems to have had some issues with mildew, especially on some Merlot grapes. Would you please simply explain what causes mildew?

Answer: Mildew, sometimes called powdery mildew, is a microbial disease caused by a fungus on the grapes. Early canopy management can be an important tool in preventing the moist environment that allows mildew to thrive. Wine made with grapes affected by mildew can show less quality aromatics with sometimes earthy botrytis notes. A couple of interesting articles for more details are “Grape Powdery Mildew” December 2015 by the British Columbia MInistry of Agriculture here and Jamie Goode dated March 27, 2020 “Wine science: powdery mildew, the wine world’s biggest problem” here.

Domaine Comte Georges De Vogue is a respected Estate in Chambolle-Musigny with a long history dating back to 1450 with the same ownership over 20 generations. Extraordinary indeed. Your scribe has been an intensive student of them for many decades dating back to a historic tasting organized by Tawfiq Khoury for KPBS radio fundraiser in San Diego on October 24, 1984. Reference is made on pages 59-60 in my 2012 Monograph for IWFS titled “An Appreciation of the Age Of Wine” noting that “we compared Comte de Vogue Musigny (generally more elegant) with Bonnes Mares (generally more round and full) in pairs from 1979 back to 1934. The tasting highlighted the terroir differences with preferences for Musigny Vieilles Vignes 1971, 1949 (MIchael Broadbent told me that this was his favourite), 1945 (in magnum), 1937, and 1934.” Another less extensive but interesting update was held by the IWFS in Puerto Rico on April 24, 1998 led by Estate Manager Jean-Luc Pepin featuring 1992 & 1972 vintages plus a comparison of rich fruit but a bit bottle inconsistent 1990, lighter charming 1989, and tannic higher acidity 1988. In Vancouver for the 2012 IWFS World Festival on September 13 a wine tasting was conducted by Jean-Luc Pepin and your scribe featuring the backward 2008 vintage plus a mini-vertical of Musigny VV of young 2006, delightful 2002 and classic 1999.

Many visits to the Domaine during the tenure of winemaker Francois Millot from 1986 until his retirement in 2021. Great anticipation for my first visit on October 12, 2023 with the new head winemaker Jean Lupatelli (the nephew of Aubert de Villaine of DRC) tasting the miracle vintage 2022 in barrel. Asked Jean Lupatelli the early differences he saw between 2023 & 2022 but advised by him that hard to summarize presently as both were hot years but 2022 was drier and easier to ferment than 2023 that was more difficult. At this point of evolution it is hard to say but he is pleased at the moment with the wonderful 2022s. Easy to see why!

2022 CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY: Fresh vibrant 1.8+ hectares picked by hand in late September. 50% whole bunch.

2002 BONNES MARES Grand Cru: South location is key with limestone and a lot of clay producing 25 barrels from 2.67 hectares of total AC 15.06. Well structured with beautiful tannins. 50% whole bunch. Shows the miracle result of 2022.

2022 LES AMOUREUSES Premier Cru: Again using 50% whole bunches on their .56 hectare parcel out of total 5.4. Asked him if he was not worried about losing the typical charm, delicacy and elegance of this special climate. He said yes but the owners want made the best aging wine possible and he is confident that this new whole bunch method will work successfully. Certainly shows charm, elegance plus power and structure. Impressive indeed!

2022 MUSIGNY Grand Cru: Large holdings here of 7.12 hectares out of 10.85. 50% whole bunches again. So many flowers, herbs, light pepper spice aromas opening in the glass. Texture and vibrancy of the dense pure fruit is really outstanding. Tried another barrel from a northern portion of the oldest vines that is even more intense. Can’t believe the truly superb entry with buckets of fruit and admirable layers. Perfect new oak influence. Has amazing structure with tannins kicking in on mid-palate with a long finish. These are what I call super structured complex barrel samples. All of these wines for sure should develop into collectible cellar treasures. Congrats.

Question: Liked your interesting Blog on the typical white and red Burgundy aromas. One of the 12 you listed was Empyreumatic Family. Would you please explain further?

Answer: At the Cite in Beaune they explained it as “burnt smoked coffee roasting toast mocha grilled almonds these aromas are linked to the toasting process in the manufacture of oak barrels for wine aging”

Hope this helps.

Your scribe this month visited the exciting new models of viticulture in Bourgogne opened in Chablis May 17, 2023 and Beaune June 17, 2023 but not the one in Macon. They impressively show the history and development over 2000 years and the diversity of the regions including different vineyard soil profiles. Lots to study and learn. Spent most time in Beaune reviewing lots of detailed displays and useful information including the origins of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Especially enjoyed smelling the typical Bourgogne aromas displayed in large containers shown as attachments here:

FLORAL FAMILY, WHITE FLOWERS
FAMILY OF FRESH FRUITS, CITRUS FRUIT
FAMILY OF FOODS, WHEY
FAMILY OF DRIED FRUITS
CONFECTIONERY FAMILY
FAMILY OF VANILLA, OAK
EMPYREUMATIC FAMILY
FAMILY OF RED FRUITS, BLACK FRUITS
FAMILY OF CANDIED FRUITS
FAMILY OF SPICES
FAMILY OF UNDERGROWTH
ANIMAL FAMILY

These facilities are wonderful Bourgogne foundations of wine knowledge for any enthusiast of their wines. HIghly recommended on your next visit to the region. Will give you expanded insights.