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La Commanderie de Bordeaux in Vancouver, under the excellent leadership of Le Maitre Fred Withers, Cellarmaster Alvin Nirenberg, and their dedicated team, offers wonderful educational insights into the diversity of Bordeaux wines. Another example was shown on May 25, 2026 at Boulevard Restaurant featuring four older vintages (both ending with their celebrated 1982) from two different lesser-known, now good-value properties: Chateau La Lagune in Ludon at the start of the southern Médoc, & Chateau La Dominique in St. Emilion (adjacent to Pomerol). It was interesting to compare these properties with their quite different stylings. La Lagune has long been a favourite of your scribe and has been featured several times on this Blog including linked here on July 3, 2018 providing more details. Generally it tends towards a Margaux/Graves terroir combination, offering a lighter, elegant, charming, and well-balanced red Bordeaux style. La Dominique, on the other hand, is primarily Merlot (with increasing Cabernet Franc) grown on clay soils, resulting in a fuller bodied statement with ever-improving modernization and much better results since 2011. During my frequent Bordeaux visits in the seventies and eighties I often stayed at nearby Chateau Montlabert (next to Chateau Figeac) and toured La Dominique—which then was simpler, more rustic, and relatively unknown with new owners. The de Bailliencourt family (also long time and current owners of Chateau Gazin in Pomerol) owned it since 1933, and they sold it to the Fayat family in 1969. Both properties are presently on an encouraging upswing.

We started this evening with 2010 PLOYEZ-JACQUEMART BLANC DE BLANCS EXTRA BRUT from this family house, established in 1930 and now in its third generation. It’s quite a popular brand presently in Western Canada with two good value NV Extra Quality Brut offerings both disgorged last year in 2025: one from 2018 62C/14PN/24PM at 5.5 & the other from 2019 of 50C/36PN/14PM at 4.5. Both are worth checking out. This 2010 is 100% Chardonnay disgorged after 12 years *sur lattes* with a 5 g/l dosage, offering an open, full, generous, tropical, brioche, toasty aperitif. We finished with a special 50th Anniversary bottle of 1976 CHATEAU DE FARGUES SAUTERNES. At that time, both this property and d’Yquem were managed by Lur Saluces using a similar formula of 80% Semillon & 20% Sauvignon Blanc – plus even the older d’Yquem oak casks. Forwardly mature drier full creme brûlée paired well with the cheese course.

2021 CHATEAU LATOUR-MARTILLAC BLANC: Blend of 57% Sauvignon Blanc & 43% Sémillon, harvested September 9-21 at 13% ABV shows juicy, floral, zesty, fresh green apple notes from the still-dominant SB.

2021 CHATEAU DE FIEUZAL BLANC: Similar blend from the Quinn family (65% SB/35% Sémillon) harvested earlier September 1-13 at 12.5% ABV shows fennel with fresh lemon-lime zest but is again quite young before the Sémillon has time to develop a richer dominance. Both whites paired well with the Crudo Hamachi with Meyer lemon puree.

2008 CHATEAU LA LAGUNE: Blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, and 10% Petit Verdot shows quite dark intensity. Open aromas and supple, softening, drier-than-expected flavours finishing with a touch of acidity. It was acceptable for earlier consumption, but I expected more fruit though it showed better with the innovative Pasta course.

2005 CHATEAU LA LAGUNE: Dark similar blend offers better fruit sweetness and a more balanced structure. Solid engaging style preferred over the 2008, but now more accessible than expected for this super-star vintage. Enjoy currently

1986 CHATEAU LA LAGUNE: It showed some youthful notes initially, with firm tannins rounding out, but it was a bit austere overall. It was drying and not the best bottle at only 12.5% ABV. However, it lacked the impressive depth of the 1986 Chateau Meyney St. Estèphe tasted this week.

1982 CHATEAU LA LAGUNE: It had big expectations but not as brilliant as the Margaux-like beauty from the 2018 Blog tasting. It was an easy group favorite here, but this time it was earthier, drying out and lacked vibrancy, though it showed much better quality than the earlier three vintages. Bottle variation from storage and ullage at 40+ years is expected. Current vintages of ’22, ’19, ’16, ’15, and older ’09 & ’85 have lovely charming pure terroir that is more reliable these days.

