Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande is a Second Growth Pauillac Grand Cru Classé in the 1855 Classification. Since 1978 (plus some vintages before) this property has been a deserving Super Second with an amazing record of consistently fine wines first under the indomitable spirit of May-Elaine de Lencquesaing and more recently the conscientious musical direction of Nicolas Glumineau. Lots of memorable experiences with M-EdL & PL many recorded on this Blog linked here from June 18, 2013, June 15, 2020, and February 14, 2022. May’s elegant wines were often balanced with more Merlot & Petit Verdot that have stood well the taste of time. Over the last ten years NG has planted more Cabernet Sauvignon, reducing the Merlot component and adding more Cabernet Franc & less Petit Verdot in the blend. Riper fruit but expecting them to also age. Appreciate his recent reply to my question on vintage styles as follows:

2023: Combines the “mineral depth of 2020, sharp powdery tannic structure of 2019, and the vibrant energy of 2010 & 2005”.

2022: NG says it is “between 2020 & 2015” plus growing some white grapes making 150 liters of 2022 Chardonnay & Savagnin (he likes the Jura) after thinking about trying Chenin Blanc but deciding no chalky soil for elegance. Another plot has Chardonnay, Semillon, and Gros Manseng.

May built and cherished a wonderful Museum of Glass. NIcolas recommends discovering PL vintages accompanied by music: a new interpretation of the PL tannins of 2016 with Radiohead & 2014 Kate Bush. Your scribe likes his suggestion of listening to No Quarter by Led Zeppelin while enjoying the 2010. He prefers his PL 2020 to 2019. Ask Sid Wine Wednesday awarded @PichonComtesse the best social media coverage of the 2023 harvest on October 11, 2023 here.

May has authored a fantastic new book in French (being translated into English) by Tallandier called “Les vendanges d’un destin – De Bordeaux à l’Afrique du Sud”. She kindly included at the back twelve pages under “Souvenirs et Moments Partages” reminiscences requested from your scribe submitted in English but presently translated into French.

On February 13, 2024 Event #119 of the Vancouver Group of 8 at Blue Water Cafe celebrated a PL Vertical update. A few brief comments:

With a superb Dungeness Crab Salad we had the fresh vibrant in a softer style of 2014 (not 2005 as shown on the menu) of 61PN/39C with 8g/l dosage, disgorged in August 2021 still rather undeveloped bottle age.

2008 PICHON LALANDE: 63CS 29M 3CF 5PV Youngest one bright fresh stylish showing mineral PL terroir.

1996 PICHON LALANDE: 75CS 15M 5CF 5PV More dark intensity and riper CS definition with somewhat atypical bigger PL focus with best future potential. More towards the current Nicholas styling.

1995 PICHON LALANDE: 45CS 40M 15CF Younger of a sensational pair (like 1983 & 1982) is smoother and more accessible with higher Merlot in a pure elegant M-EdL statement.

1990 PICHON LALANDE: Much less fruit as no press wine was added so is much lighter lacking depth but showing better with forward elegance than on previous tastings. Enjoy now.

1994 CHATEAU LAFITE ROTHSCHILD: Darkest young look of First Flight. Undeveloped with similar flavours but is more primary herbaceous fruit with harder tannins. Very high quality is recognized but some of us thought it was a less celebrated vintage. Hard one to guess served blind. A much better showing paired with the delicious duck-mushroom pasta course.

1989 PICHON LALANDE: Wsa not served this time but usually has wonderful aromatics on a beautiful plateau of alluring silky tannins. 1989 PL is always way more intense and complex than 1990.

1986 PICHON LALANDE: Very dark & deep. Pure Pauillac bouquet with powerful graphite tobacco cedar notes. Admire the structure with firm tannins just coming into their own perfect balance. Like the future here.

1985 PICHON LALANDE: Paler edge much lighter than 1986. Was on occasion a shade weedy after release but has improved as a complete wine gracefully with bottle aging. Can enjoy it now. Nice matching with the exquisite herbal leg of lamb.

1983 PICHON LALANDE: A special fav of your scribe – and M-EdL. IMHO the best of the northern Medocs (including First Growths) in 1983. Shows that clean pure classic breeding with graphite black fruits, truffles and balanced energy. No rush. Excellent now but may develop even further complexities.

