Question: I know from your excellent Blog that you like old vines. What is happening with producing a list of them?
Answer: Yes, a very timely question! Just launched is an OLD VINE REGISTRY (initially funded by the Jackson Family Wines) that is a valuable growing database reference resource for all of us. It already lists some 2200 vineyards around the world led by Portugal far ahead with more than 800. They have used a rather low 35-year-old minimum vine age. Lots more vineyards than on the initial launch already are exceeding that level. An excellent review dated June 29, 2023 on Wine-Searcher has been posted by Wink Lorch here.
Last month in Vancouver your scribe attended a wine tasting event well organized by the Consorzio Valpolicella which promoted the appellation showing wines of “improved excellence with guaranteed certified quality”. There are 3 specific geographic all DOC zones of just basic Valpolicella, “Classico” & “Valpantena”. Some wonderful blends from 11 valleys (8573 hectares of vineyards) in northern Italy tasted lovely using 4 main grapes Corvina (minimum 45% to maximum 95% providing backbone, aromas. and softness), Corvinone (45-95 structure), Rondinella (5-30 more colour), and Molinara (0-10 freshness paler colour). These Valpolicella wines showed drinkable abv levels and are under the radar for good value. In 2021 the region produced 73.6 million bottles with 47% Ripasso, 27% Valpolicella, and 26% Amarone & Reciota with 61% for export to 87 countries. There also was a special seminar spotlighting 10 Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG with vintages from 2019 back to 2012 presented by knowledgeable “WineDiva” Deanna van Mulligen. These Amarone (plus even some of the Ripasso DOC using refermentation of Valpolicella on the pomace of Amarone) showed for me noticeable alcohol particularly on the finish. Got this scribe thinking – what is an acceptable abv for a red (or white) table wine?
As a lawyer I got used to the old TTB regulations in the USA for table wine showing on the label between 7 to 13.9 ABV with an allowed variation of 1.5 percent (or only 1 if 14+). Now fortified or dessert wines are classified at 16+ (used to be 14) with a higher tax rate. Used to be no problem but now with climate change it is becoming a much bigger one for wines around the world. Even Barolo & Barbaresco which used to be around 13/14 are now commonly at 14.5/15. Note that the lowest abv in the Amarone tasting was 15 for the 2012 and some listed at 16.5 and even 17. Reminds me of a previous old exception in California of some 17 abv powerful Zinfandels produced by Helen Turley at Marcassin. We know it depends not just on the simple alcohol level but the total package of whether the wine is full of concentrated ripe fruit, acidity, tannins, and other important elements to make it balanced. However your scribe ponders how high an alcohol level is acceptable for you in a table wine?
Your scribe can be outspoken but obviously this question was on the minds of other more diplomatic attendees at the seminar as shown by their questions (expanded for more detail by me) to Deanna. Is it possible to produce more Rose from this region? Suggest refining both 170 cm. traditional Pergola vine training (now at 75%) and newer 80-90 cm. Guyot (25%) for better grape canopy shade protection? What about adding more stems during the fermentation to take up some of the alcohol? Can they dry the grapes in the “fruttaio” for a shorter time than the usual 100/120 days so there is still more water & less concentration of sugar? Can they make and promote in the dessert category more sweet (50+g/l residual sugar) Recioto della Valpolicella DOCG with stopped fermentation before complete dryness at a lower alcohol (minimum abv is 12 vs Amarone 14)?
The Consorzio suggests pairing Amarone with “meat courses, game, matured cheeses, but it can also be appreciated alone, as a pleasant “meditation wine”. For Recioto the suggestion is “this sweet wine is particularly suited for dessert, chocolate and cheese pairings.” Interesting matching ideas for a controversial question. For me and my more delicate palate (not drinking spirits) my own self-imposed upper ceiling is still around 15 abv for dry or off-dry table wines with food. What about you?
Answer: A grape variety (being a cross of between Madeleine Angevin & Gewurztraminer) used to produce white wines. Originated in Germany but now is being grown in England and Canada finding better acidity balance. Tasted recently true examples of the Siegerrebe variety from Blue Grouse Estate Winery and Rocky Creek Winery on Vancouver Island and Chaberton from the Fraser Valley all within British Columbia Canada. Check it out.
The Antinori history dates back to 1385 with the famous wine family presently at 26 generations and growing. The modern era began with Marchese Piero Antinori (who took over in 1966 from his father Niccolo) and later joined by his 3 daughters Albiera, Allegra, and Alessia. Their influence on Tuscan wine has been enormous over the past decades with innovations that already have become historic. Among them was the establishment of the so-called Super Tuscan of International grapes blended with the native Sangiovese grape. The first one was Sassicaia but other important milestones were Tignanello followed by Solaia.
