As you know these are challenging times for the wineries of British Columbia (winebc. com). There is way less wine produced from the short crops of 2023 (December 2022 cold snap) and 2024 (January 2024 freeze) and fewer Okanagan wine tasting events being held. Accordingly it was with enthusiasm to receive an invite and to attend a Media/Trade Holiday Preview Reception on the afternoon of USA Election Day November 5 at The Kent in Vancouver. It was very well organized by Laura Serena and Morgan Sommerville of Serena PR with Kaylyn Storey, Director of Public Relations for Mark Anthony Group and the Iconic Wineries of BC. Special kudos to owner Anthony von Mandl for his astute foresight and amazing investment in these seven iconic wineries. A brief summary of this classy event:

MISSION HILL FAMILY ESTATE This architectural wonder by Tom Kundig on Boucherie Mountain is an icon with legendary Summer Concerts with wines now using only Estate vineyards certified organic. They celebrated in 2022 for 25 years of their Oculus top red wine. Executive Chef Patrick Gayler was present preparing an excellent Italian Pumpkin & Chestnut Gnocchi (light and delicate) with Brussels Sprout & Pecorino. Designed to pair with 2022 Jagged Rock Chardonnay. What a treat.

CEDARCREEK ESTATE WINERY Pleased to see some 2023 whites with a fresh Pinot Gris Platinum from the South Kelowna Slopes. Always impressed with their Aspect (late daylight sun exposure on Upper Slopes of Home Block Vineyard planted in 1991) Block 4 Pinot Noir. Executive Chef Neil Taylor from the Home Block Restaurant showed a delicious Seared Scallop, horseradish creme fraiche, brassicas, pancetta & red wine dish that matched so perfectly with their 2022 East Kelowna Slopes Pinot Noir.

MARTIN’S LANE WINERY Big fan of what winemaker Shane Munn is accomplishing here with Riesling and Pinot Noir. 2023 Riesling Naramata Ranch Vineyards harvested on October 12 from their South facing vineyard planted in 1976 at 470m is gently handled with gravity at 12.4 abv. My fav is a silky 2022 Pinot Noir Naramata Ranch Vineyard at 49.67 latitude of Clones 667, 943, and Pommard harvested October 1-17 at elevation 410-490m East/South-East aspect at 13 abv. Appreciated my discussions with knowledgeable Ella Alfonso who most wisely decanted this young red to help open it up and show to best advantage. We also tried together the 2020 from their Artisan Wine Shop display (Joe Roubini Retail Manager) with retail outlets at Lonsdale Quay Market in North Vancouver and downtown Victoria. However this 2020 (only 667 & 943 – no Pommard) picked October 1-10 at only 12.3 abv not decanted was initially quite restrained, tight and a lot of reduction that needed more air.

CHECKMATE ARTISANAL WINERY Another outstanding winery that is spotlighting the best of Chardonnay & Merlot. Spencer Kelly has returned home to the Okanagan taking over from winemaker Philip McGahan. Enjoyed talking with worldly James Berti Guest Experience Manager in detail about the evolution of the winery and the current wines. The Fool’s Mate Chardonnays are showing more fresh vibrancy and depth of flavours and the Merlot Opening Gambit 2020 has riper forward fruit better capturing the varietal definition but a big 14.7 abv.

LIQUIDITY WINES This winery is from Okanagan Falls near McIntyre Bluff, Vaseux Lake & Skaha Lake with a distinct terroir. A wonderful dining experience by Chef Josh Mueller matching the wines. He showed us a lightly smoked Ahi Tuna with firm skinned Sieglinde potato & pink peppercorn salad with cranberry & lettuce cream with the 2023 Estate Rose of Pinot Noir. To organize these three talented chefs at this wine tasting event was truly amazing!

