By Joseph Temple

It’s hard to believe that the flourishing vineyards you see today across Suffolk and Nassau counties were once used for growing simple spuds less than fifty years ago. But in the early 1970s, a watershed moment occurred when academics at Cornell University thought the cool climate influenced by the Atlantic Ocean made Long Island the perfect spot for viticulture in lower New York State. Starting with a few visionary trailblazers who decided to put that theory into practice, the island’s wine industry has grown enormously to over 4000 vineyard acres and 56 wine producers by 2015. Benefiting from a supportive state government while being part of the largest consumer market in North America, Long Island has become more than just a picturesque getaway of palatial summer homes. With three recognized AVA’s, it is now an integral part—along with the Finger Lakes and the Hudson Valley—of New York’s growing wine business. And below are ten facts to get you up to speed on the wines from Long Island.

http://www.cgpgrey.com [CC BY 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons

1. Long Island’s first vineyard was started by Alex and Louisa Hargrave in 1973 when they purchased over sixty acres of land in Cutchogue, New York.  Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc were the first grapes to be planted.
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2. The vast majority of Long Island’s vineyards are located on the North Fork of Suffolk County – a thirty-mile peninsula on the island’s east end.
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http://www.cgpgrey.com [CC BY 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons

3. On the North Fork, the waters have a moderating effect, cooling the hot summer temperatures while curbing the cold winters of the American northeast.
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http://www.cgpgrey.com [CC BY 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons

4. The ripening period on the North Fork is two to three weeks longer than it is in the Hamptons, which can get spring frosts as late as May and where the prevailing winds are cooler.
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By Dianne Patrizzi [CC BY 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons

5. Because approximately 2/3rds of New York wines come from the Finger Lakes, the state is often thought of as a white wine region.  However, Long Island is known largely for its red varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot – which can be full of spice, black cherry and blueberry aromas.
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6. Due to island’s maritime microclimate and the red wine grapes it’s most known for, local vintners see many similarities between Long Island and Bordeaux.
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7. With its close proximity to Manhattan, Long Island can be one of the most expensive places to own a winery in North America.
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By Mark Jenney (Own work) [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Wikimedia Commons

8. A sizable chunk of Long Island wine sales come from tourists visiting the North and South Forks during the summer season.
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http://www.cgpgrey.com [CC BY 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons

9. A big threat to Long Island’s wine industry comes from birds. Being on a migratory route for numerous species, they can destroy a vineyard in a matter of days, requiring winemakers to net their vines.
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10. Another threat comes from storms and hurricanes that have caused severe damage throughout the American northeast.

The International Wine & Food Society is proud to have a strong presence across the state of New York with branches in New York City, Long Island and Buffalo. Please click on any of the links to visit their respective websites.

Sources:

Cattell, Hudson. Wines of Eastern North America: From Prohibition to the Present—A History. Ithaca: Cornell University Press, 2013.
Clarke, Oz & Spurrier, Steven. Clarke and Spurrier’s Fine Wine Guide. Boston: Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2001.
Harding, Julia. The Oxford Companion to Wine. Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2015.
McCarthy, Ed & Ewing-Mulligan, Mary. Wine For Dummies. West Sussex: Wiley, 2011.
Pinney, Thomas. A History of Wine in America: From Prohibition to the Present, Volume 2. Berkeley: University of California Press, 2005.
Long Island Wine Region Statistics. The Long Island Wine Council. LIWine.com. Retrieved from http://www.liwine.com.

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Question: What white wine variety in the Northern Rhone style do you prefer?

Answer: Traditionally the viognier grape has been the star in Condrieu showing highly perfumed peach and apricot styling & the even smaller appellation of Chateau Grillet delivering more chardonnay-like fruit but really a unique terroir. It is growing well for Chapoutier in Domaine des Granges de Mirabel in the southern Ardeche and in some regions of the New World. I like the marsanne variety showing rich oily deep textures from old Victorian vines planted by Tahbilk in Australia and the more delicate Road 13 Vineyards one grown in Cawston BC. Rousanne is another variety successful in California with more acidity and aromatics that often is even better when blended with marsanne and viognier. Okanagan Valley is having wonderful success with this 3 grape aromatic blend led by among others Ava of Le Vieux Pin Winery & Afraid of the Dark by Moon Curser Vineyards.