1920 VIN DE PICHON LONGUEVILLE: Deep punted 100+ years old bottle. Sommeliers Calem & NIna did an outstanding job of extracting by Durand the crumbly cork intact. Very pale old wine looks but bright & clear. Enticing first perfumes of exotic roses but surprisingly fresh styling. Wonderful delicacy and length. Guessed blind as 37 Lafite.

A rare treat indeed!

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Question: What non-wine items made a good impression on you at the 45th Vancouver International Wine Festival?

Answer: So many well done experiences @VanWineFest. Here is a Top 5:

1. VANCOUVER CONVENTION CENTRE Executive Chef Nandakishore Rangan and talented team shone at many events including Principals Welcome Lunch, 20th Annual Awards Buffet, and Saturday’s La Dolce Vita. Such a variety of quality dishes on the menu highlighted by Burrata bruschetta, heirloom tomato, basil; Mushroom and mascarpone ravioli, black truffle cream, & hand-carved roasted porchetta.
   
2. GIARDINO Ciao Piemonte smartly organized alternative course choices for their excellent 5 course Vietti dinner with special kudos to proprietor Umberto for flying in his outstanding VILLA DELIA EVOO so fresh cold pressed in October 2023 and on the tables already. Amazing!
   
3. The constant line-ups at Festival Tastings for the popular D’ORO GELATO with freshly made different ones every day. Wonderful tasty flavours from Pistachio, Mango Sorbetto, and theme country Limoncella.
   
4. Educational RETHINKING FOOD & WINE PAIRING seminar-lunch by Master Sommelier EVAN GOLDSTEIN author of Perfect Pairings showing how you must understand the wine style but also the food (ingredients, cooking methods, sauces & sides) for best results.
   
5. Outstanding food ingredients brought in and prepared for winemaker dinners at BOULEVARD – A NIGHT WITH ROBERT MONDAVI of delicious Five Spice Quail with entertaining comments by Principal Eugene Mlynczyk and Executive General Manager JT Potters; and at THE ROOF AT BLACK & BLUE – A TASTE OF RUFFINO DINNER OF rich Wagyu Japanese A5 striploin with Ambassador Beppe D’Andrea plus attentive knowledgeable input by Wine Director Global Restaurant Group Sarah McCauley.

The educational and enjoyable experiences available over and above the wine at #VIWF @VanWineFest make it a must-attend adventure. Be sure and mark down the dates of February 22-March 2, 2025 for the 46th annual featuring the USA.

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The 45th Vancouver International Wine Festival over 8 days has just concluded. Canada’s premier wine show was a great success with an amazing 147 wineries from 12 countries showing 1150 wines – showcasing the theme country of Italy with 71 wineries. So many educational highlights including a special 8 vintage (2012-2019) library vertical seminar from Rocca Delle Macie in Tuscany led by Italian wine expert Filippo Bartolotta and President Sergio Zingarelli showing his top Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG. This highest classification started in 2014 requiring the use of only estate grown grapes and bottling with at least 30 months aging. Interesting Rules on product characteristics at time of consumption for GS:

Colour: Lively ruby-red tending to garnet with aging Odour: Spicy and persistent
Flavour: Dry, persistent, balanced
Minimum abv: 13. – CC 12 & CCRiserva 12.5
Minimum total acidity: 4.5 g/l – CC & CCR the same
Minimum non-reducing extract: 26 g/l – CC 24 & CCR 25

Your scribe as been concerned with the differing quantities of GS by producers with some restricting it only to their best vineyards like SZ by RDM while others using almost all their grapes to trade off the GS hierarchy. This needs tweaking but thankfully all the grapes seem to be ripening better in CC as a result of global warming to the consumer’s advantage in the wines. A few brief notes on this exciting vertical served in 4 flights pairs:

2012 SERGIO ZINGARELLI CHIANTI CLASSICO GRAN SELEZIONE: Started in 2010-2013 using 90% Sangiovese with 10% Colorino (subsequently 100% Sangiovese). 2012 was a very HOT year showing rustic forest floor notes with porcini as Filippo describes the wine as “orange brick rim with black fruits ginger spicy Christmas pudding sweetness.”

