Archive for April, 2021

Recently enjoyed some delightful wine surprises by drinking up so-called inferior vintages supposedly already over-the-hill. It is most difficult to rely with full confidence on the overall general rating shown on a vintage chart or elsewhere about any specific property or wine. There will always be exceptions as we know. IMHO these are often more likely to occur from the best vineyards from conscientious producers. For example Bordeaux has a deserved
reputation for always aging longer than you might expect. However in off years some properties have excelled in terrific old treasures. Château Latour in Pauillac with a unique terroir always seems to have a wine of some power yet with elegance every year. Even in a large over-crop like 1950 the resulting wine is always a delight. Similarly
Château La MIssion Haut Brion in Pessac-Leognan often shows unexpected depth. Your scribe remembers well a real delightful eye opener even with a glorious 1958 from a bad year. Selection and know-how together with choice grapes from outstanding sites may overcome bad weather conditions. Today the concern is not so much cool weather with unripe grapes but rather excessive heat concerns. 2012 & 2013 may not be top vintage superstars but those current releases from Château Latour though forwardly elegant should still develop with some cellaring.
All this came vividly back to my memory bank last week with two Baroli from 2003. Not an acclaimed vintage in Piedmont but quite variable due to again that dry very hot record breaking Summer temperatures prevalent throughout many wine regions – especially in Europe. At least it was better than the very weak wipe out 2002s. The wines were both Nebbiolo made in different styles from outstanding vineyards by top producers but that made all the difference for these 2003s:

1. 2003 BAROLO SORI GINESTRA CONTERNO-FANTINO This Sori slope (south facing hill “where the snow melts first”) from the ideal great Ginestra vineyard in Monforte d’Alba is dark, deep, concentrated, rich and impressive at 14.5. Conterno-Fantino is a more “modern” producer with shorter fermentation-maceration methods using
   French oak in smaller barriques. The overall balance is helped by the higher natural acidity levels of Nebbiolo. A much bigger and riper wine than their Vigna del Gris. Sori Ginestra is also smooth, approachable and so delicious when paired with a dinner main course of pasta, porcini mushroom sauce and Parmigiano Reggiano. Underrated.

2. 2003 BAROLO MONPRIVATO GIUSEPPE e FIGLIO MASCARELLO This prestigious Monprivato southwest facing vineyard of Giuseppe e Figlio Mascarello in Catiglione Falletto is one of the very best of all the Barolo sites. The amazing depth of fruit balance with complex fragrances that can be achieved from this site is enviable. Situated
at about 240-320 metres elevation the soils there retain moisture which helped in 2003 plus the green harvesting did as well. A more “classic” producer that was most successful in this difficult year. Brown tinged lighter colour than usual but pure delight of perfumed bouquet & balanced flavours. Surprising structure. A superb dish of
Tajarin pasta with fresh shaved black truffle (instead of preferred white) with new EVOO Argiano Biologico Italiano IGT worked like a charm in showing this underrated beauty to the best advantage!

Question: What is the hot wine trend so far in 2021?

Answer: Your scribe is not a big follower of wine trends. They may be interesting but too often are just PR marketing moves to try and sell more commercial wine. Still there seems to be a growing interest this year by consumers from a big fruit driven beverage to a drier, less sweet, fresh, lower alcohol style of wines with a better acidity balance. I think this is a good thing or an encouraging trend. Yesterday VinePair featured: “Pucker Up: With Sour Flavors Trending in Beer and Cocktails, What’s Next For Wine?“. They suggested wines with higher acidity like Albarino & Chablis plus lower dosage bubbles and even mead will be the ticket. Also something that is a bit “funky” stands out as well. Perhaps this is a trend to watch out for!

As we all know one of the few good things to develop out of this continuing pandemic are webinars. What a plethora of information now is out there for everyone on wines from around the world. For the blossoming Canadian wine industry this is good news. They reached a much wider audience on March 23 @HarpersWine in the UK with an interesting overview on Canadian wine that can be seen above.

The panel included Janet Dorozynski @WineTrackMind & Dr. Jamie Goode @jamiegoode plus other wine trade from the UK of Andrew Catchpole Harper’s editor, Sarah Knowles MW The Wine Society, David Gleave MW
Liberty Wines, Nik Darlington Grat Wine Co, and Ben Franks Novel Wines. They tasted a variety of Canadian wines listed there from Niagara and the Okanagan. The historical start was Icewine but the current focus was riesling but mainly chardonnay, pinot noir and increasingly popular #GoGamayGo. There was general agreement that “Brand Canada” has goodwill in the UK with a “trust currency” and “emotional attachment” for their overall high quality standards of “remarkable wine” for taking that leap of faith. Lots of admiration for the “clean purity of fruit”, “brightness” with “good acidity” and “freshness”. However the main question seemed to be can they sell?
Certainly are doing well in the domestic market of BC & Ontario. However, presently with so many good wines from around the world competing for space on international wine lists it has become a most difficult export wine market. Many great wines are universal at 50+ pounds a bottle but must find customers at around 19.99. At that level
there are strong rivals for Canadian chardonnay with French Chablis and Kumeu River from New Zealand. They like the excellent Le Grand Clos Chardonnay 2017 from Le Clos Jordanne but 38 (2016 Checkmate Queen Taken 75) while classy 2018 Charles Baker Riesling PIcone Vineyards retails at a better 22 (2018 Henry of Pelham Reserve
competitive 15.95). Similarly for the Canadian reds competing against Chianti Classico and Oregon among others for Pinot Noirs like MIssion Hill Reserve 25-28 pounds. Support for Le Vieux Pin Syrah but 35+ yet
Haywire Gamay Noir draws interest. Still early days but most encouraging to see the reputation for Canadian wines continuing to grow with “UK impressed” and “Canada moving in the right direction”. Obviously it takes time to establish an export wine market for Canadian wines but it is at least starting. Well done. Good luck!