RED BARN AT JAGGED ROCK Newer colourful winery producing unique wines from Jagged Rock Vineyard by winemaker Kaylee Barss including the 2022 Discordian dry white blend of co-fermented 52% rich Chardonnay & 48% fresh Sauvignon Blanc and aged in concrete for vibrant styling. Helpful Guest Experience Manager Valerio Mariani assisted with insightful information.

ROAD 13 VINEYARDS Most southern winery in the Icon group and a wonderful signature of “all about the Dirt. ” Producing some high powered reds from Cab Sauv, Malbec, and Syrah plus top blend of Fifth Element. Big admirer of their old vines Chenin Blanc planted in 1968 with exciting ageable Sparkling. Check this out.

Seven very different special wineries that live up to their bullish “ICONIC” name. Impressive.

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Question: I have noticed on quite a few on my wine bottles the words “Contains Sulphites”. Would you please provide me with a simple explanation.

Answer: Yes, it is a warning for those that are allergic to sulphites. Most wines have naturally occurring sulphites in very low amounts produced during the wine making process. However, some wines during production have extra amounts added (more in sweet wines than dry reds) to help avoid particularly bacteria and oxidation issues. Sulphites are also added to dry fruits and some other products as well. Many believe that an allergic reaction is less common than generally thought. Your scribe is in favour of more ingredient labelling (over and above contains sulphites) so that consumers can know the amount of sulphites used plus colouring, sugar, and lots of other important hidden additives.

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La Commanderie de Bordeaux Vancouver held a dinner on October 26th at Five Sails Restaurant comparing top Left Bank wines from the 1995 & 1996 vintage. Chef Alex Kim had just won the Great Kitchen Party as BC rep for the upcoming Canadian Culinary Championship in Ottawa January 31 & February 1, 2025 with his three ingredient seafood terrine that included a superb scallop mousseline. Accordingly, there was an extra buzz in the dining room and excited anticipation to try his seared Hokkaido Scallop dish with two mature white Bordeaux plus the Duck & Venison courses to follow.

Initially 1995 was touted as a Merlot year (and especially favouring the Right Bank) while 1996 was a top Cabernet Sauvignon (CS) year (excellent in the upper Left Bank).

Now approaching 30 years of age these two vintages can’t be summarized quite that simply and vary considerably by Chateau. Remember that 1995 came after four disappointing years (1991-1994) with early September rains so tended to be overrated early on – sort of like 1975 (after lesser 1972-74). 1995 Merlots and Right Bank can be very good though watch out for some diluted earlier picked examples and choose those with more Cabernet Franc. Many of the Left Bank CS were harvested after the September rains resulting in riper but austere quite tannic wines that require patience.

On the other hand, the 1996 vintage can be outstanding particularly in the northern Left Bank where way less Fall rain occurred and sometimes are compared with the slow developing 1986s.

Both have good structure and are now showing encouraging development for wonderful enjoyment on the plateau of long lives in bottle.

The aperitif of DELAMOTTE BRUT CHAMPAGNE was solidly brisk and enhanced by two lovely canapes of Kisu oysters delightful with yuzu and the best arancini possible of sweet tasty Dungeness crab. The Scallops exceeded the anticipation by being so delicious with the two Pessac-Leognan whites. Two different styles of the richer, more body but simpler 2015 CARBONNIEUX (a late substitution for the 2014 La Louviere) and the leaner yet more acid balanced complex textured 2014 SMITH HAUT LAFITTE both paired well with the seafood.

A few impressions on the two flights of red Bordeaux comparing 1995 to 1996:

1995 CHÂTEAU BARON DE PICHON-LONGUEVILLE PAUILLAC There was bottle variation but best made a lush softer delicious statement for easy current drinking with 35% Merlot much more than their recent vintages. Perfect match with the flavourful duck dish.

1995 CHATEAU PONTET-CANET PAUILLAC Darker younger look. Better structure and power complexity. This successful 1995 is pure lovely silk now but no rush. Clearly best of first flight of 1995 but perhaps presently not as multi dimensional as elegant Lynch Bages & exciting Leoville Las Cases. Underrated.

