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Archive for March, 2024

Newer Entries

PICHON LALANDE CONSISTENTLY EXCELS WITH BOTH OLDER VINTAGES BY MAY-ELIANE DE LENCQUESAING & NEWER WINES BY NICOLAS GLUMINEAU

March 11th, 2024 by Joseph Temple

Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande is a Second Growth Pauillac Grand Cru Classé in the 1855 Classification. Since 1978 (plus some vintages before) this property has been a deserving Super Second with an amazing record of consistently fine wines first under the indomitable spirit of May-Elaine de Lencquesaing and more recently the conscientious musical direction of Nicolas Glumineau. Lots of memorable experiences with M-EdL & PL many recorded on this Blog linked here from June 18, 2013, June 15, 2020, and February 14, 2022. May’s elegant wines were often balanced with more Merlot & Petit Verdot that have stood well the taste of time. Over the last ten years NG has planted more Cabernet Sauvignon, reducing the Merlot component and adding more Cabernet Franc & less Petit Verdot in the blend. Riper fruit but expecting them to also age. Appreciate his recent reply to my question on vintage styles as follows:

2023: Combines the “mineral depth of 2020, sharp powdery tannic structure of 2019, and the vibrant energy of 2010 & 2005”.

2022: NG says it is “between 2020 & 2015” plus growing some white grapes making 150 liters of 2022 Chardonnay & Savagnin (he likes the Jura) after thinking about trying Chenin Blanc but deciding no chalky soil for elegance. Another plot has Chardonnay, Semillon, and Gros Manseng.

May built and cherished a wonderful Museum of Glass. Nicolas recommends discovering PL vintages accompanied by music: a new interpretation of the PL tannins of 2016 with Radiohead & 2014 Kate Bush. Your scribe likes his suggestion of listening to No Quarter by Led Zeppelin while enjoying the 2010. He prefers his PL 2020 to 2019. Ask Sid Wine Wednesday awarded @PichonComtesse the best social media coverage of the 2023 harvest on October 11, 2023 here.

May has authored a fantastic new book in French (being translated into English) by Tallandier called “Les vendanges d’un destin – De Bordeaux à l’Afrique du Sud”. She kindly included at the back twelve pages under “Souvenirs et Moments Partages” reminiscences requested from your scribe submitted in English but presently translated into French.

On February 13, 2024 Event #119 of the Vancouver Group of 8 at Blue Water Cafe celebrated a PL Vertical update. A few brief comments:

With a superb Dungeness Crab Salad we had the fresh vibrant in a softer style of 2014 (not 2005 as shown on the menu) of 61PN/39C with 8g/l dosage, disgorged in August 2021 still rather undeveloped bottle age.

2008 PICHON LALANDE: 63CS 29M 3CF 5PV Youngest one bright fresh stylish showing mineral PL terroir.

1996 PICHON LALANDE: 75CS 15M 5CF 5PV More dark intensity and riper CS definition with somewhat atypical bigger PL focus with best future potential. More towards the current Nicholas styling.

1995 PICHON LALANDE: 45CS 40M 15CF Younger of a sensational pair (like 1983 & 1982) is smoother and more accessible with higher Merlot in a pure elegant M-EdL statement.

1990 PICHON LALANDE: Much less fruit as no press wine was added so is much lighter lacking depth but showing better with forward elegance than on previous tastings. Enjoy now.

1994 CHATEAU LAFITE ROTHSCHILD: Darkest young look of First Flight. Undeveloped with similar flavours but is more primary herbaceous fruit with harder tannins. Very high quality is recognized but some of us thought it was a less celebrated vintage. Hard one to guess served blind. A much better showing paired with the delicious duck-mushroom pasta course.

1989 PICHON LALANDE: Was not served this time but usually has wonderful aromatics on a beautiful plateau of alluring silky tannins. 1989 PL is always way more intense and complex than 1990.

1986 PICHON LALANDE: Very dark & deep. Pure Pauillac bouquet with powerful graphite tobacco cedar notes. Admire the structure with firm tannins just coming into their own perfect balance. Like the future here.

1985 PICHON LALANDE: Paler edge much lighter than 1986. Was on occasion a shade weedy after release but has improved as a complete wine gracefully with bottle aging. Can enjoy it now. Nice matching with the exquisite herbal leg of lamb.

1983 PICHON LALANDE: A special fav of your scribe – and M-EdL. IMHO the best of the northern Medocs (including First Growths) in 1983. Shows that clean pure classic breeding with graphite black fruits, truffles and balanced energy. No rush. Excellent now but may develop even further complexities.

1920 VIN DE PICHON LONGUEVILLE: Deep punted 100+ years old bottle. Sommeliers Calem & NIna did an outstanding job of extracting by Durand the crumbly cork intact. Very pale old wine looks but bright & clear. Enticing first perfumes of exotic roses but surprisingly fresh styling. Wonderful delicacy and length. Guessed blind as 37 Lafite.

A rare treat indeed!


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Ask Sid: What non-wine items impressed at 45th #VIWF?

March 6th, 2024 by Joseph Temple
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Question: What non-wine items made a good impression on you at the 45th Vancouver International Wine Festival?