2013 SERGIO ZINGARELLI CHIANTI CLASSICO GRAN SELEZIONE: Served blind last pair with the 2018. Another HOT year, dark opaque look and different higher extract & pH from the others. Filippo called it “blue flowers, blue bells”.

2014 SERGIO ZINGARELLI CHIANTI CLASSICO GRAN SELEZIONE: Served in opening pair with the 2012. First time 100% Sangiovese plus using larger size wood barrels and less barriques. Less pale orange at the edge and more floral from this COOL year. Filippo: “red fruits floral sage & violets.”

2015 SERGIO ZINGARELLI CHIANTI CLASSICO GRAN SELEZIONE
2016 SERGIO ZINGARELLI CHIANTI CLASSICO GRAN SELEZIONE: Discussed 2015 & 2016 together both with better acidity and minerality than the 3 earlier years. Filippo:”2105 juicy dried violets and flowers” and “2016 celebrated year earthy tannic structure fininishes with more balanced layered textures”. Your scribe’s 2nd favourite!

2017 SERGIO ZINGARELLI CHIANTI CLASSICO GRAN SELEZIONE: Similar to 2012 as a very HOT year with sour cherries aromas and typical tobacco. Filippo: “Sweet but strongest tannins so far”

2018 SERGIO ZINGARELLI CHIANTI CLASSICO GRAN SELEZIONE: Served as blind last pairing with HOT 2013 representing again the COOL 2018 year style in comparison. Lighter look of less colour & palate with less body but still has characteristic cherries, floral and touch of tobacco seen in them all.

2019 SERGIO ZINGARELLI CHIANTI CLASSICO GRAN SELEZIONE: Their 10th harvest of GS and clearly the best! Wonderful wild strawberries with energy plus classy elegance. Filippo: “ripe rhubarb with juicy complexity which will last 30-40 years without a problem”.

Great learning experience on CC GS with smart comparison of the hotter and cooler vintages. Plan to visit the 46th #VIWF @VanWineFest from February 22 to March 2, 2025 featuring USA wines.

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Question: Attending the 45th Vancouver International Wine Festival on Friday, March 1st and would like to know a couple of Italian wines you would recommend I must try?

Answer: Great opportunity this year to learn more about the many wine regions of Italy from 71 producers. Also some excellent British Columbia wines. Here are 5 great Italian ones to taste:

–TIMORASSO 2021 from Piedmont CANTINE VOLPI – revived white grape variety producing fantastic aromatic wines becoming a cult gem.
–BAROLO SERRALUNGA D’ALBA 2019 from FONTANAFREDDA – Value Classic Nebbiolo
–CHIANTI CLASSICO GRAN SELEZIONE Compare the two top Tuscany selections one from ROCCA DELLE MACIE with another CASTELLO DI BROLIOby RICASOLI. Fun & educational.
–BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2018 from ALTESINO – Sangiovese Grosso lush beauty!
–REDIGAFFI 2021 from TUA RITA – Classy expensive Tuscan IGT treat with smooth complex Merlot.
Enjoy!

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Always fascinated by the subtle differences shown by Burgundy wines. So many unique terroir smaller vineyards all close together that are impacted by the weather variations each vintage resulting in wines that once bottled are continuing to change. Rather complicated. This impression is often markedly noted at events featuring several wines from similar regions but in comparative vintages. Such was the case again on February 20, 2024 at a wine tasting dinner at Forage in Vancouver held by the Confrerie des Chevaliers du Tastevin. After an aperitif of ripe 2015 Gobillard Cuvee Prestige Champagne from Hautvilliers of 60% Chardonnay & 40% Pinot Noir we moved into the First course comparing the same vintage 2015 of Louis Michel two top 1er Cru Chablis:

2015 CHABLIS 1ER CRU MONTEE DE TONNERRE LOUIS MICHEL
2015 CHABLIS 1ER CRU VAULORENT LOUIS MICHEL

This is a respected producer dating back to 1850 and since 2007 managed by Guilliaume Michel. Your scribe last visited with Guillaume in Chablis on October 5, 2023 and tasted their excellent pure old style no wood used with usual lower alcohol Chablis from mainly 2021 & 2020 vintages. Impressed served blind the 2009 Les Clos with more spice and exotica but softer rounder and smooth textures. Guessed 2015 Les Clos (not the structure of 2014) but surprised on revealing that it was that old from another ripe year of 2009. Developing slowly. Classic with a wonderful future.