Our Vancouver Group of Eight (Event #111) enjoyed an outstanding function on June 20, 2023 over dinner at Blue Water Cafe reflecting on the amazing Antinori contributions to the world wine scene and tasting eight vintages of Tignanello. All of this was made possible due to the kind generosity of member Fred Withers in donating all wines for the evening from his collection. Many thanks. Some excellent bottles indeed.
The aperitif was a unique Grower Champagne located south of the Côte de Blancs near Sézanne of ULYSSE COLLIN LES MAILLONS BLANC DE NOIRS EXTRA BRUT Lot 12 Vintages Blend Disgorged February 2016. I was first introduced to this very perfumed apple “Burgundian” style with less bubbles at the restaurant of Chef Thomas Keller at PER SE in New York. Worth checking out.
The digestif was one of the very best Sauternes vintages 2001 from a top property CHATEAU SUDUIRAUT that displayed a rich golden colour (with lots of tartaric crystals in the bottom of the bottle) with a complex “dried sweet apricots” bouquet exquisitely matched to the apricot tartlet dessert.
The main tasting was eight vintages of Tignanello plus a mystery wine in two flights cleverly orchestrated by Fred (see his comment sheet with excerpts and tasting notes quoted from Wine Spectator) to start with the cooler years and finish with the more classic riper Sangiovese vintages.
Tignanello was previously spotlighted on this Blog here on February 29, 2016 with some useful background and some tasting notes for the underrated 2009 and the first one 1971 (100% Sangiovese). Also important to note that the first 20 vintages were by the winemaker Giacomo Tachis with influence from Emile Peynaud from Bordeaux to emphasize more in that style. 1982 was the start of the blend in current use and since the 90s Renzo Cotarella has brilliantly evolved the classic style with more finesse & grace. Note that between 2008 & 2009 there was a complete renovation of the vinification cellar which helped the ever-improving quality. Some brief impressions from your scribe:
FIRST FLIGHT: 2009 TIGNANELLO: Fresh, bright, and savoury So elegant and stylish. Approaching “Brunello style” (but not 100% Sangiovese). Paired so well with the rich Oxtail Cappelletti course. First flight favourite Tignanello of both Fred and myself.
2006 TIGNANELLO: Cooler year shows on both the nose and palate. Some mocha spice plus vibrancy but noticeable acidity with less classic definition.
2005 TIGNANELLO: Darker look goes deep right to the rim. Riper than 2006 with middle fruit consistency. Touch of floral teas with smoky pepper.
1999 TIGNANELLO: Lighter maturing colour. Delightful herbaceous minty bouquet lovely for current drinking. Popular group choice.
SECOND FLIGHT:
2008 TIGNANELLO: This has much riper stylish Sangiovese cherries compared to the first flight. Obviously, well-selected consistent pure fruit used here. Admire the perfect balance and the wonderful textures. Like this statement made far more than the Wine Spectator 93 rating. Perhaps continuing to improve with more aging in the bottle?
2007 TIGNANELLO: Fine lively but leaner than 2008 showing good plummy fruit with excellent elegance. A bit reluctant at first and this bottle is not the impressive depth of mid-flavours and length of the 2008 one.
2004 TIGNANELLO: Bouquet seems cooler and greener than expected. Leather tobacco is developing. Flavours are rather typical but starting to dry out. This bottle doesn’t warrant the highest score of 98 given by Wine Spectator for comparison. Bottle variation? 2004 could have been in the first flight in exchange with the 2009.
1997 TIGNANELLO: Some Bordeaux-like aged bouquet on the nose. Lovely. Structure is good with sous-bois flavours but not as complex as a Super Second. Drinking well with Rabbit “Porchetta” main course.
2004 SOLAIA: Mystery wine served blind. Dark deep appearance right to the edge. Young bigger dense fruit concentration is remarkable. Complex! Easy to guess as Solaia with the textbook Left Bank Cabernet Sauvignon obviously there. Guessed 2002 Solaia (only one produced with 100% Cabernet). Usually it is around 75% Cab Sauv & 25 % Sangiovese. Note that the first one was in 1978 and no Solaia was made in 80, 81, 83, 84, and 92. Great mirror opposite contrast in style to the Tignanello of 80% Sangiovese with less Cab.
Question: Are there going to be rule changes coming to Gran Selezione Chianti Classico?
Answer: Yes the Chianti Classico Consorzio have now agreed to make regulatory changes mostly starting with the 2027 vintage (2030 release) for Gran Selezione (which was introduced in 2014). Summary:
1) Permitting (but not required) to be named on wine labels revised geographic sub-divisions called UGA (additional geographical units) on Gran Selezione. Encouraging a sense of “place” for Chianti Classico.
2) Raising minimum Sangiovese now at 80% to 90%. Note Brunello di Montalcino now is at 100%.
3) Restricting remaining 0% to 10% allowed to only native Italian grape varieties and not international ones. Encouraging traditional Chianti styling.