2014 CHATEAU LA DOMINIQUE: Blend of 85% Merlot (harvested September 26 to October 5) & 15% Cabernet Franc (October 7-14), aged for 14 months in oak (60% new) at 14% ABV. Full, spicy, rich, modern styling from Jean-Luc Thunevin, who has consulted since 2007. Young, no rush. It shows versatile depth with the duck breast and morel mushroom cream.

2012 CHATEAU LA DOMINIQUE: More Merlot (harvested earlier at September 8-13) at 95% & less Cab Franc (later October 15) at 5% but both vintages yielded only 36 hl/ha at 14% ABV. Bigger richer blueberry & cherry Merlot fruit statement. This vintage clearly shows the Merlot variety to advantage.

1998 CHATEAU LA DOMINIQUE: Served from Magnums from a respected Right Bank year. It was surprising that it had less density than expected. Fresh, clean, balanced, lightweight, very St. Emilion styled. Current enjoyment.

1982 CHATEAU LA DOMINIQUE: First bottle very musty bad TCA issue. Another bottle had mushroomy, roasted notes not a typical 1982 signature. It showed the big more rustic old style of this property 40 years ago. Spicy and different but variable and lacks elegance.

I recommend the more elegant mocha plummy quality fruit of their current vintages more highly – especially 2022 and 2020.

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Question: I hear there is a brand new law passed in British Columbia allowing restaurants to order directly from private wine stores. Please provide more details for me on this change. Thanks Sid.

Answer: Yes this is really exciting news. As BC prepares to host some soccer games for the FIFA World Cup 2026 the Provincial government has relaxed the strict ordering rules that previously required ordering only from the BCLDB. There is now a 3 year trial period, lasting until June 1, 2029 allowing restaurants, bars and pubs flexibility to buy alcohol directly from private retail stores. This new policy allows for a wider selection of liquor products and in these tougher economic times even a single bottle of more expensive wine rather than the previously required case lots. It’s not enough change, but it’s a good start and most encouraging. Stay tuned. More details on this liquor policy change are available in Bulletin 26-03: Licensee-to-licensee sales between licence classes at www2.gov.bc.ca

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The Vancouver Group of Eight under the amazing leadership of Ian Mottershead continues its remarkable journey with memorable insightful tastings of top quality wines cleverly matched with food. Usually we focus on a vertical of nine wines to assess a property’s consistency and the ageability of its wines. This time for a change of pace, we spotlighted ten wines from Bouchard Pere et Fils (with roots dating back to 1731) on May 19, 2026, for #142 at Tutto Restaurant. For full disclosure your scribe has followed Bouchard Pere wines closely since the seventies—for over 50 years—including many visits to Beaune and educational seminars conducted in Vancouver with Luc Bouchard (eg. Blog linked here March 24, 2014). My respect and dedication grew following an early Heublein pre-auction tasting in San Francisco on May 27, 1980 where all their wines (directly from their Beaune cellars) shone brightly: maturing whites of balanced 1974 Corton-Charlemagne, young 1973 Chevalier-Montrachet, and super intense 1972 Montrachet. However, their long-aged reds were a true revelation: a spicy 1948 Clos de Vougeot, 1887 & 1875 Chambertins drying but lovely with complex fading flowers, and a youthful historic hot vintage of native ungrafted Pinot Noir 1865 Beaune Premier Cru (named Cuvee Grizot). Lots of postings here include insights from winemaker Philippe Prost followed by Frederic Weber (Link: April 26, 2015), the new owners since 2022 Groupe Artemis Domaines (Francois Pinault Family), following an earlier acquisition by Joseph Henriot in 1995 (Link: October 21, 2024), and a Meursault Perrieres vertical (Link: July 28, 2025).