Tonight arguably the very best 1er crus from the Right Bank adjoining the Grand Crus but at opposite ends. This MdT adjoins Les Blanchots as a special one parcel of 4.5 hectares all on the main plateau in Chapelot. 2015 picked quickly and earlier in September because of the hailstorms. The terroir is usually naturally more opulent with smoky complexity. Here it shows minerals with lemon & spicy white flowers but is leaner and fresher than expected. The often steely Vaulorent (carved out as a special part of Fourchaume) on the other side adjoining Les Preuses is here atypically a richer rounder wine already at maturity. C’est la vie.

Next, an educational study of the best vineyard of Meursault in Perrieres. Two vintages from Albert Grivault of their Monopole Clos des Perrieres being .95ha of more clay topsoil over white marl than the rest of their Perrieres holdings of 1.55 ha (totalling largest of 2.5ha of total AC plantings of 13.72 followed by Bouchard Pere at 1.2ha). The 2015 at 14 abv as expected was powerful combining the minerals of Genevrieres plus the roundness of Charmes in an excellent ripe orange & hazelnut complexity asking for more bottle age. The 2011 at 13 abv was a lighter, most elegant, yet very stylish vintage. However, your scribe discovered that 4 bottles of 2015 were served but 2 were not the Clos but the Grivault regular Perrieres but our servers didn’t tell us which one we each received. Unfortunately a lost opportunity for an insightful comparison between the Clos & the regular Meursault Perrieres 2015 by Grivault.

Third course was a delicious lamb shoulder that improved the following two red Burgundies:

2012 CHAMBOLLE MUSIGNY VILLAGE GHISLAINE BARTHOD
2013 CHAMBOLLE MUSIGNY VILLAGE GHISLAINE BARTHOD

This domaine evolved from a fusion in the late twenties of the Marcel Noellat & Barthod families. Ghislaine started in the 1980s as an apprentice for her father and built a respected house which originally only labelled Les Charmes but now have 11 small top parcels on limestone gravel soils resulting in wines of finesse & delicacy. Since 2019 her son Clement is helping manage plus also with his father Louis Boillot but they keep the two domains separate. 2012 is generally a riper thicker skin tannic year compared to 2013 a cooler late harvest less ripe one. However, a big surprise here is that 2012 is much lighter and drier with less ripe fruit than 2013 as the later harvest delivered lovely raspberry sour cherry fruit. Both still in a primary stage with the sensual fruit waiting to come together but the village level is not as adorably balanced with charm as are Premier & Grand Crus of this wonderful AC.

The final educational lesson was shown by 2 magnums each of these Grand Crus:

2007 ECHEZEAUX DOMAINE GROS FRERE ET SOEUR
2006 GRANDS ECHEZEAUX DOMAINE GROS FRERE ET SOEUR

A wine with the Gros name is admired and now widely spread by many producers. In 1963 the Vosne Romanee estate for 160 years was divided into 4 parts with 2 combined into GF&S run by Bernard Gros. Significant replanting was done from the mid-eighties. As with the last flight 2 adjoining vintages to compare but again not years of the highest consistent quality. 2007 had bad summer weather resulting in variable wines with higher acidity while 2006 was ripe but with rot issues requiring crucial sorting of the fruit and so also is variable. Echezeaux is a large 37+ ha on a higher slope above smaller 9+ ha Grands Echezeaux ( adjoining Clos Vougeot) gentle slope with thicker clay. The name Grands is an unfortunate choice because it gives the indication that it is always better but is not necessarily so though often shows a fuller texture. Here the 2007 is way lighter in colour though has the most exquisite pure nose with palate acidity to age well. This 2006 has a darker look and riper more concentrated as expected but less clean not as pure aromas – more rustic. Backward Grand Crus – especially in magnum format. Some members actually preferred the two younger Village Chambolle Musigny over these higher classified older backward ones. Wonder how this report will change with 5 years more time for these wines to age in the bottle?

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