1995 CHÂTEAU GRUAUD LAROSE SAINT-JULIEN During the transition period when purchased in 1997 by Jacques Merlaut (Chasse Spleen). One bottle was badly corked resulting in a smaller pour. Much lighter fruit and simpler. Enjoyable.

1996 CHÂTEAU RAUZAN-SEGLA MARGAUX More Margaux styling. Lighter rim showing age. Less body but the fragrant flowers are most attractive. A surprise glass of 1995 CHÂTEAU PALMER from a guest showed way younger with also lots of Merlot in the blend but with that signature floral complex bouquet.

1996 CHÂTEAU GRAND-PUY-LACOSTE PAUILLAC Darkest deepest colour. Textbook classic cedar Pauillac nose is very impressive! Most CS in the blend is noticeable and with excellent structure. Will age well. Wine of the night for your scribe.

1996 CHÂTEAU LEOVILLE POYFERRE SAINT-JULIEN Also very dark. Less bouquet but a big mouthful of amazing supple round flavours with depth and a contribution from Petit Verdot. More forwardly drinking. Well done for sure. A lot of group support for this wine too.

Venison is a chef fav as low in fat makes it a challenge to prepare a point but not overcook. Usually not a fav of your scribe but this one was sensationally done. I was so inspired I did get up at the event and tell the chef just that. Kudos to his whole culinary team for a great meal. Also a deep bow of respect to Global Wine Director Sarah McCauley who carefully orchestrated the outstanding wine service all at perfect temperatures. Very well done indeed. Much appreciated.

2020 CHÂTEAU COUTET BARSAC For a change served a current Sauternes vintage to assist members not only in wine education but purchasing availability. Lots of sweeter youthful passion fruit, pineapple, apricots, mango, and tangerine peel to already enjoy so fresh without changing with bottle age.

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Question: Generally how do you see the grape harvest going for the vintage wines in 2024?

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Lots of experience monitoring and posting on this Blog about those warmer twin Bordeaux wine vintages of 1989 & 1990. Just reviewed 1989 again this October 1st linked here, variable at 25 years old on February 24, 2014 here, and compared with 1990 on February 22, 2016 here. In the latter report some 8+ years ago the 1990 Leoville Barton had “that iodine noted deep fruit”, 1990 Montrose was “coming around with big fruit but more charm than I expected”, and 1990 Lafite “superb but still closed needing another 5-10 years to blossom out”. Another more recent review by your scribe of top 1990 Bordeaux was on June 22, 2020 linked here. The Vancouver Group of Eight at meeting #125 over dinner at Blue Water Cafe enjoyed and studied 9 Left Bank Bordeaux wines from 1990 in two flights including a revisit of Pichon Lalande, Leoville Barton, Montrose, Margaux, & Lafite. Some brief impressions:

The evening started with a rather unknown but most exciting Champagne of 2013 SUENEN “LE COCLUETTE” a Lieu-Dit in the village of Oiry BLANCS DE BLANC CRAMANT GRAND CRU EXTRA BRUT. Old low yield 94 year vines planted in 1925 north facing (80%) vinification & elevage for 9 months in foudre, concrete eggs & demi-muids followed by nearly 6 years in bottle before disgorged 12/06/2019 with only 2g/l dosage. Pinpoint consistent mousse with impressive youthful precision and lemon oil minerality finesse. What vibrancy and potential that uniquely emphasises the unique terroir of this site. The detailed map on the label also appropriately focuses on the specific place. Congrats.

1990 CHÂTEAU LA LOUVIÈRE PESSAC-LÉOGNAN André Lurton value property well situated between Haut Bailly & Carbonnieux is fresh herbaceous simpler ready now showing the Graves style. Drink up.

1990 CHÂTEAU DE FIEUZAL PESSAC-LÉOGNAN The lightest colour with palest rim of all but showing sweeter bright lift yet mature fruit with more interesting flavours and rounded tannins but for current enjoyment.