BOUCHARD PERE owns 130 hectares of Burgundy vineyards, including 12 of Grand Cru & 74 of Premier Cru. Remember in Burgundy that the 33 Grand Cru only represent 2%, 570 Premier Cru 15%, 44 Village AC 30%, and the majority are 23 Regional at 53%. Artemis is clearly focusing on using only grapes from their best Domaine vineyards. The future is bright indeed. The whites have been outstanding for quite a while. Again, the two young white wine examples here are really stellar:

2022 MEURSAULT GENEVRIERES PREMIER CRU DOMAINE: Bouchard has the largest holding of 2.65 hectares followed by Latour-Giraud with 2.46 (total 16.48—compare the smaller, minerally Perrieres at 13.72 & the much larger creamy Charmes at 31.12) facing E/SE and often yields the first grapes harvested. This Genevrières style shows the typical terroir of full yet refined liveliness with less weight but a subtle elegant laciness. Just starting its development but already exciting and complex at 13.5% ABV. Impressive.

2015 CHEVALIER-MONTRACHET GRAND CRU DOMAINE: Bouchard is the largest holder at 2.24 hectares, followed by Leflaive at 1.72 and Les Demoiselles (in Le Cailleret), which is split with half a hectare each for Louis Jadot & Louis Latour (totaling 7+ hectares). This vineyard is higher up the slope from Montrachet on shallower stonier soils. A hot vintage but a cool wine at 13.5% ABV, showing fresh, refined, harmonious citrus plus a hint of brioche. Admire the balance, almost Corton-Charlemagne-like acidity. Perhaps their Chevalier-Montrachet La Cabotte (small stone building with a walled vineyard – really Montrachet) has more body with elegant sweet spices but I am satisfied with this one. Just starting on an exquisite, long, enjoyable drinking plateau. Outstanding!

The eight reds in two flights were interesting:

2018 BEAUNE DU CHATEAU PREMIER CRU: Antonin & Joseph Bouchard started this cuvée in 1907; it uses 17 vineyards (the white uses 5), which are vinified separately. This hot vintage typically shows the easy, riper, softer fruit characteristic of this blend’s style. It drinks fresh and true already. Lovely perfumed aromas.

2015 BEAUNE DU CHATEAU PREMIER CRU: Another hot year also deeply coloured but with a paler edge. It seems more intense due to lower yields and the creamy, concentrated, typical Beaune fruit is admirable. Good texture with some depth, showing more tertiary development for a wine over 10 years old. Enjoy.

2009 VOLNAY CAILLERETS ANCIENNE CUVEE CARNOT DOMAINE: 3.76 hectares behind Pousse D’Or with 4.63 (totalling 14.36) on a moderate SE facing slope on rocky clay soil. Bouchard bought this old plot from the owner Carnot as their first vineyard in 1775. Grapes are harvested in smaller 13kg containers for a gentle press followed by 12-14 months in French oak (30-40 % new) at 13.5% ABV. I always admire how this rather spicy elegant wine is structured, developing into an exquisite, richer, complex, elegant, mature beauty with longer aging. From the voluptuous 2009 vintage, now at 17 years it is still very dark young looking but starting to show its class. Best of flight and vying for best of tasting.

1996 GRAND VIN DE BEAUNE GREVES VIGNE DE L’ENFANT JESUS DOMAINE: Special cherished E/SE facing vineyard in the middle of Beaune Greves, situated on a steep slope of red soils with lots of iron oxide. There are no Grand Cru vineyards in Beaune, but there are 42 Premier Cru climats. IMHO, this is the richest most structured and longest-lived one. Full intensity with charm and some velvet texture is now appearing at 30 years old as it develops. Lovely fruit but a harder finish with higher acidity, typical of the 1996 vintage. No rush. Doug Loughran declared this “outstanding”. Even more delicious matched with the special truffled pasta course orchestrated by new Italian-focused Executive Chef Vahid Jafari and talented Wine Director/GM Leagh Barkley.

2019 LE CORTON GRAND CRU DOMAINE: This ancient property dates back to the 2nd century BC and was a favourite of Charlemagne. It is the only Grand Cru red in the Cotes de Beaune and is gaining more recent respect for long aging. The general Corton AC is 160 hectares of which 88.86 hectares were declared in 2018 as Corton Rouge Grand Cru (10% less than formerly due to replanting as Corton-Charlemagne). Bouchard’s holding in Le Corton is 3.55 hectares (out of a total of 11.67) at the top of the hill’s E/SE flank just below the woods on white marly thin soil (usually better for whites but Bouchard makes both). This is very young, pure, structured, concentrated spicy fruit admired by Nick Wright for its “modern approach”. It is still tight and tannic, with a bit of earthy acidity. It shows promising perfumes, and patience is required for it to come together.

