Archive for the ‘Uncategorized’ Category

Château Figeac has been a good friend of your scribe for over 50 years. I first got to know it back in 1970 as a friendly neighbouring property to Chateau Montlabert (written up here on April 26, 2021) where I stayed then and on several later visits to Bordeaux. Many wonderful events were gracefully hosted by the Manoncourts at their Figeac home plus they generously contributed outstanding bottles on other occasions. A very memorable one was a dinner “Millesimes De Collection” on June 15, 1999 held at Chateau Beausejour (Heritiers Duffau Lagarrosse) where the top 12 St. Emilion properties collaborated for contributing wines starting with the 1989 vintage and going back to the 4 oldest of complex unique fruit 64 Cheval Blanc, spectacular bouquet 61 Trottevielle, browner sweet forwardly 55 La Gaffeliere and chocolate/mocha big amazing tannins of most youthful 49 Figeac at 50 years of age!

Somewhat frustrating for many that distinctive Chateau Figeac wasn’t promoted to the highest St Emilion classification of Premier Grand Cru Classe “A” until September 2022 under the new management regime headed by talented winemaker Frederic Faye. With a brand new state-of-the art cellar, more cabernet sauvignon planted, and conscientious attention to detail for pure precise wines it is well deserved now – and probably earlier.

Therefore it was with excited anticipation to attend a dinner at Forage restaurant on February 12, 2024 held by the Commanderie de Bordeaux Vancouver under the able leadership of Fred Withers for a vertical of 9 vintages served wisely from oldest to youngest. Knowledgeable Ian Mottershead provided a detailed introduction to the property from the Manoncourt family acquisition in 1892 through the history of the great Thierry Manoncourt (1917-2010).

We started off by two whites 2012 & 2010 from CHATEAU SMITH HAUT LAFITTE BLANC both had aged well using around 32hl/ha yield with a 90% Sauvignon Blanc, and 5% each of Sauvignon Gris & Semillon. 2012 was bigger richer and more complex with a higher 14 abv finish while 2010 was very sauvignon in a lovely lighter more elegant style at 13.5.

A few personal comments on the 9 Figeac wines:

1983 CHÂTEAU FIGEAC: Lovely open enticing floral bouquet made this a mature popular group choice. Showed better charm tonight than on many earlier tries (including here on October 4, 2021) where more drying “herbal dill green olives” notes. Drink.

1985 CHÂTEAU FIGEAC: Bottle variation. Mine has a paling rim with a touch of TCA corky too rustic. Other bottles showed better Merlot spice but disappoints in this vintage. Drink.

1986 CHÂTEAU FIGEAC: Much better younger red colour compared to 83 & 85. Typical lovely Figeac terroir of fresh cherries and solid structured Cabernet tannic grip impress. Excellent & should develop
further.

1989 CHÂTEAU FIGEAC: Dark to rim with similar depth of 86. Attractive bouquet of licorice, cloves, & Provencal herbs. Like the elegant smooth textures with sweet anise seed flav. Not that concentrated but a rich intensity. Well done. Delicious with the duck. My fav of First Flight.

1990 CHÂTEAU FIGEAC: Second Flight off on a fast stunning start with 1990 which is deeper red look plus touch jammy ripe figs with earthy mushrooms. Harder Cabernet tannins than 1989 but not as seductively styled. Fred’s favourite wine of the tasting!

2000 CHÂTEAU FIGEAC: Ten years younger with much younger impressive fruit depth. Very perfumed exotic nose of tobacco, spice and Cabernet. Refined tannins are integrated now developing more finesse elegance and complexity. Stylish. Showing magnificently on the plateau of enjoyment. Matches lamb and grilled octopus choices.

2005 CHÂTEAU FIGEAC: Made by Eric D’Armon using 100% new oak at 37hl/ha. Outstanding Bordeaux vintage brought big expectations for me. Not disappointed with dense classic graphite Figeac styling (showing 35% each of both Cabs & 30% Merlot) but softer yet not singing presently. Promise.

2008 CHÂTEAU FIGEAC: Lower yields 29hl/ha and long 20 months in 100% new oak results in surprise of the night. Dark purple. Already rather soft & smooth. Leaner and less ripe year but much better than
expected.

2015 CHÂTEAU FIGEAC: New regime statement here. Hot year but fresh and polished. Quite supple already for the buckets of fruit. Label states 14 abv while 08 & 05 both 13.5 and earlier years at 13. Several 100 point scores for this high Cab Sauv 43%, 29% Merlot & 28% Cab Franc blend. Long cellaring future.Your scribe prefers the more balanced structure in 2016 which IMHO approaches closer to that elusive perfection. Figeac is on the right track for sure.

Question: Is there a listing in 2024 for specific days celebrating various wine types?

Answer: Yes a Calendar listing dates for specific wine grape recognition! It has nearly gotten out-of-hand with the plethora of different grapes now out there for international recognition. Suggest you check a good Calendar here from Wine Country with more detailed explanations for each one. Your scribe likes among others Chardonnay on May 23rd & Pinot Noir on August 18th. Always a wonderful idea for an excuse to celebrate different wines.