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Photo credit: www.roumier.com

The Domaine of Georges Roumier in Chambolle-Musigny masterly run by Christophe Roumier is one of Burgundies true treasures. Their cherished parcels include structured magnificent consistent Bonnes-Mares, outstanding but more variable Musigny, fragrant complex Les Amoureuses, and unique Clos de la Bussiere (monopole) among others. The high price of these wines clearly indicate not only their amazing quality but the world demand for them. However if you drop down to the level of Chambolle-Musigny village AC there are still some wonderful values to be found from this top Domaine – particularly from the best years. This point was brought forcefully home to me again last week when I enjoyed 7 of them all showing their terroir and the vintage distinct differences. Some of my short observations:

2004 Chambolle-Musigny G. Roumier: Lean more difficult year shows with robust greener weedy earthy herbal notes in a simpler style.

2002 Chambolle-Musigny G. Roumier: Stylish, classy, vibrant, still hard though some elegance underneath, deep fruit is very promising but needs at least another 5 years to open up and sing.

2000 Chambolle-Musigny G.Roumier: Fantastic fragrant bouquet a beautiful surprise for current drinking even though lighter, forwardly and with less weight it shows well the delicacy of the commune.

1999 Chambolle-Musigny G. Roumier: Outstanding black fruits combining power with finesse but no rush as just reaching a plateau of long enjoyment. Structure & depth. The older vines with lower yields around 40hl/ha are usual for this AC wine and impress. Would think this is a premier cru Chambolle for sure!

1998 Chambolle-Musigny G.Roumier: Open & quite rich but a bit eccentric because of the vintage though drinking well now with some tannins left.

1997: Chambolle-Musigny G.Roumier: Though from a smaller crop it is simpler, herbal, and rustic similar to 2004 but with even less harmony & drier so needs drinking up presently.

1985 Chambolle-Musigny G. Roumier: Fortunate to have tried this wine frequently over the years and it never disappoints even now at 30 years old. The joy of maturity from ripe delicious charming balanced fruit is awesome. Shows the ethereal magic of the Chambolle fragrance and the elegant complexity of best Burgundy! Looking forward to the 2002 & 1999 with a few more years of bottle age. Who says you must buy 1er cru or Grand cru to have this earth moving experience?

Encourage you to look out for the tremendous value of G. Roumier Chambolle-Musigny AC & even their Bourgogne Rouge from top vintages like 2009 & 2010 or their more recent currently available releases. Enjoy.

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By Joseph Temple

With the temperature dropping and winter looming, are you looking for something tasty to keep you warm?  If so, you might want to have a look at some delightful dishes from our friends in Ukraine.  While many of us associate this Eastern European country with cabbage rolls and perogies, there is so much more to this nation’s proud culinary history.  So, have some bread with salt (representing hospitality and friendship) and try cooking some of these Ukrainian dishes that are richly steeped in tradition and culture.

Smachnoho!

1. Borscht

No list of Ukrainian foods is complete without mentioning Borscht – a staple of every traditional kitchen.  Originally made from cow parsnip, this soup is extremely popular across Eastern Europe, made mostly of beets and rich meat stock.  However, during Christmas, it is served meatless with rye bread.

2. Deruny

Deruny are pancakes made of grated potatoes and onions.  Fried in oil until they’re golden brown, sour cream or apple sauce is usually served with this comforting dish.  The Ukrainian version is often thinner than what most Westerners are used to, but still quite filling and delicious.

Evilmonkey0013 at English Wikipedia [CC BY 3.0], via Wikimedia Commons

3. Pyrizhky

Sold in train stations and public squares across Ukraine, buns like pyrizhky are stuffed with meat, cabbage or potatoes and either baked or fried before serving.  Like other Ukrainian dishes, sour cream and dill is usually added to this delicious street food.