2003 LE CORTON GRAND CRU DOMAINE: Lots of dark, intense, young fruit is impressive. It has the rich extract of the hot year’s ripeness but is creamy and coming together at 20+ years. Nice balance and showing very well indeed. Favourite of the flight. It sang brilliantly paired with Wagyu beef and Portobello mushrooms.

2015 CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE GRAND CRU: Clos de Beze is 15.40 hectares (Chambertin 12.90) and often more delicate than its powerful sister, Chambertin. Bouchard accesses non-Domaine vines from less than a hectare just below the forest close to a house with a sign named “Clos de Beze”. Hot year was often helped by the Summer rains in Gevrey. However, the purchased grapes were picked late, which was not ideal. Last one for Bouchard was 2022; Côte de Nuits wines are now with Domaine d’Eugénie. It was quite robust but lacked the delicacy and complexity of, say, an outstanding Rousseau.

2007 CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE GRAND CRU: Not the best vintage; it started hot but went through a dismal Summer that also ended cool. Some developed maturity nearing 20 but the raw material wasn’t as choice as for Corton. It has power and coarse density but lacks ethereal depth. Better with food.

ROSEWOOD VINEYARDS OLD LIQUEUR TOKAY PRODUCED BY W.H.CHAMBERS & SONS RUTHERGLEN VICTORIA AUSTRALIA A word on our outstanding dessert wine acquired from a private collection by Acker Merrall & Confit. This fortified treasure at 18% ABV has vines first planted in the Rutherglen region in 1851. Remember that even in the nineteen fifties, fortified wines accounted for 86% of total wine production in Australia. Tokay name was confusing with Hungary but it was discovered in 1976 to be Muscadelle – so now it is often called Topaque. Chambers was established in 1858 and is now sixth-generation with Stephen Chambers. After Parker’s near perfect scores these old solera Tokay and Muscat world-class wines from Rutherglen are expensive and in high demand. What a glorious treat: this very dark, multi-dimensional wine concentrated notes of chocolate, espresso coffee beans, prunes, figs, nuts, toffee, and other delights. What acidity freshness to hold a long, complex finish. Ideal match to the coffee creme brulee. WOW.

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Question: I am a long time collector of the Nota Bene red wine from Black Hills in the South Okanagan, British Columbia. What are your thoughts on the 2024 vintage that is about to be released? Answer: A most topical question. Yes quite a social media buzz is developing regarding the Black Hills Estate Winery’s flagship Nota Bene 2024 vintage release to Wine Club members next month. It usually comes from choice grapes from the Black Sage Bench of the southern Okanagan. Like many Okanagan wineries the devastating freeze between January 11 and 15 wiped out the 2024 vintage for many locally grown grapes. Imported replacements have been common. For this one-off named Hiatus Collection, Black Hills used grapes from the Walla Walla Valley, located on the border of Washington and Oregon. A well written explanation by the winemaker Ryan McKibbon is attached for this unique blend of 43/34/23 Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc at 14% ABV. Your scribe has tasted the 2024 and it remarkably follows the style of previous Nota Bene vintages that usually featured attractive, juicy yet structured balanced blackberry fruit with desert sage notes. However the 2024 seems riper, sturdy, and concentrated, yet softer approachable tannins with spicy plum, cassis, and black tea. Interesting comparison indeed. Well done. The 2024 Nota Bene reminds me somewhat of the quality L’Ecole 41 red blends and some outstanding early Leonetti Cellars from there – but of course with more Cab Sauv in the blend. It’s worth checking out — and adding to your collection.