The Vancouver Branch of The International Wine & Food Society is an admirable template for other groups to follow. Leaders Milena & Jim Robertson work splendidly in organizing unique functions for their enthusiastic members that include interesting wine and food. As our Founder Andre L. Simon stated in his last book In The Twilight: “meals deserving to be gratefully remembered – Memorable Meals. ” On February 7, 2024 talented Chef Andrey Durbach closed his restaurant Impostori Trattoria (Italian food) for our members’ function to cook some of his family dishes for a most memorable meal. The Austro-Hungarian Menu prepared was especially done with unique courses including “Pot Roasted Duck, Grandmother’s Way” all appropriately paired with wines from that region. It was a learning experience with the Chef’s insightful comments on each dish and it was also so delicious tasting. A friendly warm well deserved accolade on the meal was delivered by member fellow Chef John Blakeley. More details on the event with photos are here posted on the IWFS Vancouver website. A few additional personal notes on these wines:

CHATEAU DERESZLA 2015: Methode Traditionnelle Sparkler made from two important grapes grown of Furmint & Harslevelu in the Tokaj region in Hungary aged 14 months on the lees showed well with elegant balanced acidity plus a touch of spice for the gougeres.

DISZNOKO 5 PUTTONYOS TOKAJI ASZU 2012: 100% Furmint with sweet orange honey nuts seductive styling at 12 abv from historical best site matches perfectly with the foie gras parfait and apple crepe.

PINOT GRIGIO ALTO ADIGE DOC 2022 KLOSTER NEUSTIFT bottled by ABBAZIA DI NOVACELLA: Pure Italian variety of melon-pear aromas plus full bodied ripe 13.5 abv palate pairs well with flavourful Arctic Char.

BLAUFRANKISCH 2021 JUDITH BECK: 100% the red grape (here organic & biodynamic) from Beck family estate in Burgenland N. E. Austria at 12.5 abv naturally fermented in oak barrels (plus aged 10 months). Juicy spicy drinking with softer tannins for an amazing duck course!

CABERNET FRANC 2018 RUSSIZ SUPERIORE COLLIO DOC MARCO FELLUGA: From hilly northeast Italy it shows good fruit with some slightly greener character of this growing in popularity and highly rated 100% variety but is fresh and balanced at 13.5 abv. Very drinkable with authentic goulash.

OLD FALCON PLUM BRANDY “Eau-de-Vie de Prune” Stara Sokolova Radisav Bogdanovic Family: Traditional Slivovitz from Serbia but at a higher quality level distilled in small batches using a recipe through 7 generations resulting in an aromatic smooth 40 abv.

An original fun idea for an excellent IWFS memorable event. Suggest you try it. What unique culinary event spotlighting wines & food from a less-discovered region have you recently attended? Please let us know.

Question: Who said wine was the most healthful beverage?

Answer: Louis Pasteur. A French chemist who discovered pasteurization and other innovative scientific procedures. The actual quote is “Wine is the most healthful and most hygienic of beverages.” This is most topical with the current issues raised against any alcohol consumption including wine – as not being healthy. Another good one by him is “A bottle of wine contains more philosophy than all the books in the world.” In fact, he had many excellent wine quotes with some listed here on Good Reads. Interesting perspective!

Eating cooked (or raw for sushi fans) fresh wild fish is a longtime favourite dining experience treat for your scribe. In the old days supplies of wild fish were abundant (even Atlantic Cod & Chinook King Salmon) and much easier for fishers to catch. They were commonly found in supermarkets at low prices that were affordable for everyone. Fast forward many decades later where supply is more limited with many wild fish species endangered and a substantially increased demand (including the influences of a healthy diet) has resulted in an expensive ticket.

One type of fish IMHO still has a very good QPR score. This is Flatfish which can come in many varieties ranging from a simple thin sustainable Flounder or popular Plaice to a delicious tasty Turbot or nutty firm Dover Sole. My fav continues to be a thicker sweet delicate and flaky Petrale Sole (in Europe a similar Lemon Sole). It is available freshly caught locally nearly every Friday at my local Vancouver fish market. They sort the thicker Petrale (which they label as Brill) from the thinner Flounder fish but still at a reasonable retail price of $18.99/lb Canadian. Petrale has a nostalgic warm spot for me having enjoyed it many times cooked at its finest during the late seventies and early eighties heyday of two amazing San Francisco restaurants Tadich Grill (on California Street is the oldest continuously run restaurant in California from 1849 and 3rd in the USA) and Sam’s Grill (from 1867 now on Bush Street 5th oldest in the USA). Long line-ups taking no reservations but a wonderful wine corkage fee of $1 or less. The Sand Dabs were also excellent! Usually brought along a California Chardonnay to match with the grilled fish which were great value and so tasty even produced from young vines. My records show us drinking Judgement of Paris winner 1973 Chateau Montelena & 1973 Freemark Abbey (both bought $6.50/btl & $70.20/case) while more money were three other 1973 Napa chardonnays of Mayacamas ($7/$75.60), Spring Mountain & Heitz Pinot Chardonnay Lot Z-32 (both $7.50/$81) and Hanzell (Sonoma $8). The good old days for sure. Today still enjoy regularly excellent thick local Petrale but often paired with a lively mineral Chablis. The last few weeks have been forwardly rich 2020 Butteaux 1er Cru Domaine Servin & remarkable now 90 year old vines from Christian Moreau – the outstanding complex 2015 Vaillon Cuvee Guy Moreau.

Look for value fresh fish in your local market which will undoubtedly taste somewhat different depending on their habitat and feeding patterns. What is your best QPR fish?