Answer: So many well done experiences @VanWineFest. Here is a Top 5:

  1. VANCOUVER CONVENTION CENTRE Executive Chef Nandakishore Rangan and talented team shone at many events including Principals Welcome Lunch, 20th Annual Awards Buffet, and Saturday’s La Dolce Vita. Such a variety of quality dishes on the menu highlighted by Burrata bruschetta, heirloom tomato, basil; Mushroom and mascarpone ravioli, black truffle cream, & hand-carved roasted porchetta.
  2. GIARDINO Ciao Piemonte smartly organized alternative course choices for their excellent 5 course Vietti dinner with special kudos to proprietor Umberto for flying in his outstanding VILLA DELIA EVOO so fresh cold pressed in October 2023 and on the tables already. Amazing!
  3. The constant line-ups at Festival Tastings for the popular D’ORO GELATO with freshly made different ones every day. Wonderful tasty flavours from Pistachio, Mango Sorbetto, and theme country Limoncella.
  4. Educational RETHINKING FOOD & WINE PAIRING seminar-lunch by Master Sommelier EVAN GOLDSTEIN author of Perfect Pairings showing how you must understand the wine style but also the food (ingredients, cooking methods, sauces & sides) for best results.
  5. Outstanding food ingredients brought in and prepared for winemaker dinners at BOULEVARD – A NIGHT WITH ROBERT MONDAVI of delicious Five Spice Quail with entertaining comments by Principal Eugene Mlynczyk and Executive General Manager JT Potters; and at THE ROOF AT BLACK & BLUE – A TASTE OF RUFFINO DINNER OF rich Wagyu Japanese A5 striploin with Ambassador Beppe D’Andrea plus attentive knowledgeable input by Wine Director Global Restaurant Group Sarah McCauley.

The educational and enjoyable experiences available over and above the wine at #VIWF @VanWineFest make it a must-attend adventure. Be sure and mark down the dates of February 22-March 2, 2025 for the 46th annual featuring the USA.


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VERTICAL 2012-2019 SERGIO ZINGARELLI CHIANTI CLASSICO GRAN SELEZIONE DOCG

March 4th, 2024 by Joseph Temple

The 45th Vancouver International Wine Festival over 8 days has just concluded. Canada’s premier wine show was a great success with an amazing 147 wineries from 12 countries showing 1150 wines – showcasing the theme country of Italy with 71 wineries. So many educational highlights including a special 8 vintage (2012-2019) library vertical seminar from Rocca Delle Macie in Tuscany led by Italian wine expert Filippo Bartolotta and President Sergio Zingarelli showing his top Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG. This highest classification started in 2014 requiring the use of only estate grown grapes and bottling with at least 30 months aging. Interesting Rules on product characteristics at time of consumption for GS:

Colour: Lively ruby-red tending to garnet with aging Odour: Spicy and persistent
Flavour: Dry, persistent, balanced
Minimum abv: 13. – CC 12 & CCRiserva 12.5
Minimum total acidity: 4.5 g/l – CC & CCR the same
Minimum non-reducing extract: 26 g/l – CC 24 & CCR 25

Your scribe as been concerned with the differing quantities of GS by producers with some restricting it only to their best vineyards like SZ by RDM while others using almost all their grapes to trade off the GS hierarchy. This needs tweaking but thankfully all the grapes seem to be ripening better in CC as a result of global warming to the consumer’s advantage in the wines. A few brief notes on this exciting vertical served in 4 flights pairs:

2012 SERGIO ZINGARELLI CHIANTI CLASSICO GRAN SELEZIONE: Started in 2010-2013 using 90% Sangiovese with 10% Colorino (subsequently 100% Sangiovese). 2012 was a very HOT year showing rustic forest floor notes with porcini as Filippo describes the wine as “orange brick rim with black fruits ginger spicy Christmas pudding sweetness.”

2013 SERGIO ZINGARELLI CHIANTI CLASSICO GRAN SELEZIONE: Served blind last pair with the 2018. Another HOT year, dark opaque look and different higher extract & pH from the others. Filippo called it “blue flowers, blue bells”.

2014 SERGIO ZINGARELLI CHIANTI CLASSICO GRAN SELEZIONE: Served in opening pair with the 2012. First time 100% Sangiovese plus using larger size wood barrels and less barriques. Less pale orange at the edge and more floral from this COOL year. Filippo: “red fruits floral sage & violets.”

2015 SERGIO ZINGARELLI CHIANTI CLASSICO GRAN SELEZIONE
2016 SERGIO ZINGARELLI CHIANTI CLASSICO GRAN SELEZIONE:
Discussed 2015 & 2016 together both with better acidity and minerality than the 3 earlier years. Filippo:”2105 juicy dried violets and flowers” and “2016 celebrated year earthy tannic structure fininishes with more balanced layered textures”. Your scribe’s 2nd favourite!

2017 SERGIO ZINGARELLI CHIANTI CLASSICO GRAN SELEZIONE: Similar to 2012 as a very HOT year with sour cherries aromas and typical tobacco. Filippo: “Sweet but strongest tannins so far”

2018 SERGIO ZINGARELLI CHIANTI CLASSICO GRAN SELEZIONE: Served as blind last pairing with HOT 2013 representing again the COOL 2018 year style in comparison. Lighter look of less colour & palate with less body but still has characteristic cherries, floral and touch of tobacco seen in them all.

2019 SERGIO ZINGARELLI CHIANTI CLASSICO GRAN SELEZIONE: Their 10th harvest of GS and clearly the best! Wonderful wild strawberries with energy plus classy elegance. Filippo: “ripe rhubarb with juicy complexity which will last 30-40 years without a problem”.

Great learning experience on CC GS with smart comparison of the hotter and cooler vintages. Plan to visit the 46th #VIWF @VanWineFest from February 22 to March 2, 2025 featuring USA wines.


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