By Mariuszjbie (Own work) [CC BY-SA 3.0 or GFDL], via Wikimedia Commons

4. Mizeria

A simple salad consisting of cucumbers in a sour cream dill dressing, mizeria was first invented in Poland where cucumbers were introduced by Queen Bona Sforza.  Its literal translation is misery.  This peasant dish may have been named to reflect the hard times associated with the poverty of the depressed region.

Kagor at the Ukrainian language Wikipedia [GFDL or CC-BY-SA-3.0], via Wikimedia Commons

5. Nalysnyky

A thin crepe filled with meat, mushrooms or sauerkraut, many Ukrainians favor putting sweetened cottage cheese in their nalysnyky.  They also can be made into a thin, multi-layered cake using a savory filling or a simple sweet jam like plum butter for a special treat.

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6. Foraged Mushrooms

In Ukraine, mushroom picking is a national pastime with the country’s vast forests providing an excellent selection for those who love to forage.  Once dried (historically to last the winter), these mushrooms are used in countless dishes such as rich gravies, mouth-watering soups or in tiny perogies called yshka which are served with clear borscht on Christmas Eve.

By Candrichuk (Own work) [CC BY-SA 3.0], via Wikimedia Commons

7. Kasha

With potatoes and bread being a bedrock for the nation’s collective diet, it should come as no surprise that Ukrainians have been harvesting wheat from the same land for nearly 7,000 years.  Used in a variety of dishes, a popular grain known as Kasha (or buckwheat) has a number of different applications.  Whether as a meal topped with fried bacon, onions or gravy, it can also be used in cabbage rolls and in liver sausage called a kyshka.

By MOs810 (Own work) [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Wikimedia Commons

8. Pickled Herring

Often served with sour cream, sliced onions and rye bread, pickled herring works as an appetizer or as part of a salad mixed with potatoes, beets, pickles or chopped apples.  Also, since most Ukrainians strictly observe religious traditions, pickled herring is served on Christmas Eve as one of twelve meatless dishes that symbolize each Apostle.

By Silar (Own work) [CC BY-SA 3.0], via Wikimedia Commons

9. Babka

Baked in tall tins, Babka is a dessert of rich yeast bread and lots of eggs.  During Easter, it is often crowned with many decorations such as little dough rosettes, designs of wheat stalks or a symbolic cross.  Sometimes, for a special sweet treat, Babka is flavored with raisins, dried fruit such as citron peel, chocolate or cinnamon and drizzled with fondant.  Don’t tell Baba, but you can even add some colored sprinkles for the kids.

By Yair rand (Own work) [CC BY-SA 3.0], via Wikimedia Commons

10. Rugelach

Sources:

Dalton, Meredith. Culture Shock!: Ukraine. Portland: Graphic Arts Center Publishing, 2000.
Hardaway, Ashley. Ukraine (Other Places Travel Guide). Other Places Publishing, 2011.
Kopka, Deborah. Welcome to Ukraine: Passport to Eastern Europe & Russia. Dayton: Milliken Publishing Company, 2011.
Kraig, Bruce & Sen, Colleen Taylor. Street Food Around the World: An Encyclopedia of Food and Culture. Santa Barbara: ABC-CLIO, 2013.
Nichol, Christina. Essential Spices and Herbs: Discover Them, Understand Them, Enjoy Them. Berkeley: Callisto Media Inc., 2015.
Stechishin, Savella. Traditional Ukrainian Cookery. Winnipeg: Trident Press, 1973.

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Question: How can rot ever be noble?

Answer: Good point! Rot in grapes is generally not noble but a bad thing resulting in decomposition of unhealthy grapes. Grey rot is often still an issue and we remember well the widespread sour rot problems in the Okanagan especially during the 2013 & 2004 vintages. However, healthy ripe grapes in hot misty conditions may be attacked by the fungus botrytis cinerea (particularly in Sauternes, Tokaj, Germany and other unique regions) miraculously turning the individual berries into raisins and concentrating their juice – a noble rot indeed!

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