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It has been a wonderful week of worldwide celebrations, coordinated by The International Wine & Food Society, recognizing the historic Steven Spurrier event held fifty years ago on May 24, 1976. Lots of current wine tasting results named “A Retrial of a Verdict that Changed History” are being posted on WWW.IWFSEA.ORG/JOP50. Check them out. Also consider your scribe’s thoughts on this historic tasting posted in the Wednesday Ask Sid feature on April 1, 2026 linked here. Our Vancouver Branch of IWFS held a commemorative wine tasting on May 20, 2026, featuring two single-blind flights—six whites and six reds—scored by eleven keen wine aficionados: James Robertson (and wife Milena, who was busy cooking a fantastic lamb shank and thus did not score the wines), Alvin Nirenberg, Kim Mead, Van Doren Chan, Leagh Barkley, Nellie & Vincent Tan, Dr. Bob Rothwell, Bob Vukovich, Joan Cross, & Sid Cross. The wine selections were brilliant and included some of the exact wines from the original 1976 event. It was a most interesting experience and the best wines rose to the top with a surprising consensus. However especially with the reds which were all over 50 years of age there was bottle variation—particularly for the 1970 Chateau Latour & 1970 Château Palmer, which were not in my opinion the very best bottles. The wines are listed below in the order they were served single-blind, along with a few of my comments:

2020 MEURSAULT-GOUTTE D’OR PREMIER CRU DOMAINE DES COMTES LAFON FRANCE: Light green look. All the whites looked quite similar. This had the most reductive (“struck match”) nose as I expected from Lafon and Tolpuddle. Young, stylish, vibrant apple, pear, peachy fruit aromas. Pinch of sulphur. Restrained; not quite fully developed yet. Top quality but not singing. Postscript: IMHO it would have shown cleaner and better if it had been decanted and given more air to develop.

2019 TOLPUDDLE VINEYARD CHARDONNAY TASMANIA, AUSTRALIA: Also reductive but with greener fruit. More open, with grassy, floral notes and a good salty “cabbage” nose. High acidity with less ripe fruit. It stands out as a rather different Chardonnay from the others. PS: I have tasted later vintages including the outstanding 2024 that have much more balanced ripe spicy fruit to match the natural higher acidity levels and would have shown better here than the 2019.

2021 CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET PREMIER CRU “MORGEOT” JEAN-CLAUDE RAMONET FRANCE: Bright shiny appearance. Best nose of pure agrumes (ripe citrus) – precise, classy aromas – very French white Burgundy. Stylish, well balanced, complex, and delicious. Leaner and less oaky than some, but it clearly showed the best minerality phenolics in this flight.

2020 CHECKMATE ARTISANAL WINERY FOOL’S MATE CHARDONNAY OKANAGAN VALLEY, BRITISH COLUMBIA: Fresh grapefruit but with softer sweeter tropical notes. Forwardly. Rather good but with less distinct varietal character. PS: It’s a blend of 5 vineyards and 11 clones, but it’s not as complex as their Little Pawn single vineyard from Jagged Rock Vineyard.

2022 CHATEAU MONTELENA CHARDONNAY NAPA VALLEY CALIFORNIA: Quite citrus and vegetal notes; delicate and less full-bodied. Still young with a lot of finesse. It doesn’t seem textbook Burgundy styled but is almost Chablis-like (though no Chablis was in the tasting). Will develop further. PS: More restrained elegant style than the first place 1973 winner in Paris but their balance-over-power philosophy for longevity is present.

2023 BEAUNE CLOS DES MOUCHES BLANC JOSEPH DROUHIN FRANCE: Interesting inviting herbal, honey, full-bodied, ripe pineapple fruit. Open and enticing. I found it round softer textured with some heat from the higher alcohol especially on the finish. Mixed feelings. PS: Later learned it was indeed 14.5% ABV compared to the other two French whites at a lesser 13.5

The Chardonnay group results showed a clear preference for France. The Beaune Clos des Mouches Drouhin received 5 of 11 first place votes for 208.5 points followed by the Chassagne-Montrachet from Ramonet at 199.5 with 3 first place votes.