1990 CHÂTEAU LEOVILLE BARTON SAINT-JULIEN Darkest and deepest of first flight and a really perfect bottle. Often shows medicinal notes (plus Brett & TCA in 2020 tasting) but pure clean intense cassis with depth and firm balance. So structured and stylish with an impressive spicy long very St. Julien cabernet sauvignon (70%) statement and 50% new barrels. Coming around as smoother but still no rush. Like the 12.5 abv level. Excellent bottle.

1990 CHÂTEAU LEOVILLE POYFERRE SAINT-JULIEN Good dark red look but tad less depth and much more development. Very attractive black currants but softer seduction with less mid body than Barton. Drinking exquisitely now on a lovely plateau. Delicious tonight with ris de veau & wild mushrooms course. Enjoy.

1990 CHÂTEAU LYNCH BAGES PAUILLAC Starts off a brilliant second flight of the night. Wonderful Pauillac bouquet definition here. Been somewhat in the shadow of the deservedly acclaimed fuller structured 1989 but this 1990 bottle is close with a great showing tonight. Round silky cedar flavours impressive. Surprise of the night.

1990 CHÂTEAU PICHON LONGUEVILLE COMTESSE DE LALANDE Even talented May de Lencquesaing was self-critical of her 1990 vintage for 3 reasons as husband General died, winemaker changed, and no press wine was added. Always underappreciated because of the lighter fruit and more Merlot in the blend. However, with bottle age it has continued to improve, showing very well the terroir in a more delicate and elegant way. Nick Wright felt “they didn’t capture the vintage” but Ian Mottershead commented “sophisticated”. Less can sometimes be more – especially with the lighter moist local pheasant dish.

1990 CHÂTEAU MONTROSE SAINT-ESTÈPHE Another wine that sometimes shows bottle variation. This one is clean and pristine but still a rather big concentration with harder tannins. Lots of fruit 64%CS 32M and 4CF remains. Old style compared to easy fruit accessibility style from another iconic vintage 2009 Montrose just tasted and written up this October 14th here. Still an outstanding future ahead yet to be fully realized.

1990 CHÂTEAU MARGAUX, MARGAUX Darkest of the nine wines. Exquisite nose with so many complex components including violets. Taste has balanced structured textures with smooth opulence and subtle class. Wine of the night for me but the group vote was evenly split with Lafite. The Margaux website captures their 1990 well as “charm and great finesse”. In 2018 they commented “Today, all aromas and flavours already mingle sweetly together into this wine, whose perfect HARMONY conceals a power comparable with 1989”. Outstanding already but with a long future as well.

1990 CHÂTEAU LAFITE ROTHSCHILD, PAUILLAC Good colour but not that deep. Best wine for an open complex bouquet of coffee, chocolate, mocha, cedar, lead pencil, tobacco leaf and black currant/cassis. So velvety and elegant with 64CS & 36M blend. Too much Merlot? Perhaps the cool elegant Lafite style is not ideally best suited for the very hot years like 1989 & 1990. What about global warming? Did sensationally in 1959. Much better than 90 Mouton. Fresh and lovely top claret but not a heavyweight. To each their own.

1963 DOW’S VINTAGE PORT (Charles Kinloch English bottling) Carefully slowly decanted at 5 pm for dinner to follow resulting in an amazing clear shiny brilliant perfect glow. Not a grain of the heavy sediment appeared in the double decanted bottle. Beautifully served. Isn’t dark but has an enticing look. Dow is known for their lighter, more acidity character vintage ports – the opposite end of a Graham jammy style. Clean, fresh, and delightful so full of charming flavours – seeming less high alcoholic than 20 abv. Stilton, great with bigger younger vintage ports, is almost too strong for this rare old beauty. Simple roasted walnuts or pistachios probably would have matched even better. Lots of subtle complex pleasure is a real joy here at 60+ years!

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