1970 CHATEAU MONTROSE AC SAINT ESTEPHE FRANCE: Darkest, deepest, and youngest-looking of the flight. It developed a fragrant bouquet with earthy sous bois forest floor, and leather characteristics. It had lots of powerful concentration with solid fruit and tannins still present. This must be Montrose from St. Estephe with that full, dry, less elegant signature. No rush. Better with food. Postscript: This Second Growth ranked third in the 1976 Paris tasting. It showed the typical depth of the first-ranked 1970 Montrose that Harry Waugh admired in Vancouver in 1982 at a 1970 horizontal suggesting it was the 1970 Latour (which came in second). It continues to hold and develop well. Good bottle here though some have TCA issues.

1971 RIDGE MONTEBELLO CABERNET SAUVIGNON CUPERTINO, CALIFORNIA: Also very dark but with less depth and a paler rim. Much more fruit is obvious here, both in the complex aromatic nose and the impressive intensity on the palate. It seemed quite a bit sweeter with herbal spices than the other wines. Was that the American oak used by Ridge, or the ripe plum concentration of Latour? Maybe too ripe, minty, and sweet for Chateau Latour 1970. Regardless this is an exciting, young wine for being 50 years old and clearly shows the best of this flight. PS: Your scribe provided this well stored bottle. Fifth in the 1976 event but even better here. Congrats to the Ridge team for this extraordinary 100% Cabernet Sauvignon at only 12.2 % ABV Estate Grown at 2300 feet on the Santa Cruz Mountains. Remarkable wine!

1974 STAG’S LEAP WINE CELLARS CABERNET SAUVIGNON STAG’S LEAP VINEYARD NAPA, CALIFORNIA: Quite a bit browner garnet look with a mature edge. It looked older, with a sweet tertiary bouquet. It was drying out, with insufficient fruit remaining on the palate. Needs drinking up. PS: See Photo: This bottle had the highest fill by far, so there are no excuses for its condition. Warren Winiarski won the 1976 Paris tasting with his 1973 wine from young vines planted in 1970. This 1974 was a better red vintage being richer and more elegant than 1973 with supple round flavours. But Stag’s Leap also used some of the best grapes from 1974 for their first reserve Cask 23. These great historic wines are past their peak and need drinking soon.

1970 CHATEAU PALMER AC MARGAUX FRANCE: Lighter red with more development. Nose not the cleanest bottle, showing some fading floral notes. Rather dry, with vegetal, oxidizing notes. Disappointing showing. PS: This Palmer 1970 usually shows much better with a distinctive, unique bouquet blending 44% Merlot, 31% CS, 9% CF, and a high 16% PV, offering fine elegance and harmony. Poor bottle. See Blog November 1, 2021 linked here for a better showing.

1970 CHATEAU LATOUR AC PAUILLAC FRANCE: Mid range colour. Less open with a deep briary black tea-like statement. There is depth and interest on the palate but some oxidation detracts overall. I’m not sure what this bottle is, but it wasn’t the best one. PS: See the photo of the full bottles; the 1970 Latour had a very low fill with lots of ullage. Not a typical bottle that might have given Ridge a closer battle. See Blog November 6, 2017 & Latour vertical April 4, 2022 both linked here. Bullish recent reviews in 2023 by Jancis Robinson 19.5/20 “no sign of fading fruit” and John Gilman 96/100 “still deserves a bit more time in the cellar just to allow it to blossom completely!” Bottle variation.

1974 MAYACAMAS VINEYARDS NAPA MOUNTAIN CABERNET SAUVIGNON NAPA, CALIFORNIA: Much younger looking deep red appearance. It showed black olives with minty geraniums as non-French aspects. It should likely be Mayacamas, given those eucalyptus notes characteristic of California. It was a bit edgy and lacked cohesion. Bottle variation again? PS: Bob Travers made some brilliant wines from 1968 to 1978 but they haven’t been quite as outstanding since. Good but better bottles exist.

The amazing Ridge Montebello 1971 received 7 of 11 first place votes and a total score of 207.5 – a dominating win! What a remarkable showing! Second at 197 was 1970 Latour and third at 193 was 1970 Montrose adding credibility to the long aging potential of Cabernet Sauvignon from Bordeaux. Bottle variation among 50+-year-old wines is inevitable and likely affected the results. Still an interesting overall